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PICTORIAL    VIEW 


OF 


CALIFOKNIA ; 


INCLUDING     A 


EffllPTlBF  TBI  Pill  ill  liMMira. 


WITH 


INFftRMATION  AND  ADVICE 


INTERESTING  TO  ALL,  PARTICULARLY 


THOSE  WHO  INTEND  TO  VISIT  THE  GOLDEN  REGION. 


BY  A  RETURNED  CALIFORNIAN.   /^X^ 

§oi5  or)ly  by  §i{53clrij)fIor). 
NEW-YORK: 

PUBLISHED     BY     HENRY     BILL. 

1853. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1852, 

BY    J.    M.    LETTS, 

In"  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  New  York. 


TO 


Mm  leita  1,  ITdts, 


OF 


/"T/i^ 


^6/<^  SziiK/n{  G^ita^eTz/  Q/dcanc/^ 


THIS    JOURNAL 


illost  Hespectfullg  Debuateb, 


BY 


THE  AUTHOR. 


Mutt  tn  tljj  iRtakt 

I  HA  YE,  in  these  pages,  endeavored  to  convey  a  correct  im- 
pression, I  have  stated  sucli  facts  ouIt/  as  I  knew  to  be  facts, 
and  interspersed  them  witli  incidents  that  fell  under  mj  own 
observation.  A  season's  residence  in  the  mineral  regions  enabled 
me  to  obtain  a  correct  interior  view  of  life  in  California.  The 
illustrations  are  truthful,  and  can  be  relied  upon  as  faithfully 
portraying  the  scenes  they  are  designed  to  represent.  They 
were  drawn  upon  the  spot,  and  in  order  to  preserve  character- 
istics, even  the  attitudes  of  the  individuals  represented  are  truth- 
fully given.  The  first  part  of  this  volume  is  written  in  a  con- 
cise manner,  with  a  view  to  brevity,  as  the  reader  is  presumed 
to  be  anxious  to  make  the  shortest  possible  passage  to  the 

Eldorada. 

THE  AUTHOE. 


€nuit 


Page 
CHAPTER  FIRST.— Sail  from  New  York— Our  Pilot  leaves  us— Land  recedes  from  View— Sea- 
Sickness — A  Whale — Enter  the  Gulf  Stream — Encounter  a  Gale— Enter  the  Tropic  of  Cancer 
— "  Land,  ho  !" — Caycos  and  Turk's  Islands — St.  Domingo — Cuba — Enter  the  Caribbean  Sea — 
Sporting — Sunday — Standing  in  for  the  Port  of  Chagres — Beautiful  Scene — Drop  Anchor,  9 

CHAPTER  SECOND.— Natives  and  "  Bungoes"— Crescent  City  arrives— We  sail  into  the 
mouth  of  the  River — Prepare  for  a  Fight — Fashions  and  Fortifications — An  honest  Alcalde — 
Non-fulfillment  of  Contracts, 13 

CHAPTER  THIRD.— First  Attempt  at  Boat  building— Excitement  on  "  'Change"— A  Launch 
and  Clearance — The  Crew — A  Mutiny — Quelled — Poor  Accommodations — A  Night  in  Anger — 
An  Anthem  to  the  Sun — Nature  in  Full  Dress, 


16 

CHAPTERFOURTH.— Breakfast-Primitive  Mode  of  Life— Meet  the  Orus— Mutiny  and  Rain— 
A  Step  backward — Encampment — A  fortified  and  frightened  Individual— Sporting — ^Mosquitos,    20 

CHAPTER  FIFTH.— First  Rapid— An  Unfortunate  Individual— A  Step  Backward— Several 
Individuals  in  a  State  of  Excitement — Tin  Pans  not  exactly  the  thing — A  Breakfast  Extin- 
guished— Sporting — Monkey  Amusements — A  Flash  in  the  Pan — Two  Feet  in  our  Provision 
Basket — Poverty  of  the  Inhabitants  and  their  Dogs — Arrival  at  Gorgona,  ...         .28 

CHAPTER  SIXTH.— Customs  and  Dress  of  the  Nobility— A  Suspicious  Individual— Journey  to 
Panama — A  Night  Procession — A  wealthy  Lady  in  "  Bloomer" — An  Agreeable  Night  Surprise 
— "  Hush"  on  Horseback-^Captain  Tyler  shot — A  Mountain  Pass  at  Night — Thunder  Storm  in 
the  Tropics, 27 

CHAPTER  SEVENTH.— Panama— Cathedral  and  Convents— Religious  Ceremonies— Amal- 
gamation— Fandango, 33 

CHAPTER  EIGHTH.— Bay  of  Panama— Islands— Soldiers— Arrival  of  $1,000,000  in  Gold  and 
Silver — A  Condncta — "  Bungoes"  "  up"  for  California — Wall  Street  Represented — Sail  for 
San  Francisco — Chimborazo — Cross  the  Equator — A  Calm — A  Death  at  Sea,  .        .        .37 

CHAPTER  NINTH.— Stand  in  for  San  Francisco— Indications  of  Land— The  Coast— Enter 
the  "  Golden  Gate" — Inner  Bay — San  Francisco — Lumps  of  Gold — ^Notes  of  Enterprise — Sur- 
rounding Scene — Gambling, 44 

CHAPTER  TENTH.— The  "  Hounds"— Villainy— Indignation  Meeting— Vigilance  Committee,    51 

CHAPTER  ELEVENTH.— Start  for  the  Mineral  Regions— Banks  of  the  Sacramento  River- 
Shot  at— Gold  versus  Mica— Sutterville — Primitive  Mode  of  Life— Sacramento  City — An  In- 
dividual who  had  "seen  the  Elephant,"      .        .        .        .         .        .        .        .        .        .        .56 


CHAPTER  TWELFTH —Sutter's  Fort— A  Herd  of  Cattle— "  Lassoing'— Rio  de  los  Ameri- 
canos— A  Disappointed  Hunter — A  Californian  Serenade — A  Mule  and  his  Rider — Parting 
Company — Thirst — Serenades  supported  by  Direct  Taxation — Sierra  Nevada,       ...        63 

CHAPTERTHIRTEENTH.— Venison-First  View  of  the  Gold  Regions— Surrounding  Scenery 
— "Mormon  Bar" — A  Pocket — My  Machine  in  Motion — Certainty  of  Success— First  Dinner — 
"Prospecting" — A  Good  "Lead" — Disappointed  Miners — A  New  Companion — A  Higher 
Point  on  the  River — Volcanoes— Snowy  Mountain — Auburn — Lonely  Encampment,       .        .    70 

CHAPTER  FOURTEENTH.— A  Sea  Captain  as  Cook— A  Herd  of  Deer— Return  to  Mormon 
Bar — Keeping  House — Our  Machine  in  Motion — $1,500  in  One  Hour — An  Elopement — Wash 
Day— Sporting— Prospecting—Discovery  of  Gold— Excitement— Fatigue— The  Cakes  "  hur- 
ried up" — Incentives  to  Exertion — Canalling  a  Bar, 60 

CHAPTER  FIFTEENTH.— Start  for  Sacramento  City— The  "Niagara  Co."— Frederick 
Jerome — A  Love  Chase — Heroine  under  a  Blanket — Suspicious  Boots — Part  of  a  La'dy's  Hat 
found — A  Ball — Arrival  at  Sacramento  City— Poor  Accommodations — Return  to  the  Interior — 
A  Chase— A  New  York  Merchant— Beals'  Bar— Embark  in  Trade— A  Mountaineer— Indian 
Characteristics, « i       ,       ,  87 


VI  CONTEXTS. 

Pago 
CHAPTER  SIXTEENTH.— The  Mormons— The  attempted  Murder  of  Got.  Boggs- Canalling 
Mormon  Bar — False  Theories  ia  reference  to  Gold  Deposits — Influence  of  Amasa  Lyman.  '•  the 
Prophet"' — Exciting  Scene — Jim  returns — A  Monte  Bank  ''Tapped'- — Jim's  Advent  at  Sacra- 
mento City, ....     95 

CHAPTER  SEVEXTEEXTH— False  Reports  and  their  Influences— Daily  Average— Abun- 
dance of  Gold — Original  Deposit — "  Coyotaing" — Sailors — Their  Success  and  Noble  Character- 
istics— Theatrical  Tendencies — Jack  in  the  Alter-Piece — Miners  on  a  ''Spree" — The  "Wrong 
Tent, 101 

CHAPTER  EIGHTEENTH.— Arrivals— Preparation  for  the  Rainy  Season— New  Discoveries 
— Coloma — Gamblers  versus  Bayonets — •'  Hanglown"' — Public  Executions — Fashionable  En- 
tertainments— Wild  Cattle — Dangerous  Sporting — Murdered  Indians — The  Wrongs  they 
suffer,  ■  .         •  107 

CHAPTER  NINETEENTH.— Canalling  operations— Unsuccessful  Experiments— Coffee- 
Mills  and  Gold  "Washers — Formation  of  Bars — Gold  removed  from  the  Mountains  during  the 
Rainy  Season — Snow  on  the  Mountains,  and  its  Dissolution — Rise  and  Fall  of  the  River — 
Stock  Speculations — Quicksilver  Machines — Separation  of  Gold  and  Quicksilver — Individual 
Enterprise — Incentives  to  Exertion — Expenses, 113 

CHAPTER  TWENTIETH.— Commotion  in  the  Political  Elements— California  a  State— Sla- 
very Prohibited — Political  Campaign,  and  the  Rainy  Season — Speech  of  a  Would-be-Governor 
— Enthusiasm  and  Brandy — Election  Districts — Ballot-Boxes  and  Umbrellas — Miners  in  a 
Transition  State — Preparations  for  the  Rainy  Season — Primitive  Habitations — Trade  Improv- 
ing— Advent  of  the  Rainy  Season — Its  Terrific  Effects — Rapid  Rise  of  the  River — Machines 
destroyed — Arrival^: — My  Store  and  Bed — A  Business  Suit — Distressing  Groans — The  Bottle  a 
Consolation — Several  Strange  Specimens  of  Humanity  cooking  Breakfast — The  Scurvy — A 
Death, 113 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-FIRST.— Dangerous  Navigation— A  Trip  over  the  Falls— A  Night 
from  Home — Sailor  Hospitality — Scarcity  of  Provisions — A  Hazardous  Alternative — A  Way- 
ward Boy — Preparations  for  leaving  the  Interior — Distribution  cf  Effects — Our  Traveling  Suit 
— Start  for  San  Francisco — Farewell — Three  Individuals  under  a  Full  Head  of  Steam — Arri- 
val at  the  •'  Half- Way  Tent'" — Poor  Accommodations — A  Morning  Walk  and  Poor  Breakfast — 
Wading  Lagoons — Wild  Geese — Arrival  at  the  American  River — Our  Toilet,  and  entry  into 
Sacramento  City,  ..." 1'23 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-SECOND —A  Dry  Suit— Restaurants— Waiters  and  Champagne- 
Two  Individuals  "  Tight" — A  $10  Dinner — ^Monte  Banks  and  Mnd — Gambling  and  its  Re- 
salts — Growth  of  Sacramento  City — Unparalleled  Prosperity — ^A  Revulsion  and  its  Cause — 
The  Flood, 130 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-THIRD.— Sail  for  San  Francisco— A  Fleet— Mud— Prosperity— Ships 
and  Storehouses — Buoyant  Seas — Shoals  in  Business — Revulsion  and  Fire — Their  Conse- 
quences—Sail for  Santa  Barbara— The  Town — Dexterous  Feat  by  a  Grizzly  Bear — Fashions — 
Sail  for  St.  Lucas — Porpoises  and  Sea  Fowls— Their  Sports  — Approach  the  town — Peculiar 
Sky— Caverns  in  the  Sea— Cactus— Beautiful  Sea  Shells— Sail  for  Acapulco — Magnificent 
Scenery — Yolcanos  and  Cascades — Yolcanos  at  Night — Eternal  Snow,     .....  134 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-FOURTH.— Acapulco— The  Tree  of  Love— Bathing  and  Females— A 
Californian  in  a  Tight  Place— Earthquakes— Sail  for  Realejo— Volcano  "Yiejo— Its  Devastating 
Eruption — Realejo  and  Harbor — A  Cart  and  its  Passengers — A  Wall-street  Financier  fleeced — 
Chinandega — lis  beautiful  Arbors — Bathing — Preparing  Tortillos — Leon — Its  magnificence 
and  desolation — Don  Pedro  Yaca  and  Family, 142 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-FIFTH.— A  Problem  in  Mathematics  worked  out  with  a  Cane— Pueblo 
Nueva — Cultivating  the  Acquaintance  of  a  Horse — Looking  for  the  Rider — An  "Old  Salt" 
stuck  in  the  Mud — Uncomfortable  Night's  Rest — Nagarotes — Lake  Leon  and  the  surrounding 
Yolcanos — Matares — Delightful  Country — Managua — Don  Jose  Maria  Rivas — Nindaree — 
Ruins  of  a  Yolcano — A  Long  Individual  in  Spurs — A  Dilemma — One  of  my  Horse's  Legs  in 
motion— A  Boy  in  a  Musical  Mood — Entry  into  Massaya — Bloomerism,  ....  131 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-SIXTH.— Massaya— The  Carnival— Female  Labors— Gourds— Maid- 
ens consigned  to  a  Yolcano — A  Donkey  "  non  est" — Ox  rer^i/s  Donkey — ?ame  Medicine  pre- 
scribed—  Lake  Nicaragua — Grenada — A  "Priest"  in  a  Convent — "Our"'  Horse — A  Group  of 
Islands — Cross  the  Lake — Mr.  Derbyshire's  Plantation — Breakfast — Bullocks  stepping  on 
Board — Sail  for  San  Carlos — Magnificent  Scene — A  Hymn  of  Thanks — A  Mountain  City — 
Gold  Mines — Arrival  at  San  Carlos — Custom  House  Regulations  repudiated.  .        .        .  157 

CHAPTER  TVYENTY-SEYENTH.— Passage  down  the  San  Juan  River— Castilian  Rapids— 
The  '-Director'" — Arrival  at  San  Juan — Boarded  by  a  Posse  of  Negroes — British  Protectorate — 
Philanthropy  of  Great  Britain— Her  Magnanimous  and  Disinterested  Conduct  towards  the 
Nations  of  the  Earth — Nicaragua  graciously  remembered— A  Hunt  for  a  Sovereign— A  FuU- 
Grown  King  Discovered — His  Diplomacy — Invincibility— Amusements  and  Coronation — His 
First  PMir  of  Pantaloons— Hail  '"  King  of  the  Mosquito  Coast'' !  ! !- All  hail,  Jamaca  I. .' ! ! — 
"  Hear  1  hear  ! ! !" 163 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-EIGHTH— Sail  for  Home— Pass  the  "  Golden  Gate"— Sad  Condition 
of  the  Passengers — Graves  at  the  Base  of  the  Snowy  Mountains — Land  Recedes— Luxuries  on 


CONTENTS.  Vll 

Pag© 

Board — A  Death  and  Burial — ^Another  Death — Whales  and  Porpoises  versus  Serpents  of  Fire — 
Thunder  Storm — Death  of  Dr.  Reed — Three  Dead  Bodies  found  on  Board— The  Scurvy— Fiye 
of  the  Passengers  Insane — Evils  of  the  Credit  System — A  Cultivated  Mind  deranged — Memory 
lost — Its  Cause--The  Victim  upon  the  Verge  of  Death— Harpooning  Porpoises— Exciting  Sport,  169 

CHAPTER  TWENTY-NINTH.— Cloud  and  Clipperton  Islands— Whales,  Sharks,  Porpoises, 
and  Dolphins — A  Shark  captured — Shark  Steak — *•'  Caudle  Lecture" — Death  of  Samuel  B. 
Lewis — A  Calm — Foot  Races  by  the  Ship's  Furniture — Passenger  Peculiarities — Short  of  Pro- 
visions—'' 'Bout  Ship" — First  of  January — Its  Luxuries  at  Sea— A  Tame  Sea  Fowl— A  Pas- 
senger Dying— A  Shark— A  delightful  Evening  Scene— A  Death — Burial  at  Sea  by  Candle 
Light — A  Turrle  navigating  the  Ocean — His  suspicious  conduct — A  written  Protest  against  the 
Captain— Cocus  Island— Capturing  "  Boobies," 175 

CHAPTER  THIRTIETH.— Intense  Heat— Human  Nature  as  exhibited  by  the  Passengers- 
Danger,  not  apprehended — A  Tattler — A  "Dutch  Justice" — '"  Long  Tom  Coffin" — A  Quaker 
Hat — ^An  Individual  running  Wild — His  Oaths,  Depredations,  Musical  Accomplishments, 
Showman  Propensities,  and  Pugilistic  Developments — ''Blubber,"  Buckskin,  and  "  The  Last 
Run  of  Shad" — A  capsized  Whale  Boat— Thrilling  Sensation — Harpoon  used — A  Shark — 
"Land  ho  !" — Gulf  of  Panama — South  American  Coast — ''Sail  ho!" — Dolphin  for  Dinner— 
A  Whale — A  Terrific  Gale — Our  Sails  and  Spars  carried  away, 180 

CHAPTER  THIRTY-FIRST.— Bay  of  Panama— Its  Beauties— Tropical  Fruits— The  City 
in  sight — Excitement  on  Board — Appearance  of  the  City — Her  Ruins — Preparations  to  Drop 
Anchor — ''  Stand  by!" — "Let  go  the  Anchor  I" — Farewell  to  the  Sick — A  Perilous  Ride  on  the 
Back  of  an  Individual — On  Shore — First  Dinner — ^Nothing  left — An  Individual  feeling  com- 
fortable— Panama  Americanized— A  Moonlight  Scene  viewed  from  a  Brass  '•  Fifty-Six" — A 
Dilapidated  Convent  as  seen  at  Night — Church  Bells — Burning  the  Dead — Exposure  of  the 
Desecrated  Remains — Sickening  and  Disgusting  Sight — Infants  cast  into  Pits — The  Rescue 
of  their  Souls  requiring  a  Gigantic  Eifort  on  the  part  of  the  Church — A  Catacomb — "Eternal 
Light" — Ignorance  of  the  Mass — Peerless  Characteristics, 184 

CHAPTER  THIRTY-SECOND.— A  Nun— Fandango— Marriage  Engagement  broken— Start 
for  Gorgona — Our  Extreme  Modesty — Sagacity  of  the  Mule — Sleep  on  my  Trunk — A  Dream — 
An  Alligator  with  a  Moustache — Infernal  Regions — Demons— An  Individual  with  Long  Ears, 
and  a  Mule  in  Boots — Falling  out  of  Bed — Funeral  Procession — Gorgona — Start  for  Chagres — 
Our  Bungo  Full — Spontaneous  Combustion,  almost — "  Poco  Tiempo" — Lizards  for  Dinner— 
The  Hostess — Gatun — Music  of  the  Ocean — Arrival, 190 

CHAPTER  THIRTY-THIRD.— Chagres,  its  Growth— Getting  on  board  the  Empire  City- 
Magnificent  Steamer — Gold  Dust  on  board — Steamers  Alabama,  Falcon,  Cherokee,  and  Sev- 
ern— My  friend  Clark  arrives  on  board— Preparations  for  Starting — Our  Steamer  makes  her 
First  Leap — "Adios" — Caribbean  Sea — Heavy  Sea  on — Jamaica — Port  Royal — Kingston — 
"Steady  I" — Beautiful  Scene — Orange  Groves — People  flocking  to  the  Shore — Drop  Anchor — 
The  Town — General  Santa  Anna's  Residence — "  Coaling  up" — Parrot  Pedler  in  a  Dilemma,     196 

CHAPTER  THIRTY-FOLTITH.— Our  Wheels  revolve— The  Natives  of  the  Island  Extinct— 
The  Wrongs  they  have  suffered — The  Island  once  a  Paradise — San  Domingo,  her  Mountains- 
Cuba— A  Shower  Bath  Gratis — "  Sail  ho  1" — Caycos  Island  and  Passage — Turtle  for  Dinner— 
A  Sermon — Gallant  Conduct  of  our  Steamer — We  ship  a  Sea — A  Spanish  Vessel  in  Distress — 
Our  Tiller  Chains  give  way — A  Knife  and  Fork  in  search  of  Mince  Pies — Gulf  Stream — Wa- 
ter-Spouts— •*•  Light  Ship"~Sandy  Hook — Anxiety — Sight  of  New  York — Feelings  and  Condi- 
tion of  the  Passengers — A  Sad  Fate — Aground — A  new  Pilot — Again  under  weigh — Near  the 
Dock— Death — Man  Overboard— Make  Fast — At  Home — One  Word  to  those  about  to  embark,  201 


Constitution  of  the  State  of  CaliiOrnia, 207 


CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED, 


INCLUDING  A  DESCKIPTION  OF  THE 


PANAMA    AND    NICARAGUA  ROUTES 


Clja|itn  fixBt, 


SAIL  FEOM  NEW  YORK— OUB  PILOT  LEAVES  US — LAND  RECEDES  FROM  YIEW — SEA- 
SICKNESS—A WHALE— ENTER  THE  GULF  STREAM— ENCOUNTER  A  GALE— ENTER  THE 
TROPIC  OF  CANCER— "land,  HO  !" — CAYCOS  AND  TURK'S  ISLANDS— ST.  DOMINGO— CUBA 
—ENTER  THE  CARIBBEAN  SEA— SPORTING — SUNDAY— STANDING  IN  FOB  THE  PORT  OF 
CHAGRES — BEAUTIFUL  SCENE — DROP  ANCHOR. 

Dear  reader  : — If  you  have  visited  California,  you  will  find 
nothing  in  these  pages  to  interest  you ;  if  you  have  not,  they 
may  serve  to  kill  an  idle  hour.  On  the  27th  of  January,  1849, 
having  previously  engaged  passage,  I  had  my  baggage  taken  on 
board  the  bark  "Marietta,"  lying  at  Pier  No.  4,  East  Eiver, 
preparatory  to  sailing  for  Chagres,  en  route  to  California.  It 
was  9,  A.M.  A  large  concourse  of  friends  and  spectators  had 
collected  on  the  pier  to  witness  our  departure,  and  after  two 
hours  of  confusion  and  excitement,  we  let  go  our  hawser — and, 
as  we  swung  around  into  the  stream,  received  the  last  adieus  of 
our  friends  on  shore.  We  were  taken  in  tow  by  a  steam- tug, 
and  were  soon  under  way,  our  bowsprit  pointing  seaward.  "We 
occupied  our  time,  while  running  down  the  bay,  in  writing 
notes  to  our  friends,  our  pilot  having  kindly  volunteered  to 
deliver  them.  We  passed  Forts  Hamilton  and  Diamond  at  1, 
P.M.,  and  at  three  had  made  Sandy  Hook.  Our  pilot's  boat,  which 
had  been  laying  off,  came  along  side  to  receive  him ;  we  gave  ■ 
our  last  thoughts  into  his  charge,  and  bade  him  adieu. 


10  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

We  liad  now  passed  Sandy  Hook,  and  putting  onr  helm  down, 
we  stood  away  to  the  South.  The  wind  being  light,  we  bent 
on  studding  sails,  and  were  soon  making  our  course  at  the  rate 
of  five  knots.  The  excitement  had  now  subsided ;  and,  as  the 
hills  were  fast  receding,  we  were  most  painfully  admonished 
that  we  were  leaving  home  and  friends.  We  soon  sunk  the 
highest  points  of  land  below  the  horizon,  and  felt  that  we  were 
faii'ly  launched  upon  the  ocean,  and  that  we  were  traveling  to  a 
scene  of  adventure,  the  result  of  which  no  one  could  divine.  - 
"We  felt  that  sinking  of  spirit  one  only  feels  on  such  occasions ; 
and,  at  this  particular  time,  clouds  as  dark  as  night  hung  in  the 
horizon  of  the  future.  Xight  came  on,  and  with  it  a  stiff  breeze, 
creating  a  heavy  sea.  This  caused  most  of  the  passengers  to 
forget  their  friends,  and  bestow  their  undivided  care  upon  them- 
selves. 

For  some  cause,  at  this  particular  juncture,  the  passengers 
were 'affected  with  peculiar  sensations,  mostly  in  the  region  of 
the  stomach.  They  did  not  think  it  was  sea-sickness.  What- 
ever the  cause  may  have  been,  the  effect  was  most  distressing. 
It  assumed  an  epidemic  form.  The  symptoms  were  a  sickening 
sensation  and  nausea  at  the  stomach ;  the  effect,  distressing 
groans  and  copious  discharges  at  the  mouth.  The  captain  felt 
no  alarm ;  said  he  had  had  similar  cases  before  on  board  his 
ship.  The  night  was  spent  in  the  most  uncomfortable  manner 
imaginable.  Many  of  the  passengers,  too  sick  to  reach  their 
berths,  were  lying  about  on  deck,  and  at  every  surge  would 
change  sides  of  the  vessel.  All  being  actuated  by  the  same  im- 
pulse, performed  the  same  evolutions. 

With  the  dawn  of  the  28th,  the  wind  lulled,  and  our  canvas 
was  again  spread  to  a  three  knot  breeze.  At  noon  we  took  our 
first  observation,  and  at  evening  passed  a  ship,  although  not 
within  speaking  distance.  The  dawn  of  the  29th  is  accompa- 
nied by  a  seven-knot  breeze,  and  we  stand  away  on  our  course 
with  all  sail  set.  At  3  p.m.,  we  were  saluted  by  a  whale,  and  at 
4  entered  the  Gulf  Stream.  We  here  first  observe  luminous  sub- 
stances in  the  water,  which  at  night  appear  like  an  ocean  of  fire. 
During  the  night  it  blew  a  gale,  and  we  ran  under  double-reefed 
topsails,  with  mainsail  furled.  30th.  Leave  the  Gulf  Stream,  the 
wind  blowing  a  terrific  gale.     We  are  tossed  about  on  moun- 


ENTER  THE   TROPIC   OF   CANCER.  11 

tainous  waves,  and  all  sick.  31st.  All  sail  set,  and  running  six 
knots  ;  dolphins  and  porpoises  playing  about  the  ship.  We  are 
again  saluted  by  a  whale. 

1st  Feb.  Pleasant ;  all  appear  at  table ;  enter  the  trade  winds ; 
hoist  studding-sails ;  lovely  day;  4,  p»m.,  mate  catches  a  dolphin, 
and  brings  him  on  deck.  2d.  Calm  summer  day.  8d.  All  on 
deck ;  extremely  pleasant.  4th.  Sunday ;  pleasant ;  pass  a 
ship  ;  fine  breeze ;  throw  the  log ;  are  running  eight  knots.  5th. 
Pass  through  schools  of  flying-fish,  one  of  which  flies  on  board. 
We  enter  the  tropic  of  Cancer.  A  flock  of  black  heron  are 
flying  through  the  air  ;  we  take  an  observation;  are  eighty  miles 
from  Cay  cos  and  Turk's  Island  ;  making  for  the  Caycos  passage. 
7th.  5,  P.M.  The  captain  discovers  land  from  the  mast-head,  and 
we  are  cheered  with  the  cry  of  "Land,  IIo  !''  We  pass  around 
Caycos  Island,  and  through  the  passage ;  and  on  the  morning 
of  the  8th,  are  in  sight  of  St.  Domingo,  sixty  miles  distant.  It 
looms  up  from  the  horizon  like  a  heavy  black  cloud.  9th.  Pass 
the  island  of  Cuba,  and  on  the  10th  enter  the  Caribbean  Sea.  We 
passed  near  the  island  of  Nevassa,  a  small  rocky  island,  inhabit- 
ed only  by  sea-fowl.  They  mistaking  our  vessel  for  a  fowl 
of  a  larger  species,  came  off  in  flocks,  until  our  rigging  was 
filled,  and  the  sun  almost  obscured.  They  met  with  a  foul 
reception.  There  were  eighty  passengers  on  board,  all  armed. 
They  could  not  resist  the  temptation,  but  wantonly  mutilated 
the  unsuspecting  birds,  many  of  which  expiated  with  their  lives 
the  crime  of  confiding  in  strangers.  One  would  receive  a  charge 
of  shot,  with  which  it  would  fly  back  to  the  island,  uttering  the 
most  unharmonious  screeches,  when  a  new  deputation  would  set 
off  for  us,  many  of  them  destined  to  return  to  the  island  in  the 
same  musical  mood.  Fortunately,  we  were  driven  along  by  the 
breeze,  and  they  returned  to  their  homes,  and  have,  no  doubt, 
spent  many  an  evening  around  the  family  hearth,  speculating 
upon  the  peculiar  sensations  experienced  on  that  occasion.  The 
enthusiasm  of  the  passengers  did  not  immediately  subside,  but 
they  spent  the  afternoon  in  shooting  at  targets. 

11th.  Thermometer  standing  at  80°.  We  are  carried  along 
with  a  three-knot  breeze ;  our  ship  bowing  gracefully  to  the 
undulations  of  the  sea.  It  being  Sunday,  home  presents  itself 
vividly  to  our  imagination.     13th.  Standing  in  for  the  coast  of 


12  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

Xew  Grenada ;  at  6  P.  m.,  the  captain  cries  out  from  the  mast- 
head, "Land  Ho!"  We  shorten  sail,  and  on  the  morning  of 
the  14th  are  standing  in  for  the  port  of  Chagres. 

A  most  beautiful  scene  is  spread  out  before  us ;  we  are  mak- 
ing directly  for  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  left  point  of  the 
entrance  being  a  bold,  rocky  promontory,  surmounted  by  forti- 
fications. (See  Plate).  The  coast  to  the  left  is  bold  and  rocky, 
extending  a  distance  of  five  miles,  and  terminating  in  a  rocky 
promontory,  one  of  the  points  to  the  entrance  of  Navy  Bay, 
the  anticipated  terminus  of  the  Panama  railroad.  The  coast 
to  the  right  is  low,  stretching  away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 
In  the  background  is  a  succession  of  elevations,  terminating  in 
mountains  of  considerable  height,  the  valleys,  as  well  as  the 
crests  of  the  hills,  being  covered  with  a  most  luxuriant  growth 
of  vegetation,  together  with  the  palm,  cocoa-nut,  and  other  trop- 
ical trees  of  the  most  gigantic  size.  As  we  neared  the  port, 
we  passed  around  the  steamer  Falcon,  which  had  just  come  to 
anchor,  and  passing  on  to  within  half  a  mile  of  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  we  rounded  to,  and  let  go  our  anchor. 


—   Co 


^V|.^..;^p      ,,|||.|,. 


NATIVES  AND  "  BUNG OES"— CRESCENT  CITY  AERIVES— WE  SAIL  INTO  THE  MOUTH  OF  THE 
BIVER— PREPARE  FOR  A  FIGHT— FASHIONS  AND  FORTIFICATIONS— AN  HONEST  ALCALDE 
—NON-FULFILLMENT  OF  CONTRACTS. 

Our  attention  was  first  attracted  to  the  natives  wlio  were 
rowing  off  to  us  in  *'  bungoes,"  or  canoes  of  immense  size,  each 
manned  by  eight,  ten,  or  twelve  natives,  apparently  in  a  state 
of  nudity.  Their  manner  of  propelling  their  craft  was  as  novel 
as  their  appearance  was  ludicrous.  They  rise  simultaneously, 
stepping  up  on  a  high  seat,  and,  uttering  a  peculiar  cry,  throw 
themselves  back  on  their  oars,  and  resume  their  former  seats. 
This  is  done  with  as  much  uniformity  as  if  they  were  an  entire 
piece  of  machinery.  In  the  afternoon  the  Crescent  City  came 
to  anchor,  together  with  several  sailing  vessels,  bringing,  in  all, 
about  one  thousand  passengers. 

We  remained  outside  until  the  17th,  when  we  weighed  anchor 
and  passed  into  the  mouth,  making  fast  to  the  right  bank,  now 
called  the  American  side  of  the  river.  We  found  an  abundance 
of  water  in  the  channel,  but  at  the  entrance  several  dangerous 
rocks.  As  this  coast  is  subject  to  severe  northers,  it  is  an 
extremely  difficult  port  to  make.  The  steamers  still  anchor 
some  two  miles  out.  We  found  several  vessels  near  the  mouth, 
beached  and  filled. 

It  was  amusing  to  see  the  passengers  preparing  to  make  their 
advent  on  land.  It  is  well  understood  that  no  one  started  for 
California  without  being  thoroughly  fortified,  and  as  we  had 
arrived  at  a  place,  where,  as  we  thought,  there  must  be,  at  least, 
some  fighting  to  do,  our  first  attention  was  directed  to  our  armor. 
The  revolvers,  each  man  having  at  least  two,  were  first  over-  • 
hauled,  and  the  six  barrels  charged.  These  were  put  in  bur 
belt,  which  also  contained  a  bowie  knife.     A  brace  of  smaller 


14  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

pistols  are  snugly  pocketed  inside  our  vest ;  our  rifles  are  liber- 
ally cliarged ;  and  with  a  cane  in  hand,  (which  of  course  con- 
tains a  dirk),  and  a  slung  shot  in  our  pockets,  we  step  off  and 
look  around  for  the  enemy. 

We  crossed  the  river  to  Chagres,  which  consists  of  about 
thirty  huts  constructed  of  reeds,  and  thatched  with  palm-leaves, 
the  inhabitants,  the  most  squalid  set  of  beings  imaginable. 
They  are  all  good  Catholics,  but  do  not  go  to  the  Bible  for  the 
fashions.  There  are  fig-leaves  in  abundance,  yet  they  are  con- 
sidered by  the  inhabitants  quite  superfluous,  they  preferring  the 
garments  that  nature  gave  them,  sometimes,  however,  adding  a 
Panama  hat. 

We  visited  the  fortifications,  which  were  in  a  dilapidated  state, 
the  walls  fast  falling  to  decay.  The  only  sentinels  at  the  time 
of  our  visit,  were  three  goats  and  two  children.  (See  Plate.) 
It  has  a  commanding  position,  and  has  been  a  work  of  much 
strength,  but  the  guns  are  now  dismounted,  and  the  inhabitants 
ignorant  of  their  use.  In  returning  from  the  fort,  we  crossed  'a 
stream  where  a  party  of  ladies  were  undressing  for  a  bath,  i.  e., 
they  were  taking  off  their  hats.  We  passed  on,  and  after  view- 
ing the  "lions,"  returned  to  our  vessel,  not  very  favorably  im- 
pressed with  the  manners  or  customs  of  the  town. 

We  had  contracted  with  the  Alcalde  for  canoes  to  carry  us  up 
the  river.  The  steamboat  Orus,  then  plying  on  the  river,  hav- 
ing contracted  to  take  up  the  Falcon's  passengers,-  had  offered 
an  advanced  price,  and  secured  all  the  canoes,  including  ours. 
Our  Alcalde  had  been  struck  down  to  the  highest  bidder,  and 
I  will  here  say  that,  although  many  charges  have  been 
brought  against  the  New  Grenadians,  they  have  never  been 
accused  of  fulfilling  a  contract,  especially  if  they  could  make 
a  "rea?"  by  breaking  it.  We  did  not  relish  the  idea  of  remain- 
ing until  the  canoes  returned,  as  Chagres  had  the  name,  (and  it 
undoubtedly  deserved  it,)  of  being  the  most  unhealthy  place  in 
Christendom.  Many  of  our  passengers  had  their  lives  insured 
before  starting,  and  there  was  a  clause  in  each  policy,  that  re- 
maining at  Chagres  over  night  would  be  a  forfeiture. 

The  trunks  of  the  steamers'  passengers,  particularly  those  of 
the  Crescent  City,  were  landed  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  while 
their  owners  were  endeavoring  to  secure  passage  up.     The 


U,^^'y\ 


IV  i'^' 


o  mdW 


MTfe 


KON-FULFILLMENT  OF  CONTRACTS.  15 

"bungoes"  liad  all  gone  up  with  tlie  Orus.  There  were  left 
two  or  three  small  canoes,  and  the  scenes  of  competition  around 
these  were  exciting,  and  often  ludicrous  in  the  extreme.  Now 
a  man  would  contract  for  passage  for  himself  and  friend,  and 
while  absent  to  arrange  some  little  matter  preparatory  to  a  start, 
some  one  would  offer  the  worthy  Padrone  (captain)  a  higher 
price,  when  he  would  immediately  put  the  trunks  of  the  first 
two  on  shore,  and  take  on  board  those  of  the  latter,  together 
with  their  owners,  and  shove  out  into  the  stream.  ISTow  the 
first  two  would  appear,  with  hands  filled  with  refreshments  for 
the  voyage,  and  begin  to  look  around  for  their  boat.  In  a  mo- 
ment their  eyes  fall  upon  their  trunks,  and  the  truth  flashes 
across  their  imagination.  Now  the  scene  of  excitement  begins. 
The  boat  is  ordered  to  the  shore,  it  don't  come,  and  they  at- 
tempt to  wade  out  to  it.  The  first  step  convinces  them  of  the 
impracticability  of  this  expedient,  as  they  sink  into  the  mud  to 
their  necks.  Kevolvers,  are  flourished,  but  they  can  be  used 
by  both  parties,  consequently  are  not  used  at  all. 


Clia|ittr  €iiirt 


FIEST  ATTEUTT  AT  BOAT  BUILDING— EXCITEMENT  "  ON  'CHANGE"— A  LAUNCH  AND  CLEAKp 
ANCE— THE  CBEW— A  MUTINY— QUELLED — POOR  ACCOMMODATIONS— A  NIGHT  IN  ANGEB— 
AN  ANTHEM  TO  THE  SUN— NATURE  IN  FULL  DRESS. 

We  saw  but  one  alternative,  wliich  was,  to  construct  a  boat 
ourselves,  and  work  it  up  tbe  river.  Upon  this  we  decided,  and 
purchasing  the  temporary  berths  of  our  vessel,  soon  had  a  boat 
on  the  stocks,  6  feet  by  19,  and  in  three  days  it  was  afloat  at 
the  side  of  the  "Marietta,"  receiving  Its  freight.  "We  called  it 
the  "ifmerva,"  and  she  was  probably  the  first  American-bottom 
ever  launched  at  this  port.  A  misfortune  here  befel  me  which 
I  will  relate  somewhat  minutely,  as  it  was  undoubtedly  the 
cause  of  the  death  of  a  party  concerned.  In  going  out  one 
morning  to  assist  in  the  construction  of  the  boat,  I  left  mj  vest, 
which  had  a  sum  of  money  sewed  up  in  the  upper  side  pocket, 
in  my  berth,  covered  in  such  a  manner  I  thought  no  one  could 
discover  it.  I  did  not  give  it  a  thought  during  the  day,  but  on 
going  to  my  berth  in  the  evening,  I  noticed  the  covering  had 
been  disturbed,  and  as  my  room-mates  were  in  the  habit  of 
helping  themselves  to  prunes,  from  a  box  in  my  berth,  I  imag- 
ined they  had  discovered  and  taken  care  of  it.  I  was  the  more 
strongly  impressed  that  this  was  the  case  from  the  fact  that  they 
had  frequently  spoken  of  my  carelessness.  I  immediately  saw 
them ;  they  had  seen  nothing  of  it.  Watches  were  stationed  and 
the  ship  searched,  but  no  trace  of  the  money.  A  person  who 
had  had  access  to  the  cabin  on  that  day  for  the  first  time  was 
strongly  suspected,  but  no  trace  of  the  money  found.  Our  sus- 
picions, however,  were  well  founded,  as  the  sequel  will  show. 
The  passengers  very  kindly  offered  to  make  up  a  part  of  the 
loss,  but  as  I  had  a  little  left  I  most  respectfully  declined  its  ac- 
ceptance.    "We  had  about  8000  lbs.  of  freight  and  nine  persons, 


lint  V 


^t^t  r, 


%-^ 


*■ 


I  ^^•^ 


'4 


.l 


^ 


A  LAUNCH  AND   CLEAKANCE.  17 

and  at  2  p.  m.,  22d  Feb.,  gave  the  word,  "let  go,"  run  up  our 
sail,  and  as  it  was  blowing  a  stiff  breeze  from  the  ocean,  glided 
rapidly  along  up  the  river,  our  worthy  captain,  Dennison,  and 
his  accomplished  mate,  Wm.  BHss,  of  the  "Marietta,"  calling  all 
hands  on  deck,  and  giving  us  three  times  three  as  we  parted,  to 
which  adios  we  responded  with  feeling  hearts.  Now,  as  there 
is  a  straight  run  of  three  miles,  a  fair  wind,  and  nothing  to  do 
but  attend  to  our  sail  and  tiller,  we  will  take  a  survey  of  craft 
and  crew.  We  are  freighted  with  trunks,  shovels,  pick-axes, 
India-rubber  bags,  smoked  ham,  rifles,  camp-kettles,  hard-bread, 
swords  and  cheese.  Our  crew,  commencing  at  the  tallest,  (we 
had  no  first  ofScer,)  consisted  of  two  brothers.  Dodge,  young 
men  of  intelligence  and  enterprise ;  the  eldest  a  man  of  the  most 
indomitable  perseverance,  the  younger  of  the  most  unbounded 
good  humor,  both  calculated  to  make  friends  wherever  they  go, 
and  to  ride  over  difficulties  without  a  murmur.  They  had  asso- 
ciated with  them  three  Germans,  Shultz,  Eiswald,  and  Hush. 
Shultz  was  a  young  man  of  energy,  fond  of  music^  a  good  sing- 
er, gentlemanly  and  companionable ;  Eiswald,  full  of  humor 
and  mirth,  extracting  pleasure  from  every  incident,  always  at 
his  post,  a  fine  companion  and  good  navigator ;  Hush,  was  a 
small  man,  with  exceedingly  large  feet ;  he  appeared  to  be  en- 
tirely out  of  his  element ;  he  was  disposed  to  do  all  he  could, 
but  his  limbs  would  not  obey  him ;  his  arms  appeared  to  be 
mismated ;  his  legs,  when  set  in  motion,  would  each  take  an 
opposite  direction,  and  his  feet  were  everywhere,  except  where 
he  wanted  to  have  them.  We  were  quite  safe  when  he  was 
still,  but  when  set  in  motion  we  found  him  a  dangerous  com- 
panion. Mr.  Euss,  a  young  lawyer  of  New  York,  Mr.  Cooper, 
an  artist,  also  of  New  York,  a  man  of  energy,  perseverance  and 
genius,  and  one  of  the  most  efficient  men  of  the  party.  Mr. 
Beaty,  an  elderly  man,  extremely  tall  and  slender,  and  very 
moral  and  exemplary  in  his  habits ;  being  in  feeble  health,  he 
was  to  act  as  cook  for  the  voyage.  Ninthly  and  lastly,  myself, 
an  extremely  choleric  young  man,  of  whom  delicacy  forbids  me 
to  say  more. 

We  have  now  arrived  at  the  bend  of  the  river,  and  as  here  is 
a  spring  of  excellent  water,  we  make  fast  and  fill  our  water-keg.. 
Water  is  obtained  here  for  the  vessels  in  port,  by  sending  up 
2 


18  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

small  boats.  It  can  be  obtained  in  any  quantity,  and  a  more 
lovely  place  cannot  well  be  conceived  of.  After  adjusting  onr 
baggage  preparatory  to  manning  our  oars,  we  again  sboved  out 
into  the  stream.  "We  manned  four  oars,  consequently  kept  a 
reserve.  VTe  were  all  fresh,  and  vigorous,  and,  being  mucli 
elated  with  the  novelty  of  our  voyage,  resolved  to  work  the 
boat  all  night.  It  was  already  quite  dark,  but  with  the  aid  of  a 
lamp  we  kept  on  our  course.  The  river  here  was  walled  up  on 
either  side  by  gigantic  trees,  their  branches  interchanging  over 
our  heads,  almost  shutting  out  the  stars.  Sometimes  the  branches 
stretching  out  but  little  above  the  surflice  of  the  river,  were 
filled  with  water  fowls,  the  white  heron  presenting  a  strange 
and  most  striking  appearance.  They  would  start  with  fright  at 
our  approach,  striking  wildly  in  the  dark  with  their  wing-s ;  some 
would  find  secure  resting-places  on  the  more  elevated  branches, 
while  others  would  settle  down  through  the  dense  foliage  to  the 
margin  of  the  river.  Innumerable  bats,  attracted  by  our  light, 
were  flitting  along  the  surface  of  the  river,  but  aside  from  these 
all  nature  appeared  to  be  hushed  in  sleep. 

We  moved  along  with  much  spirit  until  about  eleven  o'clock, 
when  there  were  symptoms  of  disafiection.  Some  were  weary, 
others  sleepy ;  some  declared  they  would  work  no  longer, 
others  that  the  boat  should  not  stop.  TTe  had  all  the  premon- 
itory symptoms  of  a  mutiny.  It  was  suggested  that  we  should 
uncork  a  bottle  of  brandy,  which  was  accordingly  done,  and  it 
was  soon  unanimously  declared  that  our  prospects  had  never  ap- 
peared so  flattering.  I  am  sure  our  boat  was  never  propelled 
with  such  energy.  I  am  not  prepared  to  say  that  the  brandy 
dichiH  have  an  influence.  We  moved  along  rapidly  for  an  hour 
when  we  had  a  relapse  of  the  same  disafiection.  We  resolved 
to  stop  ;  but  we  were  in  a  dilemma.  We  had  left  home  under 
the  impression  that  the  Chagres  river  was  governed  by  alligators 
and  anacondas,  assisted  by  all  the  venomous  reptiles  in  the 
"  whole  dire  catalogue,"  consequently,  to  run  to  the  shore  was 
to  run  right  into  the  jaws  of  death,  which  we  did  not  care  to  do 
at  this  particular  time.  We  pulled  along  until  we  came  in  con- 
tact with  a  limb,  which  stretched  out  over  the  surface  of  the 
river,  to  which  we  made  fast.  After  detailing  two  of  the  party 
as  a  watch,  we  stowed  ourselves  away  as  best  we  could.    I  was 


NATUEE   m  FULL  DRESS.  19 

in  a  half-sitting  posture — mj  feet  hanging  outside  tlie  boat,  mj 
back  coming  in  contact  with  the  chime  of  our  water-keg.  I 
tried  for  some  time  to  sleep,  but  in  vain.  I  tried  to  persuade 
myself  that  I  was  at  home  in  a  comfortable  bed,  just  falling  into 
a  doze,  but  my  back  was  not  to  be  deceived  in  that  way  ;  and 
after  spending  two  hours  in  my  uncomfortable  position,  I  got 
up.  I  found  that  my  companions  had  been  as  badly  lodged  as 
myself,  and  all  as  anxious  to  man  the  oars.  We  were  soon  un- 
der way,  and  soon  the  approaching  day  was  proclaimed  by  the 
incessant  howl  of  the  animal  creation,  including  the  tiger,  leop- 
ard, cougar,  monkeys,  &c.,  &c.,  accompanied  by  innumerable 
parrots  and  other  tropical  birds.  All  nature  seemed  to  be  in 
motion.  The  scene  is  indelibly  impressed  upon  my  memory. 
The  trees  on  the  margin  of  the  river  were  of  immense  size, 
clothed  to  their  tops  with  morning-glories  and  other  flowers  of 
every  conceivable  hue,  their  tendrils  stooping  down,  kissing  the 
placid  bosom  of  the  river.  Birds  of  the  most  brilliant  plumage 
were  flying  through  the  air,  in  transports  of  joy.  All  nature 
seemed  to  hail  the  sun  with  bursts  of  rapture.  Everything  ap- 
peared to  me  so  new  and  strange.  My  transition  from  a  north- 
ern winter  to  this  delightful  climate,  seemed  like  magic,  and 
appeared  like  a  scene  of  enchantment,  like  the  dawning  of  a 
new  creation. 


CjjEpttr  /nurtlj. 


BREAKFAST— PRIMITIVE  MODE  OF  LIFE— MEET  THE  "  ORUS  "-MUTINY  AND  RAIN— A 
STEP  BACKWARDS — ENCAMPMENT — A  "FORTIFIED"  AND  FRIGHTENED  INDIVIDUAL — 
SPORTING— MOSQUrrOS. 

We  moved  along  until  tlie  snn  liad  ascended  the  horizon, 
when  we  made  fast  to  the  shore  and  took  breakfast.  Being 
somewhat  fatigued,  we  remained  until  after  dinner.  "We  were 
visited  here  by  two  native  men  and  a  little  boy,  all  dressed  in 
black,  the  suits  that  nature  gave  them.  They  were  cutting 
poles  with  big  knives  or  machets ;  they  had  brought  their 
dinner  with  them,  which  consisted  of  a  piece  of  sugar-cane,  a 
foot  in  length. 

We  again  manned  our  oars  and  worked  our  boat  until  about 
sunset,  when  we  drew  along  shore  at  a  pleasant  point  designing 
to  encamp.  Some  of  the  party  were  anxious  to  gain  a  higher 
point  on  the  river,  and  we  again  pushed  out.  As  we  were 
gaining  the  middle  of  the  stream,  a  canoe  turned  the  point  con- 
taining two  boys ;  they  immediately  cried  out,  "  vapor !  va- 
por !"  (steamboat,  steamboat,)  and  before  we  could  reach  the 
shore,  the  "  Orus"  came  dashing  around  the  point,  throwing  her 
swell  over  the  sides  of  our  boat,  and  we  were  near  being 
swamped.  This  caused  great  consternation  and  excitement, 
which  soon  subsided,  and  we  were  again  under  way.  We  were, 
however,  destined  not  to  end  our  day's  journeyj  without  addi- 
tional difficulties.  We  worked  an  hour  without  finding  a  suit- 
able place  to  spend  the  night.  Those  having  proposed  stopping 
below,  now  strongly  demurred  to  going  on,  and  after  an  eloquent 
and  spirited  discussion,  it  was  decided  by  a  majority  vote,  that 
we  should  run  back.  It  commenced  to  rain  about  this  time, 
and  we  returned  in  not  the  most  amiable  mood. 

We  erected  an  india  rubber  tent  on  shore  and,  laying  our 


PRIMITIVE  MODE  OF  LIFE.  21 

masts  fore  and  aft,  tlirew  our  sail  over  it  as  a  protection  to  tlie 
boat;  and,  after  supper,  detailed  our  watch,  when  another 
attempt  was  made  to  sleep.  Mr.  Hush  and  myself,  were  on  the 
first  watch.  I  took  my  station  in  the  boat,  but  there  being  a 
strange  commotion  in  the  water,  and  the  sides  of  the  boat  not 
being  very  high,  Mr.  H.  preferred  the  shore.  He  armed  himself 
with  a  brace  of  revolvers,  and  one  of  horse  pistols,  a  bowie-knife, 
a  large  German  rifle  and  broad  sword,  and  stepped  on  shore. 
The  night  was  extremely  quiet,  and  at  ten  o'clock  it  ceased  to 
rain.  Nothing  was  heard  except  the  peculiar  whistle  of  a  bird, 
which  much  resembled  that  of  a  school  boy.  The  river,  however, 
was  in  a  constant  agitation,  which  we  presumed  to  be  caused  by 
alligators  rushing  into  schools  of  fish. 

At  12,  Mr.  H.  thought  he  heard  a  strange  noise  in  the  forest, 
approaching  the  encampment,  and  in  a  few  minutes  uttering  a 
most  unearthly  yell,  he  jumped  for  the  boat.  His  feet  hanging 
a  little  **  too  low  on  the  edge,"  caught  under  a  root,  and  he 
brought  up  in  the  river.  This  being  full  of  alligators,  only 
added  to  his  fright,  and  the  precise  time  it  took  him  to  get  out, 
I  am  unable  to  say. 

The  morning  was  again  hailed  by  universal  acclamation, 
and  after  an  early  breakfast  we  resumed  our  voyage.  We  had 
a  pleasant  run  during  the  day,  stopping  frequently  to  secure 
pheasants,  pigeons,  toucans,  parrots,  &c.  The  latter  are  not 
very  palatable,  but  we  were  not  disposed  to  be  fastidious,  and 
every  thing  we  shot,  except  alligators,  went  into  the  camp-kettle. 
Late  in  the  afternoon  we  met  a  bungo,  the  natives  pointing  to  a 
tree,  the  top  of  which  was  filled  with  wild  turkeys.  We  pulled 
along  under  the  tree,  discharged  a  volley,  and  succeeded  in 
frightening  them  to  another.  Having  a  carbine  charged  with 
shot,  I  brought  one  to  the  ground.  I  climbed  up  the  bank,  but 
found  the  forest  impenetrable.  The  under  growth  was  a  dense 
chaparal,  interlaced  with  vines,  every  shrub  and  tree  armed 
with  thorns.  I,  however,  with  my  machet^  reached  the  turkey. 
There  being  a  sandy  beach  near,  we  resolved  to  encamp  for  the 
night ;  and  while  we  were  pitching  our  tent,  Mr.  B.  dressed  and 
cooked  our  turkey. 

We  were  here  attacked  by  one  of  the  most  ravenous  swarms 
of  musqui  tos  it  was  ever  my  lot  to  encounter.   We  had  promised 


22  CALUOP.XIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

ourselves  a  comfortable  night's  rest,  but  it  was  like  most  of  tlie 
promises  one  makes  himself.  We  entered  the  campaign  with 
tTie  greatest  zeal ;  but  before  morning,  would  have  been  glad  to 
capitulate  on  any  terms.  The  morning  dawned  as  it  only 
dawns  within  the  tropics.  Being  Sunday  we  resolved  to  rest, 
and  called  our  place  of  encampment,  Point  Domingo. 


Cjjaptu  /iftji. 


FIKST  BAPID— AN  UNFORTUNATE  INDIVIDUAL— A  STEP  BACKWARDS— SEVERAL  INDIVIDU- 
ALS IN  A  STATE  OP  EXCITEMENT— TIN  PANS  NOT  EXACTLY  THE  THING— A  BREAKFAST 
EXTINGUISHED — SPORTING— MONKEY  AMUSEMENTS— A  "  FLASH  IN  THE  PAN  "—TWO  FEET 
IN  OJJB,  PROVISION  BASKET — POVERTY  OF  THE  INHABITANTS  AND  THEIR  DOGS — AR- 
RIVAL AT  GORGONA. 

Monday  morning,  having  an  earlj  breakfast,  we  were  again 
under  way.  We  shot  several  alligators,  and  at  10,  a.m.,  arrived 
at  the  first  rapid.  We  uncorked  a  bottle  of  brandy  and  prepared 
for  hard  work.  As  Mr.  Hush  did  not  help  work  the  boat,  {it 
was  not  safe  to  give  him  a  pole)  it  was  suggested  that  he  should 
walk.  We  commenced  the  ascent,  and  after  an  hour  of  hard 
labor,  gained  the  summit.  We  drew  up  along  shore,  and  Mr. 
H.  attempted  to  jump  on  board.  His  feet,  as  usual,  taking  the 
wrong  direotion,  he  stumbled  and  caught  hold  of  an  India  rub- 
ber bag  for  support,  which  not  being  securely  fastened,  went 
overboard.  The  current  being  strong  it  passed  rapidly  down, 
and  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  follow  it  with  the  boat.  We 
soon  found  ourselves  going  with  the  greatest  velocity,  down  the 
rapid  we  had  just  toiled  so  hard  to  ascend.  We  overtook  the 
bag  at  the  foot,  and  making  fast  to  the  shore,  we  held  a  very  ani- 
mated colloquy,  which  was  embellished  with  an  occasional  oath 
by  way  of  emphasis.  Mr.  H.  suspected  that  he  was  the  subject 
of  our  animadversions,  but  there  was  nothing  said. 

We  again  ascended  the  rapid,  and  worked  on  until  rain 
and  night  overtook  us.  We  were  obliged  to  encamp  on  an 
unpleasant  rocky  shore,  and  cook  supper  in  the  rain.  We 
passed  an  uncomfortable  night ;  and  in  the  morning  it  was  still 
raining  in  torrents.  We  were  furnished  with  India  rubber 
ponchos  and  were  making  preparations  to  start  while  Mr.  Cooper 
and  Mr.  Beaty  were  preparing  breakfast.     It  was  diflQ.cult  to  get 


24  CALIFORXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

fuel,  and  still  more  difficult  to  make  it  burn.  They  however 
succeeded  in  kindling  the  fire.  "We  usually  boiled  our  coffee- 
water  in  the  camp-kettle,  but  this  being  full  of  game,  we  filled  a 
large  tin  pan  with  water,  and  placed  it  over  the  fire,  supported 
by  three  stones.  The  ham  was  frying  briskly  by  the  fire,  our 
chocolate  dissolving,  and  every  thing  going  on  swimraingly^  when 
one  of  the  stones  turned,  capsizing  the  tin  pan,  putting  out 
every  particle  of  fire,  and  filling  the  chocolate  and  ham  with 
ashes.  (See  plate.)  Mr.  Cooper  was  frantic  with  rage,  doffing 
his  hat,  throwing  the  ham  into  the  river,  kicking  over  the  choc- 
olate cup,  cursing  every  thing  in  general,  and  tin  pans  in  partic- 
ular, while  Mr.  Beaty,  with  a  most  rueful  countenance,  clasped 
his  hands,  exclaiming,  "  Oh !  my !  ! !" 

Mr.  Dodge  came  to  the  rescue,  and  we  had  a  warm  breakfast, 
and  were  soon  under  way.  At  ten,  the  sun  came  out,  and  we 
had  a  pleasant  run,  using  our  sail.  We  encamped  in  a  delight- 
ful place  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  had  a  comfortable 
night's  rest.  When  we  awoke  in  the  morning,  the  air  was  filled 
with  parrots,  toucans,  tropical  pheasants,  etc.  Oar  guns  were 
immediately  brought  into  requisition,  and  we  soon  procured  a 
full  supply,  including  seven  pheasants.  One  of  the  party  and 
myself  finding  a  path  that  had  been  beaten  by  wild  beasts 
resolved  to  follow  it,  and  penetrate  more  deeply  into  the  forest. 
After  going  some  distance  we  heard  a  strange  noise,  which 
induced  my  companion  to  return.  Being  well  armed  I  pro- 
ceeded on,  and  soon  came  upon  a  party  of  monkeys  taking 
their  morning  exercise.  There  were  about  twenty  of  them,  in 
the  top  of  a  large  tree.  The  larger  ones  would  take  the  smaller 
and  pretend  they  were  about  to  throw  them  off;  the  little  ones, 
in  the  mean  time,  struggling  for  life.  There  was  one  very  large 
one,  with  a  white  face,  who  appeared  to  be  doing  the  honors  of 
the  occasion,  viz.,  laughing  when  the  little  ones  were  frightened. 
If  I  had  been  within  speaking  distance  of  his  honor^  I  would 
have  informed  him  that  his  uncouth  laugh  had  diminished  the 
audience  on  the  present  occasion  by  at  least  one  half  I  did 
not  break  in  upon  their  sports,  but,  following  the  path,  soon 
found  myself  at  a  bend  of  the  river. 

A  native  was  passing,  who  informed  me  that  there  were  tur- 
keys on  the  other  side.     I  stepped  into  his  canoe,  and  in  a 


/^  .'-M 


■:^.'-r       fe. 


;X  c" 


< 


2:    ? 
< 

U 

CE 


POVERTY   OF  THE  INHABITANTS.  25 

moment  we  were  climbing  tlie  opposite  bank.  When  witMn 
shooting  distance  I  raised  my  gun ;  it  missed  fire,  and  the  tur- 
keys flew  away,  the  native  exclaiming  '•'■mucho  malor  We 
recrossed,  and  I  soon  reached  the  encampment.  Our  game  was 
cooked,  and  the  party  ready  to  embark.  We  shoved  out,  but, 
unfortunately.  Hush  had  forgotten  his  bowie  knife.  We  floated 
back,  he  ascended  the  bank,  and  succeeded  in  finding  it.  In 
returning,  he  found  it  difficult  to  reach  the  boat ;  the  bank  being 
quite  abrupt,  he,  however,  determined  to  jump,  and,  after  mak- 
ing a  few  peculiar  gyrations  with  his  arms,  he  did  jump,  and 
landed  both  feet  in  our  provision  basket,  breaking  several  bot- 
tles, and  in  his  efibrt  to  extricate  himself  kicked  the  basket 
overboard.  He  would  have  followed  it,  had  it  not  been  for 
timely  assistance. 

The  day  was  excessively  hot,  the  river  rapid,  and  our  pro- 
gress slow.  In  the  after  part  of  the  day,  we  passed  a  rancho 
where  there  were  a  few  hills  of  corn,  the  first  sign  of  industry 
we  had  seen  along  the  river.  One  can  hardly  conceive  of 
a  country  susceptible  of  a  higher  cultivation.  They  have  a 
perpetual  summer;  tropical  fruits  grow  spontaneously;  they 
have  the  finest  bottom  lands  for  rice,  tobacco,  cotton,  corn,  or 
sugar  plantations  perhaps  on  this  continent ;  yet,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a  very  little  corn  and  sugar,  nothing  is  cultivated. 
The  enterprise  of  the  States  would  make  the  country  a  paradise. 

We  encamped  at  night  where  the  river  had  a  peculiar  bend, 
forming  a  horse-shoe,  and  one  of  the  most  delightful  spots  I 
ever  saw.  I  selected  it  for  my  own  use — as  a  rice  and  sugar 
plantation — ^but  have  not  yet  had  the  title  examined.  In  the 
middle  of  the  night  a  canoe  passed  down  in  which  was  the  man 
suspected  of  having  borrowed  my  vest.  He  spoke  to  one  of 
our  party,  said  he  was  on  his  way  to  Chagres,  on  business, 
but  would  return  to  Gorgona  immediately.  We  took  an 
early  start  in  the  morning,  and  at  nine  stopped  at  a  rancho  to 
purchase  cigars.  Such  a  squalid  family  I  never  saw.  There 
were  three  women,  two  or  three  young  ladies,  and  half  a  dozen 
children — none  of  them  were  dressed,  excepting  a  little  boy 
who  had  on  a  checked  palm  leaf  hat.  We  asked  for  cigars, 
they  had  none,  but  would  make  some  for  us,  "poco  tiempo," 
(little  time).    We  couldn't  wait.     We  were  much  struck  with 


26  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

the  appearance  of  tlie  dog,  wliicli  was  so  poor  tliat,  in  attempt- 
ing to  bark  at  us,  it  turned  a  summerset.  We  were  now  not 
far  from  Gorgona,  and  exerted  every  nerve  to  reach  our  desti- 
nation. At  noon,  while  at  dinner,  a  young  native  approached 
us  from  the  forest,  and  proposed  to  help  work  the  boat  up  to 
Gorgona.  As  he  was  a  tall,  athletic  young  fellow,  and  didnH 
charge  anything^  we  accepted  his  proposition,  and  gave  him  his 
dinner.  We  were  -now  six  miles  from  Gorgona,  and  with  the 
aid  of  our  native  there  was  a  prospect  of  arriving  in  good  time. 
The  river  was  shallow,  with  frequent  rapids,  and,  although  our 
boat  drew  only  nine  inches  water,  we  were  frequently  obliged 
to  get  out  and  tow  it  up.  (See  Plate).  Your  humble  servant 
is  standing  on  the  bow  of  the  boat  with  a  long  pole.  Cooper  is 
^^ 'boosting''''  at  the  side.  Hush  is  doing  duty — the  first  on  the 
rope.  Dodge  is  in  a  passion  and  in  the  act  of  addressing  some 
emphatic  remark  to  gentlemen  on  board.  ISTatives  are  seen  in 
their  canoes,  and  just  above,  seated  on  the  limb  of  a  tree,  is 
a  monkey  who  appears  to  be  looking  on  enjoying  the  scene. 
As  we  passed  under  the  tree  he  came  down  upon  one  of  the 
lower  branches,  and  seemed  disposed  to  take  passage.  An  alli- 
gator is  seen  on  the  bank  below,  and  in  the  air  innumerable 
parrots.  The  noise  of  these  is  one  of  the  annoyances  of  this 
country,  their  screeching  incessant  and  intolerable.  Late  in  the 
afternoon  we  arrived  within  half  a  mile  of  Gorgona,  which  was 
behind  a  bend  of  the  river,  where  our  native  wished  to  land. 
We  soon  passed  the  bend,  when  the  town  was  in  full  view,  and 
in  a  few  moments  our  labors  were  at  an  end.  Our  friends  had 
felt  some  solicitation  for  us.  Seven  days  was  an  unusual  passage 
at  this  season  of  the  yeai\  and  if  they  had  wished  to  effect  an 
insurance  on  us  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  could  have  been  done 
in  Gorgona  at  the  usual  rates. 


r  ^  > , 


^^^^ 


Cljaptn  liitlj. 


CUSTOMS  AND  DRESS  OF  THE  NOBILITY— A  SUSPICIOUS  INDIVIDUAL— JOURNEY  TO  PANAMA — 
ANIGHT  PROCESSION— A  WEALTHY  LADY  EN  "BLOOMER  "—AN  AGREEABLE  NIGHT  SUB- 
PRISE— "HUSH  "  ON  HORSE  BACK— CAPTAIN  TYLER  SHOT— A  MOUNTAIN  PASS  AT  NIGHT — 
THUNDER  STORM  IN  THE  TROPICS. 

The  town  is  pleasantly  situated  about  fifty  feet  above  the 
level  of  tlie  river,  and  contains  some  eight  hundred  inhabitants. 
At  the  time  of  our  arrival,  there  were  about  five  hundred  Amer- 
icans encamped  in  the  town.  The  buildings  are  mostly  con- 
structed of  reed,,  thatched  with  palm-leaf.  (See  Plate).  A  ham- 
mock is  slung  under  the  eave  of  one  of  these  houses,  occupied 
by  the  mother,  in  the  act  of  administering  to  the  wants  of  a  little 
one;  an  open  countenanced  dog  is  near,  as  if  waiting  to  re- 
lieve the  child,  a  senora  is  shelling  corn,  and  a  hog  is  looking 
on,  one  foot  raised,  in  readiness  to  obey  the  first  summons. 

The  people  dress,  as  in  Chagres,  with  the  addition,  in  some 
cases,  of  half  a  yard  of  linen  and  a  string  of  beads.  The  Al- 
calde and  his  lady  were  generally  well  dressed ;  but,  as  strange 
as  it  may  appear,  they  were  always  accompanied  in  their  morn- 
ing walks  by  their  son,  a  lad  of  fourteen,  his  entire  costume  con- 
sisting of  a  Panama  hat.  In  the  evening  of  the  day  of  our 
arrival,  we  observed  our  worthy  boatman  making  himself 
familiar  around  the  American  tents.  Soon  the  police  were  on 
the  alert,  and  we  were  informed  that  he  was  one  of  the  most 
notorious  thieves  in  the  country.  He  had  landed  back,  think- 
ing it  safer  to  come  into  town  at  night.  We  had  our  baggage 
carried  up,  and  were  soon  residents  of  the  American  part  of  the 
town.  I  was  here  put  in  possession  of  facts  which  strengthened 
my  suspicions  of  the  individual  who  passed  down  the  river  on 
the  previous  night ;  and,  in  the  sequel,  instead  of  returning  to 
Gorgona,  he,  on  his  arrival  at  Chagres,  hired  a  native  to  carry 


28  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

him  to  a  vessel  that  was  about  to  sail  for  New  Orleans,  and  in 
attempting  to  climb  on  board  he  missed  his  footing,  fell  into  the 
water  and  was  drowned.  His  hat  came  to  the  surface,  but  bis 
body  was  never  recovered. 

There  was,  at  this  time,  no  means  of  conveyance  from  Pana- 
ma to  San  Francisco,  and  people  preferred  remaining,  and  con- 
suming their  provisions  in  Gorgona,  to  paying  exorbitant  prices 
to  have  it  transported  to  Panama.  After  remaining  some  days 
I  purchased  a  horse,  and  started  for  Panama,  twenty-five  miles 
distant. 

It  is  a  pleasant  ride  across,  being  a  succession  of  mountains 
and  valleys,  each  valley  containing  a  spring-brook  of  the  purest 
water.  Two  miles  out  of  Gorgona  you  enter  a  mule  path  run- 
ning throiigh  a  dense  forest,  the  branches  interchanging  over- 
head, forming  an  arbor  sufficiently  dense  to  exclude  the  sun. 
You  sometimes  pass  through  gullies  in  the  side  of  the  mountain^ 
sufficiently  wide  at  the  bottom  to  admit  the  mule  and  his  rider, 
and  looking  up,  you  find  yourself  in  a  chasm  with  perpendicu- 
lar sides,  twenty  feet  in  depth,  into  which  the  sun  has  never 
shone.  Here,  as  in  all  Spanish  countries,  are  numerous  crosses, 
marking  the  resting-place  of  the  assassin's  victim.  "When  with- 
in three  miles,  the  country  opens,  disclosing  to  the  view  the 
towers  of  the  cathedral,  indicating  the  location  of  Panama.  The 
balance  of  the  road  is  paved  with  cobble  stones,  the  work  of 
convicts,  who  are  brought  out  in  chain-gangs.  One  mile  out, 
you  cross  the  national  bridge,  a  stone  structure  of  one  arch  ; 
here  is  also  an  extensive  missionary  establishment,  now  in  ruins. 
When  within  half  a  mile  of  the  wall  of  the  city,  you  pass  a 
stone  tower,  surmounted  by  a  cross.  You  are  now  in  the  sub- 
urbs of  the  city.  The  street  is  paved,  and  on  either  side  are 
ruins,  some  of  considerable  extent,  having  been  costly  resi- 
dences, with  highly  cultivated  gardens  attached.  You  pass  a  pla- 
za, on  one  side  of  which  is  an  extensive  church.  You  now  enter 
between  two  walls,  which  gradually  increase  in  height,  as  you 
approach  the  gate,  until,  crossing  a  deep  naoat  which  surrounds 
the  city,  they  are  joined  to  the  main  wall. 

On  entering  the  gate  the  first  thing  that  presents  itself  is  a 
chapel,  where  you  are  expected  to  return  thanks  for  your  safe 
arrival.     I  rode  through,  put  my  horse  in  the  court-yard  of  the 


A  WEALTHY  LADY  IN    "BLOOMER."  29 

"Washington  House,"  took  supper,  surveyed  the  town,  and 
retired.  At  about  three  in  the  morning,  I  was  aroused  by  a 
strange  noise.  On  going  to  the  window  I  saw  a  procession  of 
nuns  and  priests  passing  through  the  street,  escorted  by  a  band 
of  music.  They  presented  a  strange  appearance.  The  priests 
were  dressed  in  black  robes  and  tights,  wearing  black  hats  with 
broad  brims,  rolled  up  and  fastened  to  the  crown ;  the  nuns, 
with  white  scarfs  passing  over  the  head  and  sweeping  the 
ground,  each  carried  a  lighted  taper,  presenting  the  appearance 
of  a  procession  of  ghosts.  They  would  all  join  in  chanting  some 
wild  air,  when  the  band  would  play  the  chorus.  Nothing  could 
be  more  impressive  than  such  a  scene  as  this.  Aroused  from 
sleep  at  the  dead  of  night,  by  such  wild  strains,  uttered  in  such 
impassioned  tones,  as  if  pleading  for  mercy  at  the  very  gates  of 
despair.  They  seemed  like  doomed  spirits,  wandering  about 
without  a  guiding  star,  under  the  ban  of  excommunication. 

I  rose  early  in  the  morning,  bathed  in  the  Pacific,  and  after 
breakfast  mounted  for  Gorgona,  where  I  arrived  in  the  evening. 
I  went  to  a  rancJio,  half  a  mile  distant,  for  sugar-cane  for  my 
horse.  I  was  waited  upon  by  the  proprietress  who  accompanied 
me  to  the  cane-field,  and  used  the  machet  with  her  own  hands. 
After  cutting  a  supply  for  the  horse,  she  presented  me  with  a 
piece  for  my  own  use,  which  I  found  extremely  palatable.  This 
lady  is  one  of  the  most  extensive  landholders  in  jSTew  Grenada, 
and  one  of  the  most  wealthy.  She  lived  in  a  thatched  hovel, 
the  sides  entirely  open,  with  the  earth  for  a  floor.  Her  husband 
was  entirely  naked,  and  seemed  to  devote  his  attention  to  the 
care  of  the  children,  of  whom  there  were  not  less  than  a  dozen, 
all  dressed  like  "Pa."  She  dressed  in  "Bloomer,"  i.  e.,  she 
wore  a  half-yard  of  linen,  and  a  palm-leaf  hat.  My  horse  was 
stolen  during  the  night.  I  went  to  the  Alcalde  next  morning, 
offered' l^m  $5  reward,  and  before  night  I  was  obliged  to  invest 
another  real  in  sugar-cane  for  my  worth}^  animal.  Money  here 
is  a  much  more  effectual  searcher  than  eyes,  particularly  for 
stolen  horses. 

After  remaining  a  few  days  I  again  started  for  Panama.  It 
was  after  noon,  and  after  riding  some  distance  my  horse  was 
taken  sick.  I  stopped  until  evening,  when  I  again  mounted, 
but  was  soon  obliged  to  dismount  and  prepare  for  spending  t> 


80  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

night  in  the  woods.  It  was  quite  dark,  and  as  I  was  taking  the 
saddle  off  my  horse  five  very  suspicious-looking  natives  came 
up,  and  were  disposed  to  be  inquisitive.  To  rid  myself  of  them, 
I  told  them  I  expected  a  "companiero."  They  left  with  appar- 
ent reluctance.  After  kindling  the  fire,  fearing  they  might  re- 
new their  visit,  I  put  caps  on  my  revolver,  preparatory  to  load- 
ing it.  As  I  was  in  the  act  of  so  doing  my  horse  startled,  looked 
wildly  about,  and,  in  a  moment,  I  heard  footsteps  approaching. 
As  they  drew  near,  I  thought  they  were  in  boots,  and  conse- 
quently Americans.  I  cried  out, ''Americano?"'  They  immedi- 
ately called  my  name.  My  surprise  and  pleasure  can  well  be 
imagined  as  I  recognized  the  voices  of  the  Dodges,  Shultz, 
Eiswald,  and  Hush. 

After  mutual  congratulations  we  prepared  supper,  and  were 
soon  seated  around  the  fire,  recalling  the  incidents  of  our  voyage 
up  the  river.  The  elder  Dodge  was  lying  on  a  trunk  near  the 
fire,  and  late  in  the  evening,  as  the  muleteer  was  attempting  to 
drive  the  horses  back,  one  of  them  took  fright,  wheeled  about, 
and  in  attempting  to  jump  over  the  trunk,  his  forefeet  came  in 
contact  with  Dodge,  knocking  him  off,  and  planting  his  hind 
feet  into  his  back.  We  were  struck  with  horror,  supposing  him 
dead,  but  after  straightening  him  up,  and  washing  his  face  and 
head,  he  was  able  to  speak.  He  was  still  in  a  critical  condition, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  attend  him  during  the  night.  The  next 
morning,  after  a  long  hunt  for  our  horses,  we  rode  a  short  dis- 
tance to  an  American  tent,  and  leaving  the  Dodges  and  com- 
pany, I  rode  on  to  Panama.  The  next  day  Mr.  Dodge  ar- 
rived, in  a  very  feeble  state  of  health,  but  eventually  recovered. 

In  a  few  days  I  returned  lo  Grorgona,  and  sold  the  "Minerva." 
She  was  drawn  up  into  town,  inverted,  making  the  roof  of  the 
*' United  States  Hotel,''  the  first  framed  building  erected  in  Gor- 
gona.  On  my  way  back  to  Panama,  as  I  had  got  about  half  way 
through,  I  was  surprised  at  meeting  Mr.  Hush.  He  informed 
me  that  he  did  not  think  Panama  a  healthy  place,  and  that  he 
was  on  his  return  to  the  States.  He  sat  on  his  horse  with  a 
good  deal  of  ease,  his  feet  appearing  to  have  on  their  best  be- 
havior. He  could  not  get  them  into  the  stirrups,  stiU  they 
appeared  to  go  quietly  along  by  the  sides  of  the  horse.  Why 
he  thought  Panama  unhealthy,  was  a  mystery  to  some.     I  am 


A  MOUNTAIN  PASS  AT  NIGHT.  81 

not  prepared  to  say  that  his  party  ever  insinuated  anything  of 
the  kind.  In  the  after  part  of  the  day,  I  was  overtaken  by  Maj. 
Sewall,  lady,  and  suite.  They  descended  the  mountain,  and  as 
they  were  about  to  cross  the  brook  at  its  base,  Capt.  Tyler,  one 
of  the  party,  dismounted,  and  as  he  was  crossing  over,  a  double- 
barrelled  gun  accidentally  discharged  within  four  feet  of  him,  he 
receiving  the  entire  charge  in  his  hip.  This  caused  the  greatest 
consternation.  The  Capt.  having  Mrs.  Sewall's  child  in  his 
arms,  it  was  feared  it  had  received  a  part  of  the  charge.  This 
fortunately  did  not  prove  to  be  the  case.  The  Capt.  was  imme- 
diately stripped,  the  wound  dressed,  and  through  the  kind 
assistance  of  the  Engineering  corps  of  the  Panama  Railroad, 
who  were  encamped  near,  a  litter  was  constructed,  and  he  was 
taken  through  to  Panama  on  the  shoulders  of  the  natives, 

I  was  detained  until  the  sun  had  disappeared  behind  the 
mountain,  and  it  was  with  some  difficulty  my  horse  found  his 
way.  I  ascended  the  next  mountain,  and  in  attempting  to 
descend,  lost  mj  way.  I  dismounted,  and  after  a  long  search, 
found  the  gully  through  which  it  was  necessary  to  pass.  There 
was  not  a  ray  of  light — it  was  the  very  blackness  of  darkness — 
and  on  arriving  at  the  end  of  the  gully,  I  was  again  obliged  to 
dismount,  and  after  groping  about  for  half  an  hour,  found  what 
I  presumed  to  be  the  path.  My  horse  was  of  a  different 
opinion.  The  matter  was  discussed — I  carried  the  "point." 
After  riding  a  short  distance,  he  stopped,  and  on  examining  the 
path,  I  found  that  it  dropped  abruptly  into  a  chasm  twenty 
feet  in  depth.  My  horse  now  refused  to  move  in  any  direction, 
which  left  no  alternative  but  to  encamp.  I  succeeded  in  find- 
ing canebrake,  which  I  cut  for  him,  and  spreading  out  my 
India  rubber  blanket,  using  my  saddle  as  a  pillow,  I  stretched 
myself  out  for  the  night.  A  most  profound  stillness  reigned 
through  the  forest.  All  nature  seemed  to  be  hushed  in  sleep. 
Occasionally  a  limb  would  crack,  struggling  with  the  weight  of 
its  own  foliage,  and  once,  not  far  distant,  a  gigantic  tree,  a 
patriarch  of  the  forest,  came  thundering  to  the  ground.  A  slight 
breeze  passed  mournfully  by,  as  if  sighing  its  requiem,  and  again 
all  was  still. 

This  solemnity  was  painfully  ominous.  There  appeared  to  be 
something  foreboding  in  the  very  solemnity  that  reigned.     If 


32  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

I  ever  realized  the  companionsliip  of  a  horse,  it  was  on  this 
occasion ;  and  I  believe  it  was  reciprocal,  for  when  I  would 
speak  to  him,  he  would  neigh,  and  seem  to  say,  "  I  love  you, 
too." 

In  the  middle  of  the  night  I  was  attracted  by  the  barking  of 
a  monkey,  which  very  much  resembled  that  of  a  dog.  This 
called  to  mind  home,  and  caused  many  a  bright  fancy  to  flit 
through  my  imagination.  I  was  soon,  however,  drawn  from 
my  reverie  by  the  low  muttering  of  distant  thunder,  portending 
an  approaching  deluge,  which,  in  this  climate,  invariably  fol- 
lows. It  grew  near,  and  was  accompanied  by  the  most  vivid 
flashes  of  lightning.  This  revealed  to  me  my  situation.  I  was 
on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  at  the  base  of  an  almost  perpen- 
dicular elevation,  which  was  furrowed  by  deep  gullies,  giving 
fearful  token  of  approaching  devastation.  Very  near  was  a 
gigantic  palm-tree,  the  earth  on  the  lower  side  of  which  appeared 
to  have  been  protected  by  it.  I  removed  my  saddle  and  blanket, 
and  my  horse,  asking  to  accompany  me,  was  tied  near.  The 
lightning  grew  more  vivid,  and  the  thunder,  as  peal  succeeded 
peal,  caused  the  very  mountains  to  quake.  The  clouds,  coming 
in  contact  with  the  peaks,  instantaneously  discharged  the  deluge, 
which,  rushing  down,  carried  devastation  in  its  track.  The 
sight  was  most  terrific.  By  the  incessant  flashes  I  could  see  the 
torrents  rushing  down,  chafing,  foaming,  and  lashing  the  sides 
of  the  mountains,  as  if  the  furies  were  trying  to  vie  with  each 
other  in  madness.  In  an  hour  the  rage  of  the  elements  had 
ceased,  the  thunder  muttering  a  last  adieu,  fell  back  to  his  hid- 
ing place,  and  again  all  was  still.  My  blanket  had  protected 
me  from  the  rain ;  and  if  I  am  ever  on  a  committee  to  award 
premiums  for  valuable  inventions,  Mr.  Goodyear  will  be  at  the 
head  of  my  list.  I  slept  until  morning,  when  I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  viewing  the  devastation  of  the  night.  I  mounted,  and 
at  10  o'clock  arrived  at  Panama. 


C!io|itn  $tntul^. 


PANAMA — CATHEDRAL    AND    CONTENTS — ^RELIGIOUS     CEBEMONIES — AMALGAMATION — FAN- 
DANGO. 

Panama,  under  tlie  Spanish  dominion,  was  a  city  of  twelve 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  was  the  commercial  mart  of  the 
Pacific.  The  old  city  having  been  destroyed  by  buccaneers, 
the  present  site  was  selected.  The  military  strength  of  the  city 
is  a  true  index  to  the  state  of  the  country  at  the  time  of  its  con- 
struction ;  and  its  present  condition  a  lamentable  commentary  on 
the  ruthless  spirit  that  has  pervaded  the  countries  of  South 
America.  The  number  and  extent  of  the  churches  and  monas- 
teries are  a  monument  to  the  indomitable  zeal  and  perseverance 
for  which  the  Catholic  Church  has  been  justly  celebrated.  Old 
Panama  is  seven  miles  distant.  An  ivy -grown  tower  is  all  that 
remains  to  mark  the  spot.  The  city  is  inclosed  by  a  wall  of 
much  strength,  outside  of  which  is  a  deep  moat.  It  has  one 
main  and  one  side  entrance  by  land,  and  several  on  the  water- 
side. The  base  of  the  wall  on  the  water-side  is  washed  by  the 
ocean  at  flood  tide,  but  at  the  ebb  the  water  recedes  a  mile, 
leaving  the  rocks  quite  bare.  There  was  formerly  a  long  line 
of  fortifications,  but  at  present  the  guns  are  dismounted,  except- 
ing on  an  elbow  of  the  wall,  called  the  "  battery."  (See  Plate.) 
In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the  main  plaza,  fronting  which  is 
the  cathedral,  the  government  house,  and  the  prison.  (See  Plate.) 
Here  is  seen  a  "Padre,"  walking  with  a  senorita;  an  "hombre," 
mounted  on  a  donkey,  with  a  large  stone  jar  on  each  side,  from 
which  he  serves  his  customers  with  water  ;  a  "  chain-gang  "  of 
prisoners,  carrying  bales  of  carna,  guarded  by  a  barefooted 
soldier.  And  still  further  to  the  left  is  a  sentinel  watching  the 
prison.  I  will  here  state,  that  most  of  the  Panama  hats  that  are 
made  here,  are  manufactured  in  this  prison. 
3 


84  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

The  principal  avenues,  running  parallel,  are  ''  Calle  San  Juan 
de  Dio,"  "Calle  de  Merced,"  and  "Calle  de  Obispo."  There 
are  numerous  extensive  churches,  the  principal  one  being  the 
cathedral.  This  is  a  magnificent  structure,  and  of  colossal 
dimensions.  In  the  end  fronting  the  plaza  are  niches,  in  which 
are  life-size  statues  of  the  twelve  Apostles,  of  marble.  It  has 
two  towers,  the  upper  sections  of  which  are  finished  with  pearl. 
The  interior  was  furnished  without  regard  to  expense.  It  is  now 
somewhat  dilapidated,  but  still  has  a  fine  organ.  The  convent, 
"La  Mugher,"is  an  extensive  edifice,  being  300 feet  in  length. 
The  roof  of  most  parts  has  fallen  in,  and  the  walls  are  fast  falling 
to  decay.  The  only  tenant  is  a  colored  woman  who  has  a  ham- 
mock slung  in  the  main  entrance.  She  has  converted  the  con- 
vent into  a  stable,  charging  a  real  a  night  for  a  horse  or  mule 
— they  board  themselves ;  they,  however,  have  the  privilege 
of  selecting  their  own  apartments.  It  encloses  a  large  court,  in 
which  there  are  two  immense  wells,  and  numerous  fig,  and 
other  fruit  trees.  There  is  a  tower  still  standing  on  one  end  of 
the  building,  without  roof  or  window  ;  it  has,  however,  several 
bells  still  hanging.  The  convent  of  "  San  Francisco,"  is  also  an 
extensive  structure,  in  a  dilapidated  state ;  one  part  of  it  is  still 
tenanted  by  nuns.  It  has  a  tower  with  bells  still  hanging. 
These  buildings,  as  well  as  all  the  buildings  of  Panama,  are  in- 
fested by  innumerable  lizards,  a  peculiarity  of  the  city  that  first 
strikes  the  stranger.  They  are  harmless,  but  to  one  unaccus- 
tomed to  seeing  them,  are  an  unpleasant  sight. 

The  people  here,  as  in  all  catholic  countries,  are  very  attentive 
to  religious  rites  and  ceremonies,  and  almost  every  day  of  the 
week  is  ushered  in  by  the  ringing  of  church  and  convent  bells. 
The  ringing  is  constant  during  the  day ;  and  people  are  seen 
passing  to  and  from  church,  the  more  wealthy  classes  accompanied 
by  their  servants,  bearing  mats,  upon  which  they  kneel  on  their 
arrival.  Almost  every  day  is  a  saint's  day,  when  all  business 
is  suspended  to  attend  its  celebration. 

Good  Friday  is  the  most  important  on  the  calendar.  All 
business  is  suspended,  all  attend  church  during  the  day,  and  at 
night  they  congregate  en  masse  in  the  plaza  in  front  of  one 
of  the  churches  outside  the  walls.  Inside  the  church,  held  by 
a  native  ii\  Turkish  costume,  is  an  ass,  mounted  on  which  is  a 


2       < 

»    Q 

^      LU 


< 

o 


RELIGIOUS   CEREMONIES.  85 

life-size  wax  figure  of  the  Saviour.  There  are  also  life-size 
figures  of  Mary,  St.  Peter,  St.  Paul,  and  St.  John,  each  mounted 
on  a  car,  and  each  car  illuminated  by  one  hundred  tapers,  which 
are  set  in  candelabras  of  silver,  and  borne  by  sixteen  men.  In- 
cense is  burned,  a  chant  is  sung  accompanied  by  the  organ,  and 
at  the  ringing  of  a  small  bell,  all  rise  from  their  knees  ;  the  bell 
rings  again,  and  the  procession  moves.  The  ass  is  first  led  out, 
followed  by  the  figures  of  Mary  and  the  Apostles  in  order ; 
next,  the  band  of  music  and  the  procession  follows,  which  is 
illuminated  by  innumerable  tapers.  They  move  toward  the 
main  gate,  all  joining  in  the  chant.  The  passage  of  the  first  of 
the  procession  through  the  gate,  is  announced  by  the  simultan- 
eous discharge  of  rockets  which  illumine  the  very  heavens. 
The  discharging  of  rockets  is  continued,  and,  after  passing 
through  the  principal  streets,  they  return  to  the  church  and  de- 
posit the  images.  They  again  return  to  the  city,  seize  an  e^gj 
of  Judas  Iscariot  and  after  hanging  it  up  by  the  neck,  cut  it 
down  and  burn  it.  The  celebration  closes  with  the  usual 
night  procession  of  nuns  and  priests.  These  celebrations  and 
processions  are  conducted  with  the  greatest  solemnity,  the  peo- 
ple all  engaging  in  them  as  if  they  thought  them  indispensable 
to  salvation. 

The  priests  are  quite  ultra  in  their  dress,  wearing  a  black  silk 
gown,  falling  below  the  knee,  black  silk  tights,  patent-leather 
shoes,  fastened  with  immense  silver  buckles,  a  black  hat,  the 
brim  of  the  most  ungovernable  dimensions,  rolled  up  at  the 
sides  and  fastened  on  the  top  of  the  crown.  Their  zeal  in  relig- 
ion is  equalled  only  by  their  passion  for  gaming  and  cock-fight- 
ing. It  appears  strange  to  see  men  of  their  holy  calling  enter 
the  ring  with  a  cock  under  each  arm,  gafted  for  the  sanguinary 
conflict,  and,  when  the  result  is  doubtfal,  enter  into  a  most  un- 
liarmonious  wrangle,  with  the  faithful  under  their  charge. 

The  citizens  of  Panama  are  composed  of  all  grades  of  color, 
from  the  pure  Sambo,  (former  slaves  or  their  descendants,)  to  the 
pure  Castilian.  The  distinctive  lines  of  society  are  not  very 
tightly  drawn.  At  the  fandangoes  all  colors  are  represented,  and 
a  descendant  of  Spain  will  select,  as  a  partner,  one  of  the  deepest 
dye.  In  this  hot  climate  the  waltz  or  quadrille  soon  throws  all 
parties  into  a  most  profuse  perspiration,  which  causes  that  other 


S6  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

characteristic  of  the  African  race  to  manifest  itself.  I  wonld 
recommend  mj  American  friends  to  select  partners  of  the  lighter 
color,  as  I  am  not  prepared  to  say  the  odor  is  altogether  pleasant. 
The  order  of  the  evening  is  to  fill  the  floor ;  the  music  and 
dance  commence;  when  a  gentleman  gives  out,  another  takes 
his  partner,  and  so  on,  until  it  is  time  for  refreshments.  The 
ladies  never  tire. 


Ctiaptfr  Cigjitji. 


BAY  OP  PANAMA— ISLANDS— SOLDIERS — ARRIVAL  OF  $1,000,000  IN  GOLD  AND  SILVER— A 
CONDUCTA — "buncoes"  "  UP"  FOR  CALIFORNIA — WALL  STREET  REPRESENTED — SAIL 
FOR  SAN  FRANCISCO — CHIMBOBAZO — CROSS  THE  EQUATOR — A  CALM — A  DEATH  AT  SEA. 

In  the  bay  of  Panama  (called  the  "  Pearl  Archipelago,"  from 
the  numerous  pearls  obtained  in  its  waters,)  there  are  innumer- 
able islands,  all  of  great  fertility,  supplying  the  city  with  vege- 
tables, tropical  fruits,  eggs,  fowls,  &c.  (See  Plate.)  It  is  from 
these  islands  vessels  are  supplied  with  provisions  and  water, 
the  latter  being  obtained  at  Toboga,  one  of  the  largest  of  the 
group.  A  more  enchanting  scene  than  is  presented  from  the 
higher  points  of  these  islands,  cannot  be  imagined.  The  bay 
as  placid  as  a  mirror,  Panama  in  full  view,  with  mountains  ris- 
ing in  the  background.  Looking  along  down  the  coast  of 
South  America,  you  see  a  succession  of  lofty  mountains,  some 
by  their  conical  peaks  proclaiming  their  volcanic  origin,  some 
still  clouded  in  smoke,  giving  token  of  ihe  fierce  struggle  that  is 
going  on  within.  Still  farther  to  the  right  the  bay  opens  into 
the  broad  Pacific ;  that  little  ripple  that  is  now  running  out, 
will  go  on  gathering  strength,  until  it  breaks  upon  the  shores 
of  the  "  Celestial  Empire."  Still  farther  to  the  right,  a  tower, 
shrouded  in  ivy,  seems  weeping  over  the  tomb  of  a  city. 

In  the  background  mountain  succeeds  mountain,  until  the 
last  is  buried  in  clouds.  Ships  and  steamers  are  lying  quietly 
at  anchor ;  numerous  islands  are  blooming  at  your  feet, 
clothed  with  tropical  fruits,  growing  and  ripening  spontaneously. 
Nature  reigns  supreme,  the  hand  of  man  has  not  marred  her 
perfection ;  if  his  rude  habitation  is  sometimes  seen,  it  is  nest- 
ling quietly  in  the  bosom  of  some  grove  planted  by  the  hand 
of  Nature,  interlaced  by  vines,  their  tendrils  entwining,  form- 
ing an  arbor  over  his  head,  and  presenting  fruit  and  wine  at 


38  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

his  door.  It  seems  a  paradise.  It  would  seem  that  man  might 
be  happy  here.  He  has  not  to  care  for  to-morrow,  but  to  par- 
take of  the  bounties  of  nature  as  they  are  presented.  But, 
alas !  man  spends  his  life  struggling  for  the  thousand  phantasies 
his  own  diseased  imagination  has  engendered,  while  nature 
has  placed  happiness  within  his  reach,  and  only  asks  content- 
ment on  the  part  of  the  recipient  of  her  bounties. 

The  markets  of  Panama,  as  well  as  the  retail  trade  in 
other  departments,  are  under  the  supervision  of  females.  They 
are  generally  well  supplied  with  every  variety  of  fruit  from 
the  islands,  together  with  eggs,  fowls,  kc.  The  beef  and  pork 
are  sold  by  the  yard.  Beef  is  cut  in  thin  strips  and  dried  in 
the  sun;  this  is  packed  or  sewed  up  in  skins,  and  is  an  article 
of  export  from  many  of  the  South  American  Eepublics.  The 
inhabitants  have  a  great  passion  for  "fighting-cocks."  There 
is  not  a  house  that  is  not  furnished  with  from  one  to  a  dozen. 
They  generally  occupy  the  best  aparments,  and,  on  entering 
a  house,  your  first  salutation  is  from  "chanticleer,"  he  having 
a  strange  propensity  to  do  the  loud  talking.  They  also 
venerate  the  turkey-buzzard,  with  which  the  city  is  sometimes 
clouded.  They  are  the  carrion  bird  of  the  south,  and  no 
doubt  good  in  their  place,  but  the  most  loathsome  of  all  the 
feathered  tribe. 

The  citizens  of  Panama,  as  well  as  of  other  tropical  countries, 
have  the  happy  faculty  of  devoting  most  of  their  time  to  the 
pursuit  of  pleasure,  i.e.,  they  divide  time  between  business  and 
pleasure,  giving  to  the  latter  a  great  predominance.  Before 
the  innovations  made  by  "los  Americanos,"  stores  were  open 
from  9  to  10  A.  M.,  and  4  to  5  P.  M.,  the  balance  of  the  day 
was  spent  in  smoking,  drinking  coffee,  chocolate,  or  cocoa,  gam- 
bling, cock-fighting,  attending  church,  or  wooing  sleep  in  ham- 
mocks. The  city  is  generally  healthy,  yet  at  some  seasons  of 
the  year,  is  subject  to  fevers  of  a  malignant  type.  It  has  been 
visited  several  times  by  that  scourge  the  cholera,  which  swept 
off  many  of  its  inhabitants,  and,  at  one  time,  seemed  destined 
to  depopulate  the  country.  The  priests  clad  themselves  in 
sackcloth,  and  devoted  every  moment  to  the  rites  of  the  church, 
burning  incense  and  invoking  the  patron  saint  of  the  city  to 
stay  the  ravages  of  the  disease.     The  vaults  in  which  the  dead 


A   CONDUCTA.  39 

are  deposited,  are  a  succession  of  arches  in  mason-work,  resem- 
bling large  ovens.  When  one  of  these  is  full  it  is  closed  up, 
and  the  adjoining  one  filled. 

The  city  has  a  small  garrison  of  soldiers,  their  only  duty  being 
to  guard  the  prison,  and  conduct  prisoners  out  in  chain-gangs 
to  labor,  paving  the  streets,  repairing  the  walls,  carrying 
goods,  &c.  A  gang  will  be  seen  in  front  of  the  cathedral,  in 
the  accompanying  plate.  The  appearance  of  the  under-offi.- 
cers,  is  ludicrous  in  the  extreme.  They  are  seen  parading  the 
streets  with  an  air  of  authority,  in  full  uniform,  and  barefooted. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  at  Panama,  one  of  the  British  steamers 
came  in  from  Valparaiso  with  $1,000,000  in  gold  and  silver. 
This  was  deposited  in  front  of  the  custom-house,  and  guarded 
during  the  night  by  soldiers ;  and,  in*  the  morning,  packed  on 
mules,  preparatory  to  crossing  the  Isthmus.  It  required  thirty- 
nine  mules  to  effect  the  transportation.  A  detachment  of  nine 
first  started,  driven  by  a  single  soldier,  armed  with  a  musket,  and 
barefooted.  The  second,  third,  and  fourth  detachments  started 
at  intervals  of  half  an  hour,  each  guarded  like  the  first.  The 
mules  were  driven  in  droves,  without  bridle  or  halter.  The  route 
being  through  an  unbroken  forest  of  twenty -five  miles,  it  would 
seem  a  very  easy  matter  to  rob  the  "  conducta."  But,  strange  to 
say,  although  $1,000,000  per  month,  for  several  years,  has  passed 
over  the  route,  no  such  attempt  has  ever  been  made.  In  the  im- 
mediate vicinity,  and  overlooking  the  city,  is  a  mountain  called 
"Cerro  Lancon,"  which  was  once  fortified  by  an  invading  foe, 
from  which  the  city  was  bombarded  and  taken.  On  the  summit 
a  staff  is  now  seen,  from  which  the  stars  and  stripes  float  proudly 
in  the  breeze.  This  was  erected  by  the  Panama  Kailroad  Com- 
pany, to  point  out,  during  the  survey,  the  location  of  the  city. 

Great  anxiety  was  felt  by  the  Americans  at  Panama  to  pro- 
ceed on  to  California.  The  sun  had  passed  overhead,  and  was 
settling  in  the  north,  indicating  the  approach  of  the  rainy  sea- 
son. Many  were  sick  of  the  fever,  many  had  died,  which 
added  to  the  general  anxiety.  Many  had  procured  steamer 
tickets  before  leaving  home.  The  steamers  had  passed  down  to 
San  Francisco,  been  deserted  by  their  crews,  and  were  unable 
to  return,  and  there  were  no  seaworthy  vessels  in  port.  The  in- 
domitable go-a-head-ativeness  of  the  Yankee  nation  could  not 


40  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

remain  dormant,  and  soon  several  "bungoes"  were  "up"  for 
California.  Schooners  of  from  thirteen  to  twenty-five  tons, 
that  had  been  abandoned  as  worthless,  were  soon  galvanized, 
by  pen  and  type,  into  "^Ae  new  and  fast  sailing  schooner  ^  These 
were  immediately  filled  up  at  from  $200  to  $300  per  ticket, 
passengers  finding  themselves.  In  the  anxiety  to  get  off,  a 
party  purchased  an  iron  boat  on  the  Chagres  Eiver,  carried  it 
across  to  Panama  on  their  shoulders,  fitted  it  out,  and  sailed 
for  California.  The  first  "  bungo"  that  sailed,  after  getting  out 
into  the  bay  some  three  or  four  miles,  was  struck  by  a  slight 
flaw  of  wind,  dismasted,  and  obliged  to  put  back  for  repairs. 
This  caused  a  very  perceptible  decline  in  "bungo"  stocks. 
Many  took  passage  in  the  British  steamer  for  Valparaiso,  in 
hopes  to  find  conveyance  from  that  port.  The  passengers  of 
one  of  "  the  fast  sailing  schooners''''  when  going  on  board,  prepar- 
atory to  sailing,  found  that  the  o^^mers,  in  their  zeal  to  accom- 
modate their  countrymen^  had  sold  about  three  times  as  many 
tickets  as  said  vessel  would  carry.  Instead  of  allowing  fourteen 
square  feet  to  the  man,  as  the  law  requires,  they  appear  to  have 
taken  the  exact-dimensions  of  the  passengers,  and  filled  the  vessel 
accordingly.  The  passengers  refused  to  let  the  captain  weigh 
anchor,  and  sent  a  deputation  on  shore  to  demand  the  return  of 
their  money;  but  lo!  the  disinterested  gentlemen  were  "non 
est  inventus."  After  a  long  search,  they  succeeded  in  finding 
one  of  the  worthies,  and  notwithstanding  his  disinterested  efforts 
in  behalf  of  the  public,  he  was  locked  up.  The  captain  fearing 
personal  violence,  left  the  vessel  privately,  and  for  several  days 
was  nowhere  to  be  found.  The  passengers,  however,  entered 
into  a  compromise  with  themselves,  the  first  on  the  list  going 
on  board.  The  mate  informed  the  captain  and  they  were  soon 
under  way.  The  owner,  who  had  been  so  persecutingly  locked 
up,  having  formerly  been  an  operator  in  Wall  street,  resolved 
to  slight  the  hospitalities  of  the  city,  and  took  his  leave  when  . 
the  barefooted  sentinel  wasn't  looking. 

One  circumstance  that  added  much  to  the  annoyance  of  our  de- 
tention was,  that  the  letters  from  our  friends  were  all  directed  to 
San  Francisco,  and  were  then  lying  in  the  letter-bags  at  Pa- 
nama, but  not  accessible  to  us.  I  felt  this  annoyance  most  sensi- 
bly.    I  would  have  given  almost  any  price  for  one  word  of 


'   FOR   CALIFORNIA.  41 

intelligence  from  home.  On  returning  one  evening  from  Gor- 
gona  I  was  informed  by  Mr.  Pratt,  my  room-mate,  that  a  gen- 
tleman had  called  during  my  absence  with  a  letter.  I  left  the 
supper  table  to  go  in  search  of  him ;  some  one  knocked  at  the 
door ;  and  imagine  my  surprise  and  pleasure  as  Mr.  D.  Tremb- 
ley,  an  old  acquaintance  from  New  Yorlc  was  ushered  into 
the  room.  He  had  letters  for  me  dated  two  months  subse- 
quent to  my  departure.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  brother, 
and  I  had  the  pleasure  of  making  the  passage  up  the  Pacific 
in  their  company. 

The  prospect,  at  this  time,  of  getting  passage  to  California 
was  extremely  doubtful,  and  many  returned  to  the  States.  Dur- 
ing the  latter  part  of  April,  however,  several  vessels  arrived 
in  port,  and  were  ''put  up"  for  San  Francisco.  I  had  sent  to 
New  York  for  a  steamer  ticket — which  was  due,  but  there  being 
no  steamer  in  port,  and  being  attacked  with  the  fever,  I  was 
advised  to  leave  at  the  earliest  possible  moment.  I  secured 
passage  in  the  ship  "Niantic,"  which  was  to  sail  on  the  1st  of 
May.  On  the  morning  of  that  day  bungoes  commenced  plying 
between  the  shore  and  ship,  which  was  at  anchor  some  five 
miles  out,  and  at  4  P.  M.,  all  the  passengers  were  on  board. 
The  captain  was  still  on  shore,  and  there  was  an  intense  anx- 
iety manifested.  Many  had  come  on  board  in  feeble  health ; 
some  who  had  purchased  tickets  had  died  on  shore ;  many  on 
board  were  so  feeble  that  they  were  not  expected  to  live.  I 
was  one  of  the  number;  we  all  felt  that  getting  to  sea  was  our 
only  hope,  and  all  eyes  were  turned  toward  shore,  fearing  the 
captain  might  be  detained.  At  half-past  five  his  boat  shoved 
off,  when  all  on  board  were  electrified.  As  he  neared  the  ship 
all  who  were  able  prepared  to  greet  him,  and  some,  whose 
lungs  had  been  considered  in  a  feeble  and  even  precarious  state, 
burst  out  into  the  most  vociferous  acclamations.  The  captain 
mounted  the  quarter-deck  and  sung  out,  "  Heave  ahead,"  when 
the  clanking  of  the  chain  and  windlass  denoted  that  our  anchor 
was  being  drawn  from  its  bed.  At  half-past  six  the  "Niantic" 
swung  from  her  moorings,  and  was  headed  for  the  mouth  of 
the  "  Gulf  of  Panama."  Again  the  shouts  were  deafening.  'No 
reasonable  politician  could  have  wished  a  greater  display  of 
enthusiasm,  and  a  nominee  would  consider  his  election  quite 


42  CALIFORXIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

certain,  whose  pretensions  were  backed  up  by  two  hundred  and 
forty  pairs  of  such  lungs.  We  had  a  light  breeze  and  moored 
slowly  out — the  lights  of  the  city  gradually  settling  below  the 
horizon.  As  we  passed  the  islands  an  occasional  light  would 
appear  and  immediately  vanish.  Soon  all  nature  was  shrouded 
in  darkness,  and  with  the  exception  of  an  occasional  creaking 
of  the  wheel,  and  a  slight  ripple  at  the  prow,  everything  was 
still. 

In  the  morning  we  were  running  down  along  the  coast  of 
South  America,  the  captain  wishing  to  cross  the  equator,  in 
order  to  fall  in  with  the  trade  winds.  We  passed  along  very 
near  the  coast,  having  the  Andes  constantly  in  view,  some  of 
the  peaks  towering  up,  their  heads  buried  in  the  blue  ether  of 
Heaven. 

We  were  often  saluted  by  whales,  sometimes  coming  up  near 
the  ship,  throwing  up  a  column  of  water,  and  passing  under  our 
keel,  displaying  to  us  their  gigantic  dimensions.  We  would 
sometimes  run  into  schools  of  porpoises,  extending  almost  to 
the  horizon  in  every  direction.  We  were  constantly  followed 
by  sharks,  accompanied  by  their  pilots — the  latter  a  most  beau- 
tiful fish,  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  in  length,  striped  in  white 
and  grey.  It  seemed  strange  that  they  should  have  been  cre- 
ated to  act  as  pilots  to  the  '^  terror  of  the  deep."  The  shark 
is  always  accompanid  by  one,  and  sometimes  two  or  three. 
They  generally  swim  a  Httle  in  advance,  but  sometimes  nestle 
along  on  the  back  of  their  huge  master — as  if  to  rest,  and  in 
case  of  emergency,  are  said  to  take  refuge  in  his  mouth. 

On  the  6th  we  came  in  sight  of  "  Chimborazo,"  the  highest 
peak  of  the  Andes,  and  the  highest  mountain  on  the  western 
continent.  It  appears  to  penetrate  the  very  heavens.  It  was 
surmounted  by  belts  or  layers  of  clouds,  with  sufficient  space 
between  to  disclose  the  mountain.  Below  and  above  the  first 
belt  there  was  vegetation,  above  the  second  sterility,  above  the 
third,  and  towering  on  up,  a  covering  of  eternal  snow. 

On  the  12th  we  reached  the  GaUipagos  islands,  a  group  of 
volcanic  formation,  directly  under  the  equator.  They  are  not  in- 
habited by  man,  but  are  the  home  of  the  terrapin.  We  passed 
very  near,  but  as  it  was  almost  sunset,  we  did  not  lower  our 
boat.     We  crossed  the  equator,  and  made  one  degree  south 


A  DEATH  AT  SEA.  43 

latitude.  Then  standing  west,  in  order  to  fall  in  with  the  trade 
winds,  we  reached  110°  west  longitude.  We  then  headed  north 
on  our  course  to  San  Francisco,  but  there  was  no  wind.  "We 
had  a  calm  for  several  days,  accompanied  with  rain  and  mist. 
The  weather  was  excessively  hot,  causing  everything  on  board 
to  mildew.  Our  clothes,  boots,  trunks,  &c.,  were  covered  Avith 
mould.  Those  who  were  sick  became  worse,  and  others  were 
attacked.  Our  ship  rolled  about  like  a  log,  without  sufficient 
air  to  cause  a  ripple.  There  was  a  general  uneasiness  mani- 
fested, and  something  foreboding  in  every  face ;  all  were  indis- 
posed ;  we  felt  that  there  was  a  destitution  of  vitality  in  the 
atmosphere.  On  the  6th  of  June  one  of  the  passengers  was 
attacked  with  the  ship-fever,  which  immediately  proved  fatal. 
He  died  at  three  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  at  ten  was  brought 
out,  sewed  up  in  canvas,  and  laid  upon  the  gang  plank.  A 
bag  of  sand  was  tied  to  his  feet,  a  prayer  read,  and,  at  the  sig- 
nal, the  end  of  the  plank  was  raised,  and  he  slid  gently  into  his 
grave.  It  being  calm,  we  watched  the  spot  until  the  last  bub- 
ble had  risen  to  the  surface.  This  was  to  us  an  afflicting  scene ; 
a  gloom  seemed  to  rest  upon  every  countenance.  That  one  of 
our  number  should  have  been  taken  away  by  a  disease  thought 
to  be  contagious,  and  one  so  malignant  in  its  character,*  gave 
rise  to  emotions  of  the  most  painful  dejection.  The  ship  was 
immediately  cleansed,  disinfecting  fluid  was  distributed  pro- 
fusely, and  we  escaped  the  farther  appearance  of  the  disease. 


^ux  Mititji. 


STAND  IX  FOR  SAN  FRANCISCO — INDICATIONS  OF  LAST) — THE  COAST — EN'TER  THE  "GOLDEN 
gate" — INNER  BAY — SAN  FRANCISCO — LUilPS  OF  GOLD — NOTES  OF  ENTERPRISE — SUR- 
ROUNDING SCENE — GAMBLING. 

We  soon  fell  in  with  the  north-east  trade  winds,  which  car- 
ried us  along  rapidlj,  causing  us  to  make  so  much  lee- way  how- 
ever, that  on  arriving  at  38^  north  latitude,  (the  latitude  of  San 
Francisco),  we  were  at  140^^  west  longitude.  We  then  tacked 
ship  and  stood  in  for  the  coast  of  California.  We  had  baffling 
winds  and  calms  for  several  days,  but  falling  in  with  the  north- 
west trades,  we  were  carried  rapidly  along,  the  wind  increasing 
until  it  blew  a  gale.  This  lasted  for  two  days.  The  ship  laid 
over  so  that  her  main  studding-sail  boom  touched  the  water, 
and  on  the  1st  July  the  gale  carried  away  our  gib.  On  the  8d, 
we  discovered  weeds  and  logs  floating  in  the  water,  indicating 
our  proximity  to  land.  We  take  an  observation,  and  ascertain 
that  we  are  sixty  miles  from  San  Francisco.  This  we  ought 
to  make  by  8  o'clock  the  next  morning.  The  passengers  are  all 
engaged  in  packing  up.  The  retorts,  crucibles,  gold  tests,  pick- 
axes, shovels,  and  tin-pans,  are  put  into  a  separate  bag,  and  laid 
on  the  top ;  each  determined  to  be  the  first  off  for  the  mines. 
Each  one  having  conceived  a  different  mode  of  keeping  his  gold, 
one  would  exhibit  an  ingenious  box  with  a  secret  lock,  another, 
a  false  bottom  to  his  trunk,  a  fourth  a  huge  belt,  while  a  fifth 
was  at  work  on  the  fifteenth  buckskin  bag,  each  of  20  lbs.  capa- 
city. All  were  looking  to  the  glorious  future  with  a  faith  that 
would  have  removed  mountains,  particularly  if  they  were  sus- 
pected of  having  gold  concealed  underneath.  On  the  morning 
of  the  4th,  the  sun  rose  in  a  cloud  of  mist.  We  were  all  expect- 
ation and  excitement.  Some  were  at  mast-head,  others  in  the 
shrouds,  and  all  on  the  "  qui  vive'^  for  land.     The  fog  was  so 


ENTER  THE    '' GOLDEN   GATE."  45 

dense  we  could  not  take  an  observation,  but  still  stood  in  to- 
ward land.  At  12  o'clock  we  felt  a  slight  breeze,  and  the  mist 
rose  like  a  curtain,  displaying  to  our  astonished  vision  the  coast 
of  California.  A  simultaneous  shout  burst  forth,  and  our  very 
ship  seemed  to  bound  with  enthusiasm.  We  find  by  taking  an 
observation  that  we  are  twenty  miles  north  of  the  entrance  to 
the  bay.  We  had  a  fair  wind,  and  passed  along  very  near  the 
coast,  which  is  bold  and  rocky,  rising  and  terminating  in  the 
coast  range  of  mountains,  and  in  the  back  ground  the  famed 
''Sierra  Nevada,"  (mountains  of  snow). 

At  8  o'clock,  p.  M.,  we  arrived  off  a  bold  rocky  promontory, 
which  is  the  north  point  to  the  entrance  of  the  outer  bay  of  San 
Francisco,  called  "De  los  Keys,"  or  King's  Point.  We  soon 
changed  our  course,  standing  in  for  the  entrance  to  the  inner 
bay,  some  twenty  miles  distant.  The  air  was  filled  with  geese, 
brant,  loons,  ducks,  &c.  We  here  saw  the  hair-seal,  somewhat 
resembling  a  tiger.  They  would  come  to  the  surface,  display 
themselves,  and  disappear.  We  saw,  also,  a  very  large  whale 
coming  directly  toward  the  ship,  alternately  diving  and  reap- 
pearing, and  the  third  time  he  came  to  the  surface,  he  was  quite 
near  us.  He  threw  up  a  column  of  water,  and  diving  headlong 
toward  the  bottom,  threw  his  huge  tail  into  the  air.  Not  wish- 
ing to  come  to  anchor  before  morning,  we  shortened  sail,  and 
all  ''^turned  iny 

In  the  morning  we  were  a  short  distance  from  the  "  Golden 
Gate^''  the  entrance  to  the  inner  bay,  making  for  it  with  a  fair 
breeze.  A  large  ship  was  abreast  of  us,  making  for  the  same 
point.  A  schooner  spoke  us,  and  wished  to  pilot  us  in,  but  our 
captain  not  relishing  California  price  ($200),  declined.  The 
strait  through  which  we  were  about  to  pass,  is  an  opening  through 
the  coast-range  of  mountains,  about  a  mile  in  width,  and  has  the 
appearance  of  having  been  cut  through  by  the  action  of  the  in- 
land waters.  The  capes  at  either  side  are  bold,  and  that  on  the 
right  is  fortified.  We  could  not  have  made  a  more  auspicious 
entrance.  It  was  a  delightful  morning,  with  a  fresh  breeze,  and 
the  tide  rushing  in  at  eight  knots.  When  we  had  made  the 
entrance,  we  could  see  through  into  the  inner  bay,  directly  in 
the  centre  of  which  is  an  island  of  considerable  elevation,  which 
serves  as  a  beacon  to  inward-bound  vessels.     The  passage  in 


46  CALIFOKNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

was  entire]y  without  interruption,  and  the  scene  most  enchant- 
ing. It  seemed  to  us  that  the  gates  had  been  thrown  open,  and 
we  ushered  in  to  view  some  fairy  scene.  At  our  left  was  the 
little  bay  of  ''Saucelito"  (Little  Willow),  where  several  vessels 
were  lying  cosily  under  the  bank,  taking  in  water.  Here  is  a 
small  island,  inhabited  only  by  sea-fowl — there  a  strait  which  is 
the  mouth  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  rivers,  beyond 
which  the  shore  of  the  bay  is  bold  with  mountains  in  the  back- 
ground. We  still  head  toward  the  island  in  the  centre.  At  our 
right,  the  shore  is  bold,  and  still  further  on,  a  point  of  considera- 
ble elevation  juts  out  into  the  bay.  The  tide  is  still  bearing  us 
along  with  headlong  speed,  and  we  are  obliged  to  take  in  all 
sail  with  the  exception  of  the  flying-jib.  As  we  neared  the  point 
we  changed  our  course,  making  as  near  it  as  practicable,  and, 
as  we  round  it,  San  Francisco  is  spread  out  before  us,  where 
rides  a  fleet  of  two  hundred  sail.  We  feel  that  we  have  attained 
the  acme  of  our  ambition,  that  we  have  really  entered  the 
"Grolden  Gates."  We  pass  along,  and  passing  several  vessels, 
come  to  the  United  States  man-of  war,  ''Gen.  Warren."  Our 
patriotism,  at  this  particular  time,  was  not  of  a  nature  to  be 
smothered  into  silence.  We  took  off  our  hats,  opened  our 
mouths,  and  it  was  soon  evident  that  our  lungs  had  lost  none  of 
their  vigor  by  exposure  to  the  sea  air.  We  passed  most  of  the 
shipping,  and  finding  a  convenient  place  our  captain  cried  out 
"haul  down  the  flying  jib,"  "let  go  the  anchor,"  and  our  ship 
rounded  to,  as  if  willing  to  rest  after  a  run  of  sixty -five  days. 

We  were  immediately  boarded  by  boatmen,  and  I  was  soon 
in  a  row-boat  on  my  way  to  the  shore.  On  landing,  my  first 
move  was  for  the  post-office.  I  had  gone  but  a  few  paces  in 
this  city  of  strangers,  before  some  one  called  my  name.  I 
turned  around ;  he  did  not  recognize  my  six  months'  beard, 
and  apologized.  I  recognized  him  as  a  New  York  friend,  and 
assured  him  there  was  no  offence,  that  I  was  the  identical  indi- 
vidual he  was  looking  for.  I  accompanied  him  to  his  store,  where 
he  exhibited  several  specimens  of  gold,  weighing  twenty-seven 
ounces,  twenty-five  ounces,  and  down  to  a  single  ounce.  These 
were  no  unwelcome  sight  to  me,  and  served  to  stimulate  the 
fever.  My  greatest  anxiety,  however,  was  to  hear  from  home, 
and  with  the  least  possible  delay,  I  hurried  to  the  post  ofiiGe.   I 


NOTES   OF   ENTERPKISE.  47 

had  heard  from  home  but  once  in  six  months,  and  my  anxiety 
and  pleasure  can  well  be  imagined,  when,  in  answer  to  my 
inquiry,  I  was  handed  a  half-dozen  letters.  I  went  to  a  restau- 
rant, read  my  letters,  ate  a  $3.50  beefsteak,  and  felt  as  rich  as 
men  are  generally  supposed  to  feel  after  a  six  months'  residence. 
I  could  neither  get  room  nor  lodgings  in  town.  Many  of  the 
business  men,  and  all  the  transient  people,  lived  in  tents.  My 
tent  Avas  still  on  board  the  ship,  and  my  friend  above  spoken  of, 
offered  me  the  hospitalities  of  his  own  for  the  night. 

In  the  morning  I  took  my  writing-desk,  and  climbed  to  an 
eminence  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city,  to  write  to  my  friends  at 
home.  Seating  myself  under  a  cluster  of  small  trees  which  pro- 
tected me  from  the  sun,  I  commenced,  and,  with  the  exception 
of  an  interval  for  dinner,  spent  the  day  in  writing.  The  scene 
around  me  was  animated.  Everything  appeared  to  be  propelled 
by  the  most  indomitable  perseverance.  The  frame  of  a  house 
would  be  taken  from  the  ship  in  the  morning,  and  at  night  it 
was  fully  tenanted.  The  clatter  of  the  innumerable  hammers, 
each  answered  by  a  thousand  echoes,  seemed  the  music  by 
which  the  city  was  being  marshalled  into  existence.  Ships 
were  constantly  arriving ;  coming  to  anchor  a  mile  out,  they 
would  immediately  disgorge  their  cargoes,  which,  taken  by 
lighters,  were  conveyed  to  the  shore,  and  thrown  into  heaps, 
their  owners  running  about  to  contract  for  their  immediate 
transportation  into  the  interior.  Others  were  seen  rowing  off 
to  vessels,  which,  after  receiving  their  complement  of  passengers, 
would  weigh  anchor  and  stand  for  the  strait,  which  is  the  joint 
mouth  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joaquin  Elvers. 

Towards  evening  the  scene  became  less  animated,  and  the 
noise  more  subdued.  I  could  but  look  with  admiration  upon 
the  heightened  beauty  of  the  scene,  as  Nature  was  about  to 
repose.  A  smile  of  approbation  seemed  to  play  upon  her 
countenance  as  she  was  taking  the  last  view  of  this,  the  perfec- 
tion of  her  works. 

The  sun  is  almost  down,  tinging  only  some  of  the  highest 
peaks  of  the  surrounding  mountains.  The  city,  extending  from 
the  bay  up  the  left  base  and  side  of  the  mountain,  is  about  to 
cease  her  notes  of  enterprise,  and  light  her  lamps.  At  the  base, 
directly  under  my  feet,  is  an  encampment  of  one  hundred  tents, 


48  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

occupied  by  Americans  and  Chilians.  Two  hundred  ships  are 
lying  at  anchor,  displaying  their  various  ensigns,  comprising 
almost  all  the  commercial  nations  of  the  world  ;  and  looming  up 
conspicuously  in  the  offing,  is  the  man-of-war,  "Gen.  Warren," 
her  majestic  appearance  proclaiming  the  superiority  of  Ameri- 
can naval  architecture.  But  the  most  striking  feature  in  the 
scene  is  this  beautiful  bay;  surrounded  by  mountains  which 
protect  it  from  the  winds,  it  sleeps  in  perfect  calm,  the  flood  and 
ebb  tide  carrying  vessels  in  and  out,  at  from  seven  to  eight 
knots  an  hour.  At  this  moment,  although  the  wind  is  blowing 
in  the  mountains,  the  bay  is  as  placid  as  a  mirror.  In  the  centre 
of  the  bay  is  a  beautiful  island,  as  if  nature  haa  set  in  pearl  one 
of  her  choicest  emeralds.  But  "night  has  let  her  curtain 
down,  and  pinned  it  with  a  star."  In  the  evening  I  strolled 
about  with  my  friends,  and  was  surprised  to  see  that  all  of  the 
best  houses  on  the  main  streets  were  gambling  houses.  The 
rooms  were  brilliantly  lighted,  and  each  contained  several  monte 
tables,  loaded  with  gold  and  silver  coin,  together  with  many 
rich  specimens  from  the  mines.  To  allure  their  victims,  they 
were  usuallv  furnished  with  music,  a  bar,  and  an  interesting: 
senorita  to  deal  the  cards.  Gamblers  understand  that  the  only 
sure  way  of  making  a  man  courageous  is  to  get  him  drunk,  conse- 
quently, at  about  every  second  dealing  of  the  cards,  all  the 
betters  are  "  treated."  A  man  bets  on  a  card  and  loses.  His 
last  drink  is  beginning  to  effervesce,  and,  of  course,  he  is  too 
shrewd  to  let  the  gambler  have  his  money.  He  doubles  the  bet, 
putting  the  money  on  the  same  card,  thinking  that  a  card  must, 
at  least,  win  every  other  time.  I  have  noticed  that  gamblers 
are  very  considerate,  always  managing  to  throw  out  just  the 
card  the  victim  wishes  to  bet  upon.  Again  he  loses,  and  again 
is  "  treated."  His  courage  is  up  :  the  third  time  his  card  must 
certainly  win.  The  "  deal"  takes  place,  and,  strange  to  say,  his 
card  is  turned  up,  and  seems  to  say,  in  its  very  face  that  it  is  to 
win.  In  order  to  win  back  his  former  losses,  he  stakes,  this  time, 
half  his  purse.  The  other  betters  and  bystanders  now  begin  to 
manifest  an  interest  in  the  affair.  The  gambler  now  begins  to 
draw  the  cards,  and,  lo!  the  "^nctim's  card  don't  win.  He  is 
excited ;  he  sees  that  others  are  looking  at  him,  and  displays 
the  greatest  amount  of  courage  by  taking  another  drink,  and 


GAMBLING.  49 

calling  for  another  deal.  Again  Ms  card  is  turned  up.  It  can- 
not possibly  lose  four  times  in  succession.  He  throws  on 
his  entire  purse.  It  is  lost.  He  goes  out  penniless.  Another 
shrewd  man  was  standing  by,  betting  small  sums  on  the  oppo- 
site card,  and  consequently  had  won  four  times  in  succession. 
He  had  discovered  the  remarkable  fact^  that  the  card  oppo- 
site the  above  described  unlucky  one,  would  invariablg  win. 
He  determined  to  make  a  fortune  by  his  discovery.  The  deal 
takes  place,  the  unlucky  card  comes  out,  and  he  puts  a  large 
sum  on  the  other  one.  The  cards  are  drawn,  and,  strange  as 
it  may  seem,  the  unlucky  card  wins.  This  appeared  doubly 
strange  to  the  shrewd  man.  He  took  another  drink,  and  felt 
positive  it  could  not  happen  so  kgain.  Another  deal,  and 
the  indefatigable  unlucky  card  is  again  in  the  field.  Again  the 
shrewd  man  bets,  and  again  the  unlucky  card  wins.  The  shrewd 
man  displays  as  much  courage  as  his  predecessor,  and  is  soon 
prepared  to  leave  in  the  same  'financial  condition. 

The  bystanders  grow  a  little  suspicious.  The  cards  are  again 
dealt,  small  bets  are  made  and  won  by  the  bystanders.  The 
gambler  "  treats,'^  bystanders  again  bet,  win,  are  "  treated,'^  and 
grow  courageous.  A  better  state  of  feeling  exists ;  the  gambler 
grows  more  complacent,  and  treats  oftener.  All  are  anxious  to 
bet,  the  gambler  is  considered  one  of  the  best  of  fellows^one  of 
that  kind  of  men  who  would  a  little  prefer  losing  money  to  win- 
ning it.  Again  bets  are  made  and  won,  and  all  appear  anxious  to 
share  the  gambler's  money,  as  it  is,  doubtless,  about  to  be  distribu- 
ted among  the  fortunate  bystanders.  All  drink  and  bet  liberally ; 
but  this  time  they  lose.  This  is,  however,  the  first  loss,  and 
they  bet  again,  but  it  so  happens  that  they  lose  this  ti^e  also. 
They  drink  and  bet  again,  and  again  lose.  They  now  find  that 
they  have  only  half  as  much  money  as  they  commenced  with. 
They  now  resolve  to  recover  what  they  have  lost,  and  quit.  But, 
alas !  when  the  victim  arrives  at  this  point  in  the  drama,  he  is 
lost.  He  loses  every  bet,  until,  seized  by  a  feeling  of  reckless 
desperation,  he  risks  all^  and  is  immolated  upon  the  altar  of 
avarice. 

hundreds  who  have  never  risked,  and  who  think  it  impossi- 
ble they  ever  could  risk,  a  dollar  in  a  game  of  chance,  are  daily 
drawn  into  the  vortex.     They  come  to  town  with  well-filled . 
4 


50  CALIFOflNlA  ILLUSTRATED. 

purses,  tlie  proceeds,  perhaps,  of  six  montlis'  hard  labor,  to  buy 
the  necessary  provisions  and  clothing,  get  their  letters,  &c. 
They  meet  old  friends,  drink,  go  to  the  gambling  house,  drink 
again,  and  finally  bet  a  small  amount,  and  perhaps  win. 
They  bet  again,  and  again  win.  A  feeling  of  avarice  is  now 
excited,  and  they  risk  a  large  sum.  But  after  repeated  bets, 
with  varied  success,  they  discover  that  they  are  losers.  They 
now  make  the  fatal  resolve  that  they  will  win  back  what  they 
have  lost  and  quit ;  the  next  moment  they  are  ruined. 


Cliaiitn  €tn. 


THE  "  HOUNDS  " — VILLAINY— INDIGNATION  MEETING — VIGILANCE  COMMITTEB. 

San  Fkancisco  was,  at  this  time,  infested  bj  a  gang  of  des- 
perados disposed  to  repudiate  all  laws,  and  be  governed  only 
by  their  own  fiendish  propensities.  They  styled  themselves 
"  hounds,"  and  neither  life  nor  property  were  secure  against  their 
depredations.  They  felt  so  secure  in  their  strength  and  numbers, 
that  they  did  not  seek  the  protection  of  night,  but  frequently 
committed  the  most  revolting  crimes  at  noon-day,  and  under  the 
eye  of  the  public  authorities.  They  would  enter  public  houses, 
demand  whatever  they  wished,  always  forgetting  to  pay  for  the 
same,  and,  perhaps,  before  leaving,  demolish  every  article  of 
furniture  on  the  premises.  This  would  be  a  mere  prelude  or 
introductory  to  a  night  of  fiendish  revelry.  They  would  plun- 
der houses,  commit  the  most  diabolical  acts  upon  the  inmates, 
murder  in  case  of  resistance,  then  commit  the  building  to  the 
flames  to  hide  their  infamy. 

On  the  first  Sunday  after  my  arrival,  several  of  the  leaders  of 
the  gang  returned  to  town,  after  a  few  days'  absence.  They 
crossed  over  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  having  with  them 
a  fife  and  drum,  the  music  of  which  was  accompanied  by  yells, 
groans  and  hisses,  such  as  one  would  only  expect  to  hear  from 
demons.  After  landing  they  marched  into  the  main  plaza,  and 
executing  a  few  peculiar  evolutions,  dispensed  with  their  music, 
at  least  the  instrumental  part  of  it,  and  commenced  their  foray. 
I  was  seated  in  a  restaurant  as  the  captain  and  five  of  his  follow- 
ers entered.  He  drew  up  to  a  table  upon  which  were  several 
glasses,  decanters,  &c.,  togetherwithsundry  plates  of  refreshments. 
He  raised  his  foot,  kicked  over  the  table,  smashing  the  crockery 
into  atoms,  then  taking  his  cigar  from  his  mouth  said,  with  the 
utmost  nonchalance^  and  an  oath,  "  waiter,  bring  me  a  gin-cock- 


52  CALIFORXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

tail."  After  Laving  satisfied  their  thirst  and  hunger,  thej  sallied 
forth  without  taking  the  trouble  to  learn  the  precise  amount  of 
damage  done. 

During  the  night,  after  committing  several  robberies,  they 
entered  a  Chilian  tent,  and,  after  committing  the  most  brutal 
outrages  upon  the  mother  and  daughter,  murdered  the  former,  and 
in  their  struggle  with  the  latter,  she,  after  receiving  several 
severe  wounds,  caught  a  bowie-knife  from  the  hand  of  one  of 
them  and,  after  dealing  him  a  deadly  blow,  made  her  escape. 
She  immediately  gave  the  alarm,  and  although  robberies  had 
been  committed  with  impunity,  this  outrage  upon  defenceless 
females,  awakened  an  impulse  that  was  irresistible.  The 
excitement  was  most  intense ;  citizens  flocked  together,  armed 
with  a  determination  to  meet  out  summary  punishment  to  the 
perpetrators  of  this  inhuman  outrage. 

Several  arrests  were  made,  and,  although  many  were  in  favor 
of  summary  vengeance,  better  counsel  prevailed,  and  they  were 
put  into  the  hands  of  the  authorities  and  locked  up.  They  re- 
fused to  give  any  information  as  to  the  stolen  property,  but  upon 
searching  the  tent  of  an  accomplice,  various  articles  were  found, 
and  snugly  stowed  away  in  a  mattress  was  a  large  amount  in 
gold  dust,  the  wages  of  their  infamy.  A  few  hours  after  the 
above  arrests,  a  demonstration  was  made  by  accomplices,  in  order 
to  force  open  the  jail,  and  release  their  comrades.  This  caused 
the  strongest  feelings  of  indignation,  and  the  citizens  assembled 
en  masse  in  the  plaza,  all  armed  to  the  teeth,  determined  to 
avenge  this  additional  aggravation  to  the  atrocious  crimes 
already  perpetrated.  They  immediately  organized  themselves 
into  a  police,  and  determined  to  act  with  decision  upon  any 
proposition  that  might  be  sanctioned  by  the  meeting.  Had  a 
resolution  passed  to  hang  the  prisoners  it  would  have  been  car- 
ried into  immediate  effect.  ISTotwithstanding  the  excitement  of 
the  moment,  many  of  the  "hounds"  had  the  effrontery  to  show 
themselves,  and  during  a  speech  by  one  of  the  citizens,  made 
some  menacing  jestures,  upon  which  the  speaker  drew  a  revolver 
from  his  bosom,  and  with  a  determined  emphasis  requested  all 
those  who  sympathized  with  the  prisoners  to  separate  from  the 
crowd.  Had  they  complied,  the  determioation  manifested  in 
every  countenance  gave  fearful  token  of  the  doom  that  awaited 


INCENDIARISM.  53 

tTiem.  It  was  resolved,  in  consideration  of  the  insecurity  of 
the  jail,  to  transfer  the  prisoners  to  the  man-of-war,  "  General 
Warren."  This  was  carried  into  immediate  effect,  the  citizens 
forming  a  double  file  from  the  jail  to  the  shore. 

This  demonstration  secured  but  five  of  the  numerous  horde 
that  infested  the  city,  and  it  was  not  to  be  expected  that  the 
arrests  of  these  would  prove  a  salutary  check,  nor  did  it.  The 
desperados  stood  in  greater  fear  of  this  self-constituted  police 
than  of  the  regular  authorities.  This  organization  was  undoubt- 
edly the  germ  from  which  the  "Vigilance  Committee"  event- 
ually grew.  It  is  well  known  that,  upon  the  breaking  out  of 
the  gold  excitement,  the  cities  of  the  world  sent  forth  their 
vilest  scum,  consisting  of  gamblers,  pickpockets,  murderers,  and 
thieves,  and  California  was  the  receptacle.  They  immediately 
fraternized,  and  were  at  once  the  most  adroit,  wily  and  expe- 
rienced embodiment  of  villainy  with  which  the  prospects  of  a 
city  were  ever  blighted.  They  were  not  men  broken  down  in 
their  profession  at  home,  but  the  very  aristocracy  of  crime.  Too 
well-skilled  to  be  detected,  they  had  escaped  the  meshes  of  the 
law  in  their  own  country,  and  resorted  to  California  for  its  supe- 
rior business  prospects.  As  if  to  have  the  organization  complete, 
the  convict  islands  of  Great  Britain  vomited  forth  a  herd  that 
seemed  almost  festering  with  crime.  This  sealed  the  doom  of 
San  Francisco.  She  was  infested  by  an  organization,  the  very 
incarnation  of  infamy.  They  would  fire  the  city  for  plunder, 
and  commit  murder  to  screen  themselves  from  detection. 

The  city  had  grown  to  the  stature  of  a  giant ;  all  were  reaping 
the  reward  of  their  enterprise,  when  on  the  5th  December  fol- 
lowing, the  torch  of  the  incendiary  was  applied,  and  within  a 
few  short  hours  San  Francisco  was  in  ashes.  Citizens  who  had 
assumed  their  pillows  in  wealth  awoke  in  penury.  Many, 
after  a  year  of  toil  and  anxiety,  were  preparing  to  return  to  their 
families  in  afiluence,  but  in  one  brief  moment  their  dreams  of 
happiness  were  blighted,  and  their  riches  a  heap  of  smouldering 
ruins.  The  city  was  immediately  rebuilt,  but  citizens  had 
barely  entered  their  new  habitations,  when  it  was  again  devas- 
tated by  fire.  Again  it  rose,  Phenix-like,  from  its  own  ashes, 
and  again  business  was  resumed,  but  for  the  third  time  it  was 
in  ruins. 


54  CALIFORXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

The  citizens  were  appalled.  That  it  was  the  work  of  incen- 
diaries no  one  doubted,  jet  to  detect  them  seemed  impossible,  so 
skillfully  were  their  plans  laid,  and  so  adroitly  executed.  Added 
to  this,  the  sequel  proved  that  some  of  their  number  had  got 
into  "high  places,"  were  conniving  at  their  acts,  and  sharing 
their  ill-gotten  booty.  This,  in  part,  accounts  for  the  tardy  pro- 
ceedings against  those  who  were  arrested,  and  the  numerous  re- 
prieves of  those  who  were  clearly  proved  guilty.  Property  to 
the  value  of  some  twenty  millions  of  dollars  had  already  been 
destroyed,  hundreds  of  citizens  had  been  reduced  from  affluence 
to  bankruptcy,  others  were  in  momentary  fear  of  sharing  the 
same  fate.  They  had  lost  confidence  in  the  city  authorities,  and 
there  seemed  no  alternative  but  to  take  the  matter  into  their 
own  hands.  They  consequently  organized  themselves  into  what 
was  termed  a  "Vigilance  Committee,"  with  the  determination  of 
bringing  every  suspicious  person  to  a  strict  account.  Many  of 
the  most  influential  and  wealthy  citizens  were  the  first  to  enrol 
themselves,  and  they  called  upon  all  to  join  them  in  their  effort 
at  self-protection.  Their  head-quarters  was  at  the  engine-house 
of  a  fire  company,  the  tolling  of  the  bell  being  the  signal  for  all 
to  assemble.  This  well-known  signal  was  always  heard  when 
an  arrest  was  made,  and  became  the  death-knell  to  many  a 
wretch,  who  for  his  villainies  was  hastily  summoned  into  another 
world.  The  meetings  of  the  Committee  were  strictly  private, 
none  but  members  being  admitted.  The  proceedings  were  sum- 
mary, and  if  the  prisoner  was  proved  guilty  his  sentence  was 
carried  into  immediate  efiect.  Kone  were  executed,  however, 
without  the  unanimous  consent  of  members  present,  this  being 
one  of  the  provisions  of  their  constitution.  Those  who  were 
executed  were  not  only  proved  guilty,  but  confessed  their  guilt 
before  their  execution.  Most  of  those  who  fell  under  the  ban  of 
the  Committee  were  "Sidney  convicts,"  and  subsequently  they 
were  all  ordered  to  leave  the  country  within  a  specified  time, 
upon  the  pain  of  death.  The  Mayor  issued  a  proclamation 
against  the  proceedings  of  the  Committee,  and  the  coroner's 
juries  summoned  over  the  bodies  of  those  who  were  executed, 
found  against  them;  yet  it  is  a  question  of  doubt,  whether 
any  one  was  secretly  opposed  to  their  proceedings. 

Persons  living  in  well-regulated  communities,  and  looking  at 


J 
VIGILANCE  COMMITTEE.  65  \ 


th-Q  matter  in  the  distance,  may  feel  disposed  to  censure  tlie 
Committee  and  its  proceedings  as  hasty  and  precipitate ;  but, 
when  we  take  into  consideration  that  not  only  property  to  an 
immense  amount,  but  life  itself,  was  in  jeopardy — the  want  of 
facilities  for  securing  and  retaining  criminals  during  the  tardy 
process  of  law,  the  numerous  rescues  by  accomplices,  and  the  fre- 
quent pardons  by  the  authorities  when  the  accused  were  noto- 
riously guilty, — I  say,  when  we  take  these  things  into  con- 
sideration, together  with  the  fact  that  not  an  individual  was 
executed  who  was  not  clearly  proved  guilty,  and  even  confessed 
his  guilt ;  we  can  look  upon  the  acts  of  the  Committee  not  only 
as  just — but  imperative.  In  the  confessions  of  some  of  those 
who  were  executed  they  implicated  men  in  authority,  in  such  a 
manner  that  not  a  doubt  was  left  upon  the  public  mind.  The 
result  of  these  summary  measures  is  apparent  to  all.  Crime, 
since  the  organization  of  the  Committee,  has  decreased  one  half, 
and  they  have  now  ceased  to  make  arrests,  leaving  all  to  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  proper  authorities.  They,  however,  main- 
tain their  organization,  and  would,  no  doubt,  act  in  case  of 
emergency. 


Cjjaptn  (BltDEntlj. 


8TAKT  FOR  THE  MINERAL  REGIONS — BANKS  OF  THE  SACRAMENTO  RITER — SHOT  AT — GOLD 
VS.  MICA — SUTTERVILLE — PRIMITIVE  MODE  OF  LIFE — SACRAMENTO  CITY — AN  INDIVID- 
UAL WHO  HAD  "SEEN  THE  ELEPHANT." 

I  SPENT  the  interval  between  the  5th  of  July  and  the  19  th  in 
preparing  for  the  mines.  I  found  many  of  the  miners  in  town 
on  account  of  the  high  state  of  water  in  the  rivers.  My  friends 
who  had  visited  the  interior,  spoke  discouragingly  of  the  mines, 
preferring  the  mercantile  business.  But  goods  were  at  the 
time  selling  at  less  than  New  York  prices,  and  rents  were  enor- 
mously high.  Many  of  the  merchants  were  anxious  to  sell  out 
and  go  into  the  mines,  and  I  came  to  the  conclusion  that  mining 
was  the  only  sure  way  of  making  a  fortune. 

On  the  19th  July  I  went  on  board  the  brig  "North  Bend," 
with  three  men  who  had  been  hired  in  New  York  and  sent  out 
by  a  company  in  which  I  had  an  interest,  and  sailed  for  the 
Sacramento  river.  We  crossed  the  bay,  and  in  an  hour  were 
in  the  strait,  running  up  with  a  stiff  breeze,  passing  numer- 
ous small  islands  inhabited  by  water  fowl  and  covered  with 
"guano."  There  were  innumerable  ducks,  brant,  loons,  and 
geese  flying  through  the  air ;  the  scenery  delightful,  the  first 
fifty  miles  being  a  succession  of  small  bays,  all  studded  with 
islands.  At  the  right  the  bank  rises  gradually  to  the  height  of 
from  twenty  to  fifty  feet,  covered  with  wild  oats,  with  an  occa- 
sional "live  oak"  tree,  and  relieved  by  frequent  ravines  through 
which  small  streams  find  their  way  to  the  strait.  This  plain, 
during  the  rainy  season,  furnishes  pasture  for  herds  of  wild  cat- 
tle— elk,  deer,  and  antelope,  but  at  this  season  they  had  retired 
to  the  marshes  and  lower  lands ;  and  the  whole  of  the .  right 
bank,  as  far  back  as  the  eye  could  reach,  appeared  one  immense 
field  of  ripened  grain.    The  le^t  bank,  on  the  immediate  margin, 


BANKS  OF  THE  SACRAMENTO  RIYER.  57 

presents  the  same  appearance,  but  relieved  in  the  background 
bj  the  coast  range  of  mountains  with  which  we  were  running 
parallel.  This  range  appears  a  continuous  ledge  of  granite, 
destitute  of  vegetation,  and  at  one  point  towers  up  into  a  peak 
of  considerable  height,  called  Monte  Diablo,  (Devil's  Mount). 

At  12  M.,  we  arrived  at  Benicia,  now  a  port  of  entry  and 
United  States  naval  station.  The  man  of  man-of-war,  "  South- 
ampton," was  anchored  in  the  stream — guarding  the  passage — 
to  prevent  smuggling.  As  soon  as  we  came  in  sight  they  low- 
ered their  boat,  and  pulled  out  toward  the  middle  of  the  stream 
to  intercept  us,  and  examine  our  papers — at  the  same  time 
hoisting  a  signal  for  us  to  come  to.  Our  captain  was  an  "  old 
salt,"  and,  in  his  estimation,  the  greatest  blessing  conferred  upon 
man  is  a  fair  wind.  He  had  every  inch  of  canvas  set,  and  man- 
ifested a  determination  not  to  shorten  sail ;  we  were  running 
before  a  ten-knot  breeze,  and  flew  by  them  like  a  shadow. 
They  hailed  us,  but  not  being  obeyed  they  fired  a  gun  from 
the  ship,  when  our  captain  ordered  the  helm  put  down,  and  in 
an  instant  our  sails  were  fluttering  in  the  breeze ;  we  had  dis- 
tanced the  jolly-boat — they  being  obliged  to  row  half  a  mile 
against  the  current  to  reach  us.  The  officer  boarded  us  in  not 
the  most  amiable  mood ;  it  was  quite  apparent  that  we  were 
enjoying  a  joke  he  thought  somewhat  expensive  to  himself. 
He  informed  us  that  a  foreign  vessel  had  passed  them  a  few 
days  previous ;  but  they  were  now  on  their  guard  and  would 
have  given  us  the  next  shot  in  our  rigging.  He  pronounced 
our  papers  satisfactory,  and  pulled  off  for  the  ship,  being  most 
heartily  cheered  by  us. 

We  were  soon  under  way  dashing  along  at  lightning  speed ; 
soon  arriving  at  the  confluence  of  the  Sacramento  and  San  Joa- 
quin rivers,  fifty  miles  above  San  Francisco,  the  latter  river 
coming  in  from  the  east,  the  former  from  the  north.  The  strait 
up  which  we  had  sailed,  running  in  the  same  direction,  is  called, 
by  many,  the  Sacramento  river.  At  the  junction  of  the  two 
rivers  there  is  a  marsh,  of  some  extent,  in  the  midst  of  which 
is  located  the  "  New  York  of  the  Pacific,"  of  newspaper  noto- 
riety. I  am  informed  that  it  now  contains  one  house.  There 
were  not  so  many  when  we  passed  up.  It  is  said  there  has 
never  been  a  death  in  the  city.     We  coon  entered  ''Sui  Sun'* 


68  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

bay,  wliicli  is  an  extensive,  but  very  sballow  body  of  water, 
requiring  careful  pilotage  to  take  vessels  through,  in  safety.  We 
again  enter  the  Sacramento,  which  now  presents  a  different 
appearance — the  immediate  margin  being  walled  up  by  heavy 
timber,  beyond  which  the  marsh  extends  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach.  The  depth  of  water  on  these  marshes  frequently  covers 
the  grass,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a  succession  of  lakes — 
all  swarming  with  water  fowls.  Soon  after  reentering  the  river 
our  pilot  brought  us  to  a  dead  stand  by  running  us  on  a  sand 
bar.  It  was  ebb  tide,  and  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  await 
the  flood.  We  loaded  our  rifles,  lowered  a  boat,  and  pulled  for 
the  shore,  preparatory  to  a  hunt. 

On  landing,  we  were  greeted  by  one  of  the  most  ravenous 
swarms  of  mosquitos  it  was  ever  my  fortune  to  fall  in  with. 
They  seemed  to  constitute  the  very  atmosphere,  and  for  size  and 
spirit,  I  think  they  are  without  rivals,  even  in  the  "  Montezuma 
swamp."  We  did  not  at  first  retreat,  but  soon  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  game  must  be  poor,  where  there  are  so  many  hills 
presented.  We  carried  a  few  of  them  on  board,  and  they  were 
so  well  pleased,  they  remained  till  morning.  At  10,  A.M.,  the 
tide  flooded  us  off,  and  we  were  again  under  way.  We  soon 
left  the  river,  and  entered  what  is  called  the  "slough,"  which  is  a 
part  of  the  river  running  out  twenty  miles  above,  and  by  pass- 
ing through  it,  half  the  distance  is  saved.  On  both  sides  the 
"  slough,"  it  is  densely  timbered;  the  branches  hanging  over  the 
stream,  and  many  of  the  trees  inclining  over,  it  required  the 
greatest  care  to  avoid  their  coming  in  contact  with  our  spars. 
We  had  a  fine  breeze,  and  each  of  the  passengers  took  his  turn 
at  the  wheel.  None  of  them  attracted  the  attention  of  the 
captain,  until  it  became  my  turn.  Whether  it  was  that  I  under- 
stood navigation  better  than  my  fellow-passengers,  I  am  not 
prepared  to  say,  but,  certain  it  is,  that  I  had  stood  at  the  wheel 
but  a  moment,  when,  without  consulting  the  compass,  I  found 
myself  at  a  dead  stand  in  a  tree-top.  I  did  not  claim  much 
credit  for  it,  and  did  7iot  receive  any. 

After  cutting  away  branches,  grapevines,  etc.,  we  were  again 
under  way,  with  the  captain  at  the  wheel.  He  proved  as  skill- 
ful as  myself,  and  made,  fast  to  the  first  tree-top.  We  soon 
reentered  the  main  channel,  and  were  passing  through  a  more 


■ '.  ■  -i^y^**^" 


GOLD  VS.  MICA.  59 

pleasant  country,  being  a  succession  of  forest  and  plain.  At  4, 
P.M.,  in  passing  the  moutb.  of  a  small  stream,  we  again  found 
ourselves  aground,  with,  a  prospect  of  waiting  twelve  hours  for 
the  next  tide.  A  boat  was  lowered,  and  some  of  the  passengers 
went  off  to  hunt.  There  were  fish  here  in  abundance.  We 
offered  them  refreshments,  but  they  seemed  to  "loathe  the  sight." 
The  passengers  who  had  gone  on  shore,  had  disappeared  in  the 
forest,  but  soon  two  of  the  number  were  seen  hurrying  toward 
the  shore.  They  pushed  off  the  small  boat,  and  were  soon  coming 
over  the  side  of  the  brig.  They  appeared  much  agitated,  and, 
after  consulting  a  friend  in  whispers,  the  three  started  for  the 
shore. 

After  an  hour's  absence,  they  returned  with  their  handker- 
chiefs filled  with  something,  which  was  evidently  not  for  the 
public  eye.  It  was  immediately  put  under  lock  and  key.  From 
the  self-satisfied  air  and  knowing  winks  of  the  three  fortunate 
individuals,  it  was  apparent  that  their  future  was  full  of  hope. 
After  mature  reflection,  they,  no  doubt,  came  to  the  conclusion, 
that  as  there  was  enough  for  all,  as  it  was  in  their  power,  with 
a  word,  to  place  wealth  within  the  grasp  of  all,  it  was  their 
duty  to  make  all  happy,  without  delay,  and,  with  great  magnani- 
mity, informed  us  that  they  had  ascended  the  stream  some  dis- 
tance, and,  as  they  approached  the  ripple,  to  their  astonishment, 
they  found  the  water  gurgling  through  pebbles  of  gold.  They 
had  each  secured  a  competence,  assuring  us  that  we  could  go 
and  do  likewise.  Some  evil-disposed  person  stood  by,  who 
informed  us  that  he  noticed  the  same  thing,  and  did  not  think  it 
was  gold.  The  three  above-mentioned  individuals,  to  reassure 
us,  unlocked  their  trunks,  but,  lo !  their  fortunes,  like  fancy- 
stocks  at  the  present  day,  had  a  downward  tendency.  It  proved 
to  be  mica.  It  had  somewhat  the  appearance  of  gold,  but  on 
separating  it  from  the  sand,  it  was  found  to  be  very  light,  hav- 
ing the  appearance  of  small  pieces  of  gilt  paper.  It  was  a  most 
blighting  illustration  of  the  adage,  that  "  all  is  not  gold  that 
glitters,"  particularly  to  the  three  above-mentioned  individuals. 
The  bed  of  the  river  at  this  place  had  the  appearance  of  being 
constituted  of  golden  sands.  The  same  has  been  noticed  in 
almost  all  the  streams  in  California,  and  has,  uudoubtedly, 
given  rise  to  many  of  the  golden  reports.    At  10,  A.M.,  (Sun- 


60  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

day,)  we  were  again  under  waj',  the  day  excessively  hot,  and 
at  12,  if.,  arrived  at  "  Sutterville  ;"  and,  when  opposite  the  town^ 
found  ourselves  out  of  the  channel,  and  aground.  We  all  went 
on  shore,  and  had  the  pleasure  of  making  the  acquaintance  of 
one  of  the  proprietors,  with  whom  we  walked  a  mile  back  from 
the  town^  to  view  "  Gj.pitol  Hilly''  the  anticipated  site  of  the  State 
House.  Although  we  did  not  break  ground  for  the  corner- 
stone, we  were  among  the  first  to  know  the  precise  spat.  The 
town  is  situated  four  miles  below  Sacramento  City,  and  three 
from  the  fort.  It  contained  three  houses,  visible  to  the  natural 
eye,  but,  to  the  eye  of  the  worthy  proprietor's  imagination,  it 
numbered  many  thousands.  This  had  caused  a  very  perceptible 
rise  in  the  value  of  city  lots. 

It  afterwards  became  a  town  of  some  twenty  houses.  The 
owners  offered  to  a  company  owning  the  bark  "Josephine," 
thirty  lots  provided  they  would  land  their  effects  and  make  im- 
provements. The  proposition  was  accepted,  and  the  improve- 
ments commenced.  (See  Plate.)  A  cannon  is  seen  in  the  fore- 
ground which  was  taken  from  the  Josephine,  and  used  to  salate 
vessels  in  passing  up  and  down  the  river,  as  occasion  might 
require.  At  the  left,  are  two  Oregonians  riding  at  fall  speed, 
and  in  the  centre  is  seen  the  Indian  chief,  Olympia,  his  squaw, 
and  several  natives  of  lesser  note.  The  Josephine  is  seen  at  the 
river  bank.     She  was  subsequently  sold  and  sailed  for  Oregon. 

I  here  visited  a  family  that  had  been  wandering  about  since 
1845,  without  having  entered  a  house.  There  were  two  men,  a 
woman,  and  three  children,  from  three  months  to  five  years  of 
age.  •  They  started  from  one  of  the  Eastern  States,  with  a  wag- 
on, two  yoke  of  oxen,  and  two  cows,  passed  through  Missouri, 
crossed  the  Eocky  Mountains  into  Oregon,  and  finally  drove 
down  to  California.  The  children  were  all  natives  of  the  forest 
except  the  eldest.  They  were  encamped  under  a  large  oak-tree 
a  short  distance  from  the  river.  The  bed  was  made  up  on  the 
ground,  the  sheets  of  snowy  whiteness,  the  kitchen  furniture  was 
well  arranged  against  the  root  of  the  tree,  the  children  were 
building  a  playhouse  of  sticks,  while  the  mother  was  sit- 
ting in  a  ''Boston  rocker"  reading  the  Bible,  with  a  Methodist 
hymn-book  in  her  lap.  The  infant  lay  croaking  on  a  white 
flannel-blanket,  lookiug  like  a  blown  up  life-preserver.     While  I 


'i^-m^ 


^;|*^.^^'       ...^/;, 


"seeing  the  elephant."  61 

was  conversing  with.  tTie  woman,  one  of  tlie  men  went  into  the 
back  room  to  change  his  linen,  i.  e.,  he  stepped  behind  the  tree. 
^They  were  all  enjoying  good  health  and  appeared  happy.  I  am 
disposed  to  think  their  house  will  be  a  poor  protection  during 
the  rainy  season;  but  for  a  summer-house,  I  could  not  well 
conceive  of  one  better  ventilated. 

The  next  morning  the  flood-tide  swept  us  into  the  channel, 
and  at  ten,  we  made  fast  to  the  bank  at  Sacramento  city.  This  is 
at  the  junction  of  the  American  river  with  the  Sacramento,  150 
miles  from-  San  Francisco.  Here,  all  was  confusion  and  dust, 
each  generating  the  other.  This  is  the  point  from  which  the 
first  move  is  made,  by  land,  for  the  mines,  and  every  man  was 
on  the  run ;  mule- teams  were  moving  in  every  direction,  some 
loading,  others  preparing  to  load,  each  surrounded  by  a  halo  of 
dust  which  rendered  mules  and  driver  invisible.  We  were  just 
in  time  to  find  one  tree  unoccupied,  consequently  settled  down 
and  commenced  ''  keeping  house."  We  designed  to  remain  in 
town  until  the  next  morning.  (See  Plate.)  This  is  my  own  tent. 
At  this  time,  there  were  about  one  hundred  houses  and  tents  in 
town  ;  but  it  seemed  that  every  man  landed  with  a  house,  and 
put  it  up  the  same  day.  Our  brig  had  no  less  than  thirteen  on 
board,  finished  even  to  the  glazing.  Goods  of  every  description 
were  piled  up  on  the  river-bank,  awaiting  the  carman.  The 
owners  were,  in  many  instances,  obliged  to  erect  temporary 
shelters  and  sell  them  on  the  ground. 

I  met  several  persons  who  had  been  in  the  mines  and  seen  the 
"  Elephant."  Among  others,  a  fellow  passenger  on  the  "  Nian- 
tic."'  He  had  been  in  the  country  two  weeks,  and  in  the  mines 
half  an  hour.  He  had  just  returned,  and  was  traveling  through 
town  trying  to  sell  his  utensils,  preparatory  to  returning  to  the 
States.  He  was  completely  decorated  with  his  wares,  and 
looked  like  a  country  kitchen  in  disorder.  He  had  a  pair  of 
grained  boots  and  a  smoked  ham  in  one  hand,  a  piece  of  perfo- 
rated sheet-iron,  a  coffee-pot  and  frying-pan  in  the  other,  a  pair 
of  long  India  Eubber  boots,  with  pants  attached,  thrown  over  one 
shoulder,  and  a  pair  of  blankets  under  the  arm.  Over  the  other 
shoulder,  was  a  long-handled  shovel,  from  which  was  suspended 
a  camp-kettle,  containing  a  pepper-box,  a  pair  of  mining  shoes, 
a  piece  of  smoked  beef,  a  Spanish  grammar,  several  sea-biscuit, 


62  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

a  pick-axe  -^-itlioTit  a  handle,  and  one  pound  eacli  of  sugar, 
coffee  and  bar-soap.  All  the  above  were  offered  at  cost  ''  to  close 
the  concern.'^  Every  thing  here  was  on  the  highest  key.  The 
town  was  only  two  months  old,  and  lots  were  commanding  Xew 
York  prices.  I  was  advised  to  embark  in  trade  ;  but  my  heart 
was  in  the  high-land,  and  the  next  morning  at  nine  o'clock,  we 
were  moving  for  the  interior,  a  party  of  a  dozen  Laving  hired 
a  six  mule-team. 


Cjia|itu  €mtht. 


SUTTEB'S  FOET— a  herd  of  cattle — "  LASSOENTG  "—RIO  DE  LOS  AMERICANOS— A  DIS- 
APPOINTED HUNTER — A  CAIFORNIAN  SERENADE — A  MXTLE  AND  HIS  RIDER — PARTING 
COMPANY— THIRST— SERENADES  SUPPORTED  BY    DIRECT  TAXATION— SIERRA  NEYADAS. 

We  drove  out  a  mile,  to  the  margin  of  an  extensive  plain, 
wliere  we  stopped  at  a  well,  filled  our  flasks,  and  moved  on, 
a  gentleman  wlio  had  a  friend  in  the  hospital  at  the  fort,  and 
myself,  going  in  advance  of  the  team.  The  fort  at  the  time  of 
its  construction,  was  an  extensive  work,  but  now  it  is  all  in 
ruins  excepting  the  inner  inclosure,  in  which  are  situated  the 
dwelling,  hospital  and  out-houses.  (See  Plate).  It  is  constructed 
of  adobes,  or  unburned  brick,  prepared  and  laid  up  by  Indian 
labor ;  and  I  will  here  remark,  that  the  Indians  on  the  ranchos 
in  California,  are  considered  as  stock,  and  are  sold  with  it  as 
cattle,  and  the  purchaser  has  the  right  to  work  them  on  the 
rancho,  or  take  them  into  the  mines.  They  are  extremely 
squalid  in  appearance,  and  in  the  most  abject  servitude.  I  have 
never  found  the  natives,  anywhere,  in  a  condition  so  degraded. 
We  found  the  sick  man  in  a  very  feeble  state,  having  been  in 
the  hospital  six  weeks  with  dysentery,  which  he  had  contracted 
in  the  mines ;  and  at  this  time  there  was  but  little  hope  of  his 
recovery. 

The  fort  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  an  extensive  plain,  three 
miles  from  Sacramento  city,  and  the  same  distance  from  the 
ferry  and  ford  of  the  American  river,  (Eio  Del  Americano).  It 
is  said  the  proprietor,  in  one  season,  harvested  nearly  two 
thousand  acres  of  wheat.  At  some  distance  back  of  the  fort 
we  saw  grazing  one  of  those  immense  herds  of  cattle  for  which 
California  has  been  celebrated,  (see  Plate,)  estimated  at  from 
two  to  three  thousand  head.  Before  the  gold  was  discovered 
hides  and  tallow  were  the  only  articles  of  export,  and  cattle 
were  raised  and  slaughtered  for  these  articles  alone.    They  run 


64:  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

in  large  lierds,  feeding  on  the  marshes  in  summer,  and  on  the 
plains  during  the  rainy  season,  kept  from  the  grain  bj  ditches 
and  embankments,  with  which  the  fields  are  surrounded.  Thej 
receive  no  care  from  the  proprietors,  and  consequently  are  shy, 
and  taken  only  with  the  "lasso."  These  are  made  of  raw  hide, 
cut  and  platted  like  a  whip-lash  about  fifty  feet  in  length,  and 
the  size  of  the  finger.  It  has  a  small  loop  or  pully  in  one  end, 
through  which  the  other  is  passed  and  drawn  up  to  a  coil  about 
five  feet  in  diameter.  The  other  end  is  then  fastened  to  the 
pommel  of  the  saddle ;  the  rider  taking  the  coil  in  his  right  hand 
coils  the  balance  to  the  same  size,  and  mounts. 

There  are  probably  no  better  horsemen  in  the  world,  not  ex- 
cepting the  Cossacks,  than  the  whites,  half-breeds,  and  some  of 
the  Indians  of  California.  It  has  been  said,  that  their  only 
homes  are  upon  the  backs  of  their  horses,  and  nothing  could 
possibly  exceed  the  spirit  and  reckless  daring  displayed  on  an 
occasion  like  this.  Their  dresses  are  extremely  picturesque.  A 
high  crowned  hat  with  a  black  glazed  covering,  trimmed  with 
a  golJ-lace  band  and  bell-buttons  ;  a  hunting  shirt  fastened  at 
the  waist  by  a  blue  or  red  sash,  and  a  belt  containing  a  brace  of 
pistols,  black  velvet  breeches,  open  at  the  side  of  the  leg,  the 
edges  trimmed  with  bell-buttons,  showing  the  white  drawers 
underneath.  Below  the  knee  the  leg  is  dressed  in  tanned  skins, 
which  are  wound  around  and  fastened  with  strings  ;  a  pair  of  boots 
with  a  pair  of  massive  iron  spurs,  trimmed  with  heavy  chains; 
the  hind  tree,  as  well  as  the  pommel  of  the  saddle,  rises  quite  ab- 
ruptly, enabling  one  to  retain  his  seat  either  at  a  rear  or  plunge 
of  his  horse ;  the  pommel  terminating  in  an  eagle's  head,  which 
prevents  the  lasso  from  slipping  from  the  neck.  The  trimming 
of  the  saddle  covers  the  entire  back  of  the  horse,  the  stirrups 
are  of  wood,  made  very  large,  with  a  leather  covering  in  front, 
protecting  the  foot  and  leg  from  mud,  brush,  &c. ;  the  bridle 
has  a  heavy  iron  bit  and  generally  but  one  rein. 

Thus  mounted,  a  party  of  fifteen  or  iwenty  will  approach  a 
herd  of  cattle,  horses,  or  elk,  as  the  case  may  be.  As  they  ap- 
proach the  herd  takes  fright,  one  snorts  and  starts,  which  is  a 
signal  for  all,  and  they  dash  away.  The  horsemen,  each  select- 
ing his  victim,  now  bear  down  upon  them  with  the  speed  of 
lightning.      The  herd,  now  aware  of  their  pursuit,  redouble 


'    'f^rn   $;  r  ***  ■  ?#% 


LASSOING.  65 

their  energies,  straining  every  nerve,  tlie  earth  fairly  quaking 
beneath  their  hoofs.  The  horses,  as  they  near,  display  as  much 
enthusiasm  as  their  riders,  and  seem  to  scorn  the  very  earth. 
They  are  now  upon  them.  The  herd,  frantic  and  dismayed,  be- 
gin to  scatter.  The  horse  now  sees  his  victim  and  bounds  with 
the  most  reckless  impetuosity.  The  horseman,  now  rising  in  his 
saddle,  throws  his  weight  into  the  left  stirrup,  and  with  his  right 
hand  swings  the  lasso  until  the  coil  is  sufficiently  open,  when 
it  flies  with  the  velocity  and  precision  of  an  arrow,  taking  effect 
around  the  horns  or  neck  of  the-victim.  The  horse,  understand- 
ing the  business,  now  slackens  his  speed,  and  prepares  for  the 
first  shock,  by  taking  a  bracing  position.  The  victim  strait- 
ens the  lasso,  bounds  into  the  air,  and  falls  to  the  ground.  The 
horseman  dismounts,  keeping  his  left  foot  in  the  stirrup,  to  help 
counteract  the  frantic  throes  of  the  victim  which  is  now  lacer- 
ated by  balls  from  his  pistols.  Sometimes  in  its  phrenzy  of  mad- 
ness the  victim  rushes  upon  his  pursuers,  causing  a  precipitate 
retreat,  and  not  unfrequently  both  horse  and  rider  fall  victims 
to  their  own  temerity. 

As  our  team  had  not  yet  arrived,  we  walked  on  one  mile  to 
Grime's  fort,  a  similar  structure,  and  I  believe  the  owner  is  a 
claimant  of  Sutter^s  claim.  We  walked  on  to  the  river,  pre- 
pared ourselves  and  waded  through.  On  the  opposite  side,  as 
we  ascended  the  bank,  we  found  ourselves  on  the  margin  of  a 
plain,  stretching  away  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  with  noth- 
ing but  an  occasional  oak  to  relieve  the  monotony.  On  the 
bank,  a  short  distance  above,  is  a  rancho,  to  which  belongs  the 
ferry,  used  only  during  high  water.  This  rancho  belongs  to  the 
Sutter  estate.  There  are  several  thousand  head  of  cattle  and 
horses  belonging  to  it,  and  about  two  hundred  head  of  Indians. 
The  soil  has  the  appearance  of  being  extremely  fertile,  but  at 
this  time  vegetation  was  parched  with  drought.  Sutter  claims 
most  of  the  country  drained  by  the  Sacramento  and  its  branches, 
which  is  all,  of  any  agricultural  value,  in  the  north  part  of  the 
State. 

Our  team  soon  came  up,  and  our  driver  informed  us  that  it 

was  ten  miles  to  the  next  water,  consequently  we  were  obliged 

to  encamp  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  notwithstanding  it  was  only 

3  o'clock,  p.  M.    We  had  averaged  one  mile  per  hour.    I  loaded. 

5 


66  CALIFORXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

my  rifle  and  went  down  tlie  river  to  hunt ;  I  had  promised  my- 
self a  supper  of  wild  duck,  but  tliey  proved  to  be,  on  that  par- 
ticular day,  all  crows,  and  I  compensated  myself  in  joart  by 
picking  a  quantity  of  grapes.  These  were  put  into  our  camp- 
kettle  and  served  u.p  for  supper.  We  thought  them  delicious, 
but  the  next  morning,  to  our  regret,  we  learned  that  we  had 
forgotten  to  sweeten  them.  Late  in  the  afternoon,  a  party  of 
Indians  started,  fully  equipped,  to  lasso  horses,  that  were  herd- 
ing on  the  bottom  lands  of  the  Sacramento,  six  miles  distant. 
They  rode  at  the  top  of  their  speed,  the  horse  and  rider  seeming 
moved  by  the  same  impulse.  At  night  we  spread  our  blankets 
in  the  open  air.  Some  one  of  the  party  had  been  throwing  out 
insinuations  reflecting  upon  the  character  of  the  grizzly  bear, 
that  were  said  to  abound  in  our  immediate  vicinity ;  not  only 
that  they  were  in  the  habit  of  ''  running  around  nights,"  but 
that  they  had  a  tendency  to  cannibalism.  One  of  the  party 
took  a  particular  fancy  to  my  rifle ;  whether  it  was  the  beauty 
of  the  piece,  his  predilection  for  the  owner,  or  the  fiery  appear- 
ance of  the  cap,  that  stole  his  affections,  I  am  not  prepared  to 
say.  He  folded  it  in  his  blanket  and  seemed  to  sleep  the  better 
for  it.  Soon  after  dark  the  California  serenade  commenced. 
The  performers  being  two  packs  of  wolves,  the  prairie  (coyotas) 
and  large  gray  wolf,  each  carrying  a  part,  and  in  the  latter  were 
incorporated  some  of  the  best  alto  voices  I  ever  heard.  We 
were  aroused  early  in  the  morning  by  a  member  of  the  above 
choir,  who  passed  over  the  foot  of  our  bed. 

After  breakfast  we  filled  our  flasks  with  water  from  the  river 
and  started.  Our  team  travelled  in  a  cloud  of  dust  which  hid 
them  from  our  view.  We  moved  on  in  advance.  The  day  was 
excessively  hot,  and  we  were  obliged  to  stop  often  for  our  team, 
in  order  to  refill  our  flasks.  After  traveling  five  miles  we  over- 
took an  ox-team  loaded,  and  several  mules  packed,  on  the  way 
to  the  mines.  (See  Plate).  There  were  also  several  teams  in  the 
distance,  moving  in  the  same  direction.  We  soon  saw  three 
men  mounted  on  mules,  coming  toward  us,  who  appeared  to 
be  returning  from  the  mines.  They  were  in  high  spirits,  gallop- 
ing along  a  little  off  the  main  track.  One  of  them,  in  order, 
probably,  to  show  a  proper  respect,  pulled  out  his  revolver  and 
fired.     His  mule,  taking  the  cue  from  his  master,  wishing  to 


THIEST.  67 

make  a  proper  demonstration  in  tlie  presence  of  his  fellow  mules, 
gave  a  few  peculiar  gyrations  with  his  tail,  threw  his  head  up, 
then  threw  it  down,  and  threw  his  heels  up,  and  at  this  particu- 
lar time  his  master  threw  his  heels  up,  and  they  parted  company. 
It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine  a  position  more  humble  than  the 
one  assumed  by  the  above  mentioned  master.  He  was  literally 
with  his  face  in  the  dust,  and  I  never  saw  a  more  peculiar  cast 
of  countenance.  If  I  had  not  seen  the  above  transaction,  but 
had  met  him  with  the  same  expression  of  countenance,  I  should 
have  thought  he  had  stolen  the  mule  he  was  on,  or  would  steal 
one  if  he  had  an  opportunity.  He  didn't  give  us  his  card,  but 
hurried  on  in  the  direction  of  Sacramento  city. 

We  found  the  country  a  continuous  plain  entirely  destitute 
of  water,  vegetation  parched,  and  nothing  showing  signs  of  life 
excepting  the  few  scattering  oaks,  an  occasional  wolf,  and  nu- 
merous gray  squirrels.  These  last  have  much  the  appearance  of 
the  gray  squirrels  of  the  forests  of  New  York  ;  but  they  burrow 
in  the  ground,  in  families.  We  exhausted  the  supply  of  water 
we  had  put  on  board,  and  were  suffering  with  thirst.  The  sun 
had  gained  the  meridian,  and  his  rays  were  almost  consuming. 
We  hurried  on  through  clouds  of  dust,  and  at  2  P.  M.  reached 
the  point  at  which  we  expected  to  find  water.  To  our  painful 
surprise,  the  spring  was  dry.  It  was  three  miles  to  the  next, 
and  we  were  almost  crazy  with  thirst.  It  was  no  time  for  delib- 
eration. There  was  no  alternative  but  to  push  on.  On  arriving 
at  the  next  spring,  we  found  a  puddle  containing  a  quart  of 
water,  the  surface  covered  with  yeUow  wasps.  We  were,  however, 
not  fastidious,  and  drank  all  excepting  the  wasps.'  It  again  filled 
and  was  again  drained,  until  all  had  replenished  their  flasks. 
We  here  took  dinner,  and  moved  on  until  about  5  P.  M,,  when, 
after  a  most  fatiguing  day's  journey,  we  reached  the  "half-way 
tent."  I  here  saw  a  herd  of  deer,  and  notwithstanding  the 
fatigues  of  the  day,  indulged  in  a  ''hunt,"  but  without  success. 

Here,  in  the  way  of  public  accommodations,  we  found  a  tent, 
luxuriating  in  the  name  of  the  "halfway  house."  A  rough 
board  running  the  entire  length  served  as  a  table,  the  guests 
sleeping  in  the  open  air  outside,  imder  the  protection  of  their 
own  blankets.     A  blacksmith  had  erected,  under  a  temporary 


68  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

covering  of  canvas,  his  anvil-block  and  forge,  and  was  busily 
engaged  in  repairing  a  damaged  veMcle.     (See  Plate.) 

Our  cook  is  busily  engaged  in  preparing  supper,  while  Mr. 
Cooper  and  myself  devote  the  few  remaining  moments  of  twi- 
light, to  sketching  the  surrounding  scene.  The  snowy  peaks  of 
the  Sierra  Xevada  are  seen  looming  up  in  the  distance,  now  gilded 
by  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun,  and  now  a  dark  imposing 
mass.  Our  teamster  has  just  returned  after  a  weary  search  for 
pasturage  for  our  mules.  I  am  visited  by  an  individual  whose 
personal  appearance  proclaims  his  own  history  more  eloquently 
than  it  can  be  described.  He  might  be  termed  one  of  the  oldest 
inhabitants,  having  taken  up  his  residence  in  the  country  before 
the  gold  excitement.  He  claimed  to  be  on  terms  of  intimacy  with 
the  delirium  tremens^  was  deaf,  had  the  rheumatism  and  scurvy, 
and  said  "he  was  not  very  well  himself.''  His  entire  system 
seemed  palsied  by  the  use  of  rum,  and  so  httle  control  had  he 
over  the  lineaments  of  his  face,  that  he  could  only  open  his  eyes 
by  opening  his  mouth  at  the  same  time ;  hence,  in  closing  his 
mouth  upon  his  pipe  (which  was  in  constant  use)  he  was  obliged 
to  part  the  lids  of  his  left  eye  with  his  thumb  and  finger ;  so 
confirmed  had  he  become  in  this  habit,  that  a  protuberance  had 
raised  upon  his  eyebrow  and  cheek-bone  by  the  appliance.  He 
was  extremely  loquacious  and  imparted  much  valuable  informa- 
tion gratis,  constantly  keeping  that  piercing  eye  upon  our  brandy 
bottle.  Mr.  Cooper,  who  was  seated  upon  a  log  near,  cast  an 
inquisitive  glance  upon  him,  and  I  tried  to  detect  a  family  resem- 
blance between  the  two.  I*svas  unable  to  learn,  however,  that 
they  were  in  the  least  connected,  nor  am  I  prepared  to  say  that 
their  present  acquaintance  ripened  into  an  intimacy.  Two  ami- 
able donkeys  are  standing  patiently  under  their  loads  while 
their  masters  are  extracting  "vegetables"  from  a  demijohn. 

We  were  serenaded,  as  usual,  during  the  night.  We  had  been 
tinder  the  impression  that  the  music  was  gratis,  but  learned,  on 
this  occasion,  that  it  was  supported  by  direct  taxation^  one  of  the 
worthies  ha^-ing  taken  a  ham  from  our  camp-kettle  during  the 
night.  In  addition  to  this,  I  had  the  pleasure,  in  the  morning, 
of  adding  a  note  to  his  scale,  with  which  he  seemed  so  much 
pleased,  that  he  went  off  repeating  it,  until  he  was  out  of  sight. 


SIEEKA  NEVADA.  69 

We  took  an  early  start  and  found  the  country  more  rolling,  with 
an  occasional  pine  tree.  It  was  evident  that  we  were  ascending 
into  a  more  elevated  region,  and  from  the  higher  points  we  could 
plainly  see  the  Sierra  Nevada,  their  slopes  pointing  out  the 
location  of  the  river  to  which  we  were  journeying — the  north 
branch  of  the  American  river.  The  country  abounded  in  mas- 
sive rocks,  sometimes  piled  up  in  ledges,  and  sometimes  forming 
the  entire  summits  of  the  hills. 


Cjiaptn  €|irtntitli. 


VENISON— FIRST  VIEW  OF  THE  GOLD  REGIONS— SURROUNDING  SCENERY— "  MORMOiN  i>AR  ' 
—A  POCKET— MY  MACHINE  IN  MOTION— CERTAINTY  OF  SUCCESS— FIRST  DINNER— 
"  PROSPECTING  "—A  GOOD  "  LEAD  "—DISAPPOINTED  MINERS— A  NEW  COMPANION— A 
HIGHER  POINT  ON  THE  RIVER — VOLCANOES — SNOWY  MOUNTAIN — AUBURN — LONELY 
ENCAMPMENT. 

We  passed  the  night  in  the  open  air,  and  the  next  morning 
at  eight  o'clock  arrived  at  an  encampment  of  teamsters  who 
were  jnst  dressing  a  deer  and  preparing  breakfast.  (See  Plate.) 
The  tree  nnder  which  they  were  encamped  was  on  fire,  on  one 
side,  to  its  very  top — the  other  supporting  a  luxuriant  branch. 
The  coffee-pot  is  on  the  fire  and  the  cook  stands  by,  frying-pan 
in  hand,  waiting  for  the  steak.  At  the  left  the  cattle  are  seen 
feeding ;  one  of  them,  however,  having  resigned  himself  to  the 
"  coyotas."  In  the  distance  is  seen  a  herd  of  deer  bounding 
away  over  the  hill.  On  the  right  are  seen  teams  wending  their 
way  to  the  banks  of  the  "  North  Fork"  of  the  American  river — 
freighted  with  pro\dsions  and  utensils  for  mining.  It  will  be  seen 
that  we  have  ascended  into  a  more  elevated  region  since  leaving 
the  last  Plate.  The  ascent  has  been  gradual — almost  impercep- 
tible— still  everything  indicates  our  elevation. 

At  ten  we  arrived  at  a  junction  in  the  roads,  four  miles  from 
out  point  of  destination ;  we  remained  here  until  after  dinner ; 
we  now  felt  that  we  were  about  to  try  the  realities  of  that  for 
which  we  had  left  home  and  friends,  traveled  thousands  of 
miles,  and  endured  hardships  and  privations,  the  very  thought 
of  which  makes  the  heart  sick — we  felt  a  degree  of  anxiety,  as 
a  few  hours  would  probably  decide  whether  we  were  soon  to 
return  to  our  friends  or  endure  a  long  period  of  hardships  in 
the  mines.  After  dinner  we  were  again  under  way,  and  soon, 
leaving  the  main  road,  we  were  running  in  the  direction  of  the 


MORMON  BAR,  71 

river.  The  road  was  good;  but  little  timber;  and  the  soil 
appearing  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  It  was  soon  evident 
that  we  were  in  close  proximity  to  the  river — the  ravines  all 
tending  in  the  same  direction  ;  frequent  rocks  of  enormous  size, 
and  from  the  more  elevated  points  we  could  see  a  range  of 
mountains  rising  on  the  other  side.  Having  left  the  team 
behind,  we  pressed  forward,  eager  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  river 
and  those  employed  in  the  golden  pursuit ;  we  soon  arrived 
among  the  pines  which  stud  the  banks,  but  were  still  obliged 
to  climb  a  slight  ascent  forming  the  immediate  bank. 

We  soon  gained  the  summit,  and  stood  enraptured  with  the 
scene  arqund  us.  The  river,  saluting  our  ears  with  its  restless 
murmurs,  meandered  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  which  had 
lifted  us  a  mile  above  it.  The  banks  were  dotted  with  tents 
and  teeming  with  the  Lilipiltian  owners.  On  the  opposite  side 
were  mountains  piled  one  above  the  other,  terminating  in  a 
range  covered  with  eternal  snow,  presenting  a  scene  of  grand- 
eur and  sublimity  nothing  can  excel.  The  whitened  peaks, 
reflecting:  the  sun,  resembled  the  domes  of  some  vast  cathedral. 
Looking  back,  the  entire  valley  of  the  Sacramento  was  stretched 
out  before  us,  bounded  by  the  coast  range  of  mountains,  beyond 
which  we  could  look  upon  the  Pacific  ocean — presenting  a  scene 
which,  in  extent,  diversity,  and  grandeur  is  rarely  if  ever 
equalled.  In  the  valley  we  could  see  extensive  fertile  plains, 
deserts  of  white  sand,  marshes,  numerous  lakes,  dense  forests, 
marking  the  water  courses ;  and  no  doubt,  with  a  glass  of  suflS.- 
cient  power,  could  have  seen  herds  of  elk,  deer,  antelope,  and 
wild  cattle.  There  is  but  little  vapor  in  the  atmosphere  at  this 
season  of  the  year,  and  the  vision  is  almost  unbounded.  Our 
team  soon  came  up,  and  we  prepared  to  descend  the  mountain, 
which  was  very  precipitous,  and  the  only  place  within  ten  miles 
at  which  the  river  can  be  reached  with  a  team.  Our  teamster 
chained  the  wheel  and  with  much  difficulty  descended  the  first 
step.  He  having  been  engaged  in  the  same  capacity  during  the 
Mexican  war,  managed  the  descent  with  much  skill,  and  reached 
the  base  without  accident. 

We  found  ourselves  at  the  '' Mormon  Bar,"  forty-five  miles 
from  Sacramento  city.  We  pitched  our  tent  and  cooked  dinner 
after  which  I  paid  the  teamster  seventy-five  dollars  for  three 


72  CALIFOENIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

hundred  pounds  freight  and  started  off  to  visit  tlie  miners.  I 
well  remember  that  as  I  was  going  down  the  side  of  the  canon 
I  saw  a  hole  in  a  rock,  which  I  thought  such  an  excellent 
"pocket"  that  I  resolved  to  pay  it  a  secret  visit,  not  doubting 
that  it  contained  a  rich  deposit.  I  afterward  learned  that  the 
*' pockets"  in  California  had  not  all  been  filled,  and  the  one 
above  mentioned  was  never  picked  to  my  knowledge.  I  found 
a  great  many  in  eager  pursuit,  some  digging  up  the  dirt,  carry- 
ing it  in  buckets,  or  tin  pans,  and  throwing  it  into  the  rocker, 
while  their  companions  would  rock  the  machine  and  pour  in 
water,  which  would  wash  out  the  dirt,  the  gold  being  retained 
by  rifl9.es,  or  cleats,  in  the  bottom.  The  first  machine  I  saw  in 
operation  was  being  rocked  by  Mr.  Devoe,  and  fed  by  Gen. 
"Winchester  and  his  brother — all  of  New  York.  The  two  last 
named  were  in  the  water  knee  deep,  getting  dirt  from  the  bot- 
tom of  a  hole.  I  loaned  them  a  late  New  York  paper,  and  we 
were  soon  acquainted.  They  were  about  to  take  the  gold  from 
their  machine  and  wished  me  to  stay.  This  was  just  what  I 
wished  to  do,  and,  after  a  five  minutes'  detention,  they  raised 
the  screen,  exhibiting  the  bottom  of  the  rocker,  which  was  cov- 
ered with  gold.  I  started  for  the  tent,  and  it  seemed  that  every 
rock  had  a  yellow  tinge,  and  even  our  camp  kettle,  that  I  had 
thought  in  the  morning  the  most  filthy  one  I  had  ever  seen, 
now  appeared  to  be  gilded — and  I  thought  with  more  than  one 
coat.  During  the  night,  yellow  was  the  prevailing  color  in  my 
dreams.  In  the  morning,  hiring  out  two  of  the  men  tempora- 
rily at  ten  dollars  per  day,  I  hired  a  machine  at  two  dollars  per 
day,  took  the  other  man,  went  a  short  distance  above  Gen. 
Winchester's  "lead"  and  soon  found  myself  in  a  "lead"  which 
I  thought  much  better  than  his. 

"Bent"  rocked  and  I  put  in  the  dirt.  We  resolved  to  run 
through  twenty  buckets  before  raising  the  screen,  and  soon  the 
perspiration  began  to  flow.  He  had  a  strong  arm  and  I  exerted 
every  nerve  to  keep  the  machine  supplied.  The  dirt  would 
pass  through  the  screen  almost  instantly,  leaving  the  pebbles 
which  he  would  scan  very  minutely,  but  finding  no  large  pieces 
of  gold  consoled  himself  with  the  thought,  "  the  smaller  the 
more  of  them."  But  now,  after  an  hour's  incessant  labor,  we 
were  about  to  finish  our  first  task,  and  had  in  the  machine  as 


FIEST  DAY  IN  THE  MIKES.  73 

mucli  as  we  thouglit  it  prudent  to  have  at  any  one  time ;  I  stop- 
ped digging  but  mj  heart  kept  on.  The  heat  was  most  intense, 
the  perspiration  gushing  from  every  pore .  Bent  was  in  a  fever 
of  excitement.  He  was  naturally  of  a  sandy  complexion,  but 
now  his  face  added  a  deeper  tinge  to  his  red  flannel  shirt  collar. 
Our  reward  was  in  our  machine,  and  after  putting  in  several 
dippers  of  water  we  raised  the  screen.  It  did  not  look  as  we 
expected  it  would ;  there  was  any  quantity  of  dirt  and  some 
gold. 

We  were  not  altogether  satisfied  with  the  result;  still,  we 
had  just  commenced,  and,  perhaps,  were  not  suf&ciently  near 
the  granite.  Our  ''lead"  was  the  best  one  on  the  bar — we 
hnew  by  the  looks  of  it — and  the  next  twenty  buckets  must 
show  a  different  result.  Our  ambition  was  again  up,  and  our 
machine  in  motion,  and,  if  possible,  with  increased  energy. 
After  running  through  several  buckets  of  dirt,  we  raised  the 
screen.  There  was  not  much  gold  on  the  top,  but  there  was 
some;  and  we  worked  on,  thinking  that  we  had  not  yet  reached 
the  best  part  of  our  lead.  I  noticed  that  after  raising  the  screen, 
the  machine  was  rocked  with  less  energy ;  and  it  seemed  to  add  to 
the  weight  of  my  pick-axe.  We  resolved  to  visit  the  General. 
They  had  done  a  fine  morning's  work,  and  were  in  high  spirits. 
They  told  us  of  many  who  had  opened  "leads,"  and  worked 
them  two  or  three  days  without  success,  when  some  one  else 
would  step  in,  and  make  a  fortune  the  first  day.  This  was 
precisely  our  case.  We  had  got  our  "lead"  almost  opened, 
and  if  we  should  step  out,  some  one  would  step  in,  and  get  the 
fortune.  This  we  were  not  disposed  to  do.  We  had  got  on 
track,  and  were  determined  not  to  give  way  to  any  one.  We 
looked  up,  but  there  was  no  one  in  our  "  lead."  On  our  way 
back  we  discovered  many  natural  advantages  that  our  "lead" 
had  over  the  General's,  and  an  even  exchange  would  have  been 
to  us  no  object. 

Our  machine  was  again  in  motion.  The  sun  had  now  almost 
gained  the  meridian.  The  heat  was  excessive.  Bent's  red 
flannel  was  outside  of  his  pantaloons,  dripping  with  perspira- 
tion. My  blue  one  was  in  the  same  condition.  I  would  think 
of  those  abandoned  "leads,"  and  wish  I  had  two  buckets.  He 
would  think  of  them,  flourish  his  dipper,  and  rock  the  machine, 


74  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

until  its  very  sides  would  quake.  We  finally  prepared  to  ad- 
journ for  dinner,  took  out  the  screen,  put  the  contents  of  our 
machine  in  a  pan,  and  commenced  to  wash  out  the  dirt,  which 
required  some  time,  then  walked  up  to  dinner.  On  our  arrival 
at  the  tent,  we  weighed  the  gold,  and  found  it  worth  one  dollar. 

As  it  was  our  first  day  in  the  mines,  we  resolved  to  dine  on 
pork,  a  favorite  dish  in  California.  We  cut  a  quantity  into 
slices,  put  it  into  the  frying-pan,  laying  on  it  a  quantity  of  sea- 
biscuit,  filling  the  pan  with  water,  and  covering  it  vnih  a  tin 
plate.  We  kept  it  on  the  fire  until  the  water  evaporated — it 
W&5  then  ready  for  use.  Our  coffee,  in  the  mean  time,  was  boiled 
in  the  tin  coffee-pot.  Seating  ourselves  on  rocks  in  front  of 
the  tent,  we  expressed  our  appreciation  of  the  swine  tribe  in 
unmeasured  terms.  We  take  a  respite  of  an  hour,  and  return 
to  our  labor.  We  are  anxious  to  get  down  to  the  granite, 
as  we  are  sui^e  of  finding  there  a  rich  deposite.  Tovrards  even- 
ing we  struck  the  granite,  and  were  within  reach  of  a  fortune, 
deposited  here  by  nature  for  our  express  benefit.  As  it  was  late, 
we  resolved  to  wash  down  what  we  had  in  the  machine,  and 
prepare  for  a  successful  effort  on  the  following  day.  On 'our 
arrival  at  the  tent,  we  found  "Harry"  and  ''Sam,"  stretched 
out  on  the  ground,  groaning  with  fatigue,  declaring  that  they 
had  never  worked  so  hard  before,  nor  would  they  again.  They 
had  seen  enough  of  the  mines,  and  were  determined  to  return 
to  Sacramento.  After  telling  them  of  the  brilliant  success  that 
was  about  to  attend  our  efforts,  they  agreed  to  remain  another 
day.  We  had  pork  for  supper,  and  spent  the  night  in  dreams 
of  luxury.  After  an  early  breakfast  we  were  again  at  our 
"lead."  We  were  particular  to  scrape  the  granite,  as  w^e 
uncovered  it,  and  after  running  through  ten  buckets,  we  raised 
the  screen  ;  to  our  surprise,  we  were  doing  no  better  than  on  the 
previous  day.  This  we  could  not  account  for.  The  only 
solution  was,  that  the  gold  had  never  been  there,  and  why,  we 
could  not  divine.  It  had  the  same  appearance  as  the  General's 
lead,  which  was  paying  the  three  from  fifty  to  eighty  dollars 
per  day. 

We  worked  on  for  some  time,  when  "Bent"  went  up  to  cook 
the  dinner,  (we  had  resolved  to  have  pork,)  and  I  took  the 
pick,  shovel,  and  pan,  and  went  "  prospecting."     After  walking 


SECOND   DAY  IN  THE  MINES.  75 

some  distance,  I  found  a  place  wliich  combined,  as  I  tlionglit, 
every  indication  of  a  rich  deposit,  and  my  only  surprise  was, 
that  it  had  not  been  discovered  before.  It  was  on  the  lower 
side  of  a  large  rock,  which  must,  at  high  water,  break  the  cur- 
rent, forming  an  eddy  below,  where  the  gold  must  settle.  On 
discovering  a  "  lead,"  one  has  only  to  leave  his  pick,  and  his 
title  is  indisputable.  I  left  my  implements,  and  hurried  up  to 
the  tent.  After  dinner  w^e  carried  our  machine  to  the  spot,  and 
were  soon  in  a  profuse  perspiration.  "Bent"  would  frequently 
lift  the  screen,  and  it  was  very  apparent  that  the  prospect 
beneath  was  not  brilliant.  He  had  become  a  kind  of  ther- 
mometer to  our  success,  and  at  every  inspection  his  energy 
would  lag,  and  my  bucket  would  grow  the  heavier.  Late  in 
the  afternoon  we  washed  down  our  half-day's  work,  and  went 
up.  Harry  and  Sam  were  writhing  with  fatigue.  Harry 
had  over-heated  himself;  Sam,  being  a  mulatto,  could  endure 
the  heat, — but  his  muscles  had  lost  their  tension,  and  every 
bone  was  cracked.  He  was  willing  to  stay,  if  I  wished  him  to, 
but  Harry  was  bound  for  Sacramento.  Bent  said  but  little, 
still  I  could  plainly  see  a  cloud  in  his  horizon.  He  had  an  im- 
pediment in  his  speech ;  and  when  I  asked  him  what  he  thought 
of  the  prospect,  he  got  into  close  proximity  to  some  very  hard 
words,  and,  with  great  magnanimity,  wished  the  mines  in  the 
possession  of  an  individual  of  brimstone  notoriety,  whose  name 
I  will  not  mention.  After  supper,  we  weighed  our  afternoon's 
work,  and  had  seventy-five  cents.  The  man  for  whom  Haiary 
and  Sam  had  been  working,  had  taken  possession  of  a  bai",. 
which  was  paying  him  well.  As  a  general  thing,  the  bars  had 
been  '-prospected,"  and  the  parts  that  would  pay  taken  possession 
of.  There  were,  however  private  "leads"  opened  daily,  from 
which  something  could  be  made.  Harry  and  Sam  were  too  sore 
to  start  down  the  next  day,  consequently  they  resolved  to  rest; 
and  Bent  was  willing  to  work  the  machine  another  day.  As 
for  myself,  I  must  confess  that  the  camp-kettle  had  lost  one  coat 
of  its  gilding,  and  the  rocks  were  about  the  same  color  as  those 
in  the  States. 

"We  took  an  early  start,  and  devoted  an  hour  to  "prospect- 
ing." This  time  we  were  more  successful,  we  found  a  "lead" 
from  which  we  got  twenty  particles  of  gold  in  the  first  pan-full. 


76  CALIFOKNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

We  soon  liad  our  macMne  on  the  spot.  As  we  were  placing  it 
several  miners  passed  on  tlie  way  to  their  work.  They  all  look- 
ed, we  thought^  as  if  they  considered  us  the  most  fortunate  of 
men,  and  we  detected  a  lurking  envy  in  their  expression.  As 
soon  35  they  left,  our  machine  was  put  in  motion ;  we  now  had 
no  doubt  as  to  the  result,  and  after  running  through  ten  buckets 
of  dirt  we  raised  the  screen,  but,  to  our  astonishment,  there  was 
not  a  particle  of  gold  to  be  seen.  This  was  beyond  our  com- 
prehension. We  could  not  conceive  of  a  more  convenient  place 
for  gold  to  deposite  than  this  particular  one,  and  determined  n6ji, 
to  abandon  it  until  we  had  reached  the  granite.  This  we  reach- 
ed, and  toiled  on  until  noon,  when  we  emptied  our  machine, 
and  had  two  dollars'  worth  of  gold.  We  adjourned  to  dinner, 
and  learned  that  a  team  had  just  arrived  and  was  to  return  to 
Sacramento  city  the  next  day.  Harry,  Sam,  and  Bent  imme- 
diately resolved  to  take  passage.  They  had  had  their  expenses 
paid  to  California,  and  were  to  work  under  the  direction  of  the 
Company,  and  have  a  portion  of  the  proceeds.  They,  no  doubt, 
considered  the  dividends  too  small  in  proportion  to  the  labor. 
I  determined  to  make  a  more  thorough  trial  of  the  mines,  and 
not  wishing  to  be  encumbered  sold  the  provisions,  cooking  uten- 
sils, &;c.,  hired  the  tent  carried  back,  and  the  next  morning  the 
teamster  had  every  individual  that  accompanied  our  mule- team 
up,  excepting  a  young  man  who  had  been  sleeping  on  the 
ground  near  our  tent  and  myself.  They  all,  no  doubt,  had  the 
same  exalted  opinion  of  the  mines,  and  returned  with  purses 
equally  well  filled.  Harry  and  Sam  had  earned  $40  beside 
what  Bent  and  myself  had  earned.  This,  together  with  what  I 
received  for  provisions,  &c.,  amounted  to  $200,  which  I  put  into 
the  hands  of  Harry  to  give  to  one  of  the  firm,  who  was  at  Sac- 
ramento city. 

I  was  now  alone.  The  two  companions  of  the  young  man 
spoken  of  above,  had  left  him,  and  circumstances  seemed  to 
throw  us  in  each  other's  way,  and  makes  us  companions.  His 
name  was  Tracy.  He  and  his  companions,  Scillinger  and  Hicks, 
were  from  Sante  Fe ;  they  had  crossed  the  mountains,  eaten 
their  proportion  of  mule  steak,  and  endured  every  conceivable 
hardship.  We  were  at  once  friends.  We  determined  to  gain  a 
higher  point  on  the  river,  and,  if  possible,  find  a  place  where 


AUBURN".  77 

our  efforts  would  be  more  liberally  rewarded.  We  consequently 
filled  a  small  camp-kettle  with  pork  and  hard  bread,  rolled  up 
our  blankets,  to  which  Ave  lashed  our  pi^kand  shovel,  and  slung 
them  over  our  shoulders.  Our  camp-kettle,  coffee-pot,  rifles, 
and  tin-pans,  in  hand,  we  set  out  on  our  expedition.  We  first 
ascended  the  mountain,  and  when  at  the  summit  stopped  to  view 
the  magnificent  scenes  around  us ;  the  heat  was  intense ;  the 
thermometer  stood  at  100^  ;  still  we  were  looking  upon  a  range 
of  mountains  shrouded  in  eternal  winter. 

Our  route  lay  over  a  succession  of  mountains,  the  peaks  of 
which  bore  unmistakable  signs  of  volcanic  formation,  being  cov- 
ered with  lava.  Our  journey  was  a  most  fatiguing  one,  and  at 
noon,  having  gained  an  elevated  xDoint,  we  sat  down  to  rest.  I 
here  noticed,  for  the  first  time,  a  phenomenon  which  is  of  frequent 
occurrence  during  the  summer  months.  A  heavy  white  cloud 
resembling  a  bank  of  snow  rises  from  the  Snowy  Mountains 
(Sierra  Nevada,)  and  after  gaining  a  certain  altitude  passes 
off  to  the  south,  and  is  succeeded  by  another.  After  disposing 
of  a  certain  quantity  of  hard  bread  and  pork,  and  kissing  our 
flask,  we  stretched  ourselves  out  on  the  ground  under  the  shade 
of  a  pine  tree,  and  were  soon  in  the  embrace  of  Morpheus. 
In  one  hour  we  were  again  under  way,  and  at  3  o'clock,  p.  M., 
arrived  at  the  ''  dry  diggings,"  (now  Auburn.)  This  was  a  place 
of  three  tents,  situated  on  the  main  road  leading  to  the  Oregon 
trail,  which  it  intersects  twenty  miles  above.  These  mines  were 
not  being  worked  to  any  extent,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  water. 
There  were  a  few,  however,  engaged  in  carrying  dirt,  a  mile  on 
their  backs,  and  washing  it  at  a  puddle,  in  town.  It  was  very 
uncertain  business.  The  gold  found  here  was  in  larger  particles 
than  in  the  river  "diggings,"  but  there  was  a  much  greater  un- 
certainty in  obtaining  it,  some  toiling  for  weeks  without  making 
a  dollar,  and  sometimes  finding  pieces  worth  from  $50  to  $500. 
The  gold  has  the  appearance  of  having  been  thrown  up  in  a 
molten  state,  perhaps  during  a  volcanic  eruption,  and  dropped 
into  the  earth. 

After  an  hour's  detention  we  were  again  under  way,  and  after 
traveling  sometime  over  mountains,  changed  our  course,  wish- 
ing to  reach  the  river.  After  an  hour  of  the  most  fatiguing 
effort  we  were  on  a  brink,  with  the  river  beneath  our  feet,  but 


78  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

SO  distant  that  it  had  the  appearance  of  a  meandering  pencil  mark. 
We  conld,  howeyer,  hear  its  subdued  murmuring  as  it  struggled 
through  its  rocky  channel.     After  a  short  rest,  we  commenced 
the  descent,  which  we  found  extremely  precipitous,  requiring  the 
greatest  caution  and  attended  with  the  most  painful  exertions. 
Sometimes  losing  our  foothold,  we  would  slide  down  until  we 
could  catch  by  the  shrubs  for  support,  and  at  others,  be  precipi- 
tated  to  the  bottom  of  the  step.  We  at  length  reached  the  base  and 
found  ourselves  on  a  small  bar.     It  being  after  sunset,  we  kin- 
dled a  fire,  steeped  some  green  tea,  broiled  a  quantity  of  pork, 
by  putting  it  on  the  end  of  a  stick  and  holding  it  in  the  fire,  and 
after  toasting  the  sea-biscuit,  we  sat  down  on  the  rocks  and  paid 
our  cook  a  most  flattering  compliment.     I  must  confess  that  I 
never  felt  the  gnawings  of  hunger  more  keenly  than  on  this  oc- 
casion, nor  did  I  ever  more  fully  appreciate  the  influence  of 
green  tea.     We  were  much  fatigued,  and  after  removing  some  of 
the  larger  stones,  spread  our  blankets  and  prepared  for  sleep. 
We  were  strangers,  never  having  spoken  until  a  few  hours 
previous;   yet,  having  been  thrown  together  by  chance  in  a 
strange  land,  we  felt  a  mutual  interest  that  could  scarcely  have 
been  stronger,  had  we  been  brothers.     I  must  here  say,  that  I 
was  associated  with  Mr.  Tracy  for  the  succeeding  three  months, 
and  no  brother  could  have  been  more  attentive  or  sympathetic. 
Soon  after  we  were  blanketed,  the  moon  gained  a  suflQ.cient  alti- 
tude to  look  down  into  the  canon  upon  us.     Our  situation  was 
novel  in  the  extreme.     The  mountains  rose  on  either  side  to  the 
height  of  more  than  a  mile,  almost  perpendicular.     The  moon 
and  stars  looking  in  upon  us  with  unusual  brilliancy.     The  dis- 
tant and  incessant  howl  of  numerous  packs  of  wolves,  the  rest- 
less gurgling  and  chafing  of  the  river,  as  it  struggled  angrily 
through  its  rocky  channel,  our  lonely  and  isolated  situation,  all 
conspired  to  generate  strange  thoughts,  and  to  bring  up  strange, 
and  often  unpleasant  associations.     To  look  at  the  moon  and 
think  that  our  friends  might  be,  at  that  moment,  looking  at  the 
same  orb,  and  thinking  of  us — thiniving,  perhaps,  that  we  were 
already  preparing  to  return  home,  having   accomplished  our 
most  sanguine  expectations ;  then  to  look  at  the  reality,  think 
of  the  dark  prospect  ahead,  of  the  time  that  must  intervene  be- 
fore we  could  think  of  returning,  of  the  innumerable  hardships 


LONELY  ENCAMPMENT.  79 

and  privations  that  still  awaited  us,  a  gloom  imperceptibly  stole 
over  our  imaginations,  and  hung  upon  our  thoughts  like  an  incu- 
bus. But  sleep  soon  dispell©^  our  melancholy,  and  wild  fancy 
restored  us  to  our  friends. 


CjiaptBr  /nnrtuntli 


A  SEA    CAPTArM  AS  COOK — A  K^D  OF  DEER — ^RETURN  TO  MORMOX  BAR — KEEPIXG  HOUSE 

— OUR    ilACHINE     IN     MOTIOX— $1,500    IN    ONE    HOUR— AN    ELOPEMENT— WASH     DAT 

SPORTING — PROSPECTING DISCOVERY    OF     GOLD — EXCITEMENT — FATIGUE — THE     CAKES 

"hurried  up"' — INCENTIVES  TO  EXERTION — CANALLING   A   BAR. 

We  rose  in  the  morning  with  renewed  vigor,  and  after  break- 
fast, thoroughly  prospecting  our  bar,  (see  Plate,)  we  moved 
on  up  the  river.  We  found  the  passage  in  many  places  ex- 
tremely difficult,  obliging  us  to  climb  precipices  to  the  height 
of  two  to  three  hundred  feet.  We  examined  closely,  but  found 
no  place  sufficiently  rich  to  pay  for  working.  At  about  12  ir. 
we  arrived  at  a  bar  that  was  being  worked  by  a  company  that 
had  recently  purchased  it  of  another  company  for  $2,500. 

Their  labor  was  attended  with  fair  success,  but  they  did  not 
succeed  in  making  wages  after  paying  the  above  sum.  There 
is  a  law  established  by  custom  in  the  mines,  which  allows  a  man 
a  certain  space,  generally  ten  feet,  extending  across  the  river. 
It  is  by  this  law  that  companies  take  possession  of  bars,  and  their 
claim  is  never  disj)uted,  as  it  is  a  privilege  of  which  all  wish  to 
avail  themselves.  We  ascended  the  river  still  higher,  but  found 
nothing  to  encourage  us.  We  deliberated  some  time  and  con- 
cluded to  reascend  the  mountain.  We  returned  to  the  encamp- 
ment of  the  above-mentioned  bar,  where  we  found  an  old  man,  a 
sea  captain,  acting  as  cook.  They  had  no  tent,  but  slept  in  the 
open  air.  The  cook  had  a  large  camp-kettle  hanging  on  a  tripod 
under  a  live  oak-tree,  cooking  pork  and  beans,  and  preparing 
dinner  for  thirty  men.  It  seemed  a  strange  occupation  for  a 
sea  captain  ;  still,  it  had  not  yet  lost  its  novelty,  and  he  seemed 
to  enjoy  it  much.  I  noticed,  however,  that  he  would  frequently 
hitch  up  his  pantaloons  and  look  "  aloft."    After  resting  an  hour 


:>sf. 

G.V    COfrPFfl    DEL 


ON'&TONE    BYJ.OAMErtON 


JfC.TRACY    AND    /WYSELP    PROSPtCimO. 


RETURN  TO   MORMON  BAR.  81 

we  went  to  a  ravine,  filled  our  flasks  with  spring- water  and  com- 
menced ascending  the  mountain.  On  arriving  near  the  summit 
we  came  upon  a  herd  of  deer,  and  wounded  one,  but  did  not 
succeed  in  capturing  it.  We  soon  found  ourselves  again  in 
view  of  the  Snowy  Mountains  and  resolved  to  encamp  for  the 
night.  After  partaking  of  a  sumptuous  meal,  (pork  and  hard 
bread)  we  again  reclined  on  the  couch  of  nature,  her  sweetest 
incense  borne  by  the  gentle  breeze  to  our  sleeping  senses. 
(The  dust  was  blowing  furiously.) 

We  took  an  early  start  on  our  return  to  Mormon  Bar,  and 
arrived  in  the  evening  much  fatigued.  We  resolved  to  make 
an  effort  here  at  mining,  and  back  it  up  with  any  amount  of 
energy.  We  purchased  a  machine  and  made  all  the  prelimi- 
nary arrangements  in  the  evening,  preparatory  to  a  start  at  an 
early  hour.  We  had  no  tent,  consequently  resolved  to  rent  a 
suit  of  apartments  from  Nature,  and  looking  about  we  found  a 
large  rock  on  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  one  hundred  feet  above 
the  river.  The  place  was  secluded  and  pleasant.  In  front  of 
the  rock,  on  the  mountain  side,  was  a  kitchen  sufficiently  large 
for  our  family,  including  the  sleeping  apartment.  The  space 
was  shaded  by  a  small  oak  tree ;  and,  growing  against  the  rock, 
were  two  other  trees.  Behind  the  rock  was  a  space  about 
twelve  feet  square,  well  shaded  and  was  to  serve* as  our  dress- 
ing-room. A  person  to  jump  out  of  the  back  window  would 
land  in  the  river. 

Tracy  had  volanteered  to  act  as  cook,  and  in  order  to  have 
things  in  harmony,  I  called  him  wife,  and  he  was  perhaps  as  well 
calculated  to  get  along  under  the  circumstances  as  any  one  I 
could  have  got.  As  to  kitchen  furniture,  he  cared  more  for  the 
useful  than  ornamental,  and  was  calculated  to  manage  the 
domestic  affairs  with  the  strictest  economy.  We  had  a  small 
camp-kettle,  a  coffee-pot,  and  two  tin  plates ;  I  had  a  knife  and 
fork  and  tin  cup.  Tracy  had  a  pocket-knife,  and  a  water-tight 
Indian  basket,  which  served  him  as  a  coffee-cup.  I  slung  my 
hammock  to  the  trees  that  grew  against  the  rock ;  he  spread  his 
blanket  on  the  ground,  a  few  feet  distant,  and  we  were  keeping 
house. 

We  arose  in  the  morning  full  of  energy,  and  didn't  think 
there  were  any  two  individuals  in  that  "section"  destined  tO' 
6 


82  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

accomplisli  more  than  ourselves.  "We  sliouldered  our  imple- 
ments and  were  soon  on  the  margin  of  the  river.  As  we  were 
placing  our  machine,  a  miner  came  along  and  informed  ns  that, 
on  the  previous  day,  a  Mr.  Eccle  had  got  out  in  one  hour 
§1,500.  We  had  suspected  all  along  that  there  were  rich 
deposits  in  the  vicinity,  and  now  our  suspicions  were  confirmed. 
Our  machine  was  soon  in  operation,  and  as  the  $1,500  would 
flash  across  our  imagination,  I  would  strike  my  pick  the  deeper. 
Tracy  would  flourish  his  dipper,  strike  up  some  familiar  air, 
and  the  cradle  would  rock  as  if  propelled  by  the  furies.  If 
there  had  been  anything  in  it  except  dirt  Tracy  would  have  had 
an  accompaniment  to  his  song.  We  washed  through  ten  buck- 
ets, and  raised  the  screen ;  it  did  not  look  very  encouraging — 
we  run  through  ten  more — Tracy  thought  there  wasn^t  quite  as 
much  as  there  was  hefore — he  began  to  lag,  and  I  must  confess  I 
was  obliged  to  recur  often  to  the  $1,500  to  keep  the  necessary 
elasticity  in  my  suspenders ;  we  stopped  a  moment  to  rest,  and 
speculate  on  the  probable  appearance  of  the  spot  where  the 
above  sum  was  obtained ;  we  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it 
must  have  looked  very  like  the  spot  we  were  then  at  work  in. 
Our  machine  was  again  in  motion,  and  with  renewed  energy ; 
Tracy  was  really  outdoing  himself;  the  $1,500  would  flit 
through  his  imagination  and  he  would  almost  throw  the  ma- 
chine into  spasms ;  I  expected  every  moment  to  see  his  panta- 
loons and  red  flannel  shirt  part  company ;  the  only  connecting 
link  was  a  single  India  rubber  suspender  which  was  stretched 
to  its  utmost  tension.  We  resolved  to  run  through  one  hun- 
dred buckets  before  dinner,  and,  by  straining  every  nerve, 
accomplished  it.  We  panned  down  our  half-days'  work — it 
amounted  to  two  dollars.  It  had  been  excessively  hot,  the 
thermometer  rose  to  lOG'^,  and  when  we  arrived  at  our  encamp- 
ment we  were  as  wet  as  if  we  had  been  wading  the  river.  We 
boiled  some  pork  and  sea-biscuit  together  in  our  camp-kettle, 
made  coflee,  and  having  placed  two  large  stones  against  the 
rock,  sat  down  to  dinner.  Our  spirits  were  buoyant  and  our 
anticipations  high. 

Soon  after  dinner  our  machine  was  again  making  its  spasmo- 
dic movements,  and  continued  them  during  the  afternoon ;  we 
did  not  allow  ourselves  to  forget  the  strong  resemblance  between 


PROSPECTING.  83 

our  "  lead"  and  tlie  one  in  whicli  tlie  $,1,500  was  obtained.  At 
night  we  had  another  two  dollars  to  put  into  the  company 
purse.  It  is  Saturday  night,  and  we  feel  that  we  shall  hail  the 
day  of  rest  with  pleasure.  After  supper  we  retire,  having  our 
usual  serenade,  and  during  the  night  one  of  the  troupe  made 
love  to  and  eloped  with  one  of  Tracy's  boots ;  I  imagined  from 
a  hint  thrown  out  in  the  morning  that  he  would  have  preferred 
dispensing  with  the  music. 

Mining  operations  cease  on  the  Sabbath ;  and  miners  attend 
to  mending,  washing,  &c.  Tracy  and  myself  went  to  the  river 
to  do  our  washing ;  the  vocation  to  me  was  entirely  new.  I 
commenced  on  a  pair  of  white  merino  drawers  which  I  some- 
times used  instead  of  pantaloons ;  they  looked  very  well  when 
I  commenced,  but  it  was  different  after  working  on  them  half 
an  hour ;  it  would  have  troubled  an  experienced  washerwoman 
to  tell  what  color  they  ought  to  be ;  I  first  tried  soap,  then  sand, 
but  it  was  of  no  use ;  it  appeared  only  to  set  the  color.  I  put 
them  in  the  river  and  put  a  stone  on  them ;  what  effect  the 
rainy  season  had  on  them,  I  have  not  been  able  to  learn.  I 
took  my  rifle,  and  trespassed  on  the  Sabbath  by  shooting  a  rab- 
bit and  several  quails ;  we  consequently  spent  the  afternoon  in 
feasting,  and  on  Monday  morning  were  in  a  condition  to  tire  our 
machine. 

We  resolved  to  run  through  two  hundred  buckets,  and  no  two 
men  ought,  and  few  could  do  more.  When  night  came  we  had 
$4  to  add  to  the  purse.  We  resolved  to  spend  the  next  morn- 
ing prospecting.  We  started  at  an  early  hour,  and  after 
testing  a  number  of  points,  decided  upon  one,  and  immediately 
started  our  machine.  At  noon,  not  liking  the  result,  we  deter- 
mined to  spend  the  afternoon  in  a  further  search.  We  went 
some  distance  up  the  river,  carefully  examining  every  point, 
until  we  came  to  a  perpendicular  ledge  of  rocks,  overhanging 
the  river.  We  thought  no  one  had  ever  attempted  to  ascend 
this,  and  by  doing  so  ourselves  might  find  on  the  other  side 
what  had  not  been  examined.  We  succeeded  in  gaining  the 
summit,  and  on  going  down  the  other  side,  commenced  to  ex- 
amine the  crevices  of  the  rocks.  To  our  astonishment,  Tracy 
found  a  piece  of  gold  worth  a  dollar.  We  were  much  excited. 
It  was  too  much  to  bear  in  silence.     He  opened  his  mouth  to 


84  CALirtKXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

lialloo  but  his  eye  again  fell  upon  the  piece  of  gold  and  he 
did  not.  "^iVe  found  several  smaller  pieces,  and  were  now  satisfied 
that  we  had  at  last  found  the  place  for  which  we  had  been  so 
long  and  anxiously  looking.  TVe  followed  down  the  side  to 
the  river,  and  there  found  a  small  bar,  into  which  the  gold  must 
find  its  way,  as  it  was  washed  from  the  crevices  above.  "We 
examined  the  bar  and  found  particles  of  gold,  and  decided  to 
take  possession  at  once.  It  was  late  in  the  afternoon,  but  at  this 
particular  time,  we  decided  not  to  put  off  till  to-morrow  what 
ought  to  be  done  to-day,  and  immediately  started  for  our  machine, 
which  was  a  mile  distant.  TTe  were  soon  underway  ladened 
with  our  implements,  with  perspiration  gushing  from  every  pore. 
TTe  found  our  task  a  hard  one ;  were  often  obhged  to  rest,  and 
as  often  would  our  success  flit  across  our  imaginations,  when  we 
would  again  shoulder  our  machine,  and  push  on.  It  was  dark 
long  before  we  reached  oui'  destination ;  we  were  obliged  to 
climb  over  crags  of  rocks,  where  one  misstep  would  have  precip- 
itated us  into  the  river  below.  We  toiled  on,  and  at  length 
reached  our  destination.  'We  would  gladly  have  remained  here 
during  the  night,  but  our  clothes  were  saturated  with  perspira- 
tion, and,  although  the  days  were  hot,  the  nights  were  on  the 
other  extreme,  sometimes  renderinsf  it  uncomfortablv  cold,  even 
under  our  woollen  blankets.  There  was  no  alternative  but  to 
return,  and  we  again  ascended  the  precipice,  and  after  a  most 
fatiguing  march  reached  our  encampment.  I  had  heard  of  peo- 
ple's bones  aching  "  out  loud,"  but  this  was  the  first  exhibition 
of  the  kind  I  had  ever  witnessed.  We  were  soon  in  the  embrace 
of  Morpheus,  and  fancy  carried  us  home. 

TVe  arose  much  fatigued,  but  hope  was  preeminent,  and  we 
were  soon  under  way,  with  the  brightest  anticipations.  Our 
machine  was  again  in  motion ;  I  never  felt  stronger,  and  at  every 
bucket-full  Tracy  would  give  his  dipper  an  extra  flourish,  his 
India-rubber  suspender  fairly  grinniug  with  excitement.  "VTe 
did  not  fear  for  the  result,  and  kept  our  machine  in  motion  until 
noon,  when  on  raising  the  screen  we  found  we  had  made  about 
fifty  cents.  We  had,  however,  not  yet  reached  the  granite,  and 
our  spirits  were  not  dampened.  We  worked  during  the  after- 
noon, reaching  and  scraping  the  granite,  and  at  night  would 
have  been  one  dollar  richer  than  in  the  morning,  if  some  one 


THE  CAKES    HUERIED  UP.  85 

had  been  boarding  ns  gratis.  We  bad  exhausted  our  lead 
and  took  our  implements  back  to  tbe  first  scene  of  operations. 
We  continued  to  labor  hard  during  the  week,  and  Saturday 
night,  on  making  out  our  balance  sheet,  we  had  earned  $13.50 
each,  which  was  less  than  the  cost  of  our  provisions.  It  is  said 
that  prosperity  begets  want,  and  it  was  precisely  so  in  our  case. 
On  Sunday  morning  we  went  to  the  store,  purchased  flour  at 
seventy-five  cents  per  pound,  and  a  frying-pan  for  $5,  determined 
to  spend  the  day  in  feasting. 

A  team  had  just  arrived  from  Sacramento  with  eight  fortu- 
nate individuals,  who  had  heard  that  this  was  the  place  where 
men  were  getting  $1,500  per  hour,  and  as  they  had  just  arrived 
from  the  States,  they  were  willing  to  commence  even  at  that  rate. 
The  teamster  informed  me  that  Bent,  Harry,  and  Sam  ^^ put  in^^ 
at  Sacramento,  in  "stress  of  weather,"  having  got  on  a  drunken 
spree,  and  spent  the  $200.  On  our  arrival  at  the  encampment 
Tracy  took  his  basket,  put  in  some  water,  stirred  in  fiour,  and 
was  soon  using  our  frying-pan.  I  practiced  turning  the  cakesj 
and  soon  became  so  skilled  that  I  could  hit  the  pan  every  time. 
We  held  a  consultation.  Tracy  was  determined  to  continue 
mining,  but  I  resolved  to  go  to  Sacramento  and  prepare  to  em- 
bark in  something  that  would  pay  better.  A  few  individuals 
were  doing  well  in  the  mines,  and  there  were  comparatively  but 
few.  Ours  was  about  the  average  success.  The  mass  were 
merely  paying  expenses.  There  were  a  thousand  extravagant 
stories  constantly  circulating,  of  men  who  had  made  fortunes  in 
an  hour,  and  Mr.  Eccles  did  really  in  that  length  of  time,  get 
$1,500  in  our  immediate  vicinity.  Each  one  naturally  consid- 
ered himself  destined  to  be  one  of  the  fortunate  ones,  and  if  he  has 
only  made  a  dollar  to-day,  he  is  quite  confident  that  he  will 
make  a  hundred  to-morrow,  or,  perhaps,  a  thousand.  The  same 
influences  operate  upon  the  mind  as  in  gambling,  and  chances 
of  success  are  about  equal,  although  mining  is  not  attended  with 
the  same  disastrous  results. 

The  country  is  rich  in  gold,  the  supply  is  inexhaustible.  The 
entire  soil  of  the  mountainous  parts  is  impregnated  with  it.  It 
seems  an  ingredient  or  constituent  of  the  soil.  Still,  in  its 
natural  distribution,  it  is  not  sufficiently  abundant  to  pay  for 
collecting.     It  is  found  most  plentifully  on  bars  in  the  rivers, 


86  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

where  it  is  deposited  during  fresliets,  or  at  tlie  confluence  of 
ravines,  which  sweep  down  the  side  of  the  mountains  uniting  at 
the  base,  where  the  gold  naturally  deposits  during  the  rainy 
season.  "Bars,"  in  California  pdirlance^  are  the  low  tongues  of 
land  at  abrupt  bends  in  the  river.  (See  Plate.)  They  are  gen- 
erally formed  in  whole,  or  in  part  by  freshets.  During  the 
rainy  season,  torrents  rush  down  the  sides  of  the  mountains, 
freighted  with  gold,  dirt  and  stones,  which,  when  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  main  stream,  are  borne  along  until  an  abrupt  bend 
in  the  river  checks  the  current,  an  eddy  sets  back  a  certain  dis- 
tance, at  which  point  the  heavy  substances  are  deposited.  A 
canal  is  cut  across  the  root  of  the  tongue,  at  the  head  of  which 
a  dam  is  thrown  across  the  river,  which  turns  the  water  from  its 
natural  channel,  enabling  miners  to  work  below  water-mark. 


Clrflptn  /iftnntli. 

START  FOR  SACRAMENTO  CITY— THE  "  NIAGARA  CO."— FREDERIC  JEROME— A  LOVE- 
CHASE — HEROINE  UNDER  A  BLANKET — SUSPICIOUS  BOOTS — PART  OF  A  LADY's  HAT 
FOUND — A  BALL — ARRIVAL  AT  SACRAMENTO  CITY — POOR  ACCOMMODATIONS — RETURN 
TO  THE  INTERIOR — A  CHASE — A  NEW  YORK  MERCHANT — BEALS'  BAR — EMBARK  IN  TRADE 
— A  MOUNTAINEER — INDIAN   CHARACTERISTICS. 

On  Monday  morning  I  bade  Tracy  farewell,  and  started  for 
Sacramento,  promising  to  report  at  the  earliest  possible  moment. 
After  walking  four  miles  I  was  taken  sick  and  stopped  at  a  tent 
until  morning,  when,  feeling  better,  I  left  my  rifle  and  pursued 
my  journey.  The  heat  was  excessive,  and  the  road  a  dreary 
one,  with  nothing  to  break  the  monotony.  I  exhausted  the 
contents  of  my  flask  and  was  soon  suffering  with  thirst ;  I  met  a 
gentlemen  who  supplied  me  with  water,  and  I  moved  on.  After 
traveling  some  twelve  miles,  as  I  was  pursuing  my  course  I 
was  surprised  at  hearing  a  voice,  and  immediately  heard  my 
name  called.  I  looked  up  and  saw  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
road,  two  tents,  and  on  approaching,  found  a  company  of  gen- 
tlemen of  Lockport,  N.  Y.,  who  had  been  fellow  passengers  up 
the  Pacific.  They  had  started  for  the  interior,  and  on  reaching 
this  point  their  wagon  broke  down,  the  team  strayed,  and  left 
them  no  alternative  but  to  encamp.  As  they  were  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  the  river,  they  had  commenced  mining,  and 
I  am  happy  to  add,  with  unexpected  success.  This  they  richly 
deserved,  for  a  more  gentlemanly,  hospitable  and  energetic  set 
of  men,  it  was  never  my  fortune  to  fall  in  with.  They  styled 
themselves  the  "  Niagara  Co.,"  and  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of 
meeting  one  of  the  gentlemen  in  this  city  since  my  return.  At 
their  solicitation  I  visited  their  works,  and  remained  over  night, 
and  when  I  parted  with  them  in  the  morning,  it  was  like  parting 
with  brothers. 

I  started  at  day -break  and  after  traveling  an  hour,  fell  in  with 


88  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

Frederick  Jerome,  well  known  for  his  heroic  efforts^  in  sa^dng 
the  passengers  of  the  Ocean  Monarch.  He  and  his  compan- 
ions were  bound  for  the  interior.  I  soon  came  out  on  the  mar- 
gin of  a  prairie,  some  four  miles  in  diameter,  the  road  running 
through  its  center;  I  had  but  just  entered  upon  it,  when  I  dis- 
covered the  track  of  a — not  a  grizzly  bear,  dear  reader,  but  of  a 
female.  I  did  really  discover  the  track  of  a  female  in  California. 
It  may  seem  a  trivial  circumstance  to  yon,  it  was  not  so  to  me. 
A  galvanic  battery  would  not  have  created  a  more  startling 
sensation,  and  I  was  half  tempted  to  faint  in  honor  of  the  occasion. 
It  was  a  small  foot,  encased  in  a  slipper  of  the  finest  mould ;  then 
there  was  such  a  witching  air  about  it,  so  pert,  the  toes  turned 
a  little  out,  the  heel  set  down  with  just  enough  decision,  and 
a  something  coquettish  in  the  way  she  raised  it  up  ;  then  there 
was  a  sprightliness  and  elasticity,  quite  perceptible.  I  soon  came 
to  where  she  had  turned  round,  as  if  she  had  been  expecting 
me,  and  without  designing  to  be  silly,  I  soon  found  myself  on  a 
"  round  trot."  I  hurried  on,  buried  in  thought  and  conjecture, 
sometimes  imagining  it  some  one  I  had  seen  in  the  States  ;  the 
track  seemed  familiar.  Sometimes  I  would  remember  having 
met  her  at  a  cotillon  party,  and  then  I  would  notice  a  change 
in  the  track,  as  if  she  had  been  thinking  of  the  same  thing,  and 
taking  some  of  the  "old  steps;"  I  could  see  that  the  toe  had  re- 
moved a  greater  quantity  of  dust,  as  if  she  had  been  taking  the 
standing,  instead  of  the  "  chessa "  balance.  But  the  distance 
between  us  was  fearful.  I  could  see  several  miles  and  could  not 
see  her,  and  she  might  take  another  road.  As  these  thoughts 
were  running  through  my  mind,  I  would  come  to  myself,  and 
find  myself  running  at  the  top  of  my  speed,  the  perspiration 
oozing  from  every  pore.  I  was  fast  gaining  the  opposite  side, 
and  hope  was  in  the  ascendant. 

I  began  to  think  of  my  personal  appearance,  which  is  in  such 
cases  of  the  utmost  importance.  After  a  careful  examination,  I 
came  to  the  conclusion  that  it  was  not  very  flattering.  I  had 
not  shaved  in  six  months;  I  had  on  an  under-shirt  and  cravat, 
pantaloons  and  long  boots,  a  Panama  hat,  blue  flannel  shirt  out- 
side, over  which  was  a  belt  with  a  sheath-knife,  and  a  blue  sash. 
I  had  seen  men  as  badly  dressed  as  myself.  I  was  in  hope  she 
had,  and  hurried  on.     I  soon  reached  the  forest,  and  was  on  the 


2] 

:< 

H 


^.'     -. 


PART  OF  A  lady's  HAT  FOUND.  89 

qui  vive^  scanning  every  rock  and  log,  expecting  to  find  her 
at  rest  after  her  fatiguing  walk  across  the  prairie.  I  walked  on, 
examining  every  shade,  without  seeing  her.  I  soon  saw  at  some 
distance  a  thick  grove  of  underwood,  the  road  passing  through 
it,  and  I  thought  I  saw  a  smoke  rising  beyond  it.  I  soon  ar- 
rived near,  approaching  very  cautiously,  and  keeping  an  eye  in 
the  direction  of  the  smoke.  I  was  not  frightened,  but  my  nerv- 
ous system  was  in  an  unusual  state  of  agitation.  I  wiped  off 
the  perspiration,  and  continued  my  cautious  approach.  I  was 
soon  sufficiently  near  to  see  what  I  at  first  thought  to  be  a  tent, 
but  on  a  nearer  examination  proved  to  be  blankets  thrown  over 
a  pole,  and  sweeping  the  ground.  I  saw  no  one.  I  approached 
still  nearer,  and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  she  was  under  the 
blankets  taking  her  morning  siesta.  I  still  drew  nearer,  and 
stopped  to  take  a  survey  of  the  premises.  Just  beyond  the 
blankets  I  saw  what  appeared  to  be  two  pairs  of  heavy  boots, 
and  on  changing  my  position  they  both  a^ppeared  to  have  men 
in  theip.  I  neither  fainted,  nor  ran,  but  I  walked  on  noiselessly 
to  a  proper  distance  and  sat  down  to  rest.  The  men  were  sleep- 
ing on  the  ground,  and  I  have  no  doubt  the  lady  was  doing  the 
same  under  her  temporary  shelter.  They  had  undoubtedly 
been  to  the  mines,  and  perhaps  became  disheartened,  and  were 
returning  to  town. 

The  scarcity  of  ladies  in  California,  is  the  theme  of  much  con- 
versation. There  is  an  anecdote  almost  universally  told  in  con- 
nection with  the  subject;  it  is  as  follows:  At  a  certain  point  in 
the  mineral  regions,  part  of  a  lady's  hat  was  discovered,  which 
caused  so  much  excitement  and  joy,  that  it  was  immediately 
decided  to  have  a  ball  on  the  spot,  in  honor  of  the  event.  Invi- 
tations were  immediately  distributed  throughout  the  country, 
and,  on  the  appointed  day,  three  hundred  miners  assembled, 
each  dressed  in  a  red  flannel  shirt,  and  accompanied  by  a  bottle 
of  brandy.  In  the  exact  spot  was  driven  a  stick,  five  feet  high, 
on  the  top  of  which  was  placed  the  hat,  and  around  it  was  wrap- 
ped a  flannel  blanket.  It  was  made  to  represent,  as  nearly  as 
possible,  a  female  form.  By  the  side  of  this  was  placed  a  miner's 
cradle,  or  machine,  in  which  was  placed  a  smoked  ham,  also 
wrapped  in  a  flannel  blanket.  At  the  close  of  each  dance  the 
president  of  the  meeting  would  rock  the  cradle,  while  the  secre- 


90  CALIFORXIA   ILLUSTEATED. 

tarj  would  pour  a  bottle  of  brandy  down  the  back  of  the  lady's 
neck.  The  ball  lasted  two  days,  at  the  end  of  which  time  the 
ground  was  surveyed  into  town-lots,  and  called  Auburn.  It  has 
been  spoken  of  in  a  former  chapter. 

After  waiting  an  hour  without  discovering  any  signs  of  life 
in  the  camp,  the  sun  admonished  me  that  I  must  move  on.  I 
pursued  my  lonely  walk  until  11  o'clock,  p.  m.,  when  I  reached 
the  American  river.  I  prepared  myself  and  waded  through,  and 
in  one  hour  was  passing  Sutter's  Fort.  The  dogs  appeared 
to  be  on  duty,  and  hailed  me  vdih  such  ferocity  that  I  have  no 
doubt  they  thought  I  meditated  an  attack.  I  hurried  on,  and 
at  midnight  reached  Sacramento  city.  I  found  it  impossible  to 
get  lodgings,  and  was  obliged  to  seek  shelter  under  some  one  of 
the  large  oaks  in  the  suburbs  of  the  town.  Even  here  it  was 
dif&cult  to  find  a  spot  imoccupied.  I  found  a  place,  however, 
by  going  some  distance,  and  spread  my  blanket  with  a  fair  pros- 
pect of  having  the  bed  all  to  myself  It  had  been  excessively 
hot  during  the  day,  but  now  a  heavy  dew  had  fallen,  ^*e  air 
was  cold,  and  after  laying  an  hour  found  myself  stiff  and  lame, 
and  chilled  to  the  very  heart.  I  arose,  but  found  it  dif&cult  to 
walk.  I  succeeded  in  reaching  an  unfinished  house,  into  which 
I  crawled,  and  spent  the  balance  of  the  night  in  a  vain  effort  to 
sleep. 

In  the  morning  I  took  a  survey  of  the  town,  purchased  a 
horse,  and  prepared  for  another  incursion  into  the  interior.  A 
friend  wished  to  accompany  me,  and  at  4  o'clock,  p.  ir.,  we  were 
under  way.  We  crossed  the  river  and  took  our  course  across 
the  plain  in  the  direction  of  the  great  bend  of  the  American 
Eiver.  Late  in  the  afternoon,  as  we  were  galloping  along,  we 
fell  in  with  a  pack  of  wolves  (coyotas,)  and  as  we  were  both 
well  mounted  we  were  fast  overhauling  them.  They  were  crazy 
with  fright,  making  two  or  three  tremendous  leaps,  then  turning 
to  look  at  us,  their  alarm  would  increase  and  they  would  bound 
away.  "We  were  close  upon  them  when  mj  companion's  girth 
broke,  and  we  were  obliged  to  give  up  the  chase.  If  they  have 
ever  come  to  the  conclusion  to  stop,  I  am  confident  it  was  not  in 
that  immediate  vicinity,  for  I  never  saw  animals  so  frightened. 
What  they  were  doing  when  we  came  upon  them,  I  am  unable 
to  say.     It  has  been  suggested  that  they  may  have  been  tuning 


beal's  bar.  91 

their  instruments  preparatory  to  their  evening  concert.  I  was 
disposed  to  fall  in  with  this  suggestion,  from  the  fact,  that  that 
was  the  only  night  during  my  stay  in  the  country,  that  I  did  not 
listen  to  their  music.  If  they  took  the  trouble  to  stick  up  a 
notice  of  postponement,  it  read,  undoubtedly,  as  follows :  "Post- 
poned indefinitely  on  account  of  a  fright  in  the  family." 

We  resumed  our  journey  and  at  10  p.m.,  arrived  at  the  bend. 
After  watering  our  horses  we  secured  the  ends  of  their  lassos, 
and  taking  our  supper,  we  rolled  ourselves  in  our  blankets.  In 
the  morning  we  directed  our  course  towards  Beal's  Bar,  a 
higher  point  on  the  river.  As  we  were  galloping  along  (Cali- 
fornia horses  cannot  trot)  we  met  a  gentleman  whom  I  recog- 
nized as  a  New  York  acquaintance.  He  was  a  New  York 
merchant,  and  when  at  home,  somewhat  noted  for  his 
dashing  appearance.  His  appearance  on  this  occasion  was  so 
extremely  ludicrous,  I  could  not  withstand  the  temptation  of 
taking  a  sketch.  (See  Plate.)  He  was  returning  from  the 
mines,  and  at  the  time  we  came  upon  him,  a  coyota  was  casting 
inquisitive  glances  in  that  direction,  as  if  in  doubt  whether 
it  was  really  a  man,  or  a  fellow-member  of  the  California  Har- 
monic Society.  He  had  on  a  slouched  hat,  which,  together  with 
his  whiskers  and  moustache,  almost  hid  his  face ;  a  mariner's 
shirt,  and  a  pair  of  drawers,  which  were,  on  this  occasion,  serv- 
ing in  the  place  of  pantaloons,  being  suspended  by  two  strips  of 
a  woolen  blanket,  crossed  in  front.  A  rifle  on  his  shoulder, 
pipe  in  his  mouth,  and  blankets  in  hand,  he  looked  the  very 
personation  of  a  corn-field  effigy. 

After  a  short  detention  we  moved  on,  arriving  at  the  Bar 
at  12  M.  After  dinner  we  went  down  to  the  scene  of  operations, 
my  friend  wishing  to  purchase  an  interest.  The  bar  was  divided 
into  thirty  shares,  owned  by  as  many  individuals.  They  worked 
as  a  company  and  divided  the  proceeds  at  night.  Shares  were 
commanding  $2,800  each.  Beal's  Bar  was  at  this  time  paying 
about  $20  per  day  to  a  man.  They  had,  however,  expended  a 
large  amount  of  money  in  turning  the  water  from  the  channel. 
After  remaining  two  hours,  we  started  in  the  direction  of  the 
Mormon  Bar,  where  we  arrived  at  9  p.m.  Tracy  was  in  an 
ecstasy.  He  provided  supper  with  great  alacrity,  and  even  let 
my  friend  occupy  half  his  bed. 


92  CALIFORXIA   ILLUSTEATED. 

I  had  resolved  to  engage  in  the  mercantile  business  at  this 
point,  and  having  heard  the  present  store  was  for  sale,  I  called 
on  the  proprietor  for  his  terms.  They  did  not  appear  favorable, 
and  I  started  the  next  morning  for  Sacramento,  accompanied  by 
my  friend.  We  arrived  that  evening,  and  the  next  morning  I 
commenced  buying  a  stock.  I  was  soon  on  my  return.  We 
were  three  days  in  reaching  our  destination,  and  such  a  time  • 
"We  had  a  span  of  mules  and  a  span  of  horses  before  the  wagon, 
and  a  nice  matched  span  of  drivers.  I  paid  $20  for  an  extra 
team  on  the  route,  and  finally  reached  our  destination.  I  de- 
posited my  goods  under  a  tree,  having  canvas  with  which  I 
designed  to  erect  a  store.  The  next  morning  I  succeeded  in 
buying  out  the  other  store,  and  before  night  had  possession.  I 
now  felt  that  I  had  the  helm  of  a  craft  I  knew  how  to  manage,  and 
was  fairly  at  sea.  I  immediately  hired  a  Frenchman  as  cook  at 
$50  per  week,  and  Tracy  became  a  guest.  I  was  now  pleasantly 
situated,  with  every  prospect  of  success.  I  soon  purchased  a  share 
in  the  bar — paid  $1,100.  At  this  time  it  was  yielding  abund- 
antly, and  I  had  every  assurance  of  an  ample  remuneration. 
Throughout  the  country  there  is  a  strong  propensity  for  gam- 
bling. People  appear  to  engage  in  it  for  want  of  other  amuse- 
ment. The  store  I  had  purchased  had  been  used  for  the  pur- 
pose every  night  since  its  construction,  but  it  became  so  great  a 
nuisance,  I  was  obliged  to  prohibit  it  excepting  on  particular 
occasions. 

I  here  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  many  of  those  strange  ad- 
venturers who  are  met  with  only  on  the  extreme  frontiers,  and 
who  have  as  great  an  aversion  to  law  and  civilization  as  they 
have  to  the  manacles  of  a  prison.  I  had  had  the  store  but  a 
few  days,  when  one  of  these  strange  beings  crossed  my  path.  I 
must  confess  there  was  nothing,  at  first  sight,  to  attract  my 
admiration.  About  nine  in  the  morning  I  saw,  approaching  the 
store,  a  strange  looking  being,  mounted  on  a  gray  horse,  a 
poncho  thrown  over  his  shoulder,  over  which  was  slung  a 
huge  rifle,  skins  wrapped  around  his  legs,  a  pair  of  Mexican 
spurs  on,  and  a  slouched  hat  which,  partially  obscured  his  cop- 
per complexion.  As  he  rode  up,  Tracy  recognized  him  as  an  old 
mountaineer,  whom  he  had  seen  in  Santa  Fe.  After  the  recog- 
nition, Tracy  says  "Jim!  whose  horse  is  that?"   Jim — "how 


INDIAN   CHAEACTEEISTICS.  93 

do  I  know  whose  horse  it  is!"  Tracj — ^' where  did  you  get 
him  ?"  Jim — "  /  stole  him  from  an  Indiam^j  of  coutscP  I 
have  no  doubt  his  declarations  were  true,  for  he  claimed  the 
credit  (and  I  was  informed  he  deserved  it)  of  being  the  most  ac- 
complished horse-thief  in  all  JSTew  Mexico.  He  informed  Tracy 
that  he  was  "dead  broke"  and  hungry,  and  wished  him  to  ask 
me  for  something  to  eat.  I  requested  Prince  to  get  him  some 
breakfast,  after  which  he  was  as  rich  as  Croesus,  and  com- 
menced giving  me  his  life.  It  was  a  most  exciting  romance, 
interspersed  with  thrilling  adventures  and  "  hair-breadth 
scapes."  I  was  convinced  that  his  story,  in  the  main,  was  true, 
not  because  he  swore  to  it  all,  but  because  Tracy  was  acquainted 
with  the  most  important  facts.  He  was  a  mixture  of  the  negro, 
Indian,  and  Anglo-Saxon  blood,  and  born  in  New  Mexico.  His 
earliest  training  was  in  the  art  of  horse  and  mule  stealing,  in 
which  art  he  had  become  a  connaisseur.  He  commenced  by  stealing 
one  at  a  time,  and  soon  became  so  proficient,  that  he  could  steal 
whole  droves  with  perfect  impunity.  He  declared  that  he  furnished 
General  Taylor's  army  with  most  of  their  horses  and  mules,  and 
that  he  could  raise  two  thousand  head,  with  twelve  hours'  no- 
tice— sometimes  stealing  of  the  Indians,  and  at  others  of  the 
Mexicans.  Sometimes  he  would  associate  with  the  whites,  and 
at  others  with  the  natives.  He  was  for  years,  chief  of  the  Crow 
Indians,  and  still  has  a  wife  and  family  with  them.  He  led 
them  in  numerous  battles  against  the  neighboring  tribes,  alter- 
nately winning  and  losing.  He  was  engaged  in  the  Texan  war, 
was  at  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto,  and  at  most  of  the  battles 
fought  by  General  Taylor.  He  was  never  enrolled  in  the  army, 
but  always  fought  on  his  ''own  hook,"  and  ready  to  chase  the 
party  that  was  defeated.  He  took  a  middle  ground,  and  was 
always /ms^  in  time  to  join  the  victorious  party. 

Indians  in  their  wars  have  their  own  peculiar  signs  and  marks 
by  which  warriors  of  the  same  tribe  are  informed  of  the  locality 
of  the  enemy.  These  signs  are  made  on  the  trees,  rocks,  earth, 
&c.,  &c.  A  detachment  of  a  thousand  warriors  will  start  in  the 
evening,  and  after  arriving  at  a  certain  point,  separate,  to  scour 
the  country  in  different  directions,  and  meet  at  a  concerted 
point,  when  the  moon  is  at  a  certain  altitude.  The  party  arriv- 
ing first,  drops  an  arrow,  with  the  point  in  the  direction  they 


94  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

have  taken;  the  latter  party  moving  in  that  direction  soon  find 
their  friends.  But  if  the  enemy  is  on  the  alert,  the  first  arrow 
is  dropped,  and  soon  another,  which  is  found  at  right  angles 
with  the  first.  This  is  a  caution.  They  move  on  still  farther 
in  the  direction  indicated  by  the  first  arrow,  and  if  there  is  dan- 
ger they  find  two  arrows,  one  across  the  other.  They  now  stop 
and  secrete  themselves.  Soon  one  of  the  first  party  approaches 
them  cautiously  and  informs  them  of  the  position  of  the  enemy. 
In  cases  of  storm,  when  the  sun  is  hidden,  they  resort  to  other 
indications  for  the  point  of  compass.  They  find  the  moss  much 
thicker  on  the  north  side  of  trees  and  rocks,  than  on  the  south. 
They  also  cut  into  the  trees  and  find  the  annual  growth  much 
thicker  on  the  south,  than  on  the  north  side.  Jim's  legs  had 
the  appearance  of  being  bound  with  cords  under  the  skin,  in 
consequence  of  the  general  rupture  of  the  blood  vessels.  He 
says  he  was  taken  prisoner  by  the  Indians,  and  in  making  his 
escape  was  chased  ninety  miles,  without  stopping  for  food  or  rest. 
The  condition  of  his  limbs  then  compelled  him  to  stop,  and 
secrete  himself,  where,  in  consequence  of  his  lameness,  he  was 
obliged  to  remain  for  three  weeks  subsisting  on  roots.  Jim, 
with  his  other  accomplishments,  was  considered  one  of  the  best 
"TTionfe"  dealers  in  Mexico.  On  visiting  the  frontier  towns,  he 
would  spend  his  time  in  gambling.  Sometimes  he  would  win 
several  thousand  dollars  in  one  night,  and  the  next  day  he  would 
have  every  man  drunk  in  town ;  what  he  could  not  spend  in 
drink,  he  would  give  to  the  poor,  or  to  his  friends.  Money  was 
an  incumbrance  to  which  he  would  not  submit.  After  remain- 
ing two  or  three  days  he  mounted  his  horse  and  started  up  the 
river,  designiQg,  as  I  supposed,  not  to  return. 


CjiE|itfr  lixtetnttf. 


THE  MOEMONS— THE  ATTEilPTED  MURDER  OF  GOV.  BOGGS— CANALLING  MORMON  BAR— FALSE 
THEORIES  IN  REFERENCE  TO  GOLD  DEPOSITS  —  INFLUENCE  OF  AMASA  LYMAN,  ''THE 
PROPHET  "—EXCITING  SCENE— JIM  RETURNS— A  MONTE  BANK  "  TAPPED  "—JIM'S  ADVENT 
AT  SACRAMENTO  CITY. 

My  immediate  neighbors  were  mostly  Mormons,  headed  by 
Amasa  Lyman,  one  of  *'the  twelve."  The  person  who  shot 
Gov.  Boggs,  of  Missouri,  was  also  here,  under  an  assumed  name. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  at  the  time  of  the  Mormon  disturb- 
ance in  Missouri,  it  was  thought  by  them  that  Gov.  Boggs  con- 
nived at  their  persecution,  and  several  attempts  were  made  upon 
his  life.  Scofield,  alias,  "Orin  Porter,"  a  reckless,  daring  fellow, 
loaded  a  pistol  and  went  to  his  house ;  it  was  in  the  evening ;  the 
Governor  was  sitting  by  the  light  reading  a  paper.  Porter  went 
to  the  back  window,  and  aiming  at  his  head,  discharged  the  pis- 
tol, the  ball  taking  effect  in  the  back  part  of  his  head.  Porter 
deliberately  laid  the  pistol  on  the  window-sill,  and  left.  The 
wound  did  not  prove  mortal,  and  at  the  time  of  which  I  am 
writing,  Gov.  B.,  and  two  sons,  were  in  California.  They  had 
heard  of  Porter's  rendezvous,  and  were  supposed  to  be  in  search 
of  him.  He  went  armed  with  a  brace  of  revolvers,  and  one  of 
dueUing  pistols ;  he  had  a  dog  that  was  constantly  with  him, 
sleeping  with  him  at  night  to  give  the  alarm  in  case  of  danger. 
He  declared  his  determination  to  sell  his  life  dearly  if  attacked. 
He  was  much  esteemed  by  the  '■''faithfuV  for  his  heroism  in  the 
above  act,  consequently  they  kept  an  eye  to  his  safety,  keeping 
him  informed  of  the  whereabouts  of  the  enemy. 

The  Mormons  held  no  religious  meetings  here.  They  believe 
in  the  inspiration  of  Smith,  or  "Joseph,"  as  they  call  him,  and 
calculate  time  from  the  date  of  his  death,  as  an  era,  speaking  of 
an  occurrence,  as  in  the  first,  second,  or  third  year  of  the  death 


96  CALIFOEXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

of  "Joseph."  Tliej  believe  tlie  Book  of  Mormon  to  be  a  his- 
tory of  the  western,  as  the  Bible  is  a  history  of  the  eastern  con- 
tinent. Those  here  were  a  good  set  of  fellows,  somewhat  reck- 
less, fine  horsemen,  fond  of  sprees,  and  an  occasional  fight. 
Many  of  them  had  belonged  to  the  "Mormon  battalion,"  under 
the  late  Gen.  Kearney,  of  whom  they  spoke  in  the  most  enthu- 
siastic terms.  They  had  all  been  at  "  Salt  Lake,"  and  considered 
that  their  country,  and  home,  many  of  them  having  left  their 
families  there.  They  believe  all  other  religions  heresy,  and 
quote  Scripture  to  prove,  that  the  appearance  of  Smith,  and  the 
promulgation  of  his  doctrine,  was  predicted  long  before  the 
Christian  era,  and  that  that  doctrine  must  prevail  universally 
before  the  coming  of  the  Millenium.  They  were  all  hard  work- 
ers, and  fond  of  gambling.  They  had  spent  ten  weeks  in  canal- 
ling  the  bar,  and  the  first  indications  were  extremely  favorable, 
but  it  was  soon  necessary  to  incur  additional  expense,  in  order 
to  drain  the  deep  holes  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  The  edges  of 
these  holes  were  rich  with  gold ;  in  spots  the  granite  being  quite 
yellow,  so  that  the  gold  was  scraped  up  with,  spoons.  It  was 
the  natural  conclusion  that  the  edges  being  rich,  the  bottoms 
must  be  more  so.  The  company,  that  is  to  sa}^,  Amasa  Lyman, 
(for,  being  one  of  the  prophets,  his  word  was  law,)  resolved  to 
construct  a  hose  of  duck  to  carry  off  the  water  as  it  was  pumped 
from  the  holes,  consequently  sent  to  town  and  purchased  three 
hundred  yards  of  duck,  which,  using  three  widths,  made  the 
hose  one  hundred  yards  in  length,  costing  $600 — the  pump  cost- 
ing $50. 

We  now  commenced  draining  the  deepest  and  consequently 
the  richest  hole,  and  soon  had  it  in  working  order ;  the  richness 
of  the  margin  was,  as  we  thought,  infallible  evidence  that  the 
bottom  must  yield  abundantly ;  we  removed  a  quantity  of  dirt 
and  stone,  and  commenced  to  wash  from  the  bottom,  but,  to 
our  surprise,  it  did  not  contain  a  particle  of  gold ;  this,  like 
most  of  the  theories  in  reference  to  operations  in  California,  was 
not  founded  on  correct  principles.  The  influence  of  the  stag- 
nant water  in  the  holes  seemed  to  extend  to  the  surface,  holding 
the  passing  water  in  check.  The  current,  as  it  is  bearmg  the 
gold  down  stream,  comes  in  contact  with  this  dead  water,  and 
parts ;  receiving  a  sufficient  check  to  allow  the  gold  to  deposit 


EXCITING  SCENE.  97 

aronnd  tlie  margin.  Several  experiments  were  tried  without 
success,  and  it  was  soon  apparent  that  the  speculation  was  to 
prove  disastrous.  The  operations  were  managed  without  sys- 
tem or  discretion.  The  "/a^W^/k?,"  having  a  majority,  had  it  all 
their  own  way;  and  they  managed  as  seemed  best  calculated  to 
victimize  the  "  Gentiles."  As  the  sequel  will  show,  they  were 
drawn  into  the  same  vortex.  I  had  hired  a  man  to  work  my 
share,  but  the  dividends  did  not  pay  his  wages,  and  it  was  appa- 
rent that  we  must  dissolve  the  company,  and  each  man  work  or 
abandon  his  share  as  he  saw  fit.  It  was  proposed  to  divide  the 
bar  into  equal  shares,  to  be  drawn  by  numbers  representing 
them;  the  ^''faithfulj^  however,  opposed  this  mode  of  distribu- 
tion ;  they  were  in  favor  of  going  on,  and  each  getting  all  he 
could ;  each  to  be  allowed  ten  feet  in  width,  wherever  he  might 
locate  his  machine.  They  having  canalled  and  worked  the  bar^ 
knew  every  foot  of  it,  and  the  relative  richness  of  the  different 
parts.  The  "  Gentiles"  saw  no  alternative  but  to  be  victimized^ 
as  they  must  submit  to  the  majority,  and  it  being  Lyman's  mo- 
tion it  was  sure  to  carry.  The  place  of  deliberation  was  at  the 
tents  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  some  distance  from  the  bar^ 
and  as  the  work  had  been  suspended  for  several  days,  many  of 
the  implements  had  been  carried  up. 

There  was  an  unusual  anxiety  and  excitement  on  this  partic- 
ular occasion,  and  as  the  vote  was  about  to  be  taken,  first  the 
implements,  then  the  bar  would  be  scanned,  with  marked 
solicitude ;  the  clenched  hand  and  determined  gesture  giving 
token  of  the  fearfal  struggle  that  was  at  hand.  The  vote  was. 
given;  each  man  ^'' broke  loose^^  for  the  bar  as  if  his  life  de- 
pended upon  the  exertion  of  the  moment;  some  with  machines, 
on  their  shoulders,  others  laden  with  shovels,  tin  pans,  pick- 
axes, India  rubber  boots,  and  spades,  all  rushing  down,  pell- 
mell,  some  crossing  the  canal  on  the  log,  others,  finding  the  log . 
full,  would  rush  in  and  wade,  or  swim  across;  the  implements 
of  some,  coming  in  contact  with  others,  all  would  tumble  in  to 
meet  again  at  the  bottom.  Any  one  who  has  witnessed  a  charge 
in  battle,  can  form  a  faint  idea  of  the  confusion  and  excitement 
on  this  occasion.  The  vanquished,  however,  instead  of  being 
drenched  in  blood  were  drenched  in  water,  and  instead  of, 
broken  bones,  cries  of  the  wounded,  the  beating  of  drums,, 


98  CALIFOEXIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

and  torn  uniforms,  we  had  broken  shovel-handles,  curses  of 
miners,  the  rattling  of  tin  pans,  and  torn  red  flannel  shirts.  It 
so  happened  that  the  ^^faithfuV  all  rushed  for  the  same  spot, 
and  when  their  lions  were  served  the  lamhs  found  the  balance 
of  the  best  in  the  hands  of  or  in  the  possession  of  the  ''  Gen- 
tiles." This  occasioned  considerable  sparring  among  themselves, 
and  resulted  in  the  "lambs"  selling  out  for  from  ten  to  fifteen 
dollars,  being  their  entire  summer's  work. 

I  did  not  trust  my  interest  at  this  time,  to  the  supervision  of  a 
hired  man,  but  joined  in  the  foot-race,  leaving  Prince  (the  cook) 
in  charge  of  the  store.  I  knew  nothing  about  the  best  points 
in  the  bar,  but  followed  the  '-ProjDhet"  and  his  satelhtes,  and 
when  they  selected  their  "leads"  I  took  the  one  next  above; 
in  this  lead  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  rich  deposits, 
although  I  kept  it  from  the  knowledge  of  the  "faithful."  I 
would  go  on  the  bar  at  9  A.  ^.  and  work  until  12 ;  then  from 
1  p.  :^.  to  4.  On  one  day  I  got  eleven  and  a  half  ounces,  and 
on  several  days  as  high  as  six  ounces.  The  bed  of  my  lead  was 
rotten  granite,  which  in  some  places  was  entirely  covered,  being 
yellow  with  gold;  in  some  of  the  crevices  of  the  rock  I  would 
take  it  out  with  a  spoon,  almost  entirely  free  from  dirt.  The 
person  ha\dng  the  lead  next  above  me  found  a  piece  in  a  crevice 
worth  twenty-five  dollars,  which  was  thought  extremely  large 
for  river  gold ;  it  was  found  in  a  cavity  of  its  own  size  and  form, 
and  seemed  to  have  dropped  in  in  a  molten  state.  The  final 
result  was  a  loss  to  almost  all  concerned  in  the  operation ;  the 
same  result  attended  all  the  canalling  operations  within  my 
knowledge  with  one  or  two  exceptions ;  such  experiments  re- 
quire such  immense  expenditures  that  they  must  be  extremely 
productive  to  remunerate. 

Some  three  weeks  after  Jim's  departure,  as  I  was  sitting 
in  the  store,  in  the  after  part  of  the  day,  I  heard  a  peculiar 
whoop,  and  looking  up  the  side  of  the  mountain  I  saw  a  cloud 
of  dust,  and  a  something  flying  in  the  air  that  had  the  appear- 
ance of  a  sail  that  had  broken  loose'  from  its  lower  yard  during 
a  gale ;  then  there  were  four  legs  and  two  other  legs,  all  of  them 
seemed  to  be  running  races ;  whether  on  the  ground  or  in  the 
air  it  was  dif&cult  to  tell.  I  soon  came  to  the  conclusion  that  it 
was  a  trial  of  speed  between  Old  Gray  and  Jim;  they  both 


jim's  advent  at  saceamento  city.  99 

arrived  about  the  same  time ;  Jim  a  little  ahead ;  as  between  his 
poncho  and  old  Gray's  latter  extremity  it  was  about  an  even 
race,  and  they  both  settled  down  quietly,  as  if  glad  the  race  had 
ended.  As  Jim  drew  up  to  the  door,  he  dismounted,  and  throw- 
ing on  the  counter  a  large  handkerchief  filled  with  gold  and 
silver,  said,  ""Well,  I  vow  captain,  I've  made  a  raise;"  he 
then  untied  his  handkerchief;  there  were  twenty  or  thirty  dol- 
lars in  silver,  the  balance  in  gold  coin ;  the  former  he  insisted 
upon  my  accepting,  assuring  me  that  it  was  of  not  the  least 
value  to  him.  He  had  been  up  the  river  twenty  miles,  had 
fallen  in  with  a  Mormon  who  had  some  money,  and  who  pro- 
posed that  Jim  should  deal  "monte"  and  share  the  profits;  in  a 
few  nights  they  had  won  $18,000;  the  half  of  this  was  more 
money  than  he  cared  to  have  by  him  at  any  one  time,  and  was 
on  his  way  to  Sacramento  City  to  spend  it.  He  felt  in  high 
spirits,  and  as  there  were  two  gamblers  along  in  the  evening, 
who  wished  to  open  a  "monte  bank,"  he  wished  me  to  allow 
them  to  do  so,  which  I  did ;  they  had  a  capital  of  a  few  hundred 
dollars,  and  Jim  was  to  try  his  luck  at  betting,  which,  by-the- 
way,  he  understood  as  well  as  the  other  branch  of  the  game.  He 
watched  the  run  of  the  cards  for  some  time,  then  wished  to  cut 
them ;  soon  he  made  a  small  bet — it  won ;  he  made  a  larger  bet, 
and  won  it  also;  after  making  a  few  successful  bets,  he  ^Happed 
the  hank^''  and  won  it;  at  about  midnight  he  mounted  Old  Gray 
for  Sacramento  City,  with  as  much  money  as  he  could  conve- 
niently carry. 

The  next  morning  a  man  came  to  the  store,  who  saw  Jim 
sleeping  under  a  tree,  his  money  under  his  head,  his  horse  tied 
with  a  lasso,  having  traveled  about  five  miles  on  his  way  to 
town.  On  his  arrival,  he  looked  upon  Sacramento  City  as  his 
guest,  and  emptied  his  handkerchief  in  drinking  its  health.  He 
had  all  the  inhabitants  drunk  who  were  disposed  that  way,  and 
many  of  them  much  against  their  will.  He  was  quite  successful 
in  getting  rid  of  his  money,  and  one  week  after  his  advent,  he 
had  invested  his  last  dollar.  He  had  engaged  to  pilot  the  mail 
through  to  Santa  Fe,  for  the  government,  and  the  time  arrived 
while  he  was  entertaining  the  city.  Of  course,  he  could  not  leave 
just  then,  and  when  the  officer  in  charge  ordered  him  to  start, 
he  declared  in  the  strongest  language,  that  he  considered  himseK 


100  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

full  as  good  as  some  men,  and  better  than  others.  The  result 
was  that  he  was  put  in  irons.  One  day  of  such  confinement 
would  be  sufficient  to  bring  him  to  his  senses,  and  make  him 
long  for  his  mountain  air.  I  have  no  doubt  that,  ere  this,  he 
has  seen  the  mail  safely  deposited  at  Santa  Fe,  and  is,  perhaps, 
again  extensively  engaged  in  the  mule  trade. 


Cjja^itn  $nuUtui\i, 


FALSE  REPORTS  AND  THEIR  JINFLUENCES — DAILY  AVERAGE — ABUNDANCE  OF  GOLD — ORIGI- 
NAL DEPOSIT—"  COTOTAING  "—SAILORS— THEIR  SUCCESS  AND  NOBLE  CHARACTERIS- 
TICS— THEATRICAL  TENDENCIES — JACK  IN  THE  AFTER-PIECE — MINERS  ON  A  "  SPREE  " — 
THE  WRONG  TENT. 

There  was  an  almost  universal  uneasiness  felt  throngliout  tlie 
mineral  regions.  Not  a  day  would  pass  without  arrivals  and  de- 
partures. To-day,  a  report  would  be  in  circulation  that  at  a  partic- 
ular point  on  the  Juba,  or  Feather  river,  miners  were  getting  one 
hundred  dollars  per  day.  A  party  would  immediately  set  out,  and 
to-morrow  a  party  will  arrive  from  thai  particular  point,  having 
heard  that  at  this  point,  miners  had  actually  got  all  they  could 
carry  away.  They  would  arrive  with  a  fall  supply  of  provisions, 
utensils,  &c.,  but  being  disappointed,  there  would  be  no  alterna- 
tive but  to  sell  out,  as  their  provisions  could  not  be  drawn  up 
the  mountain.  To-day  a  man  arrives  who  has  prospected 
throughout  the  southern  mines  without  success,  and  fallen  in 
with  a  report  that  has  brought  him  to  this  point.  Miners  who 
are  successful  say  nothing  about  it,  but  those  who  are  not,  are 
generally  fond  of  making  an  impression.  I  have  now  in  my 
mind's  eye  several  individuals  who  were  almost  daily  visitors 
at  the  store,  who  had  always  just  discovered  a  very  rich  deposit. 
But  strange  as  it  may  seem,  that  deposit  never  happened  to  find 
its  way  into  the  individual's  pocket.  Now,  a  man  will  come  in, 
all  excitement,  having  just  discovered,  in  a  mountain  gorge,  a 
deposit  so  rich  that  gold  can  be  picked  up  by  pounds  and  half- 
pounds.  He  is  out  of  provisions,  and  on  his  way  to  town  to 
lay  in  a  stock,  preparatory  to  availing  himself  of  his  rich  dis- 
covery. He  talks  incessantly  of  his  prospects,  and  on  his  arrival 
in  town  imparts  the  information  to  the  press.  It  is  published  as 
coming  from  the  individual  himself,  and,  of  course,  worthy  of 


102  GALIFORXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

credit.  It  is  copied  by  papers  througliout  the  world,  and  uni- 
versally believed ;  this  individual,  however,  in  the  course  of  a 
week,  has  engaged  to  drive  team  by  the  month,  or  if  returning 
to  the  mines,  goes  in  some  other  direction,  as  if  having  forgotten 
Ms  rich  discovery.  BLis  report,  however,  sends  thousands  to 
look  for  the  spot,  which,  I  need  not  say,  they  do  not  succeed  in 
finding.  The  precise  spot  is  rarely  found ;  people  get  within 
twenty  miles  of  it,  but  seldom  nearer.  As  if  exerting  the  influ- 
ence of  the  Upas  tree,  they  cannot  approach  within  the  pre- 
scribed limit.  At  the  same  time,  many  were  engaged  in  private 
leads  that  were  paying  well,  some  averaging  an  ounce  per  day, 
and  some  even  more.  At  the  mouth  of  a  ravine  near,  there 
were  ten  persons  at  work,  who  were  averaging  one  and  a  half 
ounces  per  day.  There  were  others  in  the  vicinity  doing  equally 
well. 

The  country  had  been  thoroughly  prospected;  there  was 
not  a  bar  nor  ravine  that  did  not  bear  the  impress  of  the  pick 
and  shovel.  There  were  daily  discoveries  of  deposits,  sufficiently 
rich  to  pay  well;  still,  such  discoveries,  in  proportion  to  the 
number  in  search  of  them,  were  not  one  to  twenty.  All  were 
earning  something,  and  the  mass  more  than  their  expenses, 
still  they  were  not  averaging  good  wages.  A  man  could  place 
his  machine  almost  anywhere  and  get  two  dollars  per  day  ;  this, 
however,  barely  pays  for  the  provisions  consumed,  and  unless  a 
lead  will  pay  at  hast  five  or  six  dollars,  it  is  not  considered  worth 
working.  A  miner  finds  a  lead  that  pays  six  dollars,  he  ex- 
hausts it  in  six,  or  say  ten  days ;  his  expenses  are  two  dollars 
per  day,  leaving  him,  at  the  end  of  ten  days,  forty  dollars.  He 
now  spends  a  week,  perhaps  more,  before  he  finds  another  lead 
that  will  pay ;  his  expenses  have  reduced  the  amount  in  hand 
to  twenty -six  dollars.  If  he  goes  any  considerable  distance,  he 
must  hire  a  mule  to  carry  his  provisions,  machine,  &c.,  which 
will  cost  him  one  ounce  ($16)  per  day ;  two  days  exhausts  his 
fund.  There  are  in  California,  two  hundred  thousand  inhabi- 
tants. Say  half  this  number  are  engaged  in  mining — at  five  dol- 
lars each,  it  amounts  to  half  a  million  daily.  Xow,  according  to 
statistics,  this  is  more,  by  half,  than  is  actually  produced,  and 
half  this  amount,  or  two  dollars  and  a  hal^  is  about  the  daily 
averagCj  take  the  mass  together. 


SAILORS   IX  THE   MINES.  103 

As  I  have  already  remarked,  the  supply  of  gold  is  inexhaust- 
ible, and  late  discoveries  show  that  the  rocks  constituting  the 
base  of  the  mountains  are  cemented  with  it.  When  proper 
machinery  is  brought  to  bear,  and  the  bowels  of  the  earth 
opened,  discoveries  will  undoubtedly  be  made,  that  will  eclipse 
the  most  exaggerated  calculation.  The  original  deposits  were, 
undoubtedly,  in  the  depths  of  the  earth,  and  all  that  has  yet 
been  found  is  that  which  has  been  thrown  to  the  surface,  by  the 
convulsions  of  nature.  The  form  and  general  appearance  of  the 
gold,  together  with  the  appearance  of  its  places  of  deposit,  are 
conclusive  proofs  of  this  theory.  That  the  country  has  been  con- 
vulsed by  internal  fires,  no  one  who  has  visited  it,  can  doubt. 
Mountains  of  lava  are  seen  towering  up,  and  caverns  yawning 
at  their  base.  The  natural  conclusion  is  that  many  of  the  origi- 
nal deposits  or  veins  are  still  undisturbed ;  and,  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  original  deposits  of  those  that  have,  gold  must  exist,  and 
will  be  discovered  to  an  extent  almost  beyond  conception. 

A  system  of  mining  was  adopted  near  the  commencement  of 
the  rainy  season,  which  went  to  show  that  gold  is  much  more 
plentifully  distributed,  as  you  near  the  original  deposit.  It  was 
called  in  California  parlance^  coyotaing.  It  was  by  digging  holes  or 
pits  in  the  ground,  generally  into  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
sometimes  penetrating  to  the  depth  of  fifty  or  one  hundred  feet, 
with  the  opening  just  sufficient  to  admit  a  man.  This  mode  was 
found  extremely  profitable.  Miners  now  also  commenced  pros- 
pecting among  the  rocks  on  this  side  of  the  mountains,  and 
with  very  fair  success. 

Among  the  operators  in  the  mines,  there  were  none,  as  a  class, 
so  generally  successful  as  sailors.  They  were  numerous,  and 
carried  with  them  those  estimable  traits  for  which  they  are  so 
universally  celebrated.  They  were  always,  both  hand  and  purse, 
at  the  disposal  of  their  neighbors.  Nothing  afforded  them  more 
pleasure  than  to  administer  to  the  wants  of  others,  always  act- 
ing upon  the  principle  that  what  they  had  belonged  to  the  world 
at  large,  and  they  were  merely  the  agents  to  superintend  its  dis- 
tribution. There  was  a  bar  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  called 
"Keptune's  Bar,"  worked  entirely  by  sailors,  and  of  the  twenty 
canalling  operations  in  the  vicinity,  it  was  the  only  successful 
one.     They  were  well  remunerated,  and  no  one  envied  their 


104  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

success.  Tbey  would  occasionally  have  a  day  of  recreation, 
when  all  the  neighbors  would  expect  to  drink  ;  in  fact,  it  was 
looked  upon  by  all  as  a  gala  day,  the  amusements  being  of  a 
rare  and  attractive  character.  The  actors  would  generally  drink 
just  enough  to  exhibit  their  most  prominent  traits.  Hogan 
was  full  of  Shakspeare,  and  Tom  of  gunpowder ;  Charley, 
a  true  son  of  Neptune,  would  always  imagine  himself  in  a  gale, 
and  go  aloft  on  the  nearest  tree ;  George  would  laugh  ;  Bill 
would  sing,  and  Geen  would  cry;  Jack  was  a  long,  lank 
boy  of  nineteen ;  his  eyes,  on  such  occasions^  had  a  peculiar  way 
of  closing  themselves  without  his  consent,  and  generally  much 
against  his  will.  The  operation  was  somewhat  like  closing  a 
lady's  work-bag  with  a  draw-string.  He  would  tell  the  "yarns," 
and  it  was  the  only  branch  of  the  profession  in  which  he  was 
au  fait  Hogan  would  give  us  a  medley,  made  up  of  gems  from 
"Macbeth,"  "Eichard  TIL,"  "Much  Ado  about  Nothing,"  and 
the  "Merry  Wives  of  Windsor."  Tom  would  deploy  into  line 
for  action,  Charley  would  fall  through  the  hatch.  Jack  would 
sell  a  magic  hat  to  a  Jew,  while  Prince,  the  cook,  would  be 
searching  his  pockets  for  yeast.  On  one  occasion  Jack  was,  in 
theatrical  parlance^  cast,  in  the  after-piece,  and  he  played  his 
part  with  much  spirit.  He  came  to  the  store  drunk,  with,  a  large 
sack  on  his  shoulder,  en  route  to  the  dry  diggings.  We  tried  to 
dissuade  him  from  crossing  the  river  that  evening,  but  he  was 
determined,  and  staggered  down  towards  the  crossing.  We  all 
followed,  Dewey,  being  furnished  with  a  lasso,  to  fish  him  out 
in  case  of  accident.  Jack  was  somewhat  offended  at  the  interest 
manifested  in  him,  and  mounted  the  log  with  an  emphatic  oath. 
He  walked  steadily  until  he  had  reached  the  middle  of  the 
stream,  when,  thinking  no  doubt  that  it  was  time  to  begin  to 
climb  the  mountain,  he  raised  his  head,  lost  his  balance,  and 
fell  in.  The  weight  of  the  sack  first  took  him  to  the  bottom, 
but  he  soon  rose  to  the  surface,  when  Dewey  threw  the  lasso, 
caught  him  around  the  neck,  and  drew  him  out.  This  was 
somewhat  embarrassing  to  Jack,  but  he  possessed  too  much 
courage,  at  this  particular  time,  to  give  it  up,  and  again  mount- 
ed the  log.  This  time  he  walked  much  farther,  so  that  there 
should  be  no  mistake  about  it,  but  he  again  looked  up  with  the 
same  result  as  before.     The  stream  was  very  rapid,  and  was  fast 


MINERS  ON  A  SPREE.  105 

carrying  him  down,  but  Dewey's  unerring  lasso  took  effect,  and 
he  was  again  drawn  up  the  bank.  This  way  of  wearing  cravats 
Jack  was  not  accustomed  to,  and  it  was  sometime  before  he  could 
raise  wind  sufficient  to  carry  him  from  his  moorings. 

The  third  attempt  was  made  with  better  success.  He  reached 
the  opposite  side,  but  in  stepping  off  the  log,  stumbled,  and,  the 
bank  being  steep,  he  rolled  back  to  the  margin  of  the  river ; 
Dewey  again  threw  the  lasso,  and  Jack  recrossed.  This  closed 
the  scene;  Jackdid  not  come  before  the  curtain,  and,  I  suspect, 
that  if  there  had  been  one  near,  he  would  have  got  behind  it. 

Occasionally  the  miners  of  that  entire  region  of  country  would 
get  on  a  spree,  go  to  some  drinking  establishment,  all  get  tight, 
and  have  a  merry  row.  They  would  keep  it  up  during  the  day, 
and  at  evening  some  one  perhaps  would  propose  going  home. 
This  would  be  favored  by  some,  but  generally  met  by  a  proposi- 
tion to  have  another  round,  which  would  invariably  carry ;  then 
some  would  be  accused  of  not  having  treated ;  he  would  ac- 
knowledge the  soft  impeachment,  and  another  round  would  be 
ordered.  They  would  all  drink  to  friends  at  home  in  general, 
then  to  some  particular  personal  friend.  Some  one  would  pro- 
pose going  to  the  dry  diggings  the  next  day,  prospecting.  Well, 
all  in  favor  of  going  with  Price,  to-morrow,  to  the  dry  diggings, 
will  form  on  this  side — opposed,  on  the  other ;  opposed  are  in 
the  minority,  and  must  treat.  Some  would  get  mad  and  start 
for  their  tents,  but  having,  at  this  particular  time,  very  vague 
ideas  of  localities,  instead  of  going  down  the  river,  they  would 
go  up  the  side  of  the  mountain,  and,  vice  versa;  others  would 
start,  but  by  some  mysterious  movement,  the  earth  would  fly 
up  and  hit  them  in  the  face.  The  balance  of  the  party  would 
take  the  last  drink  and  start,  all  wishing  to  go  to  the  same  place, 
but  each,  having  his  own  peculiar  ideas,  as  to  the  direction. 

After  wandering  about  for  some  time,  each  would  call  to  the 
others,  informing  them  that  he  was  right,  and  of  course  when 
all  were  right  none  were  wrong ;  but  in  the  sequel  no^,  one,  per- 
haps, out  of  the  twenty,  would  reach  his  tent  during  fre  night. 
On  one  occasion,  one  of  the  party,  after  having:  takers  iliQ  last 
drink,  mounted  his  mule,  designing  to  go  one  mile  up  the  river, 
bat,  on  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  ravine,  the  worthy  animal 
turned  down  stream.    In  the  course  of  the  night  the  rider,  as 


106 


CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 


lie  supposed,  reached  his  tent,  and  in  attempting  to  dismount, 
being  somewhat  fatigued^  he  fell  against  the  side  of  it  and  rolled 
in  at  the  bottom ;  to  his  surprise  he  found  it  occupied  bj  an  in- 
dividual, who,  disliking  his  abrupt  entree^  brought  his  revolver 
into  requisition;  the  matter  was  explained,  and  our  worthy 
rider  found  himself  in  the  tent  of  a  stranger,  five  miles  fi:om  his 
ow^n. 


v^ 


i*^«r    ^ 


CjiEptu  ((^igliiniitli. 


ARRIVALS— PKEPARATION  FOR  THE  RAINY  SEASON— NEW  DISCOVERIES— COLOMA— GAM- 
BLERS versus  bayonets — "  hangtown  " — public  executions — fashionable  enter- 
tainments—wild CATTLE— DANGEROUS  SPORTING— MURDERED  INDIANS— THE  WRONGS 
THEY  SUFFER. 

After  tlae  result  of  the  different  canalling  operations  was 
known,  being  about  the  first  of  October,  there  was  a  general 
uneasiness  felt  throughout  the  mines,  partly  owing  to  the  ill- 
success  attending  the  above,  and  in  part  to  a  desire  to  make 
preparations  for  the  approaching  rainy  season,  which  was  ex- 
pected to  set  in  about  the  first  of  November.  People  were 
constantly  arriving  from  San  Francisco,  having  been  informed 
that  this  was  the  ^^ precise  spoV  The  overland  emigration  was 
also  arriving,  and  there  was  a  universal  desire  to  change  posi- 
tions. Those  having  productive  private  leads,  were  anxious  to 
sell,  go  into  the  "  dry  diggings,"  throw  up  dirt,  and  prepare  for 
operating  during  the  rainy  season.  Some  of  the  canalled  bars 
were  not  entirely  abandoned,  and  much  of  the  stock  was  in 
market;  but  those  who  purchased  it,  were  in  a  similar  condi- 
tion to  the  man  who  purchased  the  bear  skin,  the  worthy  owner 
of  which  was  running,  wild  in  the  forest,  little  suspecting  that  so 
important  a  part  of  himself,  had  been  made  the  subject  of  a 
mercantile  contract. 

There  were  frequent  reports  of  rich  discoveries  in  the  moun- 
tain gorges,  and  many  of  them  were  found  quite  productive, 
inducing  the  occupants  to  throw  up  temporary  habitations  to 
protect  them  during  winter.  Those  who  wished  to  retain  their 
claims  on  the  river,  would  do  so  by  leaving  some  utensil  to 
keep  possession,  and  spend  a  week  in  prospecting  in  the  moun- 
tains. If  successful  in  finding  a  productive  spot,  the  pick-axe 
would  be  left  in  charge.    A  rich  deposit  was  found  in  the 


108  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

mountains  about  four  miles  distant,  to  which  the  attention  of 
all  was  directed,  and  many  threw  up  temporary  huts  and  made 
preparation  for  the  approaching  winter.  The  place  immediately 
assumed  the  appearance  of  a  town.  Stores  were  erected  and 
filled,  and  monte-hanhs  established  to  amuse  the  citizens.  This 
newly  discovered  dry  diggings  is  twelve  miles  from  Coloma, 
the  point  at  which  gold  was  first  discovered ;  the  intervening 
distance  being  a  succession  of  mountain  gorges,  all  containing 
gold,  many  of  the  vales  being  in  the  possession  of  herds  of  wild 
cattle,  that  have  never,  until  recently,  been  visited  by  man. 

Coloma  is  situated  on  the  south  fork  of  the  American  River, 
fifty -five  miles  from  Sacramento  City.  The  valley,  though  small, 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  State,  being  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  walled  up  on  either  side  by  lofty 
mountains.  The  saw-mill  in  the  race  of  which  gold  was  first 
discovered,  is  still  standing  and  in  operation.  (See  Plate.)  The 
location  of  the  town  is  extremely  pleasant,  being  near  a  bend  of 
the  river,  and  commanding  an  extended  view  of  the  surround- 
ing country.  It  was  once  infested  by  gamblers,  but  the  miners 
took  the  matter  in  hand  and  drove  them  out  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet.  A  gigantic  enterprise  has  been  undertaken  just  below 
the  town,  by  Mr.  Little,  of  Maine.  There  is  an  abrupt  bend  in 
the  river,  the  sweep  around  being  three  miles,  and  but  a  half- 
mile  across  ;  this  half-mile  is  being  tunneled  to  draw  the  water 
from  the  natural  channel,  which  is  supposed  to  be  very  rich  in 
gold.  A  large  frame  was  erected  here  for  a  flouring-mill,  at 
the  time  the  saw-mill  was  erected ;  but  Mr.  Sutter  changing  his 
plans,  had  it  removed  to  the  fort,  and  after  the  breaking  out  of 
the  gold  excitement  it  was  taken  to  Sacramento  City  and  erected, 
making  the  first  hotel,  in  point  of  size  and  accommodations,  in 
town,  called  the  City  Hotel.  On  the  right  of  the  accompanying 
plate  will  be  seen  a  remnant  of  that  persecuted  and  doomed  race, 
the  native  California  Indians. 

Hangtown,  now  Placerville,  is  situated  three  miles  from  the 
south  fork  of  the  American  River,  twelve  miles  from  Coloma  and 
fifty-five  from  Sacramento  City.  It  "is  a  dry  diggings,  or  mountain 
gorge,  and  one  of  the  most  productive  in  the  State.  The  sur- 
rounding country  is  extremely  mountainous,  with  innumerable 
gorges,  from  which  gold  has  been  obtained  in  great  abundance. 


't^'^e. 


4/ 


'  1    )^;t,-.V^ 

mft:^ 

■•'■:■  'X':- 

-  ^ 


FASHIONABLE   ENTERTAINMENTS.  109 

Its  first  name  originated  in  the  execution  of  two  men,  a  Spaniard 
and  a  Frenchman.  They  were  guilty  of  murder  and  robbery,  tried 
before  Judge  Lynch,  and  executed,  all  within  twenty-four  hours. 

Soon  after  this,  a  man  or  lad,  who  was  known  as  Irish  Dick, 
had  a  difficulty  with  a  person  at  a  gaming  table,  in  the  Eldorado, 
after  which  he  waylaid  and  murdered  him.  This  was  the  second 
murder  of  which  he  had  been  guilty,  and  for  this,  his  own  life 
fell  a  sacrifice.  The  miners  took  him  in  charge,  tied  a  rope 
round  his  neck,  then  giving  him  the  other  end,  compelled  him 
to  climb  a  tree,  go  out  on  one  of  the  limbs,  fasten  the  end  of  the 
rope,  and  at  the  drop  of  a  handkerchief,  jump  off.  He  complied 
with  apparent  cheerfulness,  and  died  without  a  struggle. 

This  is  now  the  first  stopping-place  for  the  overland  emigra- 
tion, from  which  cause,  as  well  as  that  of  the  superior  richness  of 
the  surrounding  mountain  gorges,  it  has  become  a  place  of  much 
importance.  At  the  time  of  which  I  am  writing  there  were 
several  rude  houses  constituting  the  town,  all  under  the  super- 
vision of  males — females,  like  the  visits  of  their  illustrious  proto- 
types, being  few  and  far  between.  I  think  the  first  one  had 
not  yet  made  her  appearance. 

No  nation  with  less  genius  than  the  ''universal  Yankee,"  could 
have  survived  the  privation,  and  even  of  these  it  required  the 
genuine  "wooden  nutmeg"  species,  a  couple  of  specimens  of 
which  are  faintly  portrayed  in  the  accompanying  plate.  Their 
garments  are  of  a  cut  not  generally  adopted  in  the  Atlantic  cities, 
yet  I  can  assure  the  reader  they  are  eminently  fashionable  in 
California.  The  general  appearance  of  these  individuals  is  a 
true  index  to  the  order  and  systematic  arrangement  that  pervade 
the  Interior  of  their  habitation.  Nothing  is  done  for  show  or 
ornament;  everything  bearing  the  impress  of  practicality 
and  economy — one  frying-pan,  two  tin-plates,  both  slightly 
touched  with  ''ile,"  to  prevent  rust,  their  knives  in  their  pockets 
and  forks  in  their  hair.  They  are  just  going  in,  having  finished 
their  day's  work.  They  are  practical  miners,  both  having  made 
fortunes  at  the  business.  Their  house  is  well  known  by  qyqtj 
one  who  has  traveled  through  that  region  of  the  country,  and 
many  will  associate  with  the  "  Yankee  House"  pleasant  recollec- 
tions, it  having  been  a  general  resort  and  nightly  scene  of  a 
sociable  soiree,  or  something  more  brilliant. 


110  CALIFOEXIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

There  are  numerous  herds  of  wild  cattle  in  these  mountainous 
regions,  which  have  never  been  hunted  or  molested  by  man, 
until  since  the  discovery  of  gold,  and  even  now  their  wildness 
and  impetuosity  render  their  capture  extremely  uncertain  and 
perilous.  The  mountaineers,  who  always  carry  their  lives  in 
their  hands  and  court  danger  in  every  form,  are  extremely  loth 
to  attack  a  wild  bullock,  even  when  well  armed  and  mounted. 

The  grizzly  bear  is  a  universal  terror,  and  is  rarely  molested 
by  experienced  hunters,  yet  their  capture  is  thought  less  peril- 
ous than  that  of  a  wild  bullock,  for  these  when  wounded  become 
frantic,  and  nothing  can  withstand  them.  Mr.  Lewis,  a  neigh- 
bor who  had  gained  a  notoriety  by  his  success  in  hunting  the 
grizzly  bear,  having  captured  two  in  one  day,  and  several  others 
at  different  times,  all  through  the  fleetness  and  superior  training 
of  his  mule,  resolved  to  make  an  attempt  upon  a  herd  of  wild 
cattle  that  were  in  the  mountains  not  far  distant.  He  considered 
his  mule  equal  to  any  emergency,  and  having  a  rifle  that  plainly 
spoke  for  itself,  he  started  on  his  perilous  adventure.  He  found 
the  herd  feeding  in  a  ravine,  and  approached  very  near  before 
they  eyed  his  mule  with  suspicion.  They  seemed  quite  uncon- 
scious of  approaching  danger,  until  one  of  them,  catching  the 
scent  of  the  foe,  threw  up  his  head,  gave  the  peculiar  signal,  and 
all  were  in  motion ;  at  this  instant  the  rifle  was  discharged,  the 
ball  taking  effect  in  the  neck  of  one  of  the  bullocks,  bringing 
him  upon  his  knees;  he  immediately  recovered,  and  wheeling 
about,  bounded  with  headlong  speed  in  the  direction  of  the  mule. 
The  moment  was  a  critical  one,  the  mule  under  the  sting  of  the 
spur  was  doing  his  utmost,  the  bullock  in  hot  pursuit,  his  eyes 
flashing  fire,  his  tongue  hanging  from  his  mouth,  the  bluod 
streaming  from  his  nostrils,  and  he  foaming  and  bellowing  with 
the  most  terrific  furj^,  gaining  upon  his  adversaries  at  every 
bound.  At  length,  he  was  upon  them,  the  rider  seeing  no 
other  alternative,  caught  the  limb  of  a  tree  letting  the  mule 
pass  on.  The  next  bound,  however,  was  his  last,  for  the  bul- 
lock overtaking  him,  struck  him  in  the  side  bringing  him  to  the 
ground,  and  after  goring  him  several  times,  bounded  away  in 
the  direction  taken  by  the  herd,  and  soon  disappeared.  Upon 
visiting  the  location  of  the  above- described  occurrence  a  few 
days  thereafter,  in  passing  through  a  slight  gorge,  I  came  upon 


-v# 


M^      \    % 


.  H      •    :*■ 


^ 


THE  INDIANS — THE  WAY  THEY  SUFFER.  Ill 

the  bodies  of  three  Indians  wlio  had  been  dead  apparently 
about  two  weeks,  each  bearing  the  marks  of  the  unerring  rifle ; 
they  had  been  among  the  whites  as  their  dresses  indicated,  two 
of  them  having  on  jean  shirts,  the  other  a  blue  flannel.  Two 
of  them  were  shot  through  the  chest,  the  other  through  the 
head;  the  sight  was  a  sad  one,  and  gave  rise  to  melancholy 
reflections,  for  here  these  poor  beings  are  hunted  and  shot  down 
like  wild  beasts,  and  these  no  doubt  fell  bj  the  hand  of  the 
assassin,  not  for  kicre  but  to  satiate  a  feehng  of  revenge. 

In  an  adjoining  territory  the  "red  man"  had  a  quiet  home; 
their  "wigwams"  were  always  supplied  with  venison,  their 
corn-fields  ripened  in  autumn,  their  rude  traps  furnished  clothing 
for  the  winter,  and  in  the  spring  they  danced  in  praise  of  the 
"Great  Spirit "  for  causing  flowers  to  bloom  upon  the  graves 
of  their  fathers ;  but  the  white  stranger  came  and  took  posses- 
sion of  their  hunting  grounds  and  streams,  and  harvested  their 
corn.  They  held  a  council  and  decided  that  the  Great  Spirit 
had  sent  the  white  stranger,  and  it  would  be  wrong  not  to 
give  him  all  he  wished;  they  collected  their  traps,  bows,  and 
arrows,  and  prepared  to  fall  back  in  search  of  new  streams  and 
hunting  grounds;  they  paid  the  last  visit  to  the  graves  of  their 
fathers.  What  were  their  feelings  ?  The  moon  threw  a  pale,  dim 
light  through  the  foliage,  the  air  breathed  a  mournfal  sigh  as 
they  reached  the  lonely  mound ;  the  stout-hearted  warrior  drew 
his  blanket  to  hide  his  tears  as  he  bowed  down  to  commune  for 
the  last  time  with  the  spirits  that  had  so  often  blessed  him  in 
the  chase ;  his  heart  was  too  fall,  and  he  fell  upon  his  face  and 
wept  bitterly.  But,  a  last  adieu;  they  rise,  cross  the  arrows 
over  the  grave,  and  walk  mournfully  away ;  the  Great  Spirit 
gives  them  a  new  hunting  ground,  and  the  corn  ripens  on  the 
plain,  but  soon  the  white  stranger  comes  and  tells  them  to  fall 
back.  They  are  at  the  base  of  the  mountain ;  there  are  no  hunt- 
ing grounds  beyond ;  if  they  go  into  the  mountain  their  corn 
will  not  ripen,  and  their  "papooses"  will  starve  in  the  wigwam; 
they  hold  a  council  and  decide  to  defend  their  homes  against 
the  encroachments  of  the  white  stranger.  The  whites  were 
strong,  and  drove  the  red  man  into  the  mountains,  and  for  the 
crime  of  having  tried  to  defend  their  homes  and  offspring,  they 
are  placed  under  a  ban,  and  hunted  down  like  wild  beasts.    No 


112  CALIFOKJOA  ILLUSTRATED. 

matter  where  they  are  found  the  crime  of  being  a  red  man  is  a 
forfeiture,  not  onlj  of  all  right  to  property  but  to  life  itself 

Will  not  some  philanthropist  rise  above  sectional  prejudices, 
and  undertake  the  regeneration  of  this  truly  noble  but  down- 
trodden people?  Had  I  the  wealth  of  an  Astor  I  would  not 
wish  a  better  or  nobler  field  for  immortality. 

The  first  man  I  met  after  my  arrival  in  the  interior  was  an 
Oregonian  on  horseback,  armed  with  a  revolving  rifle  in  search  of 
Indians.  He  had  had  a  horse  stolen,  and  presumed  it  was  taken 
by  an  Indian;  he  swore  he  "would  shoot  the  first  red-skin  he 
met,"  and  I  had  no  reason  to  doubt  his  word;  still  the  chances 
were  ninety-nine  out  of  the  hundred,  that  the  horse  was  stolen 
by  a  white  man.  I  have  no  doubt  the  three  Indians  above 
spoken  of  were  wantonly  shot  while  walking  peaceably  along 
their  trail. 


C!rfl|itn  Mlntittni^. 


CANALLING  OPERATIONS — UNSUCCESSFUL  EXPERIMENTS — COFFEE  MILLS  AND  GOLD  WASH- 
ERS— FORMATION  OF  BARS — GOLD  REMOVED  FROM  THE  MOUNTAINS  DURING  THE  RAINY 
SEASON — SNOW  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS,  AND  ITS  DISSOLUTION — RISE  AND  FALL  OF  THE 
BIVER— STOCK  SPECULATIONS — QUICKSILVER  MACHINES— SEPARATION  OF  GOLD  AND 
QUICKSILVER — INDIVIDUAL  ENTERPRISE — INCENTIVES  TO  EXERTION — EXPENSES. 

To  give  the  reader  a  more  definite  idea  of  the  success  attend- 
ing mining,  I  will  detail  the  result  of  the  different  operations 
in  the  vicinity  of  my  place  of  business,  commencing  one 
mile  above  and  extending  four  below ;  this  is  said  to  be  as  rich 
as  the  same  extent  on  any  river  in  the  country.  The  Man- 
hattan Bar  was  canalled  and  dammed  by  the  Manhattan  Co., 
being  a  party  of  Kew  Yorkers,  including  Gen.  "Winchester  and 
brother.  After  expending  a  large  amount  in  turning  the  watei 
from  the  bed  of  the  river,  they  purchased  several  quicksilver 
machines  at  one  thousand  dollars  each,  and  immediately  put 
them  in  motion.  It  required  but  few  days  to  convince  them  of 
the  failure  that  must  attend  the  enterprise ;  the  machines  did 
not  collect  enough  to  pay  the  men  who  worked  them,  and  they 
were  immediately  abandoned  for  the  common  rocker,  which,  in 
their  turn,  were  abandoned  together  with  the  entire  work. 

The  next  in  order  was  the  Yigilance  Bar;  here  a  large 
amount  of  money  was  expended,  and  almost  the  entire  summer 
devoted  to  the  construction  of  a  dam  and  canal,  all  of  which 
proved  an  entire  loss  to  the  parties  concerned ;  they  did  not  get 
enough  to  pay  for  the  provisions  consumed  during  the  construc- 
tion of  the  work.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  this  was  the 
Union  Bar;  a  still  greater  amount  in  money  and  labor  was  ex- 
pended here,  bat,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Yigilance  Co.,  it  proved 
a  total  failure.  In  these  two  cases,  sixty  men  had  spent  the 
entire  summer  in  hard  labor,  and  now  were  obhged  to  encoun- 
8 


116  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

As  the  sun  approaclies  the  meridian,  streams  become  swollen, 
frequently  rising  several  feet,  and  fall  as  it  disappears  behind 
the  mountains.  It  ceases  to  rain  about  the  first  of  March,  but 
in  consequence  of  the  immense  quantities  of  snow  on  the  moun- 
tains, streams  do  not  resume  their  natural  channels  until  the 
first  of  July,  at  which  time,  deposits  made  durirjg  the  flood 
-are  found,  as  a  general  thing,  above  water-mark.  One  cause 
and  perhaps  the  main  one,  of  the  almost  universal  failure  of 
canalling  operations  is,  that  the  facilities  attained  do  not  coun- 
terbalance the  enormous  expenditures  requisite.  Another  difli- 
culty  is  that  a  company  of  thirty  men  cannot,  in  the  mines, 
operate  with  the  same  economy  of  time  that  they  can  when 
working  in  pairs.  As  I  had  lost  on  my  stock  in  the  Mormon 
Bar  I  determined  to  make  it  up  by  buying  in  the  balance,  which 
I  did  at  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  per  share,  and  eventually 
sold  it  at  several  hundred  per  cent,  advance  to  a  company  de- 
signing to  operate  upon  it  with  quicksilver  machines.  Gen. 
Winchester  k  Co.  became  joint  owners,  and  soon  several  of  the 
machines  were  in  successful  operation,  propelled  by  water  drawn 
from  the  canal.  The  success  of  the  experiment  was  placed 
beyond  a  doubt.  The  machines  used  were  called  the  "Burk 
rocker."  They  were  placed  on  an  inclined  plane,  and  in  the 
upper  riffles,  which  were  of  iron,  was  placed  a  quantity  of  quick- 
silver. Dirt  was  thrown  in  at  the  upper  end  of  the  machines, 
and  as  it  was  washed  through,  the  rocking  motion  would  bring 
it  in  contact  with  the  quicksilver,  which  having  a  strong  af&nity 
for  the  gold,  carefully  collects  it  without  including  any  other 
substance.  After  the  quicksilver  has  taken  up,  or  freighted 
itself  to  its  utmost  capacity,  and  become  a  solid  mass,  or  amal- 
gam, it  is  taken  out  and  its  place  supplied. 

In  separating  the  gold  and  quicksilver  the  amalgam  is  put 
into  a  retort,  to  the  top  of  which  is  screwed  a  crooked  iron  tube, 
the  end  passing  into  a  vessel  of  water.  A  heat  is  raised  under 
the  retort  of  six  hundred  degrees,  which  causes  the  quicksilver 
to  evaporate  and  pass  up  into  the  tube,  when  it  condenses  and 
passes  down  into  the  water.  This  operation  is  performed  at  a 
loss  of  only  two  and  a  half  per  cent,  of  the  quicksilver.  These 
machines  were  purchased  at  a  cost  of  one  thousand  dollars  each, 
although  in  the  States  they  are  worth  less  than  forty.     Theii^ 


EXPENSES.  117 

operation  -was  very  successful,  and  liad  it  not  been  for  tlie  early 
delug;e  would  have  made  fortunes  for  their  owners. 

The  result  attending  individual  enterprise  was  similar  to  that 
of  canalling,  with  the  exception  that  in  the  former  case  heavy 
debts  were  not  contracted,  and  the  individual,  if  he  had  not  a 
fortune  in  his  pocket,  felt  that  what  he  earned  was  his  own.  I 
had  a  good  opportunity  to  learn  the  daily  proceeds  of  each 
man's  labor,  my  scale  being  at  their  service  and  almost  univer- 
sally used.  I  could  name  one  hundred  individuals,  take  them 
in  order  as  they  were  operating  along  the  river,  and  not  more 
than  ten  of  the  number  had,  at  the  commencement  of  the  rainy 
season,  sufficient  means  to  purchase  provisions  for  the  winter. 
They  had  labored  hard ;  to-day,  opening  a  lead ;  to-morrow,  get- 
ting out  an  ounce ;  and  the  day  after  prospecting.  They  had 
been  all  summer  just  on  the  eve  of  making  a  rich  discovery  and 
a  fortune,  the  prospect  was  always  bright  and  cheering,  the  prize 
just,  almost,  within  the  grasp — to-morrow — never  more  distant 
than  to-morrow.  The  lead  is  open  to-day,  to-morrow  the 
reward,  that  to-morrow  dawned  to  comparatively  few.  It  is 
still  about  to  dawn,  and  sought  with  the  same  enthusiasm. 
Could  the  miners  have  pocketed  all  they  took  from  the  earth, 
few,  perhaps,  would  have  had  reason  to  complain,  but  the  attend- 
ing expenses  were  so  great  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to  live 
and  keep  anything  in  the  purse.  They  would  eat  up  at  night 
what  they  had  earned  during  the  day,  consequently  the  proceeds 
of  labor  passed  immediately  into  the  hands  of  those  in  trade. 


Clia|itn  Cntjntidlj. 


COMMOTION  IN  THE  POLITICAL  ELEMENTS — CALIFORNIA  A  STATE — SLAVERY  PROHIBITED — 
POLITICAL  CAMPAIGN,  AND  THE  RAINT  SEASON — SPEECH  OF  A  -VTOULD-BE-GOTERNOR — 
ENTHUSIASM  AND  BRANDY  —  ELECTION  DISTRICTS  —  BALLOT-BOXES  ANT)  UMBRELLAS — 
MINERS  IN  A  TRANSITION  STATE — PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  RAINY  SEASON — PRIMITIVB 
HABITATIONS — TRADE  IMPROVING ADVENT  OF  THE  BAIN^  SEASON — ITS  TERRIFIC  EF- 
FECTS— RAPID  RISE  OF  THE  RIVER — MACHINT:S  DESTROYED — ARRIVALS — MY  STORE  ANI> 
BED — A  BUSnsESS  SUIT — DISTRESSING  GROANS — THE  BOTTLE  A  CONSOLATION — SEVERAI. 
STRANGE  SPECIMENS  OF  HUMANITY  COOKING  BREAETAST — THE  SCURVY — A  DEATH. 

We  now,  for  the  first  time,  had  a  commotion  in  the  political 
elements,  which  resulted  in  erecting  California  into  a  State  and 
placing  her,  the  "bright  particular  star,"  in  this  glorious  con- 
stellation. An  election  was  ordered,  and  delegates  selected  to 
draft  a  Constitution  for  the  State.  They  met  at  Monterey,  and 
after  a  few  days'  deliberation  passed  upon  the  Constitution  which 
is  hereunto  annexed,  and  which  was  eventually  ratified  by  an 
almost  unanimous  vote  of  the  people.  The  greatest  unanimity 
prevailed  at  the  Convention,  the  deliberations  conducted  with 
the  utmost  dignity,  each  seeming  desirous  to  act  for  the  best 
interests  of  the  country.  The  clause  prohibiting  slavery,  or 
involuntary  servitude,  passed  by  a  unanimous  vote,  although 
many  of  the  delegates  were  interested  in  slave  property  in  the 
States.  The  nominations  were  made  for  State  officers,  and, 
although  party  lines  were  not  strictly  drawn,  every  preparation 
was  made  for  a  vigorous  campaign. 

The  election  was  to  take  place  on  the  15th  day  of  ISTovember, 
and  by  the  time  the  nominees  were  ready  to  take  the  "stump," 
the  rainy  season  was  upon  us.  Just  picture  to  your  imagination 
a  would-be-governor,  in  a  slouched  India  rubber  hat,  aponchoy 
and  high  boots,  standing  near  a  tent  on  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain holding  forth  to  a  highly  patriotic  audience  of  six,  the  rain 
pouring  down  in  torrents,     i^o'.hing  could  dampen  the  ardor  of 


RAINY  SEASON.  119 

the  speaker ;  lie  had  enlisted  in  the  cause  of  the  dear  people, 
and  nothing  could  induce  him  to  swerve  from  the  performance 
of  his  duty.  The  gist  of  his  remarks  was  as  follows: — 
"  Fellow  citizens,  you  have  rights  to  protect.  [Hurrah!  Three 
cheers  and  two  drinks  of  brandy.]  Fll  spend  my  last  hreath  in 
the  vindication  of  those  rights,  [Three  morel!]  The  mineral 
lands  ought  to  be  given  to  the  people.  [Three  times  three  1 ! ! 
Three  cheers  and  six  drinks.]  Have  not  the  sovereign  people 
made  this  country  what  it  is?  [Yes  1  Yes ! !  and  great  cheering.] 
If  I  am  elected  I  will  use  my  influence  to  have  this  immense 
tract  of  country,  now  claimed  by  Sutter,  divided  among  the 
people."  [Immense  sensation  and  cheering.]  After  order  was 
again  restored,  the  speaker  was  invited  to  step  out  of  the  pud- 
dle of  water  that  had  dripped  from  his  poncho^  and  take  some- 
thing to  drink.  The  meeting  was  conducted  with  much  spirit^ 
and  resulted  in  securing  the  votes  of  a  majority  present  for  the 
would-be- Governor. 

At  this  time,  this  district  of  country,  called  the  Minerva  dis- 
trict, had  become  so  populous  that  municipal  officers  had  been 
elected,  and  now  it.was  regularly  divided  into  election  districts, 
and  arrangements  made  to  open  polls  wherever  it  was  deemed 
necessary.  The  qualification  for  an  elector  was  to  be  an  Amer- 
ican citizen.  The  most  prominent  candidates  for  Governor 
were  Judge  Burnett,  H.  S.  Sherwood  and  Eodman  M.  Price,  of 
whom  the  former  was  elected.  On  the  day  of  election  the  bal- 
lots were  deposited  in  a  hat,  over  which  one  of  the  inspectors 
held  an  umbrella. 

The  middle  of  October  finds  the  miners  in  a  transition  state. 
There  has  not  a  drop  of  rain  fallen  during  the  entire  summer, 
and  the  earth,  six  feet  below,  is  as  dry  as  on  the  surface ;  one 
cannot  move  without  being  enveloped  in  dust;  and  vegetation 
is  as  crisp  as  if  it  had  just  been  taken  from  the  oven.  There 
has  been  no  haze  to  shield  the  earth  from  the  sun,  and  at  night 
the  stars  have  twinkled  with  unwonted  brilliancy ;  but  now  the 
sun  has  grown  dim  and  pale,  and  the  stars  have  fled  to  their 
hiding-place.  Miners  are  admonished  that  it  is  time  to  prepare 
for  an  untried  winter,  and  on  every  hand  is  evinced  a  disposi- 
tion not  to  be  taken  unawares.  Here  on  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain is  a  habitation,  three  logs  high,  covered  with  canvas,  the 


120  CALIFORXIA   ILLUSTEATED. 

crevices  well  "  mudded,"  all  the  light  used  being  admitted  thronigh 
the  door.  There  is  a  cave,  walled  and  roofed  with  rocks,  the 
canvas  closing  the  entrance  being  the  only  indication  that  it  is 
a  tenement.  An  army  tent  is  also  seen,  which  is  well  secured, 
as  if  in  momentary  expectation  of  the  approaching  blast ;  dirt 
has  been  thrown  well  over  the  foot,  to  prevent  the  winds  from 
searching  out  the  occupant.  In  front  is  a  tree,  under  which  is 
a  camp-kettle  and  frying-pan,  and  near  are  a  few  dying  embers, 
the  smoke  curling  up  and  mingling  with  the  foliage.  It  seemed 
hard  that  one  accustomed  to  the  luxury  of  a  comfortable  home, 
should  be  doomed  to  spend  the  winter  in  this  forlorn  condition. 
Climbing  up  the  side  of  the  mountain,  are  seen  mules  hea^dly 
laden  with  provisions  and  mining  utensils,  which  are  destined 
to  some  favorite  spot  in  the  mountain  gorges.  Trade  begins  to 
improve,  miners  are  laying  in  their  supplies  for  the  winter,  and 
merchants  find  their  stocks  exhausted,  and  are  driven  to  town 
to  replenish.  The  sun  assumes  a  peculiar  color,  and  where  it 
is  reflected  in  the  water  is  a  "royal"  purple.  Its  rays  had  be- 
come very  dim,  and  on  the  27th  of  October  the  deluge  burst 
upon  us. 

General  Winchester  and  company  had  just  placed  their  quick- 
silver machine,  and  commenced  successful  operations  on  the  bar, 
but  one  night  destroyed  their  works,  carrying  one  of  their 
machines,  laden  with  twenty-five  pounds  of  quicksilver,  a 
distance  of  three  miles,  destroying  it,  and  emptying  its  valuable 
contents  into  the  river.  The  rise  of  the  river  was  so  rapid  that 
those  on  the  opposite  side,  when  it  commenced  to  rain,  found  it 
impossible  to  recross  six  hours  after.  The  scene  was  most  ter- 
rific ;  the  mountain  on  either  side  of  the  river,  rose  almost 
perpendicularly,  and  the  torrents  rushed  down,  undermining  huge 
rocks,  which,  after  making  a  few  leaps,  would  come  in  contact 
with  others  of  equal  dimensions,  when  both,  with  one  terrific 
bound,  would  dash  into  the  chasm  below. 

Mining  operations  were,  for  the  time,  suspended,  and  miners, 
many  of  whom  were  destitute  of  even  the  protection  of  a  tent, 
were  hovering  about  their  fires  in  a  most  desponding  mood; 
many  were  entirely  destitute  of  means,  and  cooking,  perhaps, 
their  last  day's  supply.  Teams  were  constantly  arriving  with 
miners  fresh  from  the  States,  who  would  descend  the  mountain 


(■  y.r.rtartt  ofi 


ON    SlONf  BY  J  '.AMtBON 


LOOKfN(.     DOWN    THE   BIG    CANON 


STRANGE  SPECIMENS  OF  HUMANITY.  121 

•witb.  higli  hopes,  having  been  so  fortunate  as  to  fall  in  with  some 
one  who  had  directed  them  to  this  particular  spot.  They  t\  ere 
generally  well  supplied  with  provisions,  and  notwithstanding  the 
drenching  rain,  one  hour  after  their  advent  would  find  them 
busily  engaged  with  the  pan  and  pick-axe. 

The  store  I  occupied  was  made  by.  driving  stakes  into  the 
ground,  and  inclosing  with  common  unbleached  muslin ;  the 
roof  flat,  covered  with  the  same  material.  It  had  answered  a 
good  purpose  during  the  summer,  but  for  the  rainy  season,  I  am 
not  prepared  to  say  it  was  exactly  the  thing.  I  do  not  know 
that  the  rain  fell  faster  inside  than  out,  but  some  of  my  neigh- 
bors insinuated  that  it  did.  I  could  keep  tolerably  dry  by  wear- 
ing an  India  rubber  cap,  poncho^  and  long  boots,  with  the  aid  of 
a  good  umbrella,  in  short,  this  was  my  regular  business  suit. 
For  a  bed,  I  had  a  scaffold  made  of  poles,  on  which  I  had  a  ham- 
mock stuffed  with  grass  and  straw,  using  a  pair  of  blankets  as 
covering.  In  order  to  keep  my  bed  dry  I  had  a  standard  at 
the  head  and  foot,  on  which  was  a  pole  running  "fore  and  aft," 
serving  as  a  ridge-pole,  over  which  was  thrown  an  India  rubber 
blanket.  On  going  to  bed  I  would  throw  up  one  corner  of  my 
India  rubber  blanket,  holding  my  umbrella  over  the  opening, 
and  after  taking  off  my  boots,  I  would  crawl  in  feet  first,  throw 
back  the  rubber  to  its  place,  then  tying  my  umbella  to  the  head 
standard  I  was  in  bed.  My  friends,  Fairchild,  Tracy,  Jones, 
and  Dean  were  not  so  fortunate.  They  would  lay  down  on  the 
ground  in  their  blankets,  and  in  one  hour  would  be  drenched 
to  the  skin ;  in  this  condition  they  were  obliged  to  spend  the 
balance  of  the  night.  Jones  (formerly  of  the  Cornucopia,  New 
York)  had  a  severe  cough,  his  lungs  being  much  affected,  and 
he  thought  he  was  fast  declining  with  the  consumption.  After 
becoming  drenched  and  chilled  his  cough  would  set  in,  which, 
together  with  his  distressing  groans,  would  render  night  hideous, 
and  cast  a  gloom  over  the  most  buoyant  spirit.  On  rising  in 
the  morning,  the  bottle  was  our  first  consolation ;  it  would  ele- 
vate our  spirits,  and  drive  the  chilly  sensation  from  our  limbs. 
A  few  large  sticks  had  been  thrown  together  and  set  on  fire, 
around  which  would  be  seen  a  dozen  strange-looking  specimens 
of  humanity,  one  with  a  red  flannel  shirt,  part  of  a  glazed  cap, 
and  torn  unmentionables ;  another  with  a  woolen-blanket,  that 


122  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

could  boast  of  having  secured,  on  the  previous  night,  what  rain 
had  fallen  in  its  immediate  vicinity ;  another  with  an  India  rubber 
poncho  and  a  hat  that  had  been  used  both  sides  out,  and,  as  if  to 
assume  a  ferocious  appearance,  it  had  adopted  the  color  of  the 
grizzly  bear.  All  hovering  around  the  fire,  some  with  pieces  of 
pork  on  the  ends  of  sticks,  others  with  something  in  a  frying-pan, 
covered  with  a  tin  plate  ;  one  is  stirring  flour  and  water  together, 
while  his  companion  is  trjring  to  turn  the  cakes ;  about  every 
other  one  is  disposed  to  go  into  the  fire. 

A  disease  at  this  time  manifested  itself,  the  symptoms  of  which 
were  of  a  peculiar  nature.  It  was  called  the  "land  scurvy," 
and  was  caused  by  a  want  of  proper  vegetable  diet.  The  blood 
of  the  system  became  thick  and  turgid,  and  diminished  in  quan- 
tity ;  there  was  but  little  circulation  at  the  extremities,  or  near 
the  surface  of  the  body,  the  fleshy  parts  becoming  almost  life- 
less ;  the  gums  became  black  and  not  unfrequently  the  teeth 
would  fall  out,  the  gums  having  so  entirely  wasted  away.  The 
malady  became  fearfully  prevalent,  and  no  remedy  could  be  ob- 
tained ;  vegetables  were  not  to  had,  there  were  none  in  the 
country.  There  had  been  a  few,  a  very  few,  potatoes  in  the 
market,  at  prices  varying  from  four  shillings  each  to  a  dollar 
and  a  half  per  pound,  but  the  supply  was  too  scanty  to  arrest 
the  disease,  and  many  had  become  almost  entirely  disabled. 

On  the  28th  of  October,  a  man  from  Illinois  fell  a  victim 
to  this  dreadful  malady,  and  on  the  29th,  it  was  our  painful  duty 
to  bear  him  to  that  lonely  hill  and  consign  him  to  the  tomb.  A 
board  was  placed  at  his  head,  on  which  was  cut  his  brief  epitaph. 
What  a  strange  commentary  upon  the  vicissitudes  of  human 
life.  He  was  once  an  infant,  fondled  and  caressed  by  an  affec- 
tionate mother,  a  youth  counseled  by  a  doting  father,  and  em- 
braced and  loved  by  sisters  and  brothers.  He  grew  to  manhood, 
pledged  his  hand  and  heart  to  the  one  he  loved,  combatted, 
perhaps,  with  adversity,  and  finally  bade  farewell  to  his  own  off- 
spring, to  die  a  stranger  in  a  strange  land. 


Cjiaptn  €mtnl\i4hni. 


DANGEROUS  NAVIGATION— A  TRIP  OVER  THE  FALLS— A  NIGHT  FROM  HOME— SAILOB 
HOSPITALITY — SCARCITY  OF  PROVISIONS — A  HAZARDOUS  ALTERNATIVE — A  WAYWARD 
BOY — PREPARTIONS  FOR  LEAVING  THE  INTERIOR — DISTRIBUTION  OF  EFFECTS — OUR 
TRAVELING  SUIT — START  FOR  SAN  FRANCISCO — FAREWELL — THREE  INDIVIDUALS  UN- 
DER A  FULL  HEAD  OF  STEAM— ARRIVAL  AT  THE  "  HALF-WAY  TENT  "—POOR  ACCOM- 
MODATIONS—A MORNING  WALK  AND  POOR  BREAKFAST— WADING  LAGOONS— WILD 
GEESE- ARRIVAL  AT  THE  AMERICAN  RIVER— OUR  TOILET,  AND  ENTRY  INTO  SACRAMENTO 
CITY. 

The  river  had  become  much  swollen,  and  biirst  through 
among  the  rocks  with  the  greatest  fury.  The  rumbling  of  the 
rocks  and  stone  as  they  were  hurled  from  their  beds,  was  inces- 
sant and  almost  deafening.  Many  of  my  friends  lived  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  I  had  purchased  a  boat  for  their 
accommodation.  The  only  place  where  a  boat  could  be  rowed 
across  with  safety,  was  above  a  fall  occasioned,  in  part,  by  a  dam. 
The  water  here  was  extremely  rapid,  but  by  heading  well  up 
stream,  could  be  crossed  in  safety.  Tracy  generally  volunteered 
to  do  the  ferrying,  but  when  I  was  disengaged  I  would  do  it 
myself. 

On  one  occasion,  a  party  of  six  wished  to  cross,  and  I  went 
down  with  them,  paddled  out  into  the  stream,  and  as  the  boat 
came  in  contact  with  the  strongest  current,  it  swung  around, 
when  one  of  the  passengers  becoming  frightened,  applied  a  pad- 
dle on  the  upper  side  which  aimed  the  boat  for  the  fall,  leaving 
no  alternative  but  to  go  over.  The  fall  was  several  feet,  and 
below  it  huge  masses  of  rock ;  the  roaring  of  the  water  was  ter- 
rific, almost  deafening,  and  it  was  night.  We  were  swept 
along  with  the  velocity  of  an  arrow,  and  as  we  came  to  the 
brink  I  discovered  the  hmbs  of  a  tree,  which  had  floated  down 
and  caught.  Being  in  the  stern  of  the  boat,  I  rose  up  and  as  it 
was  about  to  break  over,  jumped  and  caught  to  the  limb, 
my  companions  going  over  with  the  boat.     My  situation  was 


124  CALIFOEXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

the  most  perilous  imaginable.  I  was  in  the  middle  of  the  stream 
on  the  very  brink  of  the  precipice,  the  water  np  to  my  shoulders, 
and  the  stones  tumbling  from  beneath  my  feet ;  my  only  support 
being  the  Hmb,  to  which  I  clung  as  if  for  life.  It  required  almost 
superhuman  effort  to  keep  from  being  swept  from  my  hold  by 
the  strength  of  the  current.  After  feeling  a  little  more  secure, 
I  felt  below  the  surface  and  found  another  limb  to  which  I 
clung,  taking  one  step  in  the  direction  of  the  shore ;  after  grop- 
ing about,  I  found  another  and  the  last.  I  had  now  almost 
gained  the  upper  side  of  a  rock  which  rested  on  the  brink  just 
below  the  surface  of  the  water.  It  was  a  crisis;  it  was  ex- 
tremely doubtful  whether  I  could  throw  myself  with  sufficient 
force  to  catch  the  upper  side  of  the  rock.  If  I  missed,  the 
chances  of  life  were  against  me,  as  I  had  no  doubt  some,  if  not 
all  of  my  companions  had  already  found  a  watery  grave.  It  was 
rso  time  for  deliberation,  and  straining  every  nerve,  I  made  one 
desperate  struggle  and  gained  the  rock.  I  still  had  fifteen  feet 
of  the  strength  of  the  current  to  overcome,  but  by  dexterous 
movements  I  succeeded  in  reaching  the  shore. 

I  immediately  went  in  search  of  my  friends  ;  fortunately,  we 
had  two  sailors  with  us,  Billy  and  Charley,  before  spoken  of. 
The  boat  ended  over  in  passing  down.  Charley  and  Billy  found 
their  way  to  the  shore,  but  Mr.  Byram  was  dashed  along 
among  the  rocks,  apparently  lifeless.  They  rushed  in  again 
and  succeeded  in  dragging  his  body  to  the  shore ;  we  then  hur- 
ried on  to  learn  the  fate  of  the  others.  On  reaching  the  bend  of 
the  river  we  found  the  boat  drifted  against  the  rock,  they  cling- 
ing to  its  sides ;  they  threw  the  hawser,  and  we  drew  the  boat 
to  the  shore.  Mr.  Byram  recovered,  and  we  congratulated  our- 
selves upon  the  auspicious  termination  of  the  adventure.  They 
had  been  purchasing  a  quantity  of  provisions — flour,  sugar,  cof- 
fee, &c.,  all  of  which  were  "  turned  over"  to  tempt  the  appetite 
of  the  fishes. 

Their  encampment  was  a  mile  above,  and  as  it  was  impossible 
to  recross  the  river  here,  I  went  with  them,  in  hopes  of  being  able 
to  ferry  over  in  a  small  boat  they  owned,  but  on  arriving,  found 
it  had  been  carried  away  by  the  freshet.  The  evening  was 
chilly ;  I  was  drenched ;  I  had  left  things  in  an  unsafe  condi- 
tion at  the  store,  and  as  my  friends  imagined  me  drowned,  I  de- 


SCAECITY  OF  PEOVISIONS.  125 

termined  to  leturn  and  endeavor  to  recross  in  my  own  boat. 
On  arriving  I  turned  it  on  tlie  side  as  far  as  possible,  to  relieve 
it  of  the  water  inside,  then  tying  the  hawser  to  my  arm,  I 
stepped  on  board.  I  was  carried  down  with  the  greatest  velocity 
for  some  distance,  when  I  brought  up  against  a  rock.  I  was 
again  in  motion,  and  again  sided  against  a  rock  with  such  force 
that  the  water  burst  over  filling  my  boat.  There  was  now  no 
alternative  but  to  try  to  reach  the  shore,  which,  after  sundry  coM 
baths,  I  succeeded  in  doing. 

It  was  now  late,  and  the  night  was  extremely  dark.  One 
mile  below  were  two  sailor  friends,  and  I  resolved  to  reach 
their  encampment.  The  first  part  of  the  route  lay  over  a  rocky 
promontory,  overhanging  the  river.  I  passed  over  this  by 
clinging  to  the  shrubs  and  points  of  rocks.  Occasionally  one  of 
the  latter  would  leap  from  its  bed,  and  with  one  terrific  bound, 
disappear  in  the  water  below.  On  gaining  the  other  side,  I 
found  the  route  easy,  and  soon  gained  the  point  of  destination. 
I  received  a  welcome  from  Tom  and  George  (before  spoken  of) 
that  sailors  only  know  how  to  give.  Tom  cut  wood,  built  a  fire 
against  a  rock,  and  I  was  soon  comfortably  incased  in  a  sailor's 
suit,  mine  hanging  by  the  fire,  George,  in  the  meantime,  boiling 
the  tea-kettle,  frying  pork  and  toasting  bread,  and  I  was  soon 
invited  into  the  tent  to  partake  of  their  hospitalities.  Tom 
assisted  me  in  the  morning;  I  reached  my  tent  at  noon.  To 
Tom,  George,  Charley,  and  Billy,  (the  latter  has  since  died) — 
may  fortune  crown  their  efforts,  and  friendship  always  smile  ! 

The  mining  districts  soon  became  almost  destitute  of  provis- 
ions, and  the  country  impassable  in  consequence  of  the  immense 
fall  of  rain.  There  was  a  reported  scarcity  of  flour,  and  it  rose 
in  one  day,  at  San  Francisco,  from  $16  to  $40  per  barrel,  and 
in  the  mines  from  80  cents  to  $1.50  per  pound.  I  had  laid  in 
a  good  supply  at  a  low  price,  but  after  this  was  exhausted  the 
only  way  in  which  I  could  keep  a  supply,  was  to  buy  out  those 
who  were  about  to  return  to  town.  There  was  an  almost  uni- 
versal desire  to  leave  the  mines,  and  but  few  remained  except- 
ing those  who  were  from  necessity  compelled  to.  Some  were 
preparing  to  return  to  the  States ;  the  number,  however,  was 
few.  We  had  formed  strong  attachments,  having  participated 
in  so  many  vicissitudes,  and  the  thought  of  separating  gave  rise 


126  CALIFOROTA  ILLUSTRATED. 

to  gloomy  reflections,  particularly  to  those  who  were  to  remain. 
The  supply  of  provisions  had  become  so  entirely  exhaustedj 
that  many  had  resolved  upon  the  hazardous  alternative  of  going 
into  the  mountains,  and  wintering  on  the  food  procured  with 
their  rifles.  At  the  head  of  the  list  was  my  friend  Tracy. 
Nothing  could  induce  him  to  go  to  town ;  he  had  as  great  an 
•^  aversion  to  civilization  as  his  friend  Jim.  He  had  lefb  his  home 
when  a  boy,  and  was  probably  never  heard  of  by  his  parents  ; 
the  connection  was  entirely  severed,  and  he  looked  upon  his 
rifle  as  his  only  true  friend  and  reliance. 

Having  sold  out  my  stock,  Mr.  Fairchild,  Mr.  Jones,  and 
myself  had  resolved  to  start  on  the  17th  of  November  for  San 
Francisco,  Mr.  F.  and  myself  destined  for  home.  The  only 
preparation  necessary  was  to  distribute  our  surplus  effects  among 
our  friends ;  at  this  particular  time  it  afforded  more  pleasure  to 
give  than  to  receive.  Nothing  was  movable,  hardly  ourselves  ; 
the  earth  had  become  so  thoroughly  saturated,  we  would  either 
of  us  have  been  loth  to  accept  a  new  suit  of  clothes,  ragged  as 
we  were.  We  each  reserved  a  pair  of  pantaloons,  a  flannel 
shirt,  glazed  cap,  and  stogy  boots.  These,  in  connection  with 
our  blankets,  constituted  our  outfits.  Our  firearms  we  found  it 
difficult  to  dispose  of;  they  were  entirely  useless,  and  our  friends 
accepted  them  merely  as  an  act  of  courtesy.  My  revolver,  I 
had  carried  across  the  Isthmus,  and  kept  during  my  stay  in 
California,  and  when  I  disposed  of  it,  it  had  not  had  the  honor 
of  being  charged. 

On  the  morning  of  the  17th  my  successor  took  possession  of 
the  store,  and  we  were  preparing  to  start,  the  rain  pouring 
down  a  deluge.  Our  friends  had  all  collected  to  bid  us  fare- 
well, and  to  give  into  our  charge  letters  to  their  friends.  It 
was  a  gloomy  morning,  and  a  feeling  of  sadness  appeared  to 
steal  over  the  minds  of  those  we  were  about  to  leave.  Having 
contracted  with  a  gentleman  who  was  to  leave  two  days  after, 
to  deliver  a  package  for  me  at  Sacramento  City,  we  filled  our 
bottles  with  "  Monongahela,"  and  putting  a  certain  quantity 
where  the  effects  would  be  more  immediately  felt,  bade  farewell 
to  all,  and  started  up  the  mountain.  We  were  soon  hailed  by 
Tracy  and  Dean,  who  were  not  yet  reconciled  to  parting  with 
us,  and  who  accompanied  us  a  mile  to  t^e  top  of  the  mountain. 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE  HALF-WAY  TENT.  127 

We  tere  came  to  a  halt,  and  took  the  hands  of  onr  friends  for 
the  last  time.  We  were  all  most  sensibly  affected,  and  although 
we  had  become  inured  to  hardships  and  privations  of  every 
description,  we  could  not,  on  this  occasion,  restrain  our  tears. 

It  was  about  2  P.  m.  when  we  resumed  our  journey,  and  we 
had  resolved  to  walk  to  the  "  half-way  tent,"  twenty-two  miles 
distant.  We  were  obliged  to  wade  through  mud  to  the  tops  of 
our  boots,  and  on  one  occasion  Jones  sunk  so  deeply  into  the 
mud  that  we  were  obliged  to  pry  him  out.  The  first  two  miles 
found  us  much  fatigued,  and  we  were  obliged  to  consult  our 
bottles  for  relief;  the  next  two  found  us  running  under  a  full 
head  of  steam,  our  walking  beams  in  the  finest  working  order. 
There  was  an  evident  disposition  to  try  our  relative  speed,  and 
the  probability  is  that  we  never  attained  a  higher  rate  than  on 
this  particular  occasion.  We  did  not  meet  any  one  on  the  road, 
but  we  met  a  number  of  trees,  and  although  entire  strangers, 
we  made  ourselves  as  familiar  as  though  we  had  been  acquaint- 
ed with  them  for  years ;  I  hope  they  do  not  remember  what 
we  said  to  them.  We  thought  Fairchild  made  too  much  lee- 
v,ray  ;  Jones  had  so  much  freight  on  deck  that  he  rolled  about 
tremendously ;  I  found  it  difficult  to  keep  on  an  even  keel,  and 
was  so  heavily  laden  forward,  that  it  was  almost  impossible  to 
support  the  "  figure-head."  We  all,  however,  made  good  time, 
considering  the  depth  of  water  we  drew.  Sunset  (it  did  not 
rise  that  day)  found  half  our  journey  performed,  and  three- 
fourths  of  our  fuel  consumed  ;  we  did  not  let  the  engines  stop, 
but  steamed  on,  the  paddles  frequently  throwing  mud  into  the 
faces  of  the  passengers.  About  9  P.  M.,  one  of  the  vessels  was 
noticed  to  careen,  but  it  righted,  and  we  kept  on  until  half-past 
ten,  when  we  arrived  at  the  half-way  tent. 

If  I  was  ever  glad  to  put  into  port,  it  was  at  this  time,  and 
we  certainly  put  in  in  "stress  of  weather."  We  found  the  tent 
full,  and  when  we  called  for  supper  were  told  that  there  was 
nothing  to  eat,  except  a  piece  of  salt  beef  which  was  in  the  bar- 
rel. We  ordered  this  cooked,  and  made  a  supper  of  brandy  and 
beef  We  now  looked  about  for  a  place  to  sleep,  but  were 
obliged  to  spread  our  blankets  on  the  wet  ground.  If  I  ever  felt 
the  necessity  of  a  place  on  the  dry  dock,  it  was  at  this  time; 
our  clothes  were  wet  with  rain  and  perspiration,  and  now  we 


128  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

were  cold  and  stiff,  and  the  thought  of  laying  down  for  the  night 
in  the  mud,  was  dreadful.  There  was  no  alternative,  and  we 
submitted  with  the  best  possible  grace. 

The  "tent"  was  kept  by  Mr.  Wilkin  (or  Wilky,)  assisted  by 
his  amiable  lady.  They  were  from  Scotland,  having  been  in 
the  United  States  about  seven  years,  most  of  which  time  they 
had  lived  in  their  wagon  or  a  tent ;  part  of  the  time  they  had 
lived  on  the  extreme  frontier  of  Missouri,  after  which  they 
crossed  over  to  Salt  Lake,  then  into  Oregon,  and  finally  down 
to  California.  They  had  spent  the  summer  in  the  mines,  and 
after  the  commencement  of  the  rainy  season  had  started  for 
Sacramento  City  with  a  six-mule  team.  After  much  toil  they 
reached  this  point  when  two  of  the  mules  were  "mired,"  the 
others  strayed,  leaving  them  no  alternative  but  to  remain  for 
the  winter.  They  constructed  temporary  accommodations  for 
travelers,  and  since  my  return  to  New  York  I  met  them  at  the 
Irving  House,  and  was  happy  to  learn  that  they  were  most 
bountifully  rewarded  for  their  detention.  We  rose  the  next 
morning,  had  our  bottles  refilled,  and,  as  we  had  no  particular 
appetite  for  salt  beef,  we  resolved  to  walk  ten  miles  to  breakfast. 
Our  motive  powers  had  rusted  during  the  night,  and  we  found 
it  almost  impossible  to  move,  but  our  bottle,  like  quack  medi- 
cines of  the  present  day,  was  a  universal  panacea ;  we  appHed 
it  in  this  case  with  success.  We  were  soon  making  as  good 
time  as  on  the  previous  day,  but  it  was  soon  apparent  that  Jones 
must  either  bend  on  "studding-sails,"  or  fall  behind;  he  chose 
the  latter  alternative,  and  before  9  o'clock,  A.  M.,  he  was  "hull 
down."  We  arrived  at  the  "blue  tent"  at  10,  A.  ir.,  and  order- 
ed breakfast,  but  we  had  the  consolation  of  learning  from  the 
worthy  host  that  he  had  nothing  to  eat.  This  was  just  what  we 
had  had  for  supper  the  previous  night,  and  informed  him  that 
we  wished  something  a  little  better  for  breakfast.  He  had  flour, 
which  was  full  of  worms,  and  we  had  warm  biscuit  for  breakfast. 

We  were  again  under  way,  and  soon  came  out  upon  an  open 
plain  which  extended  to  the  American  Eiver,  fifteen  miles  dis- 
tant. This  plain,  although  quite  elevated,  was  covered  with 
"lagoons,"  or  small  lakes,  all  swarming  with  wild  geese,  ducks 
and  brant.  A  finer  opportunity  for  a  sportsman  could  not  well 
be  imagined,  but  to  us  the  lakes  afforded  but  little  amusement; 


^^p 


V^;^ 


AKRIVAL  AT  SACRAMENTO   CITY.  129 

some  of  them  we  could  go  around,  others  we  were  compelled  to 
wade  through.  The  entire  plain  was  dotted  with  covered  wagons 
that  had  been  loaded  with  provisions  for  the  interior,  but,  in 
trying  to  cross,  the  teams  had  "mired"  and  the  wagons  been 
abandoned. 

On  arriving  within  sight  of  the  ferry,  we  came  to  the  margin  of  a 
lagoon  that  stretched  away  to  the  river,  leaving  us  no  alternative 
but  to  wade ;  the  practicability  of  this  could  only  be  learned  by 
sounding.  This  was  not  a  time  for  deliberation,  and  taking  my 
blankets,  &c.,  on  my  shoulder,  I  waded  in ;  after  wading  to  my 
neck  it  grew  more  shallow,  and  my  companion  followed.  We 
reached  the  ferry  boat  and  were  soon  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river. 

We  were  now  within  sight  of  Sacramento  City,  and  as  it  was 
Sunday  our  first  attention  was  bestowed  upon  our  toilet.  We 
sat  down  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  pulled  off  our  boots,  poured 
the  water  out  of  them,  wrung  out  our  socks,  and  after  replacing 
these  we  took  off  our  caps,  brushed  up  our  hair,  imagined  that 
our  moustache  curled,  (we  could  not  tell,  for  the  river  was  too 
muddy  to  reflect  our  faces,)  adjusted  the  skirt  of  our  flannel, 
then  throwing  our  chest  out,  with  our  head  at  an  angle  of  about 
23^,  we  stood  in  for  the  city,  passing  in  at  the  head  of  J.  street, 
which  we  found  in  fine  navigable  order,  the  water  extending  to 
the  door-sills  on  either  side. 


Ctjapttr  €iiitiitt|-0trnn& 


A  DET  SUIT— KESTAUBAyTS— WAITERS  AST)  CHAMPAGNT;— TTVO  rSDIVIDUALS  "  TIGHT  "— 
A  $10  DDfXER— MOXTE-BAXKS  AKD  MUD — GAMBLING  ANT)  ITS  RESULTS — GROWTH  OF  SA- 
.CRAiEEXTO  CITY — UNPARALLELED  PROSPERITY — A  REVULSION  AND  ITS  CAUSE — THB 
FLOOD. 

Our  first  want  was  a  drj  suit,  consequently  we  were  on  the 
qui  Vive  for  a  clothing  establishment;  the  first  store  we  came 
to  was  unfinished,  the  front  being  hung  with  blue  jean.  This 
we  pulled  aside,  and  found,  not  only  clothing,  but  an  old  ac- 
quaintance. I  was  soon  in  my  dishabille,  and  as  soon  in  full 
dress.  We  now  feel  comfortable  ;  but  near  by  is  a  restaurant, 
where  they  serve  up  beef  and  venison  steak,  chickens  and 
turkeys,  with  coffee,  tea,  and  champagne,  &c.,  &c.  Do  not  be 
impatient,  dear  reader,  for  only  think  what  we  had  at  our  last 
supper  and  breakfast.  We  soon  found  ourselves  seated  at  a 
table  at  the  Empire,  surrounded  by  three  waiters,  and  I  never 
saw  waiters  before  that  bore  such  a  strong^  resemblance  to 
guardian  angels.  I  could  hardly  tell  the  difierence.  One  hour 
after,  we  were  in  the  same  position.  We  were  refi'eshed ;  our 
waiters  were  jaded ;  our  chaii-pagne  bottles  were  standing 
before  us,  with  their  mouths  wide  open  ;  we  were  sitting  down 
with  ours  in  the  same  condition.  My  companion  would  look 
at  me  and  give  a  knowing  wink.  I  would  wink  knowingly  at 
him.  Then  we  would  both  laugh.  We  would  fill  our  glasses 
and  w4nk  and  laugh  again.  We  were  at  this  particular  time 
rich  and  happy.  We  had  money  in  our  pockets,  and  felt  that 
community  were  largely  indebted  to  us.  When  we  were  in- 
formed at  the  bar  that  our  bills  were  $10  each,  we  were  sur- 
prised at  the  extreme  moderation  of  our  host. 

We  now  sallied  forth  into  the  street,  and  spent  the  afternoon 
and  evening  in  the  most  jovial  manner,  going  the  rounds  of  the 


SACRAMENTO   CITY.  .  131 

gambling  houses,  theatres,  &c.  The  gambling  and  eating-houses 
were  thronged,  and  appeared  to  be  doing  all  the  business  of  the 
town.  Monte-hanks  were  even  opened  under  tents,  the  patrons 
standing  up  to  their  knees  in  mud.  The  Eound  Tent  contained 
eight  tables,  each  letting  for  eight  dollars  per  day.  These,  to- 
gether with  the  profits  of  the  bar,  paid  Mr.  Weeks,  the  pro- 
prietor, at  least  $100  per  day — a  fair  income  for  a  tent,  particu- 
larly one  in  which  a  man  needs  an  iimbrella  and  a  pair  of  India 
rubber  boots.  The  rain  did  not  dampen  the  ardor  of  the  opera- 
tors, but  caused  them  to  treat  more  frequently,  which  gave  them 
more  ready  access  to  their  victims. 

Here  were  gray -haired  men  commingling  with  boys  in  the 
game — profanity  and  dissipation — some  of  them  having  passed, 
perhaps,  within  the  last  twenty-four  hours,  from  a  competence 
to  penury.  A  gloom  seemed  to  pervade  the  countenance,  re- 
vealing the  reckless  despondence  that  reigned  within. 

How  truthfully  were  their  feelings  portrayed  in  the  gloom  of 
the  sarrounding  elements.  Here  were  young  men,  who,  a  few 
months  previous,  had  left  their  friends  and  homes  with  vigorous 
constitutions,  and  characters  unblemished,  to  seek  their  fortunes 
in  this  land  of  gold.  A  few  short  months  had  sufficed  to 
accomplish  the  work  of  ruin.  In  an  unguarded  moment  they 
were  tempted  from  the  path  of  rectitude ;  they  visited  the  gam- 
ing-tables and  halls  of  dissipation ;  and  when  the  brief  dream 
was  over,  they  awoke  and  found  ruin,  like  a  demon,  staring 
them  in  the  face.  They  had  neither  means  nor  character,  and 
their  constitutions  had  been  laid  waste  by  the  blighting  hand 
of  dissipation.  Who  can  calculate  the  hours  of  anguish,  or  tears 
of  blood  that  have  been  wrung  from  the  hearts  of  bereaved 
parents  and  friends  by  that  blighting  curse.         , 

Sacramento  had  become  a  large  city  (see  Plate),  and,  next  to 
San  Francisco,  the  most  important  town  in  the  State.  It  num- 
bered at  this  time  from  twelve  to  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants. 
The  town  is  regularly  laid  out,  the  streets  running  at  right 
angles,  many  of  which  are  closely  built  upon  for  the  distance 
of  a  mile.  The  margin  of  the  river  is  bold,  and  vessels  of  the 
largest  class  are  moored  to  its  banks.  Some  of  them  are  used 
as  stores,  others  as  dwelling  or  boarding  places.  The  steamer 
Senator  runs  up  to  the  bank  and  puts  out  a  gang-plank,  which 


132  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

is  all  that  is  necessary  for  tlie  accommodation  of  passengers 
Tlie  town  at  the  time  was  submerged  in  mud,  the  streets  almost 
impassable.  Flour,  pork,  bread,  &;c.,  were  piled  up  along  the 
sides  of  the  streets  without  protection.  There  were  many  sur- 
mises as  to  the  probability  of  the  city  being  flooded  in  case  of 
freshet.  It  was  said  b}^  the  "oldest  inhabitant"  that  the  sur- 
rounding country,  including  the  site  of  the  town,  had  been 
flooded,  so  that  canoes  had  been  navigated  as  far  as  Sutter's 
Fort.  Indications  went  to  confirm  his  statement.  There  are 
gulhes  running  through  the  town  that  have  undoubtedly  been 
caused  by  floods,  and  in  the  sequel,  proved  channels  too  small 
to  relieve  the  city  from  inundation. 

Many  kinds  of  goods  had  become  extremely  scarce,  and  were 
selling  at  exorbitant  prices.  This  was  the  case  with  woollen 
clothing,  boots,  and  provisions.  Common  flannel  shirts  were 
selling  at  from  $5  to  $8  each ;  blankets  at  from  $12  to  $20  per 
pair ;  and  ordinary  boots  from  $20  to  $32.  Long  boots  of 
grained  leather  were  held  at,  and  selling  for  6  ozs.  ($96.)  The 
interior,  or  mining  regions,  were  entirely  destitute,  and  mer- 
chants were  in  town  from  every  point,  trying  to  contract  for 
the  transportation  of  goods.  Teamsters  knew  the  country  to 
be  impassable,  and  although  as  high  as  $50,  and  even  $100  per 
100  lbs.  was  offered  for  a  distance  of  fifty  miles,  no  one  would 
make  the  attempt.  The  consequence  was,  that  miners  were 
driven  into  town  in  many  cases,  to  prevent  starvation.  Trade, 
during  the  latter  part  of  the  summer,  and  for  the  first  one  or 
two  weeks  of  the  rainy  season,  had  been  remarkably  brisk  in 
Sacramento  City.  The  advance  in  prices  of  all  the  staple 
articles  had  enabled  merchants  to  reap  immense  profits,  and 
many,  within  a  few  weeks,  had  made  fortunes. 

The  impetus  to  trade  had  come  upon  them  unawares ;  some 
had  leased  their  stores  for  short  terms ;  others  merely  kept  pos- 
session from  day  to  day ;  but  when  this  season  of  prosperity 
burst  upon  them,  all  were  anxious  to  secure  leases  for  the  longest 
possible  period.  Thousands  were  eager  to  embark  in  trade, 
offering  unparalleled  rents — in  many  cases  as  high  as  $100  per 
day  for  a  store.  Long  leases  were  granted  at  these  exorbitant 
rents,  and  in  consequence  of  the  scarcity  of  tenements,  lots  were 
purchased — the  prices  predicated  upon  the  above — buildings 


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A  EEVULSION  AND  ITS  CAUSE.  183 

erected  and  immediately  occupied.  A  season  of  prosperity  had 
been  experienced  without  a  parallel.  Men  were  not  confined 
in  their  operations  to  their  legitimate  business,  but  would  in- 
vest in  anything  that  presented  itself,  and  everything  had  been 
turned  to  advantage.  But  as  soon  as  the  rainy  season  cut  off 
communication  with  the  interior,  a  depression  was  felt,  and  soon 
an  entire  stagnation  in  all  departments  of  business.  This  was 
not  a  time  when  the  current  of  business  could  be  safely  checked ; 
people  had  been  borne  to  their  present  positions  by  one  of  the 
most  buoyant  seas ;  and  should  this  pass  from  beneath  them, 
the  other  extreme  must  as  inevitably  follow  as  the  ebb  follows 
the  flood.  This  extreme  was  soon  reached.  Men  found  them- 
selves with  heavy  stocks  on  hand  that  would  not  command  one- 
half  their  cost.  City  lots  that  had  cost  them  thousands,  would 
not  now  command  as  many  hundreds.  Many  found  it  impossi- 
ble to  pay  their  enormous  rents,  even  with  their  gross  amount 
of  sales.  A  crash  was  inevitable,  and  it  came ;  and  all  were 
buried  beneath  the  ruins  of  their  own  structures.  The  elements 
seemed  destined  to  complete  the  devastation,  and  on  the  10th 
of  December  the  city  was  inundated,  the  deluge  running  riot 
through  the  streets,  carrying  houses  from  their  foundations,  and 
causing  the  inhabitants  to  flee  to  the  shipping  for  safety. 


Cjjnptn  €mBnti|-tjfirii. 


SAIL  FOR  SAN  FRAKCISCO— A  FLEET— MTD— PROSPERITY— SHIPS  AXD  STOREHOUSES- 
BUOYANT  SEAS — SHOALS  IN  BUSINESS — RETULSION  AND  FIRE — THEIR  CONSEQUENCES — 
SAIL  FOR  SANTA  BARBARA — THE  TOWN — DEXTEROUS  FEAT  BY  A  GRIZZLY  BEAR — FASH- 
IONS— SAIL  FOR  ST.  LUCAS — PORPOISES  AND  SEA  FOWLS,  THEIR  SPORTS — APPROACH  THE 
TOWN— PECULIAR  SKY — CAVERNS  IN  THE  SEA— CACTUS — BEAUTIFUL  SEA  SHELLS — SAIL 
FOR  ACAPULCO— MAGNIFICENT  SCENERY— VOLCANOS  AND  CASCADES— TOLCAN03  AT 
KIGHT — ETERNAL   SNOW. 

Ox  the  22 d  Xovember  we  procured  tickets  on  tlie  steamboat 
*'  Senator,"  at  $30  each,  and  at  8  a.:m:.,  were  under  way  for  San 
Francisco.  'We  passed  along  down  at  North  Eiver  speed,  arriv- 
ing at  0  p.:m:.  As  we  passed  through  the  bay,  we  were  struck 
with  the  vast  amount  of  shipping,  numbering  no  less  than  five 
hundred  sail — a  fleet  which,  in  tonnage  and  number  of  sail, 
was  never  before  equalled.  (See  Plate.)  The  city  had  also  made 
gigantic  strides.  The  sa'nd-hills  had  been  leveled,  and  the  city 
had,  as  it  were,  in  a  day,  taken  the  whole  of  the  surround- 
ing country  under  its  wings.  Here,  however,  as  in  Sacramento 
City,  the  streets  were  most  bountifull}-  supplied  with  mud,  re- 
quiring, in  some  cases,  most  dexterous  movements  to  keep  above 
ground. 

Xothing  had  occurred,  up  to  this  time,  to  check  the  tide  of 
prosperity,  which  had  borne  the  citizens  on,  to  the  very  acme 
of  their  ambition.  Every  one  in  trade  had  realized  fortunes, 
and  were  still  bountifully  supplied  with  goods,  some  having 
large  invoices  piled  outside  for  want  of  room  within.  Still  all 
were  ambitious  to  add  to  their  stock,  and  were  hiring  money  at  ten 
per  cent,  a  month  to  invest  in  provisions,  boots,  and  winter  cloth- 
ing, all  of  which  were  commanding  exorbitant  prices.  Chihan 
flour,  in  two  hundred  pound  sacks,  was  purchased  by  the  quan- 
tity at  $40  per  sack,  in  anticipation  of  a  scarcity  ;  other  provis- 
ions at  prices  predicated  upon  the  above.     Eents  were  extrava- 


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BUOYANT  SEAS  AND  SHOALS  IN  BUSINESS.  135 

gantlj  liigli,  and  real  estate  commanding  unheard-of  prices. 
Many  magnificent  buildings  had  been  erected  for  banking-houses, 
hotels,  and  gambling  saloons,  all  occupied — their  tenants  reap- 
ing daily  fortunes  ;  gamblers  seemed  to  be  on  the  very  top  wave 
of  prosperity,  and  they  were  about  the  only  class  of  citizens 
who  confined  themselves  strictly  to  their  legitimate  business. 
Their  saloons  were  swarming  with  people,  who  seemed  to 
patronize  them  for  want  of  other  amusement. 

The  scarcity  of  facilities  for  storing  goods,  had  induced  par- 
ties to  purchase  ships,  which  after  cutting  away  the  spars,  they 
would  head  in  shore,  run  aground,  and  scuttle  ;  then  connecting 
them  to  the  shore  by  piers,  and  building  a  story  on  the  upper 
deck,  they  were  ready  for  occupation,  being  less  exposed  in 
case  of  fire,  and  more  easy  of  access,  than  buildings  on  shore. 
The  Niantic  and  Apollo,  ships  well  known  in  this  latitude, 
were  thus  converted,  but  have  since,  together  with  the  city,  been 
converted  into  ashes.  The  water-lots  belonging  to  the  city  were 
sold  at  auction,  and  purchased  by  parties,  who  immediately 
commenced  extensive  docks,  and  were  soon  in  a  condition  to 
invite  vessels  along  side.  Improvements  were  commenced,  and 
matured  as  if  by  magic  and  no  cloud  was  discernible  in  the 
business  horizon,  to  dampen  the  ardor  or  cause  the  business 
man  to  look  out  for  a  cross  sea.  No  one  was  fearful  of  shoals, 
as  none  were  laid  down  in  their  charts ;  all  forgetting,  that,  no 
matter  how  buoyant  a  sea,  it  always  finds  a  shoal  upon  which 
to  break. 

Business  was  transacted  on  a  gigantic  scale,  and  with  an  in- 
domitable energy,  but  with  a  recklessness  unparalleled.  It  must 
have  been  apparent  to  every  one  who  looked  upon  these  trans- 
actions with  an  eye  of  experience,  that  the  least  check  to  ruling 
prices  must  cause  a  revulsion  that  would  prostrate  the  entire 
commercial  interest  of  the  country.  Being  entirely  dependent 
upon  the  Atlantic  cities  for  supplies,  the  market  was  liable  to 
be  overstocked  at  any  moment;  but  business  men  did  not  seem 
to  take  this  into  consideration,  but  operated  as  if  an  embargo 
had  been  laid  upon  all  shipments,  and  they  were  about  to  secure 
all  the  supplies  that  were  ever  to  reach  the  shores  of  California. 
This  was  the  foundation  upon  which  business  transactions  were 
predicated,  and,  to  finish  the  structure,  money  was  hired  at  from 


186  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

ten  to  twelve  per  cent,  a  month,  and  invested.  A  revulsion 
was  inevitable,  and  wlien  it  came  it  was  accompanied  bj  a  con- 
flagration that  devastated  the  entire  cit j.  Business  was  paralyzed, 
and  firms  that  had  been  thought  to  be  worth  millions,  were  not 
only  penniless,  but  with  hea\^  debts  hanging  upon  them  from 
which  there  was  no  prospect  of  relief.  All  found  themselves 
overwhelmed  with  liabilities,  and  with  a  very  few  exceptions, 
none  could  even  make  a  fractional  dividend  in  favor  of  their 
creditors.  One  of  the  most  extensive  firms  in  the  city,  a  firm 
that  within  two  short  weeks  had  considered  themselves  worth  five 
millions,  now  found  themselves  indebted  to  almost  that  amount, 
without  a  dollar  in  hand,  and  nothing  in  prospect  by  which  they 
could  even  expect  to  make  a  comfortable  living.  The  partner 
who  established  the  firm,  became  a  citizen  before  the  gold  ex- 
citement. He  was  in  the  prime  of  life,  universally  beloved  for 
his  courteous  and  gentlemanly  bearing,  and  one  of  those  chival- 
rous spirits  who  never  turn  their  backs  upon  a  friend  or  foe. 
He  was  a  terror  to  the  ''hounds,"  and  other  organizations  of 
villainy,  in  San  Francisco,  and  was  the  most  effectual  instru- 
ment in  organizing  the  self-constituted  police;  this  reverse  of 
fortune,  however,  together  with  the  loss  of  an  accomplished  and 
beloved  wife,  so  preyed  upon  his  spirits  that  he  made  an  attempt 
upon  his  own  life. 

Miners  were  returning  to  town  by  scores,  driven  in  by  the 
scarcity  of  provisions,  owing  to  the  impassable  condition  of  the 
country,  and  merchants  of  the  interior  were  driven  from  their 
posts  by  the  same  cause.  All  could  not  get  employment  in 
town,  and  but  few  were  able  to  remain  in  idleness;  the  conse- 
quence was  that  many  sailed  for  the  Sandwich  and  other  Pacific 
islands  in  search  of  labor,  or  in  hopes  of  finding  a  less  expensive 
place  to  spend  the  winter.  Others  were  preparing  to  return 
home.  These  causes,  too^ether  ^vith  the  arrival  of  larsfe  con- 
signments  of  provisions,  were  soon  most  sensibly  felt.  Flour 
was  offering  in  the  market  at  $25  per  sack ;  many  having  heavy 
stocks  on  hand  for  which  they  had  paid  $10,  and  with  money 
for  which  they  were  then  paying  ten  per  cent,  a  month.  Every 
steamer  from  the  interior,  as  well  as  those  clearing  from  the 
port,  were  crowded,  and  passage  tickets  selling  at  a  premium. 
Every  house  in  town  was  full;  comfortable  accommodations 


DEXTEROUS  FEAT  OF  A  GRIZZLY  BEAR.  137 

were  out  of  the  question.     The  lodging  apartments  were  gen 
erally  fitted  up  like  state-rooms  on  a  ship,  with  two  berths,  i.  e. 
a  little  pen  or  box  with  two  shelves,  for  each  of  which  shelf, 
with  board,  the  charge  was  $25  per  week,  occupant  permitted 
to  furnish  his  own  bedding. 

Dear  reader,  having  a  pressing  business  engagement  at  San 
Juan  de  Nicaragua,  I  will  presume  upon  your  leisure  so  far  as 
to  ask  you  to  accompany  me.  I  will  give  you  a  free  passage, 
and  return  with  you  in  thirty  days,  claiming  your  indulgence 
for  the  want  of  interest  in  the  trip.  You  undoubtedly  remem- 
ber the  excitement  attending  your  advent  on  board  the  steamer, 
your  last  trip  to  sea — mine  was  similar.  At  12  o'clock,  M.,  we 
had  the  "heave  ahead  I"  clanking  of  the  cable,  firing  of  cannon, 
and  at  half-past  12  passed  through  the  "  Golden  Gate."  Now 
our  steamer  makes  her  obeisance  to  Neptune,  who  steps  aside 
to  let  her  pass.  On  leaving  the  outer  bay,  we  put  our  wheel 
''hard  down,"  and  stood  away  to  the  south,  the  coast  range, 
as  well  as  the  Sierra  Nevada,  seeming  in  tears  at  our  departure. 
We  steam  along,  now  raising  a  peak  of  the  mountain,  and  now 
sinking  it  below  the  horizon,  until  the  second  day,  when  we  stand 
in  toward  shore,  and  soon  arrive  in  full  view  of  Santa  Barbara, 
presenting  a  fertile  plain  near  the  coast,  with  mountains  in  the 
background. 

This  is  the  point  at  which  Col.  Stevenson's  regiment  was  dis- 
banded. It  is  a  small  town  hardly  deserving  the  name,  and  has 
acquired  its  name  and  importance  from  its  mission,  the  mission- 
house  being  a  building  of  great  capacity,  containing  a  collec- 
tion of  valuable  paintings.  The  front  makes  some  pretensions 
to  architectural  beauty,  with  two  towers,  each  containing  two 
bells ;  between  the  towers,  is  a  representation  of  the  sun,  the  disc 
being  the  dial  of  a  clock.  (See  Plate.)  There  is  a  fountain  near 
the  church,  the  water  being  brought  from  the  mountain  in  a 
trench,  and  thrown  from  the  mouths  of  grizzly  bears.  Why  the 
grizzly  bear  was  chosen  by  the  worthy  "Padre"  to  do  the  orna- 
mental part,  I  was  unable  to  learn,  perhaps  owing  to  feats  of  , 
dexterity  performed  by  his  hearship  on  certain  occasions. 

At  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the  California  regiment,  one  of 
the  Bruin  family  had  taken  up  his  residence  on  a  rancho^  not 
far  distant.     The  natives,  wishing  to  exhibit  their  dexterity, 


'ii'Sk^'ii 


138  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

ofifered  to  go  and  lasso  Bruin,  for  their  amusement.  !N"ow, 
said  Bruin  had  been  a  quiet  neighbor,  and  had  taken  nothing 
excepting  the  appurtenances  of  said  ranchoj  and  had  a  most  re- 
ligious aversion  to  any  additional  ties  between  himself  and 
neighbors.  When  said  neighbors  approached  and  attempted  to 
present  the  subject,  Bruin,  as  dignified  people  will  do,  stood  up 
and  looked  them  in  the  face.  Six  lassos  were  simultaneously 
thrown.  He  caught  three  of  them,  and,  hand  over  hand,  hauled 
the  horses  in,  and  with  one  stroke  took  off  from  one  of  them  his 
entire  haunch.  The  rider's  cut  their  lassos,  and,  without  bid- 
ding his  bearship  good-day,  took  the  longest  kind  of  steps  to- 
w^ard  the  mission-house.  Bruin  is  now  supposed  to  be  in  his 
dotage,  still  he  is  said  to  relate  this  occurrence  to  his  family 
circle  with  the  greatest  satisfaction. 

Those  interested  in  the  prevailing  fashions,  are  referred  to 
the  accompanying  Plate.  Ladies'  hats  are  dispensed  with;  a 
scarf  or  parasol  is  used  instead.  Gentlemen  wear  white  pants, 
over  which  is  a  pair  of  black  velvet,  open  at  the  sides  of  the 
leg,  the  edges  trimmed  with  bell-buttons.  A  short  jacket  of 
the  same  is  also  worn,  trimmed  with  bell-buttons  over  which 
is  thrown  a  serapa  ot poncho.  A, heavy  sombrero^  with  a  black 
glazed  covering,  is  worn  on  the  head ;  this  is  trimmed  with  brass 
ornaments,  and  a  band  with  long  ties  serving  as  a  streamer. 
In  passing  down  from  Santa  Barbara  the  scenery  is  fine ;  a  belt 
of  fertile  land  stretching  along  the  coast  with  mountains  in  the 
back  ground. 

After  taking  on  board  several  passengers,  a  few  head  of  cat- 
tle, and  a  small  supply  of  vegetables,  we  again  weigh  anchor 
and  stand  out  to  sea ;  the  weather  is  delightful,  the  sea  rolls 
sluggishly,  and  our  steamer  speeds  her  way  through  the  waters 
like  a  thing  of  life ;  now  rushing  through  a  school  of  porpoises, 
and  now  a  school  of  flying-fish  are  driven  from  their  element ; 
now  a  whale  throws  a  column  of  spray  into  the  air;  the  sea- 
gulls collect  around  but  soon  disperse  and  flit  along  ^' gaily  over 
the  sea ;"  the  albatrosses  are  floating  about  lazily ;  while  Mother 
Carey's  chickens  display  as  much  spirit  as  if  the  old  lady  had 
just  let  them  from  the  coop. 

As  we  approached  St.  Lucas  we  noticed  that  peculiarity  of 
the  sky  for  which  the  Pacific  coast  is  celebrated.     (See  Plate.) 


ST.   LUCAS   AND  THE   GULF   OF   CALIFORNIA.  139 

The  sun  throws  a  ray  of  liglit  through  the  mottled  sky ;  the 
sea  rolls  sluggishly ;  porpoises  are  sporting  about,  now  throwing 
themselves  into  the  air,  and  now  rushing  into  schools  of  flying- 
fish  which  are  frightened  from  their  element  and  pursued  by 
the  albatross.  As  we  approach  still  nearer,  immense  rocks 
to^.er  up  from  the  margin  of  the  ocean,  some  rising  to  the 
height  of  one  hundred  feet,  some  being  columns  of  granite,  pre- 
senting an  appearance  as  uniform  as  if  cut  by  the  hand  of  man. 
(See  Plate.)  Here  are  seen  huge  rocks  with  arches  worn  through 
at  the  base  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  sufficiently  large  to  admit 
large  row  boats.  The  billows  come  dashing  and  thundering 
into  these  caverns,  then  recoil,  chafing  and  foaming  with  the 
most  terrific  fury. 

Here  the  sea  rolls  high,  but  with  such  uniformity  that  when 
breaking  upon  the  shore  the  air  is  caught  underneath,  which 
bursting  through  throws  u.p  columns  of  spray.  Three  coyotaSj 
members  of  the  California  Harmonic  Society,  are  seen  on  the 
beach ;  they  appear  to  be  at  rehearsal.  Along  the  shore  are 
huge  cacti,  growing  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet,  being  sufficiently 
large,  and  frequently  used  for  building  timber. 

St.  Lucas,  like  Santa  Barbara,  is  hardly  deserving  the  name 
of  a  town,  containing  but  thirteen  houses,  which  are  constructed 
of  adobes  and  cactus.  The  only  peculiarity  is  that  the  natives 
speak  the  English  Language.  The  surrounding  country  is  ex- 
tremely barren,  producing  but  just  enough  to  sustain  the  inhab- 
itants ;  vessels  touch  here  for  water,  which  is  superior,  and  beef, 
which  is  obtained  back  of  the  mountain.  This  town  is  situated 
at  the  outer  point  of  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of  California. 
The  time  is  probably  not  far  distant  when  the  river  Gila  will 
be  navigated  by  steam,  and  the  fertile  plains  bordering  on  its 
banks,  and  those  of  its  tributaries,  be  brought  into  subjection 
to  the  plow,  when  this  vast  empire  must  disgorge  its  un- 
bounded resources  through  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  dispense 
its  agricultural  and  mineral  wealth  to  all  parts  of  the  civilized 
world.  I  say  the  time  is  probably  not  far  distant ;  it  is  at  hand ; 
it  is  in  the  nature  of  things,  that  the  Gila  country  within  ten 
years  will  be  a  State  in  the  Union.  Then  St.  Lucas  may  become 
a  city,  and  many  others  of  great  commercial  importance  will 


140  CALIFORXIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

spring  up  along  tlie  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  California,  and  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Gila;  will  be  one  of  the  marts  of  the  Pacific. 

Our  next  point  is  Acapulco,  distant  about  six  hundred  miles ; 
this  part  of  the  route  presents  some  of  the  finest  scenery  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  and  perhaps  the  most  imposing  in  the  world.  It 
is  a  succession  of  volcanos,  including  Popocatapetl,  the  most 
elevated  volcano  in  Mexico ;  this  towers  up  through  masses  of 
clouds,  appearing  shrouded  in  gloom  at  its  base,  but  rears  its 
head  in  majestic  triumph,  offering  its  light  to  the  stars. 

Each  of  these  volcanos  presents  some  different  features ;  from 
the  craters  of  some  the  smoke  issues  with  as  much  regularity  as 
from  a  chimney ;  others  are  enveloped  in  smoke ;  some  seem  to 
have  almost  subdued  the  internal  fires ;  the  emission  of  smoke 
being  almost  imperceptible.  The  most  striking  phenomenon 
was  exhibited  by  one  of  great  elevation,  rearing  its  head  above 
the  surrounding  mountains,  at  some  distance  from  the  coast; 
it  would  belch  forth  a  cloud  of  smoke,  which  for  a  moment 
would  seem  a  huge  ball  suspended  over  the  crater ;  this  would 
soon  commence  to  assume  a  different  form,  the  lighter  parts  of 
the  smoke  ascending  and  expanding,  while  the  more  weighty 
would  settle — elongating  the  cloud — giving  it  the  appearance 
of  a  huge  pine  tree.  This  would  float  away  on  the  atmosphere, 
and  after  an  interval  of  half  an  hour,  would  be  followed  by  its 
successor.  The  regularity  of  these  manifestations  was  most 
astonishing ;  the  volcano  seemed  to  have  entered  into  a  contract 
with  the  atmosphere  to  furnish  it  with  a  cloud  every  half- hour. 

The  mountains  in  the  background  tower  up,  one  above 
another,  until  the  last  loses  itself  in  the  blue  of  heaven.  These 
seemed  undergoing  a  constant  change ;  now  a  cloud  throws  a 
deep  cavern-like  shade  here,  and  now  the  sun  chases  it  away, 
and  shows  us  a  vale  watered  by  a  mountain  stream  and  teeming 
mth  the  choicest  plants  of  nature ;  now  we  see  in  the  distant 
blue  what  appears  a  gigantic  marble  column ;  we  look  through 
a  glass  and  it  proves  a  cascade  breaking  from  the  crest  of  a 
mountain;  now  we  see  a  mountain  rearing  its  head  into  the 
very  clouds,  and  shrouded  in  eternal  snow,  this  reflecting  the 
rays  of  the  sun,  appears  the  dome  of  some  vast  structure.  Al- 
though volcanos  are  grand  and  impressive  by  day,  notliing 


,'.f 


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VOLCAJSrOJ  AT  NIGHT.  141 

will  compare  with  their  sublimity  at  night;  their  crests  are  sur- 
rounded by  a  halo  of  light,  the  smoke,  illumined,  crawls  slug- 
gishly out,  and  now  are  seen  issuing  balls  and  streams  of  liquid 
fire,  accompanied  by  a  most  terrific  shock,  as  if  the  furies  were 
at  war  within ;  now  a  dark  cloud  floats  sluggishly  along,  but 
now  it  is  looking  directly  into  the  crater,  and  is  burnished  by 
the  internal  fires. 


Cjicptn  Ctnfntif-fntirtli. 


ACAPULCO — THE  TREE  OF  LOVE — BATHING  AND  FEMALES — A  CALIFORXIAN  IN  A  TIGHT 
PLACE— EARTHQUAKES— SAIL  FOR  RE  ALE  JO— VOLCANO  VIEJO— ITS  DEVASTATING  ERUP- 
TION— REALEJO  AND  HARBOR — A  CART  AND  ITS  PASSENGERS — A  "WALL-STREET  FINAN- 
CIER FLEECED — CHINANDEGA — ITS  BEAUTIFUL  ARBORS — BATHING — PREPARING  TOR- 
TILLOS— LEON— ITS  MAGNIFICENCE   AND  DESOLATION— DON  PEDRO   VACA   AND  FAMILY. 

As  we  approach.  Acapiilco,  the  most  striking  feature  is  ttie 
telegraph,  which  is  erected  on  one  of  the  highest  peaks  of  the 
mountain,  and  from  which,  at  the  approach  of  a  steamer,  a  blue 
flag  is  displayed,  or  a  white  one  at  the  approach  of  a  sailing 
vessel.  The  town  is  completely  land-locked,  there  being  not 
the  slightest  indication  of  it  until  passing  around  the  bluff  into 
the  inner  bay,  when  the  castle  is  seen  directly  in  our  course,  and 
passing  on,  bearing  to  the  left,  the  town  is  seen  stretching  away 
up  the  side  of  the  mountain.  The  bay  has  the  appearance  of  a 
lake  being  entirely  shut  in  by  mountains.  Our  steamer  passed 
on  to  within  fifteen  or  twenty  rods  of  the  town  when  we  dropped 
anchor  and  were  immediately  boarded  by  the  officer  of  the  port, 
also  by  innumerable  men  and  boj^s  for  passengers,  and  females 
with  fruit.  Passengers  are  taken  into  bungoes,  or  canoes,  which 
are  headed  in  until  the  bow  strikes  the  shore,  when  they  take 
their  stand  preparatory  to  a  jump  as  the  sea  runs  back.  (See 
Plate.)  ISTot  unfrequently  they  are  overtaken  by  the  next  sea, 
which  is  extremely  embarrassing,  particularly  if  one  has  just 
changed  his  linen.  We  entered  the  town  at  the  foot  of  the 
main  street ;  two  churches  are  seen,  each  supporting  a  tower, 
the  custom-house  being  in  the  foreground  at  the  left.  The 
buildings  are  of  one  story,  constructed  of  stone  or  adobes^ 
and  covered  with  tile.  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully 
located  towns  on  the  Pacific  coast.     It  is  never  visited  by 


P- 


I  c 

£  O 

:■  -J 

^  < 

^^  < 


ACAPULCO.  143 

blighting  winds  but  is  shut  in  by  mountains,  watered  by  moun- 
tain rivulets,  and  supplied  with  all  the  tropical  fruits,  which 
grow  here  spontaneously,  and  in  the  greatest  abundance.  It 
reminds  one  of  the  "  happy  valley"  of  "  Kasselas."  Along  the 
margin  of  the  bay  are  trees  of  peculiar  shape  called  the  "  amata," 
or  tree  of  love,  the  form  of  the  top  resembling  an  umbrella, 
tinder  which  hammocks  are  slung — and  people  enjoy  their  sies- 
tas. (See  Plate).  The  castle  is  a  work  of  some  strength  mount- 
ing several  brass  pieces  of  heavy  calibre ;  it  is  however  much 
neglected,  being  garrisoned  only  by  a  few  barefooted  soldiers. 
Just  back  of  the  town  is  a  stream  of  the  purest  water  from 
springs  on  the  mountain  side ;  this  is  the  bathing  place  of  the 
inhabitants,  and  a  more  inviting  one  could  not  be  imagined ; 
the  stream  is  so  limpid,  and  of  such  a  congenial  temperature, 
that  one  feels  that  he  could  repose  in  its  bosom  forever.  In  tak- 
ing a  bath  it  was  difficult  to  rid  ourself  of  the  presence  of  a 
half  dozen  senoritas  who  would  come  to  the  bank,  towel  in  hand, 
offering  to  prepare  you  for  your  clothes,  for  the  moderate  sum 
of  sixpence.  They  were  all  beautiful,  but  I  preferred  seeing 
them  under  other  circumstances.  This  want  of  modesty,  as  it 
will  be  termed,  is  a  characteristic  of  Spanish  America,  and  al- 
though it  may  show  a  want  of  refined  delicacy  according  to  the 
frigid  laws  of  the  States,  they  are  entirely  unconscious  of  im- 
propriety. 

The  females  here  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty,  finely  de- 
veloped forms,  and  graceful  bearing,  as  well  as  for  their  vivacity 
and  winning  pathos  in  conversation.  They  possess  many  peer- 
less traits  of  character,  and  manifest  a  devoted  attachment  to 
their  parents  and  offspring.  The  full  dress  of  a  lady  consists 
of  a  white  chemise,  a  colored  skirt  flounced  at  the  bottom,  and 
a  scarf  which  serves  alternately  as  a  shawl  and  bonnet. 

The  market  is  well  supplied  with  every  variety  of  fruit  and 
cakes,  and  beef  by  the  yard.  The  stands  are  mostly  attended 
by  females.  The  first  salutation  upon  entering  the  market-place 
is  from  the  little  girls,  who  hail  you  with,  ''Say,  Americano! 
lemonade,  picayune?"  holding  up  to  you  a  plate  containing  a  glass 
of  lemonade,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  accompanying  Plate.  At 
the  left,  in  the  foreground,  is  seen  a  Senora  making  love  to  an 
hombre  who  looks  from  underneath  his  hu^e  sombrero,  and  seems 


144  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

to  hold  the  tighter,  his  lemon  basket  and  jng.  Then  there  is 
little  Nina  with  her  picayune-lemonade,  and  Mudiacho  with  his 
hat  on  his  head,  inverted,  and  filled  with  lemons.  He  was  re- 
quested to  stand  for  this  drawing,  and  looked  the  very  persona- 
tion of  a  corn-field  Q^gj.  Then  there  is  Senora^  the  second, 
standing  demurely,  supporting  on  her  head,  a  basket*  of  shells. 
Then  comes  one  of  the  "  immortal  garrison ;"  he  supports  a  high 
plume  and  long  cigar.  There  is  something  extremely  martial 
in  his  attitude,  although  he  appears  lame  in  one  foot.  Just  be- 
hind this  soldier,  is  a  group  of  three  ;  the  man  is  a  Californian; 
he  was  brought  ashore  by  the  boy,  but  does  not  seem  anxious  to 
pay  his  fare.  The  boy  has  his  hand  full  of  stones,  by  which  he 
designs  to  convince  the  man  that  he  had  better  pay.  During 
the  parley,  a  female  runs  out,  and  recognizing  the  man  as  hav- 
ing got  his  dinner  of  her  without  paying  for  it,  she  says,  "Ah  ! 
you  thought  I  wouldn't  know  you,  but  I  do  know  you."  This 
was  coming  too  thick  for  the  man,  and,  giving  a  kind  of  *'  b'hoy  " 
bend  of  the  knee,  he  runs  both  hands  into  his  pockets,  with  a 
"  well,  I  guess  if  I  owe  you  anything,  I  can  p-a-y."  The  range 
of  buildings  at  the  right  are  eating  and  drinking  saloons.  An 
officer  is  seen  galloping  across  the  plaza,  with  a  sentinel  at  the 
left.  Back  of  the  towji,  an  opening  is  cut  through  the  mountain, 
presenting  a  very  striking  appearance,  and  is  said  to  have  been 
done  by  the  Spaniards  to  give  the  town  a  circulation  of  air. 
Acapulco  contains  8,000  inhabitants,  many  of  whom  are  the  na- 
tive Indian  race.  It  is  somewhat  subject  to  earthquakes  there 
being  at  present  several  ruins  of  buildings,  including  ono  church, 
that  were  prostrated  a  few  years  since. 

In  passing  down  from  Acapulco  to  Realejo,  there  is  a  continu- 
ation of  the  same  magnificent  scenery,  and  as  you  near  the  har- 
bor, you  see  towering  up  from  the  Cordilleras,  Yiejo,  the  most 
elevated  volcano  in  Central  America.  (See  Plate.)  It  is  seen 
rearing  its  head  above  the  clouds,  and  belching  forth  a  column 
of  smoke.  This  volcano,  for  many  years,  ceased  to  burn  ;  but 
a  few  years  since,  the  whole  of  the  surrounding  country  became 
agitated ;  the  air  was  filled  for  several  da;ys,  with  smoke  so  dense 
and  black,  that  it  entirely  obscured  the  sun,  rendering  it  dark  as 
night.  The  inhabitants  were  appalled  with  terror,  some  fled  the 
country,  others  collected  their  families  and  shut  themselves  up 


1.  '^' 


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f .  P'  ■ 


REALEJO.  145 

in  their  houses,  or  assembled  eri  masse  in  the  churches ;  beasts  were 
seen  near  the  habitations  crouching  with  fear,  and  wild  fowls 
were  heard  shrieking  through  the  air.  On  the  night  of  the 
third  day,  the  country  underwent  another  frightful  convulsion, 
followed  by  a  terrific  explosion,  when  this  volcano  vomited  forth 
a  deluge  of  liquid  fire,  which  swept  down  its  sides,  carrying  de- 
vastation in  its  track.  At  this  eruption,  so  great  was  the  quantity 
of  lava  thrown  out  that  part  of  the  summit,  near  the  crater,  was 
carried  away,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  accompanying  plate. 

Eealejohas  a  fine  harbor,  being  situated  on  an  arm  of  the  ocean„ 
As  you  pass  in,  passing  an  island  at  the  entrance,  you  find  your- 
self in  a  bay  of  sufficient  capacity  to  accommodate  the  navies  of 
the  world.  Our  steamer  passed  up  three  miles  to  a  dock  which 
was  being  constructed  by  Howard  and  Son,  and  to  which  we 
made  fast.  This  is  one  of  the  coal  depots  for  the  line,  and  pre- 
parations were  making  to  construct  suitable  buildings.  After 
landing  our  baggage,  we  engaged  "bungoes"  to  convey  us  to 
Bealejo,  three  miles  distant,  and  as  we  passed  along  up,  we  found 
the  margin  of  the  bay  low  and  swampy,  and,  in  some  places,  as 
will  be  seen  at  the  right,  above  the  dock,  forests  of  mango-trees 
growing  up  frgm  the  water.  Several  rivers  put  in  at  the  head 
of  the  bay,  their  banks  low  and  swampy,  presenting  a  very  un- 
healthy appearance. 

Realejo  is  a  town  of  400  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  one  story, 
built  of  adobes^  and  covered  with  tile.  There  are  several 
churches  in  ruins,  and  one  much  dilapidated,  but  still  used ;  the 
natives  are  the  most  squalid  I  saw  in  Central  America,  and 
everything  is  done  on  that  behind-the-age  principle  that  charac- 
terizes Spanish  America. 

At  the  left,  in  the  accompanying  Plate,  will  be  seen  a  cart, 
drawn  by  two  yoke  of  oxen,  and  lashed  to  their  horns  are  sticks, 
four  feet  in  length,  which  fall  against  their  foreheads,  and  by 
which  they  draw.  The  cart-wheels  are  made  by  sawing  two 
cuts  from  a  log,  and  boring  holes  through  at  the  heart ;  a  pole 
is  run  through,  with  a  linch-pin  hole  in  each  end.  A  rude 
franie  of  reed  or  cane  is  put  on  to  keep  the  wheels  from  run- 
ning together,  and  as  this  is  covered  with  raw  hides,  it  serves 
as  a  protection  to  the  passengers  in  case  of  rain.    When  all  are: 

10 


146  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

ready,  tlie  driver  mounts  tlie  tongue,  with  a  long  pole,  prepared 
to  "  stir  up  the  animals ;"  he  gives  the  inimitable  whoop,  and 
they  are  under  way.  When  he  wants  them  to  bear  to  the  left, 
lie  applies  the  end  of  the  pole  to  the  right-hand  leader,  shoves 
him  out,  and  they  come  to,  and  vice  versa.  On  the  road  there 
is  always  in  attendance  a  little  boy,  whose  duty  it  is  to  "  grease 
the  wheels."  He  is  supplied  with  a  quantity  of  green  bark,  and 
when  the  wheels  creak  he  applies  a  piece ;  it  winds  around  the 
axle,  and  seems  to  ease  the  pain.  This,  to  a  person  accustomed 
to  an  easy  carriage,  would  seem  an  uncomfortable  mode  of  per- 
forming a  journey ;  yet,  dear  reader,  in  this  same  cart,  at  this 
particular  time,  there  is  a  gentleman  and  lady,  well-known  in 
ISTew  York  circles,  on  their  way  to  ISTicaragua,  en  route  to  the 
United  States.  They  are  seated  on  their  trunks,  in  a  recum- 
bent attitude,  with  heads  uncovered,  each  drop  of  the  wheel 
seeming  to  give  rise  to  new  phrenological  developments. 

There  is  a  spacious  hotel  now  being  built  here,  and  there  is 
a  prospect  that  the  town  will  become  Americanized.  We  were 
obliged  to  take  lodgings  at  a  private  house.  We  lived  on 
chickens,  eggs,  and  carna^  or  beef  dried  in  strings,  and  sold  by 
the  yard.  At  night  we  slung  ourselves  up  in  hammocks,  at  the 
mercy  of  the  mosquitos.  After  a  detention  of  two  days,  we 
succeeded  in  hiring  passage,  in  carts,  for  Chinandega.  Our 
driver  was  anxious  to  start  at  an  early  hour,  and  hitched  his 
oxen  to  the  cart  at  2  P.  M.  We  seated  ourselves  on  trunks,  in- 
side, and  were  soon  under  way. 

Nothing  could  have  been  more  ludicrous  than  the  appearance 
of  the  passengers,  as  each  had  assumed  a  peculiar  attitude. 
Here  sat  a  lank  doctor  of  six  feet  three,  his  feet  hanging  out  at 
the  fore-end  of  the  cart,  his  legs  and  body  being  warped  up 
along  the  side  of  the  covering,  his  head  sticking  out  behind. 
On  the  other  side,  seated  flat  in  the  bottom,  was  a  man  very 
nearly  as  tall,  but  not  half  so  amiable,  who  had  somewhat  the 
appearance  of  a  clothes-rack  unshipped,  and  seemed  to  think 
this  a  suitable  occasion  for  the  use  of  hard  words.  He  was 
under  oath  ali  day,  and  swore  himself  to  sleep  at  night.  Soon 
after  starting,  our  driver,  with  the  greatest  precision,  brought 
up  against  a  rock,  which  not  only  caused  a  great  mortality 


/jcfef 


A  WALL   STREET  FINANCIER  FLEECED.  147 

among  tlie  hats  inside,  but  broke  our  axle.  Our  driver  hacked 
down  a  sapling  with  his  matchet,  and  soon  had  a  new  one,  and 
was  again  under  waj. 

Our  driver  was  a  decided  genius  in  his  way,  and  with  a  suit- 
able pair  of  pantaloons,  and  a  clean  shirt,  would  have  done 
honor  to  Wall-street.  He  would  hide  his  oxen  every  opportu- 
nity, and  then  throw  a  native  boy  in  our  way,  who  would  offer 
to  find  them  for  $5.  I  need  not  add  that  the  reward  was  divid- 
ed between  them.  One  transaction  of  this  kind  we  thought 
quite  sufficient ;  and  in  his  subsequent  financial  transactions  he 
was  not  so  successful,  as  the  sequel  will  show.  His  entire  ward- 
robe was  a  shirt,  which  he  carried  in  his  hat.  Our  muchacho, 
who  attended  to  the  wheels,  was  much  less  encumbered.  We 
gave  him  a  shirt,  which  he  very  judiciously  rolled  up  and  tied 
around  his  neck ;  I  say  judiciously,  for  when  he  arrived  at  Chi- 
nandega  he  had  a  clean  shirt  to  put  on. 

The  country  from  Eealejo  to  Chinandega,  is  a  continuous  mud- 
hole,  and,  together  with  the  intense  heat  and  our  wretched  con- 
veyance, made  our  sufferings  intolerable.  The  distance  was  but 
seven  miles,  still  as  night  overtook  us,  and  our  team  gave  out, 
we  were  obliged  to  encamp  before  reaching  the  town.  In  the 
morning,  our  driver  went  out  in  search  of  the  team,  but  soon 
returned,  pronouncing  them  unfindable.  This  was  most  vexa- 
tious. ^  We  were  almost  in  sight  of  Chinandega,  but  with  the 
prospect  of  being  detained  for  hours.  Our  driver  was  accom- 
panied by  a  worthy,  of  about  his  own  age  and  personal  appear- 
ance. We  sent  our  driver  out  again  in  search,  but  his  companion 
remained.  After  loitering  for  half  an  hour,  he  proposed  going 
out  in  search  of  the  team,  thought  he  could  find  them  for  five 
dollars ;  we,  as  if  wishing  to  drive  the  best  bargain  we  could, 
asked  him  if  he  could  not  find  them  for  less  ;  he  came  down  to 
four,  three,  two,  and  one  dollar,  and  finally  to  twenty-five  cents. 
We  took  him,  tied  his  hands  behind  him,  then  tied  him  to  a  tree; 
we  then  cut  a  half-dozen  good  sized  saplings^  designing  to  "  put 
him  through  a  course  of  sprouts."  He  was  almost  frantic,  and 
seemed  to  look  upon  this  as  a  crisis  in  his  affairs.  We  asked  him 
where  the  oxen  were,  he  said,  "just  over  the  hill ;"  we  asked 
him  if  our  driver  knew  it,  he  said,  "Si,  Senor."  We  told  him 
to  call  him,  and  in  a  moment  he  was  at  hand.     He  looked  with 


148  CALIFOBiaA  ILLUSTKATED. 

apparent  concern  at  tlie  situation  of  his  companion^  and  en- 
deavored to  keep  beyond  the  orbit  of  our  saplings.  We  ordered 
him  to  back  up  to  a  tree,  he  fell  on  his  knees  and  said  he  would 
find  the  team  in  "  U7ia  moniento,^^  and  in  a  moment  they  were  at 
the  tongue  of  our  cart ;  we  now  demanded  his  half  of  the  five 
dollars  already  extorted,  which  he  immediately  paid  over,  and 
seemed  to  breathe  more  freely.  We  now  released  his  compan- 
ion, in  part,  in  order  to  give  him  an  opportunity  to  escape, 
which  we  saw  he  was  anxious  to  do.  He  improved  the  golden 
moment,  for  as  we  were  making  certain  demonstrations  with  our 
saplings  he  made  one  tremendous  leap  and  disappeared  in  the 
chaparrals.  We  were  soon  at  Chinandega,  and  did  not  forget 
to  deduct  the  other  two  dollars  and  a  half  from  our  freight  bill. 
Chinandega  is  a  beautiful  town,  well  laid  out,  the  streets  run- 
ning at  right  angles,  and  built  upon  compactly.  In  the  suburbs, 
the  streets  are  walled  up,  with  the  fluted  cactus,  with  an  occa- 
sional opening  through  which  you  enter  into  ornamented  groves 
and  arbors.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  and  luxury  of 
these  retreats.  Fruits  of  the  most  delicious  flavor  grow  spon- 
taneously, every  vine  blooms,  and  the  air  laden  with  incense, 
breathes  through,  whispering  gently  to  the  foliage ;  here  are 
also  innumerable  tropical  birds,  lending  their  notes  and  plumage 
to  the  scene.  This  town  is  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  women, 
and  never  did  I  look  upon  such  specimens  of  female  grace  and 
loveliness.  Their  eyes  were  dark  and  lustrous,  and  their  coun- 
tenances, like  their  native  chme,  always  beaming  with  sunshine. 
The  town  numbers  several  churches  and  convents  of  great  ex- 
tent, one  of  the  former  being  surmounted  by  a  spacious  dome 
and  spire,  (see  Plate,)  and  furnished  with  an  organ  and  valuable 
scriptural  paintings.  Near  the  town  is  a  stream  and  pool,  the 
favorite  bathing-places  of  the  inhabitants.  (See  Plate.)  In  the 
pool  are  seen  both  sexes,  the  Senoritas  displaying  their  graceful 
forms,  without  the  least  reserve  or  sense  of  impropriety.  Water 
is  obtained  here  for  the  use  of  the  town ;  bathers  fill  the  earthen 
jars,  when  the  Senoritas  place  them  upon  their  heads  and  walk 
gracefully  away.  Here  are  seen  a  party  of  females  preparing 
corn  for  "tortillos  ;"  they  boil  it  in  water  into  which  is  thrown 
a  handful  of  ashes ;  it  is  then  put  into  a  basket  and  the  hull 
removed,  by  getting  in  with  their  feet ;  it  is  then  washed,  dried. 


•■i-*!ci 


< 

Q 
S  < 


CO 


o 
QC 
ID 

m 
o 


LEON.  149 

and  parched,  placed  upon  a  flat  stone,  and  with  another  stone 
ground  to  a  flour. 

I  engaged  a  cart  to  take  myself  and  baggage  to  Grenada,  but 
after  waiting  one  day,  with  no  prospect  of  starting,  I  purchased 
a  horse,  and  engaged  passage  for  my  trunk  in  a  cart  that  was  about 
to  start,  and  was  soon  under  way.  We  passed  through  Chichi- 
galpa,  Poselagua,  &c.,  small  towns,  and  at  night,  put  up  at  a 
miserable  ranchoj  with  the  prospect  of  a  poor  supper,  and  poorer 
lodgings.  We  had  traveled,  during  the  day,  through  a  level, 
densely  timbered  country,  the  road  having  been  a  continuous 
mud-hole,  in  many  places  almost  impassable ;  I  stretched  my- 
self out  on  a  bench,  half  my  length,  and  after  paying  court  to 
Morpheus  for  an  hour,  fell  into  his  arms.  The  next  morning,  at 
ten,  we  arrived  at  Leon,  the  capital  of  Nicaragua ;  we  had  not 
breakfasted,  consequently  this  was  our  first  care,  after  which  we 
took  a  survey  of  the  town. 

This  is  a  place  of  much  importance,  being  the  home  of  the 
aristocracy  and  talent  of  the  country.  It  is  ornamented  with 
public  buildings,  churches,  and  convents  which,  for  extent  and 
magnificence,  are  not  equalled  in  the  country.  The  plaza  is 
spacious,  and  surrounded  by  public  buildings,  elaborately  orna- 
mented with  stucco,  all  indicating  the  work  of  a  master-hand- 
My  first  impressions  were  of  the  most  pleasing  character,  but 
upon  extending  my  walk,  a  feeling  of  sadness  insensibly  stole 
upon  me.  Here,  too,  amidst  the  beauties,  I  might  say  the  per- 
fections of  nature,  here  in  this  almost  celestial  atmosphere,  is 
found  the  impress  of  those  sanguinary  revolutions,  with  which 
this  doomed  country  has  been  laid  waste.  One  half  the  town  is 
in  ruins.  Palaces  that  were  once  the  scene  of  regal  banquests, 
are  now  roofless,  and  tenanted  only  by  loathsome  reptiles.  Here, 
are  figures,  representing  Liberty  and  Peace,  now  half-buried  be- 
neath the  ruins,  their  faces  bearing  the  marks  of  the  ruthless 
sabre.  The  political,  like  the  natural  existence  of  this  country,  has 
always  been  precarious  ;  her  social  elements,  like  her  subterran- 
ean caverns,  have  always  been  in  a  state  of  agitation ;  the  lava 
of  human  passions  frequently  bursting  forth,  devastating,  and 
drenching  the  country  with  blood. 

The  inhabitants  of  Leon  were,  as  a  class,  superior  to  any  I 
had  seen  in  the  country ;  the  men  were  robust,  active,  and  intel- 


160  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

ligent,  and  the  females  beautiful.  Thej  seemed  more  nearly 
allied  to  the  Castilian  than  any  I  had  seen  in  any  of  the  depart- 
ments of  Spanish  America.  Hospitality  is  the  predominant 
characteristic  ;  we  frequentty  found  ourselves  under  obligations, 
and  owing  debts  of  gratitude  I  fear  it  will  never  be  in  our  power 
to  cancel.  We  feel  under  particular  and  lasting  obligation  to 
Don  Pedro  Yaca,  and  family,  for  their  unsolicited  attentions.  It 
was  to  them  we  were  indebted  for  a  bountiful  repast,  which  was 
prepared  and  served  by  the  accomplished  daughters, 

Whose  sympathetic  smiles  chased  fatigue  away, 
And  changed  the  night  of  melancholy  into  day. 

They  were  beautiful,  and  unconsciously  so.  I  was  at  a  loss 
which  most  to  admire,  the  graceful  forms,  finely-chiseled  features, 
lustrous  eyes,  and  flowing  hair,  or  that  soft  winning  artlessness, 
which  was  so  preeminently  theirs.  There  was  a  daughter-in-law 
in  the  family;  she  was  also  beautiful,  but  her  beauty  was  in 
strong  contrast  with  that  of  the  daughters — she  having  auburn 
hair,  light  eyes,  and  an  alabaster  complexion.  I  here  fell  in 
with  Capt.  B.,  an  "  old  salt,"  who  very  kindly  received  my  trunk 
into  the  cart  with  his  own. 


I 


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on 


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2 

, 

o 

O 

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30 

^ 

Cjiaptn  Cmi^iitq-fiftji 


A  PROBLEM  IN  MATHEMATICS  WORKED  OUT  WITH  A  CANE— PUEBLO  NUEV A— CULTIVATING 
THE  ACQUAINTANCE  OF  A  HORSE — LOOKING  FOR  THE  RIDER — AN  "  OLD  SALT"  STUCK  IN 
THE  MUD — UNCOMFORTABLE  night's  REST — NAGAROTES — LAKE  LEON  AND  THE  SURROUND- 
ING VOLCANOS — MATARES — DELIGHTFUL  COUNTRY — MANAGUA — DON  JOSE  MARIA  RIVA3 
— NINDAREE — RUINS  OP  A  VOLCANO — A  LONG  INDIVIDUAL  IN  SPURS — A  DILEMMA — 
ONE  OF  MY  horse's  LEGS  IN  MOTION— A  BOY  IN  A  MUSICAL  MOOD— ENTRY  INTO  MAS- 
SAY  A — BLOOMERISM. 

After  remaining  three  hours  at  Leon,  we  were  again  in  motion ; 
not,  however,  without  the  usual  "j9oco  tiempoJ''  Our  driver  now 
had  half  a  dozen  '■''  companeros  f  and  in  this  country  people  are 
slow,  in  mathematical  progression,  or  retrogression — what  takes 
one  half  an  hour  to  do,  takes  three  six  hours.  Our  captain,  how- 
ever, worked  out  this  problem  with  his  cane  upon  the  back  of 
one  of  the  drivers,  which  produced  a  very  different  result.  Our 
team  did  not  get  hungry,  nor  our  drivers  fatigued ;  the  latter 
manifested  a  particular  aversion  to  the  captain's  system  of  mathe- 
matics. The  very  sight  of  his  cane  would  create  a  stampede 
among  them. 

Our  route,  during  the  day,  lay  through  a  densely  timbered 
country,  the  road  muddy,  and  heat  excessive ;  our  team  becoming 
much  jaded.  We  moved  on  until  11  p.m.,  when,  finding  feed, 
we  encamped  for  the  night ;  we  found  neither  a  downy  pillow  nor 
a  musquito  net,  but  were  obliged  to  drop  down  in  the  mud  at 
the  mercy  of  those  vile  insects.  Three  hours  of  rest  suf&ced, 
and  at  2  A.M.,  we  were  again  in  motion,  and  at  nine  arrived  at 
Pueblo  Nueva.  Here  we  found  nothing  new,  excepting  that  the 
inhabitants  wore  hats  and  pantaloons.  We  had  breakfast  and 
were  again  in  motion,  our  route,  as  on  the  previous  day,  being 
through  a  densely  timbered  country,  with  extremely  muddy 
roads.  I  had  purchased  a  horse  and  equipage,  and  anticipated 
a  pleasant  day's  ride.  My  horse  and  myself  were  strangers,  but 
I  was  soon  in  a  fair  way  of  cultivating  his  acquaintance.     The 


162  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

party  liad  gone  on.  After  arranging  mj  saddle,  I  mounted, 
gave  the  word,  and  started,  myself,  but  my  horse  did  not ;  I 
applied  my  spur  gently,  but  no  signs  of  life ;  I  applied  both 
spurs,  with  the  same  result.  I  dismounted,  examined  the  saddle, 
and  finding  all  right,  I  again  mounted ;  but  with  all  my  argu- 
ments I  could  not  induce  him  to  take  the  first  step.  Presuming 
there  was  something  wrong,  I  again  dismounted,  and  went  into 
a  critical  examination.  The  saddle  was  properly  adjusted,  he 
had  the  usual  number  of  legs,  and  seemed  in  good  condition. 
There  was  nothing  malicious  in  his  eye,  nor  was  he  stuck  in  the 
mud.  I  cut  a  fair-sized  cane  and  again  mounted,  but  with  this 
additional  argument  I  could  not  induce  him  to  move,  although 
it  was  accompanied  by  the  most  vehement  jestures.  He  would 
occasionally  look  me  in  the  face,  and  seem  to  say,  "I  don^t 
exoxtly  understand  what  this  means."  Three  natives  coming 
along  at  this  particular  juncture,  I  induced  them  to  go  behind 
and  push ;  their  first  effort  caused  a  general  relaxation  of  the 
muscular  system,  and  the  next  moment  my  horse  was  on  his 
back,  his  eyes  rolled  up,  the  very  picture  of  resignation  ;  1  was 
looking  around  on  the  ground  for  the  rider.  We  stood  in 
momentary  expectation  of  seeing  him  breathe  his  last,  but  he 
soon  got  up  and  very  deliberately  commenced  eating  ;  I  tried  to 
lead  him,  but  no.  As  the  natives  were  going  in  the  same  direc- 
tion, we  each  cut  a  long  pole  and  went  behind,  soon  convincing 
him  that  he  was  a  very  fair  traveler. 

I  soon  overtook  the  captain,  he  being  on  foot,  a  short  distance 
in  the  rear  of  the  party,  and  informed  him  of  the  difficulty  I  had 
had  with  my  horse.  He  thought  it  was  owing  to  his  reluctance 
at  leaving  home,  and  proposed  to  buy  a  half-interest,  and  I  pay 
half  the  expenses  of  the  cart.  Two  influences  operated  upon 
my  mind  in  coming  to  a  conclusion  ;  one,  that  my  trunk  was  al- 
ready on  the  cart,  the  other  that  I  thought  one  owner  quite  in- 
sufficient for  such  a  horse.  The  captain  mounted,  and  I  hurried 
on  to  overtake  the  team.  Night  soon  overtook  us,  and  with  it 
a  terrific  thunder  storm.  It  was  extremely  dark,  and  we  were 
obliged  to  grope  about  to  find  our  way,  the  rain  pouring  down  in 
torrents.  "We  had  distanced  the  captain,  but  he  soon  informed 
us  of  his  locality  by  bawling  out  lustily  for  help.  We  were 
startled,  and  hurried  back  to  his  assistance,  when  we  found  him 


*3-r:^ 


^^'   * 


^W 


LAKE  LEON.  153 

mounted,  the  only  difficulty  being  that  our  horse  imagined  him- 
self stuck  in  the  mud.  The  captain  had  exhausted  all  the  ar- 
guments of  spurs  and  stogy,  but  could  not  succeed  in  dispelling 
from  his  mind  this  strange  hallucination.  We  cut  a  couple  of 
sapUngSj  and  after  warping  him  "fore  and  aft,"  half  a  dozen 
times,  he  came  to  the  conclusion  that  there  must  be  some  mis- 
take about  it,  and  moved  on.  We  were  destined  to  encounter 
other  difficulties,  for  soon  after  overtaking  our  cart  the  axle 
broke,  we  unloaded,  cut  a  new  one,  and  after  a  detention  of  two 
hours,  were  again  in  motion. 

As  if  to  seal  our  fate  for  the  night,  our  cart  became  entangled, 
and  fastened  in  a  mud-hole ;  this  was  a  most  inauspicious  state  of 
things,  and  to  say  that  we  were  vexed  is  using  a  tame  term. 
There  is  always  one  alternative,  in  our  case  there  were  two ; 
we  could  either  stand  up  in  the  rain,  or  lay  down  in  the  mud ; 
we  chose  the  former,  and  as  soon  as  it  was  sufficiently  light, 
disentangled  our  cart,  and  at  nine  arrived  at  Nagarotes. 

We  were  in  a  sad  plight  to  make  our  appearance  among 
bright  eyes.  We  were  in  a  similar  condition  to  the  individual 
who  had  not  slept  any  for  three  nights — last  night,  to-night,  and 
to-morrow  night,  with  the  addition,  in  our  case,  of  having  been 
thoroughly  saturated  with  rain.  Our  driver,  as  if  to  show  his 
superior  wisdom,  took  his  hat  from  beneath  a  rawhide  in  the 
cart,  and  dressed  in  dry  pants  and  shirt,  the  first  clothing  he 
had  had  on  since  our  first  acquaintance  with  him.  Nagarotes  is 
a  miserable  town ;  the  inhabitants  a  mixture  of  Spanish  and  In- 
dian, the  latter  predominating.  They  are  all  extremely  robust 
and  healthy  in  appearance. 

After  breakfast  we  moved  on,  and  at  12  M.  arrived  at  Lake 
Leon.  The  appearance  of  this  lake  as  it  opened  to  our  view 
was  peculiarly  striking.  It  is  shut  in  by  lofty  mountains,  which 
tower  up  in  innumerable  peaks  of  volcanic  origin,  from  many 
of  which  the  smoke  curls  gracefully  out,  commingling  with  the 
clouds.  From  the  center  of  the  lake  rises  an  island  of  conical 
form,  which  towers  up  as  if  to  look  into  the  surrounding  craters. 
While  our  driver  was  feeding  his  team  we  prepared  for  a  bath. 
We  were,  however,  much  disappointed  in  the  anticipated  plea- 
sure, finding  the  heat  of  the  water  almost  insufferable.  Our  first 
sensation  was  that  of  pain,  and  we  were  soon  again  in  our 


154  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

clotlies.  This  phenomenon  added  a  peculiar  interest ;  the  lake 
seemed  a  huge  cauldron,  steaming  over  an  invisible  furnace, 
the  surrounding  craters  serving  as  flues  or  chimneys. 

We  passed  along  down  to  Matares,  a  small  town  situated  on 
an  eminence  overlooking  the  lake,  and  inhabited  by  descendants 
of  the  African  race.  We  breakfasted  on  chickens, /ryo/es,  tor- 
tillos,  eggs,  &c.,  and  after  an  hour's  detention  started  for  Mana- 
gua. We  passed  through  a  delightful  region  of  country,  the 
soil,  in  many  places,  highly  cultivated,  bearing  the  impress  of 
thrift  and  industry,  I  had  not  before  seen  in  the  country.  Fruits 
grow  in  abundance,  cattle  had  an  unlimited  range,  and  were 
the  finest  I  ever  saw ;  the  country  was  broken,  the  mountains 
towering  up  to  the  clouds,  and  some  covered  with  perpetual 
snow;  but  at  their  base  were  vales  watered  by  mountain 
rivulets,  and  shaded  by  groves  of  orange  and  fig,  seeming  a 
retreat  fit  for  the  angels. 

Kight  overtook  us,  and  we  encamped  on  the  bank  of  the  lake ; 
starting  early  in  the  morning  we  descended  a  hill,  being  the 
immediate  bank  of  the  lake,  and  at  sunrise  arrived  at  Managua, 
which  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake.  We  breakfasted  with 
Don  Jose  Maria  Eivas.  He  was  a  man  of  much  intelligence, 
and  seemed  to  feel  a  lively  interest  in  the  affairs  of  the  United 
States,  as  well  as  those  of  his  own  country.  He  alluded  to  Gen- 
eral Taylor's  career,  and  spoke  of  his  death  as  a  national  calamity. 
We  could  not  prevail  upon  hirri  to  accept  remuneration  for  our 
breakfast,  but  pressed  it  upon  a  member  of  the  family.  We 
hope  we  may  some  day  have  the  honor  of  serving  the  worthy 
Don  at  OUT  own  board. 

After  a  detention  of  two  hours,  we  were  again  under  way, 
passing  through  a  most  delighful  country,  with  highly  cultivated 
plantations,  watered  by  rivulets  running  from  the  mountains. 
We  passed  along  on  the  margin  of  the  stream  which  connects 
Lake  Leon  with  Lake  Nicaragua,  running  in  the  direction  of  the 
latter.  After  a  fatiguing  day's  march  night  overtook  us,  and 
our  driver  very  considerately  got  the  cart  fast  in  another  mud- 
hole.  We  encamped,  and  soon  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing 
the  rumbling  of  distant  thunder,  and  soon  were  wet  to  the 
skin.  In  the  morning  at  sunrise  we  were  at  Nindaree ;  soon 
after  leaving  this  town  we  came  to  what  appeared  the  ruins  of 


;o 

:C 
> 

<    S 
:>    S 


>    z 

H   2' 


>-**.■; 


-    i  ^v. 


?-\^ 


155 

a  volcano.  It  had  consumed  itself  to  its  very  base,  and  tlie 
surrounding  country  was  strewn  with  lava,  which,  in  color  and 
form,  much  resembled  blooms  or  pigs  of  iron.  We  moved  on, 
and  soon  saw  indications  of  the  city  of  Massaya. 

I  had  two  companions  who  were  mounted  on  donkeys.  (See 
Plate).  Our  long  friend  was  obliged  to  hold  up  his  feet  to  keep 
them  from  dragging  on  the  ground;  he  wore  spurs,  but  they 
were,  atfirst^  of  no  use  to  him ;  when  he  would  raise  his  feet  to 
apply  them,  they  would  be  so  far  aft  they  would  not  touch  the 
animal ;  he,  however,  with  Yankee  ingenuity,  put  them  on  just 
below  the  knee ;  this  had  a  perceptible  influence,  enabling  him 
to  lead  the  party. 

We  were  disposed  to  make  as  favorable  an  impression  upon 
our  entree  as  possible.  My  other  companion  had  hoisted  his 
umbrella,  and  got  his  donkey  well  waked  up ;  I  had  been  lead- 
ing our  horse  all  the  morning,  wishing  to  make  my  advent  on  a 
fresh  animal.  As  we  were  about  to  ascend  the  hill  I  mounted ; 
my  horse  at  this  moment  was  seized  with  a  most  voracious 
appetite.  I  applied  my  spurs,  which  only  seemed  to  give  him 
a  keener  relish  for  the  grass.  I  pulled  upon  the  bridle — it 
seemed  to  open  his  mouth  the  wider,  but  go  he  would  not.  My 
companions  had  left  me,  and  even  the  cart  had  passed ;  and 
now  a  party  of  females,  laden  with  corn  for  the  market,  walked 
leisurely  by,  not,  however,  without  giving  a  mischievous  wink 
at  my  perplexity.  This  was  too  much ;  I  dismounted,  cut  a 
heavy  stick,  and  again  mounted.  Under  the  influence  of  this, 
he  seemed  to  devour  small  brush  with  the  greatest  avidity.  I 
must  confess  I  felt  cornered ;  what  to  do  I  did  not  know.  I 
hailed  a  native  lad  who  was  passing,  and  requested  him  to  go 
behind  and  push ;  this  the  horse  seemed  to  think  derogatory  to 
his  standing^  and  raising* one  of  his  hoofs,  he  struck  the  lad 
about  raidshij)s  ;  the  precise  number  of  summersets  he  turned, 
I  am  not  prepared  to  say.  He  soon  gained  his  feet,  and,  in  a 
most  musical  mood,  took  the  longest  kind  of  steps  in  the  direc- 
tion of  a  rancho^  where,  no  doubt,  his  mother  lived. 

.  One  of  the  horse's  legs  having  got  in  motion,  I  applied,  most 
vigorously,  spurs  and  cudgel,  and  soon  the  other  three  started, 
and  I  was  under  way  at  a  rapid  pace.  I  soon  gained  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill,  when  my  horse  raised  his  head,  pricked  up  his 


156  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

ears,  and  witli  his  nostrils  distended  looked  a  very  Buceplialus. 
Never  did  I  make  a  more  auspicious  entree  into  a  city  tlian  on 
this  occasion  ;  the  natives  stood  all  agog,  and  even  the  Bloomer- 
clad  senoras,  that  had  looked  upon  me  sneeringly  but  a  few 
moments  before,  now  courtesied  with  veneration.  Apropos  of 
Bloom erism — this  is  the  prevailing  fashion  in  Central  America  ; 
it  has  become  so  deeply  rooted  that  it  will  be  difficult  to  erad- 
icate it.  I  would  recommend  this  as  a  favorable  retreat  for 
ladies  of  the  North  who  wish  to  dispense  with  the  long  robe. 


CjiaptBr  CtiiBtttq-Bixtli. 


HASSAYA— THE  CARNIVAL— FEMALE  LABORS— GOURDS— MAIDENS  CONSIGNED  TO  A  VOL- 
CANO— A  DONKEY  "  NON  EST  " — OX  veVSUS  DONKEY — SAME  MEDICINE  PRESCRIBED — 
LAKE  NICARAGUA — GRENADA — A  "  PRIEST"  IN  A  CONVENT — "  OUR"  HORSE — A  GROUP 
OF  ISLANDS — CROSS  THE  LAKE — MR.  DERBYSHIRE'S  PLANTATION — BREAKFAST — BUL- 
LOCKS STEPPING  ON  BOARD— SAIL  FOR  SAN  CARLOS— MAGNIFICENT  SCENE— A  HYMN 
OP  THANKS — A  MOUNTAIN  CITY — GOLD  MINES — ARRIVAL  AT  SAN  CARLOS — CUSTOM- 
HOUSE REGULATIONS  REPUDIATED. 

After  breakfast  we  strolled  about  to  see  the  town ;  the  loca- 
tion is  commanding,  being  on  the  bank  of  a  lake  of  the  same 
name.  The  town  is  large,  well  laid  out,  with  an  open  plaza  in 
the  centre,  which  serves  as  a  market-place.  At  this  time  every- 
thing wore  a  business-like  appearance.  Extensive  preparations 
were  being  made  for  the  carnival,  which  was  to  come  off  in  a 
few  days.  Here  are  many  fine  buildings,  including  churches, 
monasteries,  and  convents,  all  elaborately  ornamented,  and 
decorated  with  paintings. 

This  is  considered  one  of  the  most  pleasant  towns,  if  not  the 
most  pleasant,  in  the  country.  Yet,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  it 
is  wholly  dependent,  for  water,  upon  the  lake,  the  bank  of  which 
is  a  perpendicular  ledge  of  rocks,  one  hundred  feet  in  height. 
Up  this  precipice  females  are  toiling,  day  after  day,  for  life,  in 
the  service  of  inhuman  masters.  The  water  is  conveyed  in 
gourds  of  immense  size,  which  are  held  to  the  back  by  a  strap 
and  netting  of  grass,  the  former  passing  over  the  forehead. 
These  gourds  grow  on  trees,  and  are  natives  of  the  tropics; 
they  grow  sufficiently  large  to  contain  one  and  a  half  or  two 
gallons,  perhaps  more. 

The  surrounding  country  is  a  mass  of  lava,  the  mountains 
frequently  towering  up,  terminating  in  volcanic  peaks,  the  most 
prominent  being  that  of  Massaya.  This  was  once  the  terror  of 
the  country,  but  has  now  ceased  to  burn.  It  is  said  that  the 
natives  formerly,  in  order  to  appease  its  rage,  were  in  the  habit 


158  CALIFORXIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

of  consigning  their  most  beautiful  maidens  to  its  terrific  bosom. 
After  stopping  two  hours  we  were  again  under  way,  en  route 
to  Grenada,  distant  twelve  miles. 

The  country  is  rolling,  and  timbered  with  cedars,  our  route 
laying  along  a  stream  emptying  into  Lake  Xicaragua.  After 
traveling  six  miles  we  encamped  for  the  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing our  companion's  donkey  was  non  est;  there  were  three 
drivers  now  in  the  party ;  four  reals  was  the  first  charge  for 
finding  said  donkey;  the  proposition  being  readily  accepted 
by  the  owner,  they  thoiaght  it  was  worth  five ;  this  being  ac- 
cepted, six  were  demanded,  or  two  reoJs  each  for  the  drivers. 
ITow,  we  still  had  fresh  in  our  minds  a  certain  transaction,  the 
subject  of  which  was  an  ox  instead  of  a  donkey.  After  a  word 
of  consultation  we  came  to  the  conclusion,  that  notwithstanding 
the  disparity  in  the  length  of  ears,  the  same  remedy  might 
prove  effectual  in  both  cases.  We  immediately  acted  upon  this 
hypothesis,  and  prepared  a  liberal  dose  of  saplings^  and  in 
order  that  the  medicine  might  reach  the  system  imadulteratedj 
we  ordered  them  to  take  off  their  shirts.  The  medicine  proved 
too  strong  for  their  nerves,  even  before  tasting  it,  and  forgetting 
the  reals,  they  assured  us  that  they  would  have  ^Waula  aqui  una 
momenta,''''  and  in  five  minutes  his  donkeyship  was  under  the 
saddle.  It  was  the  donkey  belonging  to  our  long  friend,  and  it 
was  shrewdly  suspected  that  he  (the  above-named  donkey)  was 
in  collusion  with  the  drivers.  Whether  the  accusation  was  true 
or  false,  I  am  not  prepared  to  say ;  I  noticed,  however,  that  in 
the  course  of  the  morning  his  master  administered  to  him  a 
dose  of  the  same  kind  of  medicine. 

At  9  A.  M.,  we  were  on  the  banks  of  Lake  Nicaragua,  at  Gre- 
nada. This  is  a  beautifully  located  town,  with  ^^aved  streets, 
and  magnificent  churches.  A  description  of  one  town  in  Cen- 
tral America  describes  them  all.  They  are  all  built  upon  the 
same  plan,  with  spacious  plazas  in  the  centre ; — extensive 
churches  and  convents,  all  after  a  similar  order  of  architecture, 
some  of  them  ornamented  with  a  degree  of  splendor  seldom 
surpassed,  if  equalled,  on  this  continent.  The  streets,  when 
paved,  are  paved  with  cobble-stone,  with  the  gutter  in  the  cen- 
ter. This  mode  has  its  advantages  when  carriages  are  seldom 
used. 


A  GKOUP  OF  ISLANDS.  159 

We  liere  found  an  American,  Mr.  Priest,  of  PhiladelpHa, 
who  had  jnst  entered  a  convent ;  not,  however,  with  a  view  to 
taking  the  veil,  but  to  take  down  the  superfluous  crosses  and 
ornaments,  preparatory  to  converting  the  building  into  a  hotel. 
The  building  had  attained  the  advanced  age  of  two  hundred 
and  forty  years ;  it  seemed  almost  sacrilege  to  divest  it  of  its 
ornaments.  The  natives  were  accustomed  to  seeing  priests 
enter  convents,  but  they  looked  upon  the  demonstrations  of  our 
Philadelphia  Priest  with  a  suspicious  eye. 

In  Spanish  America,  a  horse  that  is  led  through  the  street  is 
always  considered  "up"  for  sale.  We  hired  a  muchacho  to  lead 
ours  through  Grenada,  and  soon  had  several  applicants.  One, 
wishing  to  try  him,  mounted,  and  the  horse  being  thirsty, 
walked  very  deliberately  down  to  the  lake,  and  waded  in  until 
the  water  came  up  to  his  sides.  After  remaining  for  a  certain 
length  of  time,  the  rider  pulled  on  the  reins,  and  invited  the 
horse  to  step  ashore ;  but,  no — he  was  perfectly  satisfied  with 
his  situation,  and  did  not  wish  to  change  it.  He  applied  the 
spurs — the  horse  appeared  to  have  fallen  into  a  quiet  slumber; 
he  swore  in  Spanish,  but  it  was  of  no  use.  There  was  no  alter- 
native but  to  dismount,  and  wade  or  swim  ashore.  He  reached 
the  shore  in  safety,  but  did  not  buy  the  horse.  We  offered  him 
to  Mr.  Priest  for  six  dollars,  including  saddle,  bridle,  and  spurs. 
He  offered  two,  at  which  price  we  "closed  him  out." 

Our  first  efforts  were  directed  to  hiring  conveyance  to  San 
Carlos  and  San  Juan  ;  we  applied  to  Mr.  Derbyshire,  an  English 
merchant  from  Jamaica,  and  succeeded  in  hiring  a  hungo  of  suf- 
ficient capacity  to  carry  our  party  of  fifteen,  including  baggage. 
There  were  two  other  hungoes^  hired  by  Americans  that  were 
to  be  our  company  down ;  and  after  a  protracted  and  vexatious 
detention  of  two  days,  the  time  of  starting  arrived.  We  now, 
however,  had  a  new  and  unexpected  diflaculty  to  encounter,  the 
boatmen  refused  to  go  on  board  ;  but  after  a  long  parley,  a  com- 
plaint was  lodged  with  the  Alcalde,  who  ordered  out  a  file  of 
soldiers,  they  forming  in  line  along  the  river  bank  to  protect 
the  agents,  while  they  were  whipping  the  boatmen  on  board. 
At  length  the  oars  were  plied,  and  we  shot  out  into  the  lake, 
and  laid  our  course  for  a  group  of  islands  three  miles  distant, 
in  order  to  lay  in  a  stock  of  plantains  for  the  voyage.     This 


160  CALIFOENIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

group  number  one  hundred  islands,  each  having  one  house  and 
one  proprietor.  Nothing  can  excel  the  beauty  and  fertility  of 
this  group ;  tropical  fruits  grow  spontaneously  and  in  the 
greatest  abundance,  and  the  islands  seem  to  nestle,  with  feeling 
security,  in  the  bosom  of  this  lake,  which  sleeps  in  perpetual 
calm.  The  foliage  is  most  luxuriant,  interlaced  with  vines  bear- 
ing flowers  of  every  conceivable  hue ;  these  flowers  generally 
hang  from  the  vines  on  tendrils,  and  spend  their  hours  fondling 
with  the  air,  loading  its  breath  with  perfame.  The  trees  grow  to 
the  very  margin  of  the  lake,  and  seem  to  look  admiringly  into 
the  mirror  at  their  feet. 

Kemaining  during  the  night  we  took  an  early  start,  laying  our 
course  in  the  direction  of  Mr.  Derbyshire's  plantation,  which  is 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  thirty  miles  distant.  Our  mis- 
sion here,  or  that  of  our  boatmen,  was  to  take  in  cattle  for  the 
San  Juan  market.  We  arrived  early  in  the  morning  of  the 
second  day  from  the  islands.  Our  ambitious  boatmen  would 
work  only  in  the  evening  and  morning ;  in  the  middle  of  the 
day  they  would  lay  and  broil  in  the  sun. 

We  arrived  at  an  early  hour,  and  commenced  preparing  break- 
fast. We  had  chickens,  and  rice,  and  chocolate  on  board ;  we 
sent  to  the  plantation  for  eggs,  milk,  and  bananas,  and  soon 
sat  down  to  a  breakfast  that  would  have  pleased  the  most  fas- 
tidous  palate.  The  manner  in  which  it  was  served  I  am  not 
prepared  to  say  was  quite  so  satisfactory.  (See  Plate.)  One 
was  sitting  on  a  rock,  drinking  his  coffee  from  a  tin  basin ; 
another  standing  up,  doing  likewise ;  a  third  holding  a  chicken 
by  a  leg  and  wing,  trying  to  dissect  it  without  the  use  of  edged 
tools.  One  of  our  party  has  finished  his  breakfast,  and  is  sitting 
on  a  rock,  in  a  very  aldermanic  attitude,  smoking  a  pipe,  pro- 
bably the  only  one  ever  introduced  into  Central  America. 

While  we  were  taking  breakfast,  the  natives  were  taking  in  a 
cargo  of  bullocks  ;  the  manner  was  truly  Spanish.  The  ban- 
goes  were  anchored  a  short  distance  from  shore,  the  cattle  were 
driven  as  near  as  convenient,  when  one  of  them  would  be  las- 
soed^ the  other  end  of  the  lasso  being  fastened  to  the  horse's 
neck  ;  the  horse  is  mounted  and  spurred  into  the  lake,  drawing 
the  victim  after  him,  which,  in  case  of  resistance,  is  unmercifully 
beaten.     The  horse  tows  him  around  on  the  seaward  side  of  the 


A  HYMN   OF   THANKS.  1(51 

hungo,  when  the  lasso  is  slipped  and  the  bullock  beaten  and 
booted  until  he  jumps  on  board.     Two  passengers  of  this  class 
will  be  seen  cozilj  chewing  their  cuds  in  the  midships  of  the 
two  bungoes-  in  the  foreground,  and  one  is  just  stepping  on  board 
that  on  the  right.     In  the  background  is  seen  a  party  of  natives, 
cooking  and  eating  breakfast.     They  put  rice  and  plantains 
together  into  an  iron  pot,  and  stew  them  into  a  chowder  which 
is  served  out  in  small  gourds.     After  spending  an  hour  on  shore, 
there  was  a  simultaneous  move  to  go  on  board  ;  the  inexpressi- 
bles of  some  were  rolled  up,  others  pulled  off.     Before  starting 
we  saw  one  native  moving  towards  the  bungo^  and  one  only ; 
he  was  dressed  in  nature's  garments,  with  a  palm-leaf  hat  in  his 
hand,  and  a  bunch  of  stolen  bananas  on  his  shoulder.     On 
arriving  at  the  side  of  our  bungo,  we  found  the  best  apartments 
occupied  by  his  bullockship,  to  which  we  immediately  protested, 
as  contrary  to  the  rules  of  polite  society ;  not  that  we  wished 
to  limit   any  one  of  the   passengers  in   the  number  of  legs 
used,  but  then  his  head-dress  was  "positively  shocking,"  and 
might  put  us  to  great  inconvenience  in  a  case  of  emergency. 
Our  first  impulse  was  to  show  him  the  depth  of  water  on  our 
larboard  quarter,  but  then  he  seemed  quiet,  and  as  he  was  en- 
gaged to  appear  at  the  table  of  nobility  at  San  Juan,  we  resolved 
to  submit  to  the  inconvenience,  and  let  him  ride.     We  soon 
slipped  our  cables,  and  were  under  way  in  the  direction  of  San 
Carlos.     Nothing  can  exceed  the  magnificence  and  beauty  of 
the  scene  that  now  surrounds  us.     Mountains  are  climbing  one 
above  the  other,  until  the  last  is  lost  in  the  clouds  ;  the  lake  is 
studded  with  islands,  some  reposing  modestly  in  her  bosom, 
others  rearing  their  heads  as  if  trying  to  vie  with  the  surround- 
ing mountains.     Now  night  throws  her  sable  mantle  over  the 
scene,  and  all  is  hushed  as  death;  the  surrounding  volcanos 
light  their  watch  fires,  and  loom  up  in  the  most  terrific  grandeur. 
In  the  morning  our  boatmen  rose  up  from  their  seats,  and,  in  a 
wild  strain,  chanted  a  hymn  of  praise  to  God  for  protection  to 
themselves  and  "  los  Americanos." 

In  the  course  of  the  morning  we  passed  in  sight  of  a  town,  which. 

was' situated  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  at  a  great  elevation, 

presenting  a  most  picturesque  appearance.     We  also  saw  miners 

at  work  in  the  gold  mines,  on  the  side  of  the  mountain.    As  we 

11 


162  CALIFOBNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

drew  near  San  Carlos,  we  saw  several  volcanos  rising,  in  pyra- 
midal form,  from  tlie  bosom  of  the  lake ;  one,  that  of  Omote- 
peque,  towering  up  to  the  height  of  six  thousand  feet.  (See 
Plate.) 

On  our  arrival  at  San  Carlos  we  were  required  to  submit  to 
custom-house  regulations,  the  officer  insisting  upon  searching 
our  trunks.  To  this  we  demurred,  having  passed  through  the 
entire  country  without  submitting  to  such  an  ordeal.  The 
officer  seeming  anxious  to  compromise  the  matter,  demanded 
$5  in  stead  from  each  ;  the  Americans  who  had  preceded  us 
submitted  to  this  extortion,  but  we  were  determined  to  resist. 
The  officer  became  more  moderate,  coming  down — down — down 
■ — to  a  real ;  upon  our  refusing  to  pay  this,  he  made  a  move 
in  the  direction  of  the  cannon  which  was  near ;  we,  however, 
were  first  to  possess  it,  and  things  for  the  moment  wore  a  war- 
like appearance.  The  officer,  not  wishing  to  bring  things  to  a 
crisis,  held  a  consultation  with  our  "  Padrone,"  and  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  all  was  right,  that  as  we  were  Americans  he 
would  treat  us  with  due  consideration.  At  the  left,  in  the  Plate, 
is  seen  the  residence  of  this  worthy  officer,  behind  which  is  the 
village  of  San  Carlos. 


--if^ 


i£»-; 


PASSAGE  DOWN  THE  SAN  JUAN  RIVER— CASrtLIAN  RAPIDS— THE  "  DIRECTOR"— ARRIVAL 
AT  SAN  JUAN — BOARDED  BY  A  POSSE  OF  NEGROES — BRITISH  PROTECTORATE — PHILAN- 
THROPY OF  GREAT  BRITAIN — HER  MAGNANIMOUS  AND  DISINTERESTED  CONDUCT  TOWARDS 
THE  NATIONS  OF  THE  EARTH — NICARAGUA  GRACIOUSLY  REMEMBERED — A  HUNT  FOR  A 
SOVEREIGN— A  FULL-GROWN  KING  DISCOVERED— HIS  DIPLOMACY— INVINCIBILITY — 
AMUSEMENTS  AND  CORONATION — HIS  FIRST  PAIR  OP  PANTALOONS — HAIL  "  KING  OP 
THE  MUSQUITO  COAST"  !!!— ALL  HAIL  JAMACA  I.  !!!— "HEAR!   HEAr!!!" 

We  were  soon  on  board,  and  passing  aronnd  a  point,  were  float- 
ing down  the  San  Juan  river  at  the  rate  of  five  knots.  After 
a  two  hour's  run  our  boatmen  unshipped  their  oars,  and  com- 
menced gambling ;  we  were  borne  along  bj  the  current,  at  the 
rate  of  two  miles  an  hour,  until  toward  evening,  when  the  oars 
were  again  manned.  At  nine  in  the  evening,  the  roar  of  the 
water  admonished  us  that  we  were  approaching  the  Castilian 
rapids,  and  we  came  to  anchor.  The  natives  have  a  dread  of 
this  rapid,  and  in  passing  it  feel  that  their  lives  are  in  imminent 
peril ;  in  this  case,  however,  a  party  of  boatmen  forgetting 
themselves  in  sleep,  passed  over,  and  in  the  morning  found 
themselves  entangled  in  the  bushes,  along  the  margin  of  the 
river.  We  descended  the  rapid,  finding  the  steamboat  "  Direc- 
tor," in  the  act  of  ascending ;  she  was  making  her  first  passage 
up,  preparatory  to  taking  her  place  on  the  lake  for  the  trans- 
portation of  passengers,  in  connection  with  Yanderbilt's  Line  of 
steamships.  The  passage  up  the  rapid  was  very  difficult, 
owing  to  the  strong  current,  being  about  six  knots  ;  she  however 
succeeded,  and  is  now  plying  on  the  lake.  We  passed  down, 
and  at  two  the  next  morning  came  to  anchor  in  the  harbor  of 
San  Juan. 

At  an  early  hour  in  the  morning  we  were  boarded  by  a  posse 
of  negroes,  whose  mission  it  was  to  search  our  baggage  for  fire- 
arms ;  they  succeeded  in  finding  two  rusty  guns  belonging  to 
our  padrone,  which  they  carried  off  in  triumph.    It  is  well 


164  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

known  tliat  tliis  harbor  is  under  the  protectorate  of  Great 
Britain,  and  our  worthy  visitors  w^ere  subjects  of  Her  Majesty, 
as  well  as  of  His  Majesty  of  the  "Mosquito  Coast."  They 
seem  in  fear  of  an  army  from  Grenada,  hence  this  precaution. 

The  town  consists  of  about  fifty  thatched  houses,  tenanted 
by  French,  English,  German,  Spanish,  and  XegToes.  Things 
here  are,  in  a  measure,  reverso;  a  negro  is  agent  for  Great 
Britain — his  boots  are  blacked  by  a  w^hite  man.  We  found  a 
British  man-of-war  in  port,  which  is  kept  here  to  enforce  their 
wholesome  regulations. 

The  philanthropy  of  Great  Britain  has  become  proverbiaL 
There  is  scarcely  a  port  on  the  European  continent  that  has  not 
heard  the  music  of  her  cannon,  and  been  reheved  of  its  surplus 
treasures.  Three-fourths  of  a  century  ago,  she  succeeded  in 
establishing,  on  the  American  continent,  the  government  of  the 
United  States,  and  a  few  years  thereafter  voluntarily  offered 
the  u^e  of  a  fleet  and  army  at  Xew  Orleans,  a  part  of  w^hich 
was  used,  the  balance  returned.  Mexico  has  also  been  a  recipi- 
ent of  her  kind  attentions.  She  has  taken  possession  of  the 
richest  mines  in  Mexico,  and  worked  them  gratuitously,  sending 
off  millions  under  the  protection  of  the  "red  cross  of  St. 
George."  Her  sappers  and  miners  have  found  their  way  to 
Peru  and  Chili,  as  well  as  other  divisions  on  the  Pacific  coast 
of  South  America,  the  mines  of  all  of  w^hich  have  been  taken 
possession  of,  and  worked  on  the  same  acconwiodating  terms  as 
those  of  Mexico.  She  sent  a  fleet //-ee  of  charge  to  the  Argen- 
tine Eepublic,  took  possession  of  her  ports,  smd  forced  the  navi- 
gation of  her  rivers.  Texas,  after  emerging  from  her  glorious 
struggle  for  liberty,  was  offered  the  kind  wing  of  protection ; 
Great  Britain  even  going  so  far  as  to  offer  her  assistance  in 
maintaining  a  separate  republic,  thinking  annexation  to  the 
United  States  inexpedient.  She  visited  China  in  the  capacity 
of  doctor,  and  most  magnanimously  forced  her  prescription 
down  their  unwilling  throats.  Her  philanthropic  eye  next  took 
a  survey  of  Central  America.  Here  she  found  governments 
of  that  odious  form  called  republican,  that  of  Nicaragua  having 
an  extent  of  sea  coast,  with  accessible  ports,  and  numerous 
rivers. 

No  one,  up  to  this  time,  had  interfered  with  the  jurisdiction 


A  HUNT  FOR  A  SOVEREIGN.  166 

of  NicaragTia,  nor  was  her  claim  to  this  coast  ever  disputed. 
Great  Britain,  in  her  superior  wisdom,  however,  decided  that 
as  Nicaragua  had  no  particular  use  for  seaports,  they  would  be 
better  in  other  hands,  even  if  she  herself  should  be  compelled  to 
assume  the  protectorate.  The  first  step  necessary  to  accomplish 
this  magnanimous  object  was  to  find  a  suitable  sovereign.  She 
is  supposed  to  have  embarked  in  the  search  with  her  character- 
istic zeal  and  energy ;  it  is  presumed  that  the  first  inquiries 
were  made  at  San  Juan.  At  first  the  prospect  of  success  was 
not  flattering,  but  fortunately  inquiries  were  made  of  a  native 
Indian,  who  very  innocently  informed  Her  Britannic  Majesty's 
agent  that  his  chief  was  sojourning  along  the  "  Mosquito  Coast." 

What  could  have  been  more  opportune  ?  This  was  precisely 
the  individual  sought ;  here  was  a  great  man,  a  chief,  in  actual 
possession  of  the  country,  i.  e.,  he  had  actually  hunted  'possums 
there  for  a  period  of  six  months !  The  matter  was  immediately 
decided  upon,  and  arrangements  made  to  pay  the  monarch  a 
visit  on  the  following  day,  preparatory  to  his  coronation.  Arti- 
zans  were  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  presents  suitable  for 
one  who  seemed  pointed  oat  by  the  finger  of  Providence  to 
wear  the  "  purple  and  ermine."  Tin  pans  were  immediately 
transformed  into  crowns  and  collars,  sardine  boxes  into  breast- 
plates and  stars,  pill-boxes  into  ear  and  finger-rings,  and  "extin- 
guishers" into  ornaments  for  the  nose.  These,  after  a  revision 
hj  chamois  and  soap-stone,  were  safely  boxed,  that  they  might 
not  be  tarnished  by  the  touch  of  vulgar  hands.  A  demijohn 
was  filled  with  rum — as  was  supposed,  to  prevent  his  Majesty 
from  fainting  under  the  operation  of  putting  on  his  first  pair  of 
pantaloons. 

Early  on  the  following  morning,  the  ship  having  been  ordered 
to  drop  along  down  the  coast,  the  party  were  in  motion  under 
the  pilotage  of  the  Indian  above  mentioned.  What  momentous 
results  sometimes  attend  the  acts  of  individuals  in  the  humble 
walks  of  life !  This  poor  Indian,  having  been  driven  to  the 
shore  by  hunger,  had,  while  making  a  meal  of  raw  fish,  imparted 
a  word,  which  single  word  was  the  means  of  bringing  forth  to 
the  world  a  full-grown  king.  What  v/ere  the  feelings  of  this 
native,  as  he  cut  his  way  through  the  chaparrals  ?  Had  he 
aspirations  ?     No  doubt  he  had !     In  his  wild  delirium  of  plea- 


166  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

sure,  lie,  no  doubt,  dreamed  of  a  canoe  of  his  own,  and  a  raw 
hide  to  sleep  on ;  instead  of  going  naked,  as  lie  had  done  all 
liis  life,  lie  might  have  a  red  bandana  to  tie  around  his  neck; 
he  thought  of  abundance  of  broiled  lizard,  with  plantain  cooked 
in  'possum  fat  for  dessert.  T^ith  such  bright  visions  in  the  fu- 
ture, it  is  not  astonishing  that,  in  wading  swamps  and  cutting 
through  chaparrals,  he  distanced  those  under  his  pilotage. 

Xor  was  there  a  want  of  zeal  on  the  part  of  Her  Britannic 
Majesty's  agent.  He  too  had  aspirations.  He  was  on  a  mission 
which,  if  successful,  must  result  in  incalculable  benefit  to  the 
world  in  general,  and  to  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  government  in 
particular.  If  successful,  knighthood  was  the  least  he  could 
expect,  with  the  prospect  of  a  niche,  eventually,  in  Westminster 
Abbey. 

Never  were  mortals  more  eager  for  immortality,  nor  was  it 
ever  more  clearly  within  their  reach ;  for  even  now,  at  this 
point  in  the  drama,  the  very  dogs  of  his  Majesty  seemed  to 
proclaim  it — the  royal  encampment  was  in  sight.  The  party 
deployed  into  a  single  file,  and  prepared  to  approach  the  'presence. 
They  took  the  monarch  by  surprise ;  he  was  stretched  out  at 
full  length,  on  a  "highly-scented"  raw  hide,  under  the  shade 
of  a  palm-tree,  as  naked  as  he  came  into  the  world.  He  was 
amusing  himself  by  trying  to  "get  up"  a  fight  between  a  parrot 
and  a  young  monkey ;  his  squaw  was  broiling  a  couple  of  lizards 
or  guanas^  and  roasting  plantains  for  dinner. 

The  interview  was  at  first  embarrassing,  but  after  consulting 
the  demijohn,  they  seemed  imbued  with  a  more  fraternizing 
spirit,  and  commenced  conversation  on  the  subject  of  empire, 
and  the  prerogative  of  kings.  Her  Britannic  Majesty's  agent 
felt  himself  a  man  of  importance,  and  at  first  seemed  somewhat 
patronizing;  but  the  monarch  had  consulted  the  demijohn  too 
often  to  be  outdone,  and,  as  a  proof  of  his  invincibility,  he  ex- 
hibited a  huge  turtle,  which  had  fallen  a  victim  to  his  machet; 
he  had  climbed  a  tree  that  none  of  his  men  could  climb,  and 
caught  sixteen  "'possums,"  all  hanging  by  the  same  tail  from 
the  same  hmb ;  he  had  taken  his  biggest  dog  by  the  tail,  and 
swung  him  around  his  head  three  times,  and  declared  he  would 
do  it  again  for  their  amusement.  "  Carlo"  was  immediately 
seized  by  the  tail,  but  feeling  a  little  sensitive,  he  curled  up,  bit 


# 


i^^^f 


,    r^ 


,^v  '    f^'^ 


im  t 


Clraiitn  CtDJtitii-ngljtli. 


SAIL  FOB  HOME— PASS  THE  "GOLDEN  GATE,"— SAD  CONDITION  OF  THE  PASRENGEBS— 
GBAVES  AT  THE  BASE  OF  THE  SNOWY  MOUNTAINS— LAND  RECEDES— LUXUBIES  ON  BOABD 
— A  DEATH  AND  BUEIAL — ANOTHEB  DEATH — "WHALES  AND  P0BP0ISE3  VeVSUS  SEBPENTS 
OF  FIBE — THUNDEB  STOBM — DEATH  OP  DOCTOR  BEED — THBEE  DEAD  BODIES  FOUND  ON 
BOARD— THE  SCUBVY— FIVE  OF  THE  PASSENGEES  INSANE— EVILS  OF  THE  CBEDIT  SYS- 
TEM—A CULTIVATED  MIND  DERANGED— MEMORY  LOST— ITS  CAUSE— THE  VICTIM  UPON 
THE  VERGE  OP  DEATH — HARPOONING  PORPOISES — EXCITING  SPORT. 

I  HAD  designed  to  leave  San  Francisco  for  home  in  the  steam- 
er of  the  1st  December,  and  had  purchased  my  ticket  with  that 
view ;  but  the  steamer,  being  a  foreign  bottom,  was  unable  to 
clear  for  another  port  in  California,  and  having  but  small  capacity 
for  coal,  I  feared  detention,  and  was  induced  to  sell  my  ticket, 
and  take  passage  in  the  ship  Edward  Everett,  which  was  to  sail 
on  the  28th  November,  and  which,  I  felt  confident,  would  reach 
Panama  in  advance  of  the  steamer.  We  were  notified  to  be  on 
board  at  9  a.m  ;  and  when  Mr.  Fairchild  and  myself  reached 
the  shore  with  our  baggage,  we  saw  the  ship  two  miles  out  just 
preparing  to  swing  from  her  moorings.  We  engaged  two  hardy 
*'tars,"  and  were  soon  pulling  off  for  her ;  we  threaded  our  way 
through  the  shipping,  and  were  doing  our  utmost  as  we  saw 
the  anchor  of  the  Everett  already  up,  her  foresail  aback,  and 
she  "turning  on  her  heel,"  preparatory  to  standing  out  to  sea. 
We  boarded  her  as  she  was  under  way.  We  passed  the  clipper- 
ship  Architect,  which  was  just  weighing  anchor  for  Valparaiso; 
the  captains  saluted  each  other  through  their  trumpets,  and  we 
passed  on  through  the  Golden  Gate,  with  a  fair  breeze,  assisted 
by  the  unerring  ebb  tide.  The  passengers,  eighty  in  number, 
were  all  on  deck  to  take  a  last  look  at  the  receding  landscape. 

It  had  been  but  a  few  short  days  since  they  first  beheld  this 
scene — since  they  first  entered  through  this  "  Gate,"  into  the 
land  of  promise.     They  now  look  upon  the  same  narrow  passage, 


170  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

the  same  bold  rocky  coast,  they  had  looked  for  with  so  much 
anxiety,  and  greeted  with  so  much  enthusiasm.  But  how  dif- 
ferent the  feelings  now !  what  a  change  !  They  were  then  accom- 
panied by  a  brother  or  a  friend,  with  high  hopes  and  vigorous 
constitutions,  looking  forward  with  brilliant  anticipations.  But 
now  the  brother  and  friend  are  sleeping  quietly  at  the  base  of 
yonder  snow-capped  mountain,  and  they  are  bearing  the  sad  in- 
telligence to  the  bereaved  parents,  brothers,  and  sisters.  Instead 
of  the  vigorous  constitutions,  they  are  obliged  to  cling  to  the  rig- 
ing  for  support,  while  they  gaze  for  the  last  time  upon  the  scene. 
With  many  it  is  the  last  time  they  are  to  view  such  a  scene  ;  their 
eyes  are  about  to  close  upon  the  earth  forever,  to  sleep  beneath 
the  bosom  of  the  ocean.  Many  have  not  only  sacrificed  health, 
but  are  destitute  of  means,  and  are  now  reeling  about  the  ship, 
endeavoring  to  earn  their  passage  by  their  labor.  Our  ship 
seemed  a  hospital ;  three-fourths  of  all  the  passengers  were 
invalids,  some  of  them  helpless.  "We  drifted  away  before  the 
wind,  the  mountains  gradually  disappearing  from  the  horizon ; 
one  had  lingered  long,  but  as  we  descended  from  the  crest  of  a 
mountain  wave,  we  bid  it  also,  a  last  farewell.  We  spent  the 
afternoon  in  adjusting  our  baggage,  and  the  night  in  sleep  ;  the 
morning  dawned  brightly — we  were  still  under  a  full  press  of 
canvas,  with  a  fair  wind.  All  oil  board  had  taken  passage 
under  the  impression  that  the  accommodations  were  superior, 
for  which  they  had  paid  extra.  We  consequently  felt  that  we 
were  well  provided  for,  and  fairly  embarked  on  our  voyage 
home.  As  usual  the  first  day  at  sea,  but  little  attention  was 
paid  to  the  cook,  the  passengers  remaining  cozily  ensconced  in 
their  berths. 

The  30th  was  ushered  in  with  a  fine  breeze,  and  we  were 
standing  on  our  course.  At  noon  we  found  the  table  supplied 
with  hard  bread  (sea-biscuit)  and  salt  beef,  dainties  that  our 
stomachs  did  not  relish  ;  the  same  table  was  kept  standing  for 
supper.  Captain  Smith  was  interrogated  in  reference  to  his 
supply  of  provisions,  for  which  we  had  paid  him  extra ;  he  re- 
plied that  he  was  abundantly  supplied  with  the  above,  which, 
if  we  chose,  we  could  have  served  up  every  day  during  the 
voyage  ;  when  too  late,  we  learned  that  the  delicacies  for  the 
sick,  with  which  he  had  by  public  notice  proclaimed  his  ship 


DEATH  AND  BUEIAL  AT  SEA.  171 

abundantly  supplied,  were  "  non  est^  He  had  not  even  a  pound 
of  fruit  on  board ;  the  invalids  felt  this  privation  most  sensibly 
many  of  whom  had  come  on  board  without  supplies,  having 
been  led  to  believe  by  advertisements,  that  the  ship  had  been  fur- 
nished with  a  direct  view  to  the  comforts  of  those  returning  in 
ill-health.  From  the  fare  with  which  our  table  was  supplied,  it 
was  impossible  for  a  weak  stomach  to  extract  suf&cient  nutri- 
ment to  sustain  life.  This  was  soon  manifest,  as  those  who  were 
destitute  immediately  commenced  to  decline,  and  were  soon 
confined  to  their  berths.  We  could  plainly  see  that  the  lives 
of  some  were  fast  ebbing  away. 

On  the  6th  December,  in  lat,  22°  50',  North,  it  was  announced 
that  G.  W.  Eay,  of  Maine,  was  dead.  He  died  at  10  a.m  ;  the 
gang-plank  was  placed,  one  end  extending  over  the  side  of  the 
ship,  supported  by  the  rail,  the  other  supported  by  a  cask,  over 
this  was  thrown  a  piece  of  canvas,  upon  which  was  placed  the 
corpse.  A  rope  was  tied  around  the  body ;  thence,  passing  down 
was  tied  around  the  ancles,  and  to  the  end  was  attached  a  can- 
vas bag,  filled  with  sand.  The  body  was  then  sewed  up  in  the 
canvas,  over  which  was  thrown  the  ensign  of  California.  The 
passengers  now  surround  the  corpse,  with  heads  uncovered.  A 
prayer  is  read  by  the  captain,  the  ensign  is  removed,  and  at 
the  word  one  end  of  the  plank  is  raised,  and  the  body  passes 
gently  into  its  grave.  We  are  under  a  full  press  of  canvas 
with  an  eight  knot  breeze ;  the  last  bubble  rises  to  the  surface, 
and  the  wind  passes  mournfully  through  the  shrouds,  as  if  sigh- 
ing his  last  requiem. 

At  8  P.M.,  of  the  same  day,  another  death  was  announced. 
Deceased,  Mr.  Cook,  was  a  young  man  from  Sag  Harbor,  where 
he  left  a  wife  and  child.  One  hour  after  the  announcement  of 
his  death,  he  was  consigned  to  the  grave,  that  had  so  recently 
opened  to  receive  his  unfortunate  companion.  He  was  buried 
in  Lat.  20°  50',  K 

We  were  surrounded  during  the  day  (7th)  by  whales  and  por- 
poises, and  during  the  evening,  as  they  would  pass  through  the 
"luminous  animalculaB,"  they  would  present  the  appearance  of 
enormous  serpents  of  fire.  On  the  8th  we  were  visited  by  a 
terrific  thunder  storm,  accompanied  by  heavy  winds.  We  run 
under  close-reefed  topsails ;  and  when  the  storm  clears  up  we 


172  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

find  the  wind  dead  ahead,  and  are  obliged  to  run  several  days 
sharp  on  the  wind. 

On  the  morning  of  the  l-ith  another  death  was  announced  ; 
the  deceased,  Dr.  Eeed,  of  Massachusetts,  had  been,  for  some 
days,  conscious  of  his  approaching  end,  and  manifested  a  strong 
desire  to  have  his  remains  conveyed  to  his  friends.  This  was 
his  last  and  almost  only  request ;  the  fear  that  this  might  not 
be  complied  with  seemed  to  linger  with  him  to  the  last,  and 
died  only  with  his  last  pulsation.  He  received  some  encour- 
agement from  the  captain,  but  one  short  hour  after  his  death, 
he  followed  his  unfortunate  companions  to  the  grave.  He  was 
buried  in  Lat  16°  8'  K 

A  report  is  in  circulation  that  there  are  dead  bodies  on  board. 
On  inquiry,  we  learn  that  there  are  three — a  man,  a  woman  and 
child ;  they  were  preserved  in  casks  of  spirits,  and  being  con- 
veyed to  the  States.  This  created  the  greatest  consternation  in 
the  minds  of  the  sailors,  and  they  unanimously  resolved  to  leave 
the  ship  at  the  first  port.  They  have  a  superstitious  idea  that 
vessels  cannot  be  safely  navigated  with  dead  bodies  on  board. 
Many  of  the  passengers  were  confined  to  their  berths,  some  of 
them  destined  never  again  to  leave  them,  until  removed  by 
death.  The  scurvy  had  appeared  in  its  worst  form,  and  there 
was  nothing  on  board  to  relieve  its  victims.  The  food  served 
out  was  most  execrable;  those  in  robust  health  were  pining 
away,  and  for  the  invalids,  there  was  no  hope.  Among  the  latter 
there  were  five  who  were  deranged ;  they  were  all  confined  to 
their  berths,  and  seemed  waiting  to  be  relieved  by  death.  There 
is  a  physician  on  board,  (whose  fiither  and  captain  Smith  are 
sole  owners  of  the  ship),  his  services,  however,  are  not  at  the 
disposition  of  all.  The  captain  has  flour,  but  pretends  it  does 
not  belong  to  the  ship,  and  refuses  to  serve  it  out  to  the  passen- 
gers. He,  however,  offered  to  sell  it,  and  two  or  three  of  us 
joined  and  bought  a  quantity  of  him,  together  with  a  quantity 
of  sugar ;  all  to  be  paid  for  in  Panama,  at  Panama  prices,  and 
for  all  of  which  we  never  had  the  most  distant  idea  of  paying  him 
a  farthing.  We  hired  the  cook  to  prepare  it  for  us,  and  thereaf- 
ter were  well  served.  With  this  supply,  we  were  in  a  condi- 
tion to  invite  the  invalids  to  our  table,  where  we  could  furnish 
them  something  more  palatable  than  sea-biscuit  and  salt  beef. 


A  CULTIYATED   MIND  DERANGED.  173 

My  attention  was  attracted  to  one  of  the  passengers,  who, 
upon  my  inquiring  for  Spanish  books,  offered  me  one  of  Spanish 
comedy ;  there  was  something  polished  in  his  manners,  yet 
something  wayward,  which  very  much  excited  my  interest.  His 
clothes  were  good,  still,  in  his  helplessness,  they  had  become 
extremely  filthy.  He  commenced  conversation,  but  soon  stopped 
for  a  moment,  as  if  trying  to  recollect  himself;  and  said  he  be- 
lieved he  had  entirely  lost  his  mind,  that  his  ideas  were  so 
incoherent,  he  feared  he  could  not  make  himself  understood.  He 
first  inquired  where  the  ship  was  bound ;  I  informed  him,  and 
asked  him  how  he  came  on  board.  He  did  not  know,  but  said 
he  was  informed  that  he  was  to  be  sent  home  ;  he  did  not  know 
why,  nor  from  whom  he  received  the  information.  He  wished 
me  to  converse  with  him,  and  try  to  set  him  right ;  he  gave  me 
the  keys  to  his  trunks,  and  wished  me  to  open  them.  I  found 
them  stored  with  clothing  of  the  best  quality,  together  with  a 
well  selected  library  of  books,  mathematical  instruments,  and 
materials  for  drawing :  everything  indicating  a  man  of  refine- 
ment and  education.  In  his  writing  desk  I  found  a  patriotic 
poem,  composed  and  read  by  him,  on  board  the  ship  in  which 
he  sailed  for  California :  on  the  anniversary  of  our  national 
independence.  I  also  found  a  daguerreotype  ;  the  sight  of  this 
seemed  to  awaken  pleasing  emotions.  It  contained  the  portraits 
of  a  lady  and  child ;  these  he  recognized  as  his  wife  and  Httle  daugh- 
ter. By  the  sight  of  these,  he  was  at  first  overcome ;  his  wife 
appeared  natural  to  him,  but  he  had  not  the  most  distant  idea  of 
the  age  of  his  little  daughter ;  he  wondered  if  it  was  of  a  suffi- 
cient age,  when  he  left  home,  to  call  him  father,  and  whether  it 
would  remember  and  greet  him  when  he  returned.  He  now 
realized,  most  painfully,  the  gloom  that  hung  like  a  pall  over 
his  memory.  The  sight  of  the  articles  as  I  would  take  them  out, 
seemed  to  call  up  others,  by  association.  The  sight  of  rifle  and 
pistol-balls  reminded  him  that  he  had,  somewhere,  a  rifle  and 
revolver,  where,  he  did  not  know.  I  requested  him  to  run  back 
in  his  memory,  if  possible,  to  the  time  when  he  first  became  de- 
ranged. He  said  that  he  was  attacked  with  the  fever  at  Beni- 
cia,  and  carried  on  board  a  ship  that  was  then  lying  at  anchor. 
There  were  several  sick  on  board,  and  during  his  sickness,  one 
was  brought  and  placed  on  a  table  in  front  of  his  berth.     He 


174  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

watched  him  day  after  day,  until  one  night,  as  the  light  fell 
dimly  on  his  pallid  features,  a  slight  convulsion  passed  over  him, 
and  his  jaw  fell.  This  closed  the  scene  ;  from  this  moment  his 
mind  had  been»wandering  in  the  dark  labyrinths  of  forgetfulness. 
The  fever  had  left  him,  and  given  place  to  that  dreaded  malady, 
the  scurvy,  with  which  he  had  now  become  reduced  almost  to 
helplessness.  His  feet  and  limbs  were  swollen  to  double  their 
usual  size,  their  purple  hue  denoting  the  fearful  state  to  which 
his  system  was  reduced.  The  name  of  this  unfortunate  man  was 
E.  W.  Clark,  Jr.,  of  West  Boylston,  Mass.  He  gave  me  his 
name,  and  the  address  of  his  friends,  at  a  time  when  he  had  but 
little  hope  of  ever  seeing  them,  with  the  request  that  I  should 
write  them  the  particulars  of  his  death. 

On  the  16th,  we  were  surrounded  by  porpoises;  our  first 
matet  being  an  old  harpooner,  descended  into  the  martingale  of 
the  ship,  his  harpoon  being  attached  to  a  rope  which  passed 
through  a  tackle-block  above,  and  was  manned  by  about  thirty 
passengers.  At  the  first  plunge  of  the  ship,  he  "let  go"  the 
harpoon,  taking  effect  in  the  back  of  a  porpoise;  "haul  away," 
and  the  huge  monster  was  swinging  in  the  air.  This  was  a  mo- 
ment of  intense  excitement;  the  harpoon  had  passed  almost 
through  the  body,  but  in  hauling  him  from  the  water,  it  had 
drawn  out,  holding  only  to  a  half-inch  of  the  skin.  One  strug- 
gle and  he  would  have  been  released ;  but  the  auspicious  moment 
passed,  and  at  the  word  "  ease  away,"  he  was  safely  shijoped  on 
our  forecastle  deck.  His  struggles  now  were  fearful ;  his  throes 
causing  the  very  spars  to  tremble.  He  strikes  another  and 
another,  both  of  which  are  safely  drawn  on  board.  He  strikes  a 
fourth,  and  after  hauling  it  several  feet  from  the  water,  it  falls 
from  the  harpoon  and  rushes  through  the  water^  staining  its 
wake  with  blood.  We  are  now  well  supplied  with  fish,  but  of 
a  kind  not  calculated  to  tempt  the  appetite. 


Cjinptn  Cinntii-iiiiitlj. 


CLOUD  AND  CLIPPERTON  ISLANDS— WHALES,  SHARKS,  PORPOISES,  AND  DOLPHINS— A  SHAKE 
CAPTURED — SHARK  STEAK — "  CAUDLE  LECTURE  " — DEATH  OP  SAMUEL  B.  LEWIS — A 
CALM — FOOT  RACES  BY  THE  SHIP's  FURNITURE — PASSENGER  PECULIARITIES — SHORT  OF 
PROVISIONS—"  BOUT  SHIP  "—FIRST  OF  JANUARY— ."S  LUXURIES  AT  SEA — A  TAME  SEA- 
FOWL— A  PASSENGER  DYING— A  SHARK— A  DELIGHTFUL  EVENING  SCENE— A  DEATH — 
BURIAL  AT  SEA  BY  CANDLE  LIGHT— A  TURTLE  NAVIGATING  THE  CCEAN— HIS  SUSPICIOUS 
CONDUCT — A  WRITTEN  PROTEST  AGAINST  THE  CAPTAIN — COCUS  ISLAND — CAPTURING 
"BOOBIES." 

On  the  17tli,  we  passed  tinder  tlie  lea  of  Cloud  island — ^lat. 
19^,  long.  103^.  21st ;  passed  Clipperton  island,  lat.  11^,  long. 
103^.  The  air  is  filled  with  sea-fowl;  the  island  is  a  rocky 
pile,  having  the  appearance  of  a  dilapidated  castle ;  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  low  sandy  beach.  We  are  surrounded  by  whales, 
sharks,  porpoises  and  dolphins ;  our  first  mate  strikes  a  porpoise 
at  midnight,  and  it  is  hauled  on  deck  by  the  crew. 

On  the  22d,  the  mate  struck  a  shark  ;  it  was  hauled  on  deck, 
and  we  had  shark-steak  for  breakfast.  All  out  with  the  captain, 
and  the  lectures  he  receives  are  only  equalled  by  those  of  the 
amiable  '*Mrs.  Caudle."  He  finds  himself  wofully  in  the  minor- 
ity, and  confines  himself  to  his  state-room.  We  not  only  charge 
the  adverse  winds  to  his  account,  but  the  destitution  of  the  ship ; 
of  his  guilt  of  the  latter  charge,  the  jury  were  unanimous. 

24th.  The  death  of  Samuel  B.  Lewis  is  announced.  He  was 
buried  at  9  a.m.,  lat.  6^-12'  north.  He  was  from  Elmira,  N".  Y., 
where  he  leaves  a  widowed  mother  to  mourn  his  untimely  death. 
On  my  return,  I  learned  that  subsequent  to  his  starting  for  Cali- 
fornia, his  father  was  accidently  killed ;  the  mother  wrote  for 
her  son  ;  he  was  her  only  solace  ;  upon  him  she  leaned  for  con- 
solation ;  but  on  a  dreary  night,  as  the  wind  howled  mournfully 
without,  she  dreamed  her  son  returned,  and  as  she  was  about 
to  clasp  him  to  her  bosom,  lis  shrunk  from  her  sight  and  disap- 
peared forever. 


176  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

"We  have  a  calm  for  several  days  with  intense  heat ;  a  general 
restlessness  is  felt,  passengers  are  out  of  patience  ;  our  ship  has 
not  sufficient  headway  to  cause  her  to  mind  the  tiller ;  she  rolls 
about  like  a  log,  now  plunging,  throwing  her  sails  all  aback, 
now  rising  on  a  sea,  the  rigging  slackens,  the  spars  and  yards 
creak,  the  sails  again  fill,  and  everything  is  again  drawn  to  its 
utmost  tension ;  she  again  plunges,  reers,  and  rises  lengthwise 
of  a  sea;  she  careens  and  is  thrown  almost  upon  her  "beam- 
ends."  Trunks  change  sides,  tables  stand  on  their  heads,  barrels 
get  up  foot-races,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  the  passengers,  who, 
with  shins  in  hand,  enter  most  vehement  protests,  throwing  in 
an  occasional  oath  by  way  of  emphasis.  Jack  "yarns"  on  the 
forecastle,  Tom  has  out  a  shark-hook  ;  the  cook  has  been  mast- 
headed by  the  captain ;  T n  comes  down  from  the  shrouds  with 

a  sailors  oath  on  his  lips,  looks  at  his  boots  and  goes  up 
again;  Wright  exclaims,  "  certingly."  Palmly  looks  from  under 
his  quaker  hat,  and  swears  at  the  captain ;  the  Dutchman,  with 
red  whiskers,  opens  his  mouth,  which  very  much  resembles  a 
cavity  in  a  brick-kiln ;  he  looks  an  oath  in  Dutch,  but  don't 
speak.  To  calm  our  ruffled  passions  we  were  informed  that  we 
were  short  of  provisions,  and  were  to  be  put  upon  allowance. 

On  the  28th,  the  captain  gave  the  order,  "  bout  ship,"  and 
we  stood  in  for  the  main  land,  550  miles  distant,  lat.  6°,  long. 
96^.  On  the  29th,  a  fine  breeze  springs  up,  we  again  change 
our  course  and  stand  east,  in  the  direction  of  Panama. 

January  1st,  1850,  lat.  6^,  long.  9^ ;  heat  most  oppressive ; 
we  have  hard  fare  for  breakfast,  same  for  dinner  and  supper. 
Oh,  ye  knights  of  "Gotham!"  did  we  not  envy  you?  You, 
who  are  now  cloyed  with  luxuries  and  greeted  by  the  smiles  of 
friends,  but  little  dream  that  he  who,  twelve  months  ago,  was 
your  companion,  has  this  moment  dined  upon  sea-bread  that  has 
become  the  home  of  vermin,  and  beef  on  about  the  fourth  anni- 
versary of  its  salting,  boiled  in  ocean- water. 

A  small  bird  flies  on  board  in  an  exhausted  condition ;  it  is 
quite  tame  and  eats  food  from  our  hands.  Our  inquiries  in 
reference  to  its  home  and  destination,  were  in  vain ;  it  remained 
on  board  during  the  day,  and  seemed  to  appreciate  our  kindness. 

It  is  rumored  that  one  of  our  passengers  is  dying ;  a  shark  is 
at  this  moment  passing  under  the  bow  of  the  ship,  as  if  antici- 


A  WEITTEK  PEOTEST  AGAINST  THE   CAPTAIN.  177 

pating  his  prey.  4:tli,  rainy  morning ;  it  clears  up  at  one,  and 
we  have  a  most  delightful  evening ;  a  heavy  cloud  settles  around 
the  horizon,  leaving  us,  as  it  were,  in  a  lake  as  calm  as  a  mirror. 
I  never  witnessed  a  more  beautiful  scene  ;  I  am,  however,  in  no 
humor  to  enjoy  it.  This  is  our  thirty-eighth  day  out,  and  the 
prospects  most  discouraging ; .  I  am  over  due  at  home,  and  half 
the  journey  yet  to  be  performed. 

At  7  P.  M.  it  was  announced  that  Wm.  F.  Capron,  of  Pal- 
myra, N.  Y.,  was  dead ;  he  was  sewed  up  in  a  canvas  shroud, 
and  thirty  minutes  after  his  death,  with  lights  on  deck,  in  lati- 
tude 6°  34'  N".,  he  was  consigned  to  the  ocean. 

5th.  Delightful  morning,  with  fine  breeze.  We  saw  a  large 
turtle  floating  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  asleep ;  we  lowered 
a  boat,  and  pulled  off  for  him,  but  he  awoke,  and  suspecting 
our  movements,  applied  his  propellers  with  great  dexterity,  and 
diving  toward  the  bottom  he  was  soon  out  of  sight.  He  pro- 
bably hailed  from  Cocus  Island,  distant  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles ;  his  object  in  cruising  in  these  waters  we  were  unable  to 
learn.  It  being  Monday,  it  was  shrewdly  suspected  that  he  had 
been  out,  on  the  previous  night,  in  search  of  bright  eyes.  His 
being  asleep  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  his  apparent  embar- 
rassment on  being  discovered,  were  evidence  upon  which  almost 
any  jury  would  have  convicted  him. 

6th.  Calm,  heat  insupportable,  and  we  are  short  of  provisions. 
I  have  a  warm  conversation  with  the  captain,  and  draw  up  a 
protest,  have  it  signed  by  the  passengers,  designing  to  lay  it 
before  the  consul  at  Panama. 

PROTEST. 

We,  the  undersigned,  passengers  on  board  the  ship  Edward  Everett,  Capt. 
Henry  Smith,  do  hereby  most  solemnly  aver  that  ytq  were  induced  to  take 
passage  on  said  ship  by  representations  made  by  said  Capt.  Smith  and  his 
agents,  which  representations  were,  that  he  had  on  board  an  extra  supply  of 
ship-stores,  and  that  extra  provisions  had  been  made  for  the  comfort  of  pas- 
sengers. For  this  extra  provision  an  extra  charge  of  $100  in  the  first,  and 
$25  in  the  second  cabin,  had  been  made,  above  that  of  any  vessel  saihng 
from  the  same  port  for  the  same  destination,  during  the  present  season. 

The  above-named  Capt.  Smith,  through  public  advertisements  and  other- 
wisej  called  the  attention  of  invahds  particularly,  to  the  superior  arrange- 
ments made  for  their  comfort,  that  a  physician  would  be  in  attendance,  &c. 

Immediately  upon  getting  under  weigh  we  learned,  to  our  sorrow,  that  we- 
12 


178  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

had  been  grossly  deceived ;  that  the  above  representations  were  false.  Our 
provisions,  many  of  them,  were  damaged,  and,  we  were  credibly  informed, 
were  purchased  as  such  at  San  Francisco.  Of  some  of  the  articles  that  are 
indispensable  at  sea,  we  were  short,  and  immediately  put  upon  allowance. 

Some  of  the  passengers  had  made  arrangements  to  work  their  passage,  but 
upon  first  putting  to  sea  were  unable  to  do  duty.  The  Captain  called  upon 
them  in  person,  ordering  them  from  their  berths  and  on  duty,  threatening, 
in  case  of  non-compliance,  to  put  them  ashore  on  the  first  island.  Mr.  Saml. 
B.  Lewis,  of  Elmira,  JST.  Y.,  who  was  working  his  passage  as  under-steward, 
was  compelled  to  do  duty  when  unable,  and  finally  compelled  to  take  to  his 
berth,  from  which  he  never  arose.  Just  previous  to  his  death  he  manifested 
a  wish  to  see  the  Captain,  and  said,  "If  I  die  my  blood  will  be  upon  the 
Captain's  head." 

The  invahds,  being  compelled  to  five  on  the  coarse  fare  of  the  steerage, 
suffered  for  want  of  nourishing  food,  of  which  the  ship  was  entirely  destitute, 
there  not  being  a  particle  of  dried  fruit,  preserved  meats,  Avines,  or  any  one 
of  the  articles  thought  indispensably  necessary  on  ship-board. 

The  physician,  (whose  father  and  Captain  Smith  were  the  owners  of  the 
ship,)  paid  no  other  attention  to  the  sick  than  dealing  out  medicines,  which  he 
did  only  at  the  most  exorbitant  charges.  In  some  instances,  passengers,  after 
having  been  sick  for  days  without  nourishment,  were  obliged  to  buy  flour  of 
the  Captain  at  exorbitant  prices,  and  cook  with  their  own  hands  something 
to  sustain  Hfe. 

There  have  been  five  deaths  on  board,  during  the  voyage.  Wm.  F.  Capron, 
of  Palmyra,  N.  Y.,  we  do  most  solemnly  beheve  died  for  want  of  proper 
nourishment,  and  in  the  case  of  Wm.  B.  Lewis,  we  beheve  he  was  brought 
to  a  premature  death,  by  treatment  received  at  the  hands  of  the  Captain, 
together  with  the  want  of  proper  nourishment  after  his  prostration. 

Aside  from  the  above  unheard-of  conduct,  Capt.  Smith  went  to  sea  with- 
out a  single  life  or  quarter-boat,  consequently  entirely  unprepared  to  save  life 
in  case  of  accident,  showing  a  recklessness  of  human  life  in  the  highest  de- 
gree reprehensible,  which  should  not  be  passed  over  in  silence. 

We  regret  exceedingly  that  we  are  obhged  to  make  the  above  charges 
against  an  American  Captain,  a  class  of  men  so  justly  celebrated  for  philan- 
thropy and  kindness;  but  the  circumstances  under  which  we  are  placed 
leave  no  alternative;  and  we  hereby  most  respectfully  request  that  our 
Consul  at  Panama  will  immediately  enforce  the  law  in  this  case,  beheving 
that  a  few  pubhc  examples  will  put  an  end  to  the  abuse. 

At  Sea,  January  Qth,  1850,  lat.  6«^  K,  Ion.  92°  W.,  having  sailed  from  San 
Francisco,  28th  November,  1849. 

{Signed) 
RoBT.  N.  Tate,  First  Mate  of  Ship  Edward  Everett. 
J.  M.  Letts,  N.  Y.  W.  Cook,  Mo.  J.  J.  Starky,         Iowa. 

N.  N.  Rapelte,  "    Wm.  Tanner,  "    R.  H.  Caldwell,     Ohio. 

J.  R.  Thorne,  "    J.  ScoRBOuGH,  "    J.  K.  Turk,  " 

J.  H.  R.  Fairchild,     "    J.  H.  Hess,  "    D.  McCully,  Iowa. 


CAPTURING    "BOOBIES." 


179 


C.  L.  HOAG, 

N.  Y. 

B.  Swart, 

Mo. 

J.  M.  Richney, 

m 

J.  H.  MUMBY, 

li 

M.  Z.  SUZEE, 

u 

J.  Sharp, 

Ohio. 

A.  Riley, 

ii 

J.  Turner, 

(( 

L.  H.  McGee, 

u 

Geo.  N.  Seymour, 

u 

Z.  Redwin, 

a 

S.  Heath, 

Me. 

Jas.  Reed,  M.  D., 

u 

J.  Albright, 

u 

C.  B.  Castella, 

Ky. 

H.  Marks, 

11 

J.  L.  Simmons, 

u 

H.  S.  Shoudy, 

11 

S.  H.  Stevens, 

u 

S.  D.  Baldwin, 

(C 

Wm.  E.  Judd, 

Md. 

J.  F.  Allen, 

cc 

B.  Holt, 

(I 

RoBT.  Holland, 

Conn. 

J.  G-affney, 

N.J. 

J.  N.  York, 

u 

P.  P.  Berken, 

K  0. 

J.  Pierson, 

a 

J.  N.  Clauson, 

Mo. 

H.  Starkfleet, 

(( 

P.  D.  Elmendorf, 

(( 

J.  D.  MOTT, 

u 

J.  P.  Peterson, 

11 

G.  SiLLCOCKE, 

(( 

R.  N.  Sullivan, 

Mass. 

J.  B.  Hall, 

Pa. 

G.  A.  Barnes, 

Ind. 

J.  H.  Green, 

li 

J.  Williamson, 

(( 

J.  C.  CORWIN, 

Mo. 

J.  H.  Picket, 

li 

S.  Griffin, 

Ya. 

P.  MiNTON, 

u 

J.  R.  Poster, 

u 

7tli.  Pass  within  forty  miles  of  Cocus  Island. 

8tli.  Indication  of  land;  a  clond  of  "boobies"  surround  the 
ship,  lighting  on  the  spars  and  rigging ;  we  divert  ourselves  by 
tying  clubs  to  fishing  lines,  throwing  them  around  their  necks, 
and  hauling  them  in.  They  appeared  to  enter  into  the  sport 
with  as  much  zeal  as  ourselves,  for  upon  being  released  they 
would  fly  around,  and  seem  to  say,  *'  do  it  again." 


'i^ 


Cjinfttt  fijiittittji. 


INTENSE  HEAT — HTilAX  NATUKE  AS  EXHIBITED  BY  THE  PASSE>"GERS — DAXGEK,  NOT 
APPREHEXDED — A  TATTLER— A  "DUTCH  JUSTICE  "—"  LONG  TOM  COFFIN  "—A  QUAKES 
HAT — AN  INDIVIDUAL  RUNNING  WILD — HIS  OATHS,  DEPREDATIONS,  MUSICAL  ACCOM- 
PLISHMENTS, SHOTTMAN  PROPENSITIES,  AND  PUGILISTIC  DETELOPMENTS — "  BLUBBER," 
BUCKSKIN,  AND  "THE  LAST  RUN  OF  SHAD " — A  CAPSIZED  WHALE-BOAT — THRILLING 
SENSATION— HARPOON  USED— A  SHARK— "LAND  HO  !" — GULF  OF  PANAMA— SOUTH  AME- 
RICAN COAST — "  SAIL  ho!"' — DOLPHIN  FOR  DINNER — A  WHALE— A  TERRIFIC  GALE — OUR 
SAILS   AND    SPARS    CARRIED  AWAY. 

January  8tli.  Calm  with  intense  heat.  Our  ship  rolls  about 
at  the  mercy  of  the  sea,  the  spars  creaking,  and  the  sails  dis- 
playing as  little  ambition  as  if  they  designed  to  enfold  the  yards 
in  an  eternal  sleep.  This  example  of  tranquillity  was  but  illy 
followed  by  the  passengers ;  it  appeared  to  foment  their  pas- 
sions, bringing  the  evil  ones  to  the  surface.  Each  was  disposed 
to  demand  an  apology  from  his  neighbor  for  wrongs  either  real 
or  imaginary,  (mostly  of  the  latter;)  the  neighbor  declaiming, 
in  the  most  vehement  manner,  that  he  is  the  injured  party. 

"What  a  motley  group  !  what  an  exposition  of  the  dissimilarity 
of  human  nature  !  Here  are  my  friends  Fairchild  and  Seymour, 
all  they  should  be,  disposed  to  look  upon  the  brightest  side  of 
the  picture  ;  McGr.  offering  $100  for  the  strength  he  once  had ; 
''  he  would  whip  that  big  Englishman,"  the  Englishman,  at 
the  same  time,  swelling  and  blowing  about,  with  the  pomp  and 
glory  of  "  Old  England"  flitting  through  his  imagination,  quite 
ignorant  of  his  impending  danger.  Gates,  on  the  alert  for  news 
for  the  captain's  ear,  for  which  he  gets  an  occasional  cup  of 
coffee,  together  with  the  universal  detestation  of  the  passengers ; 
the  "Dutch  Justice"  strutting  about  with  all  the  pomp  of  brain- 
less vanity ;  the  professor,  learned  in  love,  law,  and  physic,  which 
comprises,  in  his  estimation,  all  that  can  be  learned  in  this  world  ; 
"Long  Tom  Coffin,"  the  very  "  beau  ideal  "  of  the  hero  himself, 


XN  INDIYIDUAL   EUNNING    WILD.  181 

stretched  out  on  the  quarter-deck,  very  much  resembling  a  pair 
of  oyster-tongs.  He  had  Blackstone  and  Kent  at  his  tongue's 
end,  and  swore  that,  on  his  arrival  in  Maine,  he  would  prepare  a 

"  brief"  for  the  captain's  especial  edification ;  P ^ly,  sitting 

under  a  quaker  hat,  as  forbidding  in  appearance  as  he  is  in  fact, 
damning  all  indiscriminately  who  differ  with  him  in  opinion. 

T n,  who  in  attempting  to  relate  an  occurrence  commences 

at  the  last  word,  throwing  the  balance  on  the  top  of  it,  in  the 
most  unintelligible  confusion.  He  is  about  twenty-one  years 
of  age,  has  been  well  brought  up,  with  a  good  education,  but  is 
now  running  wild.  He  blacks  his  boots  and  starts  for  the  mast- 
head ;  half-way  up  he  halts,  looks  at  his  boots,  suspects  that  they 
might  have  received  a  higher  polish,  and  with  a  repetition  of 
his  usual  oath,  comes  down  again.  He  discovers  some  one's 
can  of  preserved  meat ;  he  takes  it  to  the  cook,  and  soon  some 
one  is  invited  to  dine  with  him,  and  if  he  discovers  some  one\ 
bottle  of  wine,  some  one  is  almost  sure  to  get  one  glass  of  it. 
He  had  a  passion  for  music,  but  generally  sung  in  parodies,  as 
follows : 

I'm  sitting  on  a  stile,  Mary, 
Not  knowing  where  to  jump; 
My  foot  it  slipped,  I  caught  a  fall, 
And  struck  upon  a  stump, 

Ittee  bump,  ittee  bump,  ittee  bump. 

almost  indefinitely,  closing  up  with  a  constant  repetition  of  his 
usual  imprecations,  and  again  starting  for  the  mast-head ;  he 
would  probably  reach  the  first  yard,  when  a  new  idea,  and  he 
would  be  again  on  deck,  playing  superintendent  of  a  caravan, 
with  "  John,  take  that  little  monkey  from  his  mother,  or  he 
will  suck  her  to  death,  not  that  I  wish  to  disturb  the  animals  in 
their  innocent  amusements,  but  really  the  public  eye  must  be 
respected ;  music,  ting-a-ling,  ting-a-ling,  well,  well,  &c."  He 
is  now  interrupted  by  "Blubber,"  alias  "Livingston  &  Wells' 
Express ;"  a  short  quarrel,  and  they  square  off  for  a  fight. 
Blubber  is  backed  by  Buckskin,  alias  "  the  last  run  of  shad," 
and  they  don't  fight. 

We  have  a  steward  that  knows  his  place,  and  another  that  does 
not  deserve  one  on  this  earth ;  a  cook  who  has  not  been  accused 
of  washing  himself  during  the  voyage,  and  one  who  appears 
never  to  have  been  guilty  of  the  act.     A  negro  who  knows  his 


182  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTEATED. 

place  and  keeps  it,  a  wliite  man,  liis  neiglibor,  assuming  every- 
body's place  but  his  own ;  one  man  with  no  appetite,  another 
creating  a  famine  in  his  immediate  neighborhood ;  five  crazy 
men,  fifty  invahds,  a  penurious  doctor,  two  mates — Tate  and 
Barry — noblemen  of  nature's  own  make,  and  a  captain  who  was 
made  afterwards.  In  one  thing  only  were  we  unp^nimous,  which 
was  the  condemnation  of-  sailing  vessels  in  general,  and  the 
"  Everett "  in  particular,  including  her  captain. 

11th.  We  discover  something  near  the  horizon  resembling  a 
capsized  whale-boat.  This  causes  a  great  sensation  ;  the  first 
mate  mans  the  quarter-boat  and  pulls  off  for  the  object.  The 
passengers  watch  most  intently,  the  little  craft  as  it  rises  upon 
the  crest  of  a  mountain- wave,  and  now. disappearing,  again  rises 
to  our  view,  still  nearing  the  object  in  the  distance.  As  they 
approach  still  nearer,  through  the  ship's  glass,  we  see  fowls  ris- 
ing from  it,  and  now  the  mate,  standing  in  the  bow,  elevates  the 
harpoon,  as  if  to  strike.  A  large  sea-fowl  still  clings  to  the  ob- 
ject ;  as  they  approach  still  nearer,  it  flies.  The  mate  throws 
the  harpoon  and  soon  they  are  returning  to  the  ship.  They  pro- 
nounced the  object  a  pine-log.  They  have  a  Dolphin  and  sev- 
eral small  fish  ;  a  cry  of  shark,  and  a  large  one  passes  along  the 
weather  side,  four  are  following  astern,  accompanied  by  their 
pilots.     We  use  the  harpoon,  but  without  success. 

12th.  4  A.M.,  cry  of  "  land  ho !"  I  dress  and  go  on  deck ;  we 
are  in  sight  of  Points  Mala  and  Puerco,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
gulf  of  Panama,  100  miles  from  the  city.  A  steamer  is  just  pas- 
sing the  point  into  the  gulf;  a  strong  wind  is  blowing  off  the 
land,  and  west  and  in,  running  close  on  the  wind.  We  beat  all 
night,  and  in  the  morning  find  ourselves  in  the  same  position. 

13th.  Wind  still  dead  ahead  ;  after  standing  in  and  nearing  the 
South  American  coast,  we  put  about  on  the  other  tack;  the 
wind  soon  "  hauls,"  and  we  stand  directly  for  the  point  and  soon 
enter  the  mouth  of  the  gulf  At  4  p.m.,  mate  cries  out  from 
mast-head,  "  sail  ho !"  "  How  does  she  bear  ?"  "Two  points  off 
leeward  bow,  sir."  Delightful  sunset ;  a  school  of  porpoises  are 
tumbling  about  in  ecstasies. 

14th.  Pleasant  morning ;  we  are  just  off  the  inner  point.  A 
fine  breeze  blows  off,  our  ship  bows  to  the  impulse,  and  we  stand 
along  under  the  lee  of  the  land.     Cry  of  dolphin,  captain  strikes 


OUR  SAILS  AND  SPARS  CARRIED  AWAY.  183 

one  with  tlie  harpoon,  it  struggles  with  the  instrument,  disen- 
gages itself,  and  disappears  in  the  direction  of  the  bottom ;  he 
strikes  another,  it  is  hauled  safelj  on  board  and  served  up  for 
dinner.  A  whale  passes,  but  not  sufficiently  near  to  receive  our 
salutation.  4  p.m.,  it  blows  a  gale,  captain  cries  out,  "  clue  up 
the  top-gallantsail,"  "  aye,  aye,  sir.'"  During  the  night  we  have 
a  terrific  gale ;  it  carries  away  our  jib,  foretop-sail,  foretop-gal- 
lantsail,  maintop-staysail,  and  maintop-gallantsail. 

15th.  The  gale  still  continues  ;  we  are  driven  out  of  sight  of 
land,  but  arrive  in  sight  of  the  South  American  coast  at  3  p.m., 
the  Andes  towering  up,  hiding  themselves  in  the  clouds. 

16.  Strong  winds ;  we  are  about  sixty  miles  from  Panama, 
running  close  in  shore.  At  evening,  the  kind-hearted  inhabi- 
tants light  beacons  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain,,  to  guide  us 
during  the  night.  At  nine  we  put  about  on  the  other  tack,  and 
at  four  in  the  morning  were  within  ten  minutes  run  of  being 
aground. 


Cljajitn  Cljirtq-first. 


BAY  OF  PANAMA— ITS  BEAUTIES— TKOPICAL  FBOTS— THE  CITY  IN  SIGHT— EXCITEMENT 
ON  BOAKD — APPEARANCE  OF  THE  CITY  ;  HER  RUINS — PREPARATIONS  TO  DROP  ANCHOR 
— "  STAND  BY  " — "  LET  GO  THE  ANCHOR  " — FAREWELL  TO  THE  SICK — A  PERILOUS  RIDE 
ON  THE  BACK  OF  AN  INDIVIDUAL— ON  SHORE— FIRST  DINN^ER— NOTHING  LEFT— AN  IN- 
DITIDUAL  FEELING  COMFORTABLE — PANAMA  AMERICANIZED — A  MOONLIGHT  SCENE 
VIEWED  FROM  A  BRASS  "  FIFTY-SIX  " — A  DILAPIDATED  CONVENT,  AS  SEEN  AT  NIGHT 
— CHURCH  BELLS — BURNING  THE  DEAD — ^EXPOSURE  OF  THE  DESECRATED  REMAINS — SICK- 
ENES-G  AND  DISGUSTING  SIGHT— INFANTS  CAST  INTO  PITS — THE  RESCUE  OF  THEIR  SOULS 
REQUIRING  A  GIGANTIC  EFFORT  ON  THE  PART  OF  THE  CHURCH— A  HETACOMB — 
"  ETERNAL  LIGHT  "—IGNORANCE  OF   THE  MASS— PEERLESS   CHARACTERISTICS. 

ISth.  We  are  surrounded  by  islands ;  is  there  another  bay 
that  will  compare  with  this  ?  Certainly  I  never  imagined  any- 
thing so  like  a  fairy  scene.  We  are  in  the  midst  of  twenty  islands, 
all  covered  with  tropical  fruits  of  spontaneous  growth ;  the  or- 
ange, lime,  fig,  and  cocoa-nut  trees,  interlaced  with  the  grape, 
forming  shelter  for  the  inhabitants,  and  presenting  them  with 
food.  We  were  in  a  condition  to  appreciate,  most  fully,  the 
surrounding  scene.  Our  voyage,  which  had  now  lasted  fifty-one 
days,  was  commenced  under  adverse  circumstances ;  five  of  the 
passengers  had  already  died,  and  several  were  still  confined  to 
their  berths  with  scurvy,  some  of  them  destined  to  breathe  their 
last  on  board. 

4  P.M.  As  we  emerge  from  behind  a  small  island,  we  are  in 
full  view  of  Panama,  the  towers  of  her  cathedral  looming  up, 
and  her  dilapidated  wall  extending  along  the  water  line;  all  are 
now  in  a  phrensy  of  excitement ;  the  passengers  are  climbing 
into  the  rigging,  gazing  with  astonishment  upon  the  surrounding 
scene.  The  wind  blows  fresh  from  the  land,  and  we  are  obliged 
to  beat  up  directly  in  its  eye  ;  we  passed  near  Tobago  in  the  eve- 
ning, and  in  the  morning  were  near  our  anchorage.  We  run 
up  the  stars  and  stripes,  and  prepare  to  drop  anchor;  our  trunks 
are  in  readiness,  and  we  expect  soon  to  be  transferred  to  the 
shore. 


PANAMA — ON  SHOEE.  185 

The  city,  nestling  cosily  at  tlie  base  of  Cerro  Lancon,  looks 
encLantingly,  her  towers  and  domes  being  lighted  up  by  the 
morning  sun.  Her  dilapidated  monasteries  are  also  seen,  and 
her  extended  wall,  the  base  of  which  is  washed  by  the  gentle 
surf.  That  distant  tower,  shrouded  in  ivy,  dripping  with  the 
morning  dew,  seems  weeping  over  the  tomb  of  a  departed  city. 
Everything  conspired  to  awaken  emotions  of  the  most  romantic 
character.  Our  captain  mounts  the  quarter  deck  and  cries  out, 
"all  hands  on  deck  to  work  ship."  "Aye  aye,  sir."  "Clue  up  the 
mainsail"  "hard  a-lee,"  "  main-topsail,  haul;"  "haul  taut  the 
weather  main-braces  ;"  the  ship  comes  about  on  the  other  tack. 
A  boat  nears  us,  "  Stand  by  to  throw  a  rope,*"  a  man  comes  on 
board ;  "bout  ship,"  "  stand  by  the  anchor,"  "haul  down  the  jib ;" 
mate  heaves  the  lead  and  cries  out,  "four  fathom  o'  the  deep 
ho !"  "  fore  and  main-sail,  clue  up."  We  are  now  standing 
towards  the  United  States'  man-of-war  Southampton.  "  Let  go 
the  mizen  top-sail  braces,"  "  stand  by,"  "let  go  the  anchor,"  and 
at  9  A.M.,  our  ship  rounded  to  and  bowed  submission  to  her 
chains.  We  are  now  at  anchor  five  miles  from  shore ;  a  fleet 
of  hungoes  are  coming  off  for  the  passengers,  propelled  l>j  na- 
tives in  their  "dishabille;"  all  who  are  able,  are  prepared  to 
debark,  but  fourteen  of  our  number  are  confined  to  their  berths 
in  a  helpless,  and  almost  hopeless  condition  ;  my  friend  Clark  is 
one  of  the  number ;  the  scurvy  has  rendered  his  limbs  entirely  use- 
less, and  there  is  no  hope  entertained  of  his  recovery.  We  bade 
them  farewell,  and  started  for  the  shore.  We  looked  back  at  the 
ship,  which  now  presents  the  trim  appearance  of  a  ship  close - 
reefed. 

It  being  ebb-tide  our  boat  went  aground  half  a  mile  from  the 
shore  ;  our  boatmen,  however,  were  prepared  for  the  emergency, 
it  being  with  them  an  almost  daily  occurrence ;  they  got  out, 
backed  up,  and  wished  us  to  mount.  It  was  to  me  a  novel  way 
of  riding.  I  had  ridden  "  bare-backed,"  but  always  supported 
by  a  greater  number  of  legs.  After  sundry  stumbles  and  plunges, 
which  kept  my  clean  shirt  in  imminent  peril,  I  was  safely  set  down 
on  shore,  for  which  extra  service  my  noble  steed  thought  a  reoZ 
full  compensation.  I  had  my  trunk  carried  to  the  Philadelphia 
Hotel.  I  drank  freely  of  wine  and  went  out  on  the  balcony, 
which  extends  from  the  second^  story,  to  enjoy  a  cigar  and  my 


186  CALIFORyiA  ILLUSTRATED. 

own  tlioughts.  I  soon  felt  as  liappj  as  a  man  could  well  feel 
under  tlie  influence  of  tlie  same  quantity  of  wine.  I  kept  my 
eye  on  tlie  table,  dinner  was  in  an  advanced  state  of  preparation ; 
and,  dear  reader,  you  will  form  some  idea  of  the  voracity  of  my 
apjDctite  when  you  reflect  that  I  have  not  dined  in  fifty-one  days. 
I  must  claim  your  indulgence  here,  for  I  must  confess  I  am  in 
doubt  whether  I  am  competent  to  write  intelhgibly ;  just  on 
shore,  you  know ;  and  then,  you  know,  the  best  of  wine  will  some- 
times lead  one  astraj^ ;  but  dinner  is  ready,  and  who  cares  for 
public  opinion  when  he  has  enough  to  eat  and  drink.  I  sat  at 
table  as  long  as  there  was  anything  visible,  when  I,  very  pru- 
dently, got  up,  lighted  a  cigar  and  went  out  for  a  promenade. 
The  wine  was  flowing  briskly  through  my  veins,  and  I  felt  a 
healthful  glow  throughout  my  system.  I  felt  that  politeness 
was  the  main  ingredient  in  my  composition,  and  was  disposed  to 
raise  my  hat  to  every  individual  I  met.  I,  however,  restrained 
myself,  and  bestowed  my  bows  only  upon  the  half-clad  Senoritas. 
Panama  had  become  completely  Americanized.  There  was 
the  American  Hotel,  the  New  York,  the  Philadelphia,  the 
United  States,  the  St.  Charles,  Washington,  &c.,  &c.,  and  half 
the  business  in  town  was  done  by  Americans.  After  supper, 
we  strolled  to  the  "  Battery,"  seated  ourselves  on  a  brass  fifty -six, 
and  viewed  one  of  the  most  magnificent  moon-light  scenes  I  ever 
beheld.  The  bay  was  as  placid  as  a  mirror ;  the  ships  lying 
quietly  at  anchor,  loomed  up  like  phantoms ;  the  islands  being 
just  visible  in  the  distance.  Behind  us  was  a  ruined  monastery,  the 
moon  looking  in  at  the  roof  and  windows,  disclosing  the  innum- 
erable bats  that  nightly  congregate  to  gambol  through  these 
halls  of  desolation.  After  spending  an  hour  here,  we  passed 
through  one  of  the  dilapidated  gateways  and  took  a  surf  bath  ; 
we  reentered  through  the  gateway,  and  passed  along  the  wall  to 
the  convent  of  San  Francisco,  an  immense  structure  covering  an 
area  of  800  feet  square ;  it  is  now  untenanted,  and  in  ruins. 
Near  one  corner  of  this,  standing  in  the  street,  is  a  stone  pedes- 
tal surmounted  by  a  cross,  where  the  devout  are  wont  to  kneel 
and  kiss  the  image  of  ''Nuestro  Senora'."  Passing  up  the  main 
street,  "  Calle  de  Merced^''^  we  found  the  citizens  all  out  enjoying 
the  evening ;  and  as  we  passed  we  could  hear  them  modestly 
whisper,  "  Los  Americanos  tiene  mucho  oro  ;"  during  the  night 


BURNING  THE  DEAD.  187 

we  had  the  usual  procession  of  nuns  and  priests,  and  tlie  next 
day  was  ushered  in  by  the  discordant  clamor  of  church-bells, 
I  say  this  without  reproach,  for  half  the  bells  were  cracked,  (and 
it  was  a  great  wonder  they  were  not  all  so,)  and  every  morning 
from  daylight  to  nine,  they  were  undergoing  the  ordeal  of  a  se- 
vere drubbing. 

The  vaults  of  Panama  in  which  the  dead  are  deposited,  are 
laid  up  in  mason  work,  and  resemble  a  succession  of  large  ovens. 
They  are  under  the  control  of  the  priests,  and  are  the  source  of 
an  immense  revenue.  Of  the  strange  and  often  barbarous  cus- 
toms adopted  by  the  church  here,  the  most  strange,  the  most  inhu- 
man and  revolting,  is  that  of  burning  the  bodies  of  the  dead. 
This  diabolical  practice  cannot  be  contemplated  without  feelings 
of  indignation  and  horror.  Nations  have  praticed  the  burning 
of  their  dead  in  order  to  preserve  their  ashes,  but  this  is  not  the 
object  here — would  that  I  could  have  learned  an  object  so  lauda- 
ble— but  here  nothing  can  be  said  in  mitigation.  The  word  of 
the  priest  is  potent,  and  considered  by  the  people  a  mandate 
from  Heaven.  Whatever  he  requires  is  submitted  to  with 
cheerfulness,  they  thinking  it  the  will  of  the  Supreme  Being. 
The  priest  requires  a  fee  for  his  important  intercessions  for  the 
dead,  as  well  for  the  consecrated  tapers  that  burn  at  the  head 
of  the  corpse  during  the  funeral  services,  as  for  a  place  in  conse- 
crated ground,  and  prayers  for  the  soul  which  is  supposed  to 
linger  a  long  and  painful  probation  in  purgatory,  after  the  body 
is  consigned  to  the  tomb.  The  friends  of  the  dead  are  obliged  to 
pay  in  proportion  to  the  services  rendered.  A  requiem  in  a 
whisper  costs  but  half  as  much  as  one  in  an  audible  tone  of 
voice,  3.nd  one  on  high  "C"  is  still  much  more  expensive.  A 
place  for  burial  in  the  earth,  even  in  consecrated  ground,  is  pro- 
cured at  a  moderate  cost,  but  in  the  vaults,  above  described,  the 
charge  is  much  higher,  often  beyond  the  means  of  the  poorer 
classes.  These-vaults  as  well  as  the  consecrated  ground  belong 
to  the  church,  and  the  proceeds  go  into  the  hands  of  the  priests. 
The  vaults  are  not  numerous,  and  are  of  sufficient  capacity  only 
to  accommodate  the  deaths  of  a  few  months ;  but  in  order  to  serve 
all,  the  priests  have  hit  upon  the  expedient  of  an  annual  "  fune- 
ral pile."  "  All-Saint's  day  "  in  each  year,  is  the  one  dedicated  to 
this  sacrilegious  act.    On  that  day  the  vaults  give  up  their  dead, 


188  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

wliicli  are  carried  a  short  distance  and  committed  to  tlie 
flames. 

This  act  would  be  less  revolting  if  done  effectually,  bnt  like 
everything  done  in  this  country,  it  is  but  half  done.  Men  are 
hired  to  do  the  work,  but  wood  being  scarce,  and  not  expecting 
the  priests  to  inspect,  they  do  as  httle  work  as  possible,  keeping  in 
view  their  reward.  I  can  never  forget  my  feelings,  u23on  visit- 
ing this  scene  of  annual  desecration  ;  my  very  soul  sickens  with 
disgust  at  the  recollection  of  it.  Here  were  coffins  half-burned, 
exhibiting  the  ghastly  visages  of  their  liieless  tenants ;  others 
having  turned  over  during  the  conflagration,  had  emptied  the 
half-decayed  bodies  upon  the  ground ;  some  partially  con- 
sumed, others  still  shrouded  in  their  gTave-clothes.  Here  lay 
the  head  and  part  of  the  chest  of  a  stalwart  frame,  the  flesh  hav- 
ing but  just  commenced  to  decay,  the  countenance  still  bearing 
the  impress  of  its  Maker.  Yery  near,  partially  shrouded  in  a 
winding  sheet,  were  the  delicately  moulded  limbs  of  a  female, 
who  had  for  a  brief  period  tenanted  the  house  of  death,  now 
brought  forth  and  committed  to  the  flames. 

It  will  be  a  consolation  to  those  residing  in  the  States,  who 
have  lost  friends  at  Panama,  to  know  that  no  one  out  of  the  church 
is  allowed  burial  in  consecrated  ground ;  their  remains,  conse- 
sequently,  are  not  disturbed.  According  to  the  true  theory  of 
religion,  infants  that  die  before  baptism  go  directly  to  purga- 
tory, notwithstanding  their  parents  may  belong  to  the  true 
church.  As  a  suitable  receptacle  for  these  unfortunate  little 
innocents,  deep  pits  are  dug  in  the  rear  of  the  churches,  into 
which  they  are  unceremoniously  cast ;  their  influence  upon  con- 
secrated ground  would,  it  is  thought,  be  contaminating.  Curiosity 
led  me  to  inspect  one  of  these  pits  ;  what  I  beheld  I  will  leave  to 
the  imagination  of  the  reader.  I  am  not  prepared  to  say  positively^ 
but  I  believe  that  the  true  theory  in  reference  to  these  infants 
is,  that  they  are  not  irrevocably  lost,  but  to  reclaim  them  from 
purgatory  requires  a  gigantic  effort  on  the  part  of  the  church. 

There  are  many  things  here  to  attract  and  awaken  interest  in 
the  mind,  but  no  matter  how  strong  the-  desire  for  information, 
nothing  can  be  learned  from  the  lower  classes  of  the  population. 
The  source  of  information  which,  in  the  States  is  inexhaustible, 
is  here  barren ;  for  to  say  that  a  ISTew  Grenadian  even  knows  his 


PEEELESS  CHARACTEEISTICS.  189 

own  wife  and  children,  is  awarding  Mm,  comparative! j,  a  very 
high  degree  of  attainment.  Pass  and  inspect  the  ruins  of  a 
monastery  or  other  edifice,  and  ask  the  first  person  jou  meet 
what  it  is,  and  what  the  cause  of  its  destruction  ?  the  invariable 
reply  is,  "  no  sabio,  Senor.''''  In  passing  along  near  the  head  of 
"  Calle  San  Juan  de  DioJ''  my  attention  was  attracted  by  the 
movements  of  a  little  girl  who,  with  a  lighted  taper  in  her  hand, 
passed  rapidly  along  to  an  elbow  in  the  main  wall  of  the  city, 
and  leaving  her  light  hastily  retreated.  Upon  inspecting  the 
spot,  I  discovered  that  part  of  the  wall  was  laid  up  of  human 
skulls,  and  removing  a  stone  which  closed  up  an  aperture,  I  saw 
a  burning  taper  which  is  kept  here  as  an  "  eternal  light."  I 
stepped  into  a  small  store  near  and  inquired  the  history  of  this 
catacomb ;  the  response  was,  "no  sabi  Senor."  My  solution  was 
that  they  were  the  bones  of  heroes  who  had  fallen  in  the  de- 
fence of  the  city. 

When  speaking  of  the  ignorance  of  the  people,  I  wish  to  be 
understood  as  alluding  to  the  mass,  for,  in  Panama,  there  are 
ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  highest  cultivation  and  attainments, 
those  who  are  endowed  in  the  highest  degree  with  those  peerless 
qualities  which  are  so  pre-eminently  characteristic  of  the  Castil- 
ian  race.  The  stranger's  friend,  and  friend's  protector ;  life  itself 
is  not  a  sacrifice  when  lost  in  the  protection  of  that  of  a  friend. 
The  ignorance  of  the  mass,  as  in  all  the  departments  of  Spanish 
America,  arises  from  a  want  of  noble  incentives ;  the  entire 
mind  being  enslaved  and  controlled  by  the  church. 


C!iE|itn  Cjiirtij-snnnL 


A  NtTN— FANDANGO— MARRIAGE  ENGAGEMENT  BROKEN— START  FOR  GORGONA— OUR  EX- 
TREME MODESTY— SAGACITY  OF  THE  MULE— SLEEP  ON  MY  TRUNK— A  DREAM— AN  ALLI- 
GATOR WITH  A  MOUSTACHE — INFERNAL  REGIONS — DEMONS — AN  INDIVIDUAL  WITH  LONG 
EARS,  AND  A  MULE  IN  BOOTS— FALLING  OUT  OF  BED— FUNERAL  PROCESSION— GORGONA 
— BTART  FOR  CHAGRES— OUR  BUNGO  FULL— SPONTANEOUS  COMBUSTION,  ALMOST—"  POCO 
TIEMPO" — LIZARDS  FOR  DIJTNER — THE  HOSTESS — GATUN — MUSIC  OF  THE  OCEAN — AB- 
KIVAL. 

Theee  were  a  niiinber  of  Americans  in  town,  en  route  to  Cali- 
fornia, awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  Steamer  Oregon,  whicli  was,  at 
this  time,  fully  due ;  there  were  also  here  several  females  from  the 
States,  unattended,  on  their  way  to  the  "  Eldorado."  I  sketched 
the  convent  of  "  San  Francisco  "  and  "  La  Mugher,"  and  while 
doing  the  latter  I  was  watched  by  a  nun  whose  pallid  features  I 
could  plainly  see  through  the  grating. 

During  the  evening  we  visited  the  "lions,"  and  brought 
up  at  a  "fandango;"  we  did  not,  however,  participate  in  the 
dance,  but  retired  in  good  season,  designing  to  set  out  the  next 
morning  for  Gorgona.  At  an  early  hour  the  Philadelphia  was 
besieged  by  dusky  muleteers  reiterating  their  "cargo  Gorgona?" 
and  before  the  sun  had  shown  his  disc  above  the  horizon,  we 
were  under  way.  As  we  passed  along  Calle  de  Merced,  I  was 
very  modestly  recognized  by  an  interesting  Senorita,  who,  on  the 
previous  evening,  had  made  to  me  a  proposition  of  marriage ;  I, 
of  course,  accepted ;  but  owing  to  numerous  pressing  engage- 
ments, I  was  not  just  then  prepared  to  attend  to  it,  and  post- 
poned it  until  the  next  evening.  I  did  not  tell  her  that  I  was 
to  leave  town  early  the  next  morning,  nor  did  she  suspect  when 
I  passed,  that  I  was  on  my  way,  but  looked  as  much  as  to  say, 
"  you  won't  forget,  will  you  ?"  As  we  gained  the  out-skirts  of 
the  city,  we  were  hailed  by  half  a  dozen  half-clad  natives,  who 
demanded  a  real  for  each  horse  and  mule  in  our  cavalcade.     We 


SAGACITY  OF  THE   MULE.  191 

exhibited  the  strongest  symptoms  of  non-compliance,  and  our 
worthy  collectors  were  soon  convinced  that  we  were  not  the 
party  they  were  looking  for ;  they,  however,  succeeded  in  ex- 
torting from  many,  and  claimed  to  be  acting  under  a  recent  act 
of  government. 

As  we  arrived  at  the  national  bridge,  we  met  a  party  of 
Senoritas  wending  their  way  towards  the  city ;  they  saluted  us 
with  "buenos  dias,  Caballieros,"  and  said  by  their  looks  that 
they  would  accompany  us  to  the  States,  if  we  wished  them  to. 
Our  extreme  modesty  prevented  our  making  the  proposition, 
and  we  parted  with  a  mutual  "  adios."  We  soon  entered  the 
forest,  where  the  gigantic  palms,  embracing  each  other,  protected 
us  from  the  scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  Our  cavalcade  was  made 
up  of  mules  and  horses,  some  of  them  mounted,  others  packed. 
Our  mutual  friend,  J.  E.  Foster,  whom  we  had  expected  for  days 
to  consign  to  the  ocean,  was  one  of  our  party  ;  being  mounted 
on  a  gentle  horse,  in  an  easy  saddle,  and  buoyed  up  with  the 
fond  hope  of  again  reaching  home,  he  astonished  all  by  his  per- 
severing endurance.  The  balance  of  the  party  were  in  good 
health,  and  enjoyed  the  trip  exceedingly. 

I  was  much  struck,  as  I  had  often  been,  with  the  sagacity  of 
the  mule.  One  of  them  was  packed  with  Mr.  Fairchild's  trunk, 
and  my  own ;  feeling  some  interest  in  my  trunk,  I  naturally 
paid  the  most  attention  to  that  particular  mule ;  and  if  he  could 
have  understood  any  language  excepting  the  dead  ones,  I  should 
have  informed  him  that  I  thought  him  a  very  fine  fellow.  But 
just  as  I  came  to  this  very  satisfactory  conclusion,  he  was  guilty 
of  a  freak  that  well-nigh  destroyed  my  confidence  in  him.  We 
had  gained  the  summit  of  a  hill,  where  the  path  stretched  away 
for  half  a  mile,  almost  level,  when  mule  took  it  into  his  head  to 
run,  and,  to  my  great  amazement,  he  did  run ;  I  presumed  he 
was  making  his  escape,  and  cried  out  to  the  muleteer  to  stop 
him,  but  he  rephed  "mula  caro  algun  per  comer,"  and  so  it 
proved,  for  after  running  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  he  stopped  and 
commenced  eating.  As  soon  as  the  cavalcade  came  up,  h^"  again 
started,  and  kept  repeating  until  he  had  satisfied  his  hunger, 
when  he  walked  along  in  the  most  orderly  manner,  and  good 
humored  too,  for  his  ears  were  erect,  and  a  smile  appeared 
to  beam  from  his  countenance.  ^    At  our  first  watering-plaee,  after 


192  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTEATED. 

drinking,  lie  dropped  himself  down,  in  tlie  most  meclianical  man- 
ner, to  rest.  "When  we  were  ready  to  start,  the  ''mula"'  of  our 
muleteer  would  bring  him  to  his  hoofs,  all  right,  and  off. 

At  1  P.iT.,  we  reached  the  "half-way  tent,"  and  as  some  of  the 
party  were  behind,  we  resolved  to  put  up  for  the  night.  After 
supper  we  heard  a  cannon,  announcing  the  arrival  of  the  Oregon 
at  Panama.  I  stretched  myself  out  on  my  trunk  in  the  open 
air,  and  was  scon  unconscious  of  my  situation.  My  spirit  was 
restless,  and,  as  if  not  satisfied  with  one  trip,  spent  the  night  in 
passing  to  and  fro,  over  the  route  we  had  traveled  during  the 
day.  Now  my  mule  would  change  to  a  monkey,  and  I  would 
ride  him  to  the  top  of  one  of  the  highest  trees ;  he  would  then 
become  instantly  transformed  into  an  alligator,  and  there  would 
be  left  no  alternative  but  to  precipitate  ourselves  into  the  mud 
below  ;  in  the  passage  down  I  was  also  transformed  into  an  alli- 
gator, and  immediately  found  myself  covered  with  scales  and 
swimming  about  in  a  pond,  with  an  alligator  on  each  side,  hold- 
ing on  to  my  moustache,  "  showing  me  up"  to  my  fellow  alli- 
gators. The  honors  heaped  upon  me  so  excited  and  elated  me, 
that  I  commenced  rushing  through  the  water,  and  soon  found 
myself  high  and  dry  on  land,  looking  around  for  my  mule.  I 
again  mounted,  and  resolved  to  have  no  farther  connexion  with 
either  monkey  or  alligator,  but  to  ride  directly  through  to  Gorgo- 
na.  Again  my  spirit  lost  its  way,  and  I  found  myself  on  the 
bank  of  one  of  the  most  sluggish  and  dismal  streams  it  is  possible 
to  imagine  ;  the  recollection  of  it  now  sends  a  chill  to  my  heart. 
My  mule  stood  appalled  with  terror,  and  cried  for  mercy,  when 
I  ajDplied  the  spur.  There  was  no  alternative ;  it  lay  in  the 
route,  and  we  must  cross  it;  I  rode  back  a  short  distance 
that  my  mule  might  forget  his  terror ;  he  again  came  up,  reared  and 
plunged,  and  we  immediately  sank  below  the  surface  ;  we  con- 
tinued to  sink  down,  down,  down,  a  damp  chilly  sensation  crept 
over  me,  and  I  became  stifled  with  horror ;  now  my  mule  blows 
fire  and  smoke  from  his  nostrils,  and  a  demon  of  the  most  ap- 
palling aspect,  covered  with  green  and  shme,  and  now  another 
and  another,  all  dancing  along,  laughing  most  hideously  and 
biting  their  fingers  in  derision,  as  they  contemplate  their  vic- 
tim. We  soon  reached  their  abode,  my  blood  is  sent  curdling 
to  my  heart,  and  with  a  feeling  of  horror  and  desperation  I  strike 


START  FOR  CHAGRES.  193 

llie  spur  into  mj  mule,  and  with  one  terrific  leap  we  pass  through, 
unscathed.  The  demons  gave  chase,  but  borne  on  the  wings 
of  fear  we  soon  reached  the  other  side  of  the  earth.  Here  every- 
thing appears  strange ;  mj  mule  has  but  two  legs,  and  wears 
boots  and  spurs  ;  I  have  four  legs,  and  a  pair  of  enormous  ears ; 
I  am  led  up  to  a  block  and  mounted  by  his  mulesMp^  who,  after 
lighting  his  cigar,  applies  his  spurs ;  I  determined  to  reach  the 
other  side  by  recrossing  his  "  Satanic  majestie's  "  dominions,  and 
after  passing  through  the  same  horrifying  scene,  regained  the 
starting  point.  I  remounted  my  mule,  which  now  seemed  to 
have  the  usual  number  of  legs,  and  after  crossing  sloughs  and 
climbing  mountains,  we  came  to  a  precipice  which  he  refused  to 
descend.  After  repeated  applications  of  the  spur,  he  reared  and 
plunged,  and  as  he  reached  the  brink  of  the  precipice  he  settled 
back,  and  I  passed  over  his  head ;  in  passing  over  I  caught  hold* 
of  his  ears,  which,  pulling  out,  I  was  precipitated  into  the  abyss 
below.  The  concussion  awoke  me,  and  I  found  that  I  had  fallen 
from  my  trunk,  and  was  grasping  tightly  the  bottoms  of  the 
legs  of  my  pantaloons. 

In  the  morning  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  learning  that  our 
mules  had  strayed,  and  were  detained  until  10  o'clock.  We 
reached  Gorgon  a  at  4  p.m.  As  we  were  entering  the  town,  we 
met  a  funeral  procession  headed  by  a  fife  and  drum ;  the  corpse 
borne  on  a  bier  with  face  uncovered,  (coffins  are  not  used,)  the 
mother  of  deceased  standing  in  the  door  of  her  dwelling,  utter- 
ing the  most  heart-rending  exclamations.  The  whole  was  accom- 
panied by  the  uncouth  sound  of  a  piece  of  old  iron  hanging  in 
the  church  door,  serving  as  a  bell,  and  at  this  particular  time 
undergoing  a  severe  castigation.  Towards  evening,  another 
corpse  was  borne  along  with  the  same  accompaniments.  The 
deceased  was  a  small  child ;  its  head  was  decorated  with  flowers, 
its  face  uncovered,  looking  the  very  personation  of  sleeping -in- 
nocence. 

We  put  up  at  the  French  Hotel,  and  learning  that  the  Empire 
City  was  to  remain  but  one  day  longer  at  Chagres,  we  resolved 
to  embark  early  the  next  morning.  We  contracted  with  a  na- 
tive to  take  our  party  of  eleven  for  $22,  and  at  an  early  hour 
were  en  route.  We  glided  down  the  river  very  pleasantly,  pro- 
pelled by  three  oarsmen,  with  our  worthy  captain  at  the  helm.. 
18 


194  CALIFORXIA   ILLUSTEATED. 

After  making  tvro  or  three  miles,  we  were  brouglit  to  a  dead 
stand  on  a  sand-bar ;  our  boatmen  backed  np,  we  mounted  and 
were  carried  to  the  sbore.  They  succeeded  in  getting  the  bungo 
over  the  shoal  and  we  reembarked  half  a  mile  below. 

It  will  be  imagined  that  we  had  but  little  spare  room  in  our 
craft  after  putting  in  eleven  trunks,  as  many  traveling-bags,  as 
many  pairs  of  blankets,  and  fifteen  human  beings.  This  was  the 
case  ;  and  some  of  our  passengers  having  tasted  the  luxury  of  a 
California  life,  looked  upon  our  voyage  down  the  river  as  a 
hardship  unendurable,  and  censured  the  fellow-passenger  who 
had  made  the  contract.  The  latter  worthy,  feeling  it  an  unjust 
imputation,  gave  the  dissatisfied  gentlemen  above  mentioned 
the  privilege  of  taking  passage  in  any  craft  that  might  come 
along.  This  led  to  personalities,  and  the  'feelings  of  our  party 
were  immediately  in  a  state  of  ferment;  brandy  did  not  serve  to 
allay  the  excitement,  but  seemed  to  add  fuel,  and  we  were  on 
the  eve  of  spontaneous  combustion. 

We  arrived  at  a  rancho,  where  it  was  proposed  to  dine.  Here 
•commenced  a  dissertation  on  "poco  tiempo,"  (little  time).  These 
two  words  constitute  almost  the  entire  vocabulary  of  a- native. 
Ask  him  how  far  it  is  to  a  rancho,  "  poco  tiempo,"  how  far  it  is 
to  water,  "  poco  tiempo."  If  they  are  employed  by  you,  and  you 
allow  them  to  stop  under  any  pretext,  they  never  start,  but  are 
always  on  the  point  of  so  doing ;  it  is  "  poco  tiempo." 

We  had  contracted  to  be  taken  through  by  daylight,  and  we 
had  no  time  to  spare ;  but  after  dinner  the  crew  and  *'  el  capitan  " 
must  have  their  *'  siesta^  We  would  urge  them  to  start,  but  they 
were  fatigued,  they  would  start  *'  poco  tiempo."  They  would 
*'  caro  agua^''^  or"  caro  cognac^''  and  after  a  detention  of  two  hours 
we  got  into  the  hungo  and  were  in  the  act  of  shoving  oflP,  when 
they  consented  to  come  on  board,  and  we  were  again  under  way. 

I  omitted  our  bill  of  fare  at  the  above  rancho.  Our  worthy 
hostess  was  on  the  shady  side  of  forty,  and  surrounded  by  half 
a  dozen  "  muclmclios^'*  all  as  naked  at  they  came  into  the  world. 
Our  hostess  had  paid  a  little  more  attention  to  her  toilet,  and 
seemed  dressed  with  an  express  view  to  comfort,  her  entire 
wardrobe  consisting  of  a  pair  slippers  and  a  Panama  hat.  Our 
first  dish  was  a  stew  of  lizards  and  carna  ;  this  was  served  out  in 
gourd-shells,  which  were  held  to  our  mouths,  and  the  pieces  of 


ARRIVAL  AT  CHAGRES.  195 

meat  coaxed  in  with  our  fingers.  Our  second  and  last  dish  was 
boiled  eggs.  Our  cook  should  have  felt  complimented,  for  we  ate 
and  drank  everything  in  the  house,  and  wanted  more.  She  looked 
on  with  astonishment  at  the  sudden  disappearance  of  her  stew 
and  eggs,  and  said  to  one  of  our  boatmen,  "  los  Americanos  tiena 
mucho  hambre;"  and  so  we  were  hungry,  or  we  could  not  have 
relished  lizards  even  when  stewed,  for  I  must  confess  my  predi- 
lections were  never  very  stongly  in  favor  of  that  particular  spe- 
cies of  reptile.  In  passing  along  down,  we  came  in  contact 
with  the  carcase  of  a  large  alligator ;  it  had  been  pierced  by  seve- 
ral balls,  and  was  now  borne  along  by  the  current,  destined,  per- 
haps, to  take  up  its  final  rest  in  the  bosom  of  the  Atlantic.  In 
the  afterpart  of  the  day  we  were  overtaken  by  Mr.  Miller  of 
Gorgona,  who  was  expressing  to  the  steamer  at  Chagres  the 
arrival  of  the  Oregon  at  Panama.  Night  overtook  us  in  a 
most  discordant  mood,  and  at  a  great  distance  from  our  des- 
tination. 

We  arrived  at  Gratun  at  9  p.m.  ;  some  were  in  favor  of  stop- 
ping, others  of  continuing  on,  the  former  had  the  majority,  and 
we  made  fast  to  the  shore,  and  had  another  dissertation  on 
"poco  tiempo,"  and  after  an  hour's  detention  were  again  under 
way. 

At  2  A.M.,  we  heard  the  sound  of  drums,  and  our  boatmen 
cry  out  "fandango ;"  we  could  soon  distinguish  the  ocean  by  the 
halo  that  rose  from  its  surface,  and  could  plainly  hear  the  surf 
as  it  broke  upon  the  beach.  We  could  see  the  lights  on  the 
steamer  that  was  at  anchor  outside,  and  an  occasional  light 
dodging  about  on  shore. 

At  3  A.M.,  we  made  fast  to  the  American  bank  of  the  .river, 
and  had  our  baggage  carried  to  the  American  Hotel.  All  were 
asleep,  but  we  took  possession  of  the  dining-room  and  spread 
our  blankets  on  the  floor.  The  next  morning  we  were  all  at 
breakfast  precisely  at  the  time  and  a  little  before. 


Clia|iter  Cji!rti|-ttrirL 


CHAGRES,  ITS  GROWTH — GETTING  ON  BOARD  THE  EMPIRE  CITY— MAGNIFICENT  STEAMER- 
GOLD  DUST  ON  BOARD — STEAMERS  ALABAMA,  FALCON,  CHEROKEE,  AND  SEVERN — >IY 
FRIEND  CLARK  ARRIVES  ON  BOARD — PREPARATIONS  FOR  STARTING — OUR  STEAMER  MAKES 
HER  FIRST  LEAP— "  ADIOS  "—CARIBBEAN  SEA— HEAVY  SEA  ON— JAMAICA— PORT  ROYAL 
— ^KINGSTON — "steady" — BEAUTIFUL  SCENE — ORANGE  GROVES — PEOPLE  FLOCKING  TO 
THE  SHORE— DROP  ANCHOR— THE  TOWN — GENERAL  SANTA  ANNa'S  RESIDENCE—"  COAL- 
ING UP  " — A  PARROT  PEDLER  IN  A  DILEMMA. 

Chagres  had  undergone  a  great  change  ;  the  American  side 
which  had  contained  but  one  hut  on  my  first  arrival,  now  pre- 
sented the  appearance  of  a  thriving  village  of  substantial  framed 
houses,  and  appeared  a  place  of  considerable  business.  (See 
Plate).  The  facilities  for  transportation  up  the  river  and  across 
to  Panama,  were  ample.  Several  express  agencies  had  been 
established,  and  arrangements  made  on  a  gigantic  scale  for  the 
transportation  of  goods  up  the  river ;  several  barges  of  the 
largest  class,  furnished  with  India-rubber  covering  to  protect 
goods  from  the  weather,  and  lighters  of  the  greatest  strength 
and  capacity  for  the  transmission  of  treasures  to  and  from  the 
steamers.  In  connection  with  these,  there  were  mules  stationed 
at  Panama  and  Gorgona,  to  serve  in  the  land  transportation. 

After  breakfast  I  went  off  to  the  steamer  Empire  City,  "pros- 
pecting." It  was  blowing  a  severe  norther,  and  it  was  with  much 
difficulty  we  reached  the  steamer,  and  more  that  we  got  on  board 
of  her.  Iron  steps  were  let  down  on  the  side  of  the  steamer, 
and  as  she  would  roll  to  us,  the  steps  would  be  immersed,  and 
as  she  would  commence  to  roll  back,  one  of  the  passengers  would 
stand  ready  and  jump  on.  After  an. elevation  of  twenty  or 
thirty  feet,  the  steps  would  return  for  another  passenger. 

The  accommodations  on  board  were  unparalleled.  I  imme- 
diately engaged  passage  and  sent  off  for  my  trunk,  which  came 
on  board  in  the  afternoon,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Jas.  Eolfe  Foster, 


^ 


CARIBBEAN  SEA.  197 

wlio  shared  my  state-room.  The  Empire  City  is  the  "ne  plus 
ultra  "  of  steamers,  and  Captain  Wilson  worthy  to  command  her. 
She  is  almost  a  world  in  size,  furnished  with  the  greatest  mag- 
nificence, her  bill  of  fare  comprising  the  luxuries  of  all  climates. 
The  Steamers  Alabama  from  New  Orleans,  and  Falcon  from  New 
York,  came  in,  in  the  afterpart  of  the  day. 

25th.  The  dust  by  the  Oregon  has  just  arrived  from  Panama, 
and  as  soon  as  it  is  on  board  we  Shall  up  anchor.  There  are 
$1,600,000,  besides  what  is  in  the  hands  of  passengers.  Bungoes 
are  coming  off  with  passengers,  and  as  it  is  blowing  a  gale,  the 
steamer  rolls  tremendously,  making  it  almost  impossible  for 
passengers  to  board  her.  The  greatest  dexterity  is  required, 
for,  after  reaching  the  steps,  one  is  in  imminent  danger  of  being 
swept  off  by  the  next  sea.  Ladies  were  drawn  up  in  chairs,  as 
were  also  the  invalids.  In  the  afterpart  of  the  day,  I  had  the 
extreme  pleasure  of  assisting  on  board  my  friend  E.  W.  Clark,  jr., 
I  had  left  him  in  his  berth  on  board  the  Everett,  in  a  very 
feeble  state  ;  but  the  tropical  fruits  had  operated  upon  his  system 
like  magic,  and  he  had  become  able  to  cross  the  Isthmus  on 
horseback.  He  eventually  recovered,  and  was  restored  to  his 
friends.  Mr.  Lewis  came  on  board  also.  He  had  lost  the  use 
of  one  of  his  legs,  and  was  borne  across  on  a  litter.  One  of  our 
fellow  passengers  on  the  Everett  was  less  fortunate ;  he  lived 
two  days  after  coming  to  anchor,  when  he  expired  and  was  taken 
on  shore  at  Panama,  and  buried. 

26th.  The  British  Steamer,  Severn,  has  just  come  to  anchor, 
also  the  Cherokee  from  New  York.  At  3  p.m.,  the  Alabama 
moved  off  in  the  direction  of  New  Orleans,  crowded  with  pas- 
sengers. The  smoke  is  beginning  to  loom  up  from  our  chimney, 
our  quarter  boats  are  hauled  up ;  soon  the  windlass  draws  our 
anchor  from  its  bed,  and  our  steamer  raises  her  head,  and  makes 
her  first  leap  for  home.  We  passed  the  Cherokee  and  received 
three  hearty  cheers,  then  the  Falcon,  then  the  Severn,  and  were 
soon  on  our  course,  in  the  direction  of  Kingston,  Jamaica. 
Chagres  is  situated  in  lat.  9^,  21',  long.  8^,  4'.  We  were  now 
fairly  launched,  homeward  bound;  the  waves  of  the  Caribbean 
sea  fleeing  from  us,  as  if  fearful  of  being  drawn  into  the  vortex 
of  our  wheel.  I  remained  on  deck  until  a  late  hour ;  we  had  a 
fresh  breeze  and  heavy  sea;   the  moon  was  almost  full,  and 


198  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

playing  the  coquette,  now  Hding  lier  face,  and  now  casting 
upon  us  one  of  her  most  bewitching  smiles. 

27th.  (Sunday).  It  is  one  year  this  morning  since  I  took 
leave  of  home  and  sailed  for  California.  During  my  absence, 
I  have  passed  through  what  has  cost  many  a  life,  and  once 
almost  felt  the  last  pulsation.  But  now  I  am  in  a  fair  way  of 
being  restored  to  mj^  friends,  in  improved  condition  and  health. 
I  have  not  heard  one  woi'd  from  home  in  six  months ;  my 
anxiety  can  better  be  imagined  than  expressed.  I  can  only 
hope  they  are  alive.  By  observation  at  12  M.,  we  are  420  miles 
from  Kingston,  the  only  port  we  shall  make  on  our  passage  home. 

28th.  Still  a  strong  wind  and  heavy  sea.  We  are  running 
under  fore  sails  and  fore  staysail.  By  observation  at  12  M.,  we 
had  run  174  miles  in  twenty -four  hours. 

26th.  Still  a  heavy  sea  on,  and  a  stiff  breeze.  "We  are  under 
a  full  press  of  canvas,  running  eight  knots.  11  a.m.,  in  sight 
of  land.  We  soon  make  the  highlands,  and  are  running  for 
Port  Eoyal.  We  have  a  pilot  already  on  board,  he  having  ac- 
companied our  steamer  to  Chagres.  Port  Eoyal  is  situated  on  a 
low  island  in  the  mouth  of  a  small  bay,  upon  the  head  of  which 
Kingston  is  situated.  We  passed  an  armed  brig,  a  steamer-of- 
war,  seventy -four  gun  ship,  revenue-cutter,  all  displaying  the  red 
cross  of  St.  George.  A  four-oared  boat  comes  off  towards  us ; 
our  wheels  are  turned  back,  and  we  are  boarded  by  an  of&cer  in 
full  uniform.  After  the  usual  inspection,  our  wheels  again 
revolved,  and  we  moved  on  up  the  bay,  or  river,  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Kingston.  After  running  a  mile,  the  above-mentioned 
of&cer  is  astonished  at  learning  that  our  steamer  is  under 
iceigh ;  he  came  forward  and  wished  to  be  put  on  shore — 
stupid  fellow.  We  are  standing  inland,  with  high  mountains 
on  our  right,  capped  with  clouds.  We  now  pass  fortifications, 
and  bearing  to  the  right ;  our  pilot  sings  out  "  steady !"  we  are 
now  within  full  view  of  Kingston,  and  heading  directly  for  the 
town;  "steady!"  "port!"  steamer  falls  off,  bringing  the  town 
on  our  larboard  bow — ^''hard  a  port  r  on  we  steam — "steady  1" 
We  are  now  passing  a  large  fortification  ;  we  see  houses  nestling 
in  orange  groves  on  the  side  of  the  mountain.  The  town  is  so 
densely  shaded  with  cocoa-nut  and  other  tropical  trees,  that  it  is 
barely  visible.     We  are  drawing  very  near,  the  inhabitants 


KINGSTON — GEN.   SANTA  ANNa'S  RESIDENCE.  199 

are  crowding  to  tlie  sliore.  Our  pilot  sings  out,  "  let  go  the 
anclior,"  the  wheels  are  reversud,  and  we  are  warping  around  to 
the  dock,  which  is  crowded  with  natives  as  black  as  Erebus. 
Our  plank  is  soon  out,  and  our  steamer  belches  forth  her  cargo 
of  Californians,  who,  in  profusion  of  beard  and  hideousness  of 
aspect,  would,  no  doubt,  have  compared  favorably  with  those 
earlier  adventurers  under  Columbus,  who  had  the  honor  of  land- 
ing here  in  advance  of  us.  We  found  the  inhabitants  extremely 
attentive,  particularly  those  who  had  goods  to  sell,  and  they 
were  principally  Jews.  We  were  followed  by  these  insinuating 
individuals,  and  kindly  informed  that  by  going  a  half  mile  we 
could  buy  anything  we  wanted.  We  were  at  a  loss  to  know 
whether  we  were  really  in  want,  but  were  very  kindly  informed 
that  we  were  in  want  of  everything.  Oh  !  Chatham  street,  how 
thou  hast  been  defamed  !  Certainly,  Kingston  instead  of  Chat- 
ham street,  is  the  Jewdom  of  the  world. 

I  had  a  note  of  introduction  from  Mr.  Moreau,  whom  I  met  at 
Gorgona,  to  his  family  at  Kingston.  I  am  not  prepared  to  say 
that  I  was  in  a  presentable  condition.  As  near  as  memory 
serves  me,  I  had  on  a  gay  colored  "poncho,"  a  slouched  hat 
and  long  boots,  saying  nothing  about  the  whiskers  and  mous- 
tache. I  found  an  accomplished  daughter,  who  was  a  good 
English  scholar  and  fine  pianist,  and  a  mother  who  spoke  nothing 
but  French,  My  stay  was  short,  but  under  other  circumstances 
I  should  have  wished  a  prolongation. 

Many  of  the  passengers  visited  General  Santa  Anna,  whose 
villa  was  one  mile  from  Kingston.  He  was  living  in  great 
splendor,  and  was  found  extremely  affable,  speaking  the  Eng- 
lish language  fluently.  Kingston  is  a  town  of  considerable 
extent,  the  streets  running  at  right  angles,  well-shaded ;  numerous 
churches  and  schools ;  the  buildings  generally  of  brick,  built  low 
to  prevent  disasters  from  hurricanes.  The  inhabitants  are  gen- 
erally instructed  in  the  rudiments  of  an  English  education,  and 
are  quite  intelligent,  but  all  complain  of  poverty.  The  island 
produces  fruit  in  abundance,  it  hardly  commands  a  price,  ex- 
cepting on  the  arrival  of  a  steamer,  when  it  is  higher  than  in 
almost  any  market  in  the  world.  The  natives  have  taken  valu- 
able lessons  from  the  Jews,  and  appear  to  have  acquired  their 
peculiar  business  habits  with  the  greatest  facility.     One  of  them 


'.^^^ 


Cjjapin  Cjiirtij-fntirtli. 


OUR  WHEELS  REVOLVE— THE  NATIVES  OP  THE  ISLAND  EXTINCT— THE  WRONGS  THEY  HAYB 
SUFFERED— THE  ISLAND  ONCE  A  PARADISE— SAN  DOMINGO,  HER  MOUNTAINS— CUBA — 
A  SHOWER  BATH  GRATIS — "  SAIL  HO  !" — CAYCUS  ISLAND  AND  PASSAGE — TURTLE  FOR 
DINNER — A  SERMON — GALLANT  CONDUCT  OF  OUR  STEAMER — WE  SHIP  A  SEA — A  SPAN- 
ISH VESSEL  IN  DISTRESS— OUR  TILLER  CHAINS  GIVE  WAY— A  KNIFE  AND  FORK  IN 
SEARCH  OF  MINCE  PIES— GULP  STREAM— WATER-SPOUTS— "  LIGHT  SHIP  "—SANDY 
HOOK — ANXIETY — SIGHT  OF  NEW  YORK — PEELINGS  AND  CONDITION  OF  THE  PASSENGERS 
—A  SAD  FATE— AGROUND— A  NEW  PILOT— AGAIN  UNDER  WEIGH— NEAR  THE  DOCK — 
A  DEATH — MAN  OVERBOARD — ^MAKE  FAST — AT  HOME — ONE  WORD  TO  THOSE  ABOUT  TO 
EMBARK. 

Jan.  Both.  We  finisli  taking  in  provisions,  coal,  and  water,  and 
at  1  P.M.,  let  go  onr  hawser,  onr  wheels  revolve,  and  we  are 
again  under  weigh,  heading  out  to  sea.  We  take  a  hearty  dinner 
while  yet  in  the  bay,  but  there  is  a  tremendous  sea  outside,  and 
many  will  be  obliged  to  pay  tribute  to  Neptune.  This  is  a  delight- 
ful island,  but  it  is  changed  from  the  paradise  Columbus  found 
it.  Of  the  once  happy,  but  now  grossly  abused  natives,  I  saw 
but  two,  and  am  told  they  are  almost  extinct.  What  a  sad 
commentary  upon  the  law  that  "  might  makes  right."  What 
tenure  could  have  been  more  perfect  than  that  by  which  the  na- 
tive held  this  island.  It  was  bequeathed  to  their  forefathers  by 
the  Creator,  and  transmitted  from  father  to  son ;  but  a  stranger 
visited  them,  and  they  mistook  him  for  a  messenger  from  the 
Great  Spirit,  a  visitor  from  the  clouds.  They  worshipped  the 
stranger,  invited  him  to  their  groves  and  pleasure  grounds,  and 
gave  him  bread  and  wine.  But  alas  !  they  have  embraced  the 
viper.  The  stranger  taking  advantage  of  the  confidence  they, 
in  their  simplicity,  reposed,  smites  them  with  a  ruthless  hand, 
and  hunts  them  down  like  wild  beasts,  until  the  last  son,  goaded 
to  desperation,  severs  the  cord  of  life  and  goes  to  meet  the  spirit 
of  his  fathers  on  the  great  "  hunting  ground."  The  nation  sinks 
into  oblivion,  while  that  of  their  ruthless  invader  is  emblazoned 


202  CALIFORNIA  ILLUSTRATED. 

upon  every  tablet,  and  the  leader  in  tliis  act  of  infamy  sleeps  in 
triumph  under  an  imposing  cenotaph.  Why  does  the  sympathy 
of  nations  sleep  while  there  still  exists  a  remnant  of  this  truly 
noble,  but  down-trodden  people.  As  we  reach  the  ocean  we  take 
a  more  easterly  course,  and  are  brought  in  full  view  of  the  light- 
house, which  is  on  the  extreme  point  of  the  island  ;  we  pass  this 
point  at  9  p.m.,  when  we  take  a  more  northerly  course,  and  stand 
directly  for  Cuba  and  the  Caycus  passage,  designing  to  make, 
also,  the  western  point  of  Hispaniola.  We  have  a  severe  gale, 
but  our  steamer  rides  it  out  most  gallantly. 

31st.  (Morning).  We  are  in  sight  of  Hispaniola,  Hayti,  or  San 
Domingo,  by  all  of  which  names  it  has  been  known  at  different 
times ;  her  mountains  looming  up  several  thousand  feet  above  the 
horizon.  The  sea  is  calm,  our  run  pleasant ;  Cuba  now  appears 
off  our  larboard  bow,  about  forty  miles  distant.  It  is  indicated 
by  heavy  clouds,  at  the  base  of  which,  or  just  above  the  horizon, 
is  *seen  the  dark  outline  of  her  mountains.  The  mountains 
within  the  tropics  are  universally  capped  wiih  clouds,  which,  in 
floating  over,  are  caught  by  the  peaks,  and  there  waste  away,  the 
diminution  supplied  by  the  condensation  of  vapor,  or  the  addi- 
tion of  other  clouds.  During  the  evening,  a  heavy  sea  broke 
against  the  side  of  the  steamer,  bursting  our  port  fastening,  and 
shooting  a  column  of  water  eight  inches  in  diameter,  directly 
into  the  berth  of  my  room-mate.  It  will  readily  be  imagined 
that  he  awoke.  We  have  just  passed  point  St.  Xicholas,  the 
northwest  point  of  St.  Domingo,  and  point  Mayxi,  the  most  east- 
erly point  of  Cuba. 

Feb.  1st.  A  ship  is  seen,  "hull  dov/n,"  off  our  larboard  quar- 
ter; no  land  in  sight,  a  heavy  sea,  and  we  are  standing 
directly  for  the  Caycus  Islands,  which  we  shall  make  about  sun- 
set. 

2nd.  We  have  made  the  Caycus  passage,  left  the  Caribbean  Sea, 
and  are  now  in  the  Atlantic,  heading  north  by  west,  making 
a  direct  course  for  New  York.  We  cross  the  tropic  of  Cancer  at 
a  quarter  to  9  A.M.  We  have  now  nothing  to  do  but  promenade, 
sit  in  our  state-rooms,  and  read,  eat,  sleep,  and  think  of  home. 
We  have  about  300  passengers  on  board.  We  have  live  sheep, 
poultry  in  abundance,  and  some  twenty  huge  turtles,  weighing 
from  two  to  three  hundred  pounds  each,  some  of  each  falling 


A  SPANISH  VESSEL  IN  DISTEESS.  203 

daily  victims  to  our  voracious  appetites.  One  little  turtle  whicli 
looked  as  though  he  had  been  taken  from  his  native  island, 
much  against  his  will,  was  thrust  into  a  barrel,  and  there  com- 
pelled to  lay  on  his  back.  As  I  passed,  I  thought  he  eyed  me 
with  solicitation,  and  I  requested  one  of  the  firemen  to  turn  him 
over.  This  he  did,  much  to  the  poor  creature's  apparent  satis- 
faction. I  relieved  his  pangs  for  the  moment,  and  shall  proba- 
bly help  devour  him  for  dinner.  Mr.  Foster  and  myself  had 
supplied  ourselves  liberally  with  oranges,  pine-apples,  limes, 
*' forbidden  fruit,"  bananas,  &c.,  and  spent  much  of  our  time  in 
feasting.  According  to  observation  at  12  M.,  we  were  920  miles 
from  New  York ;  we  have  made,  in  twenty-four  hours,  214  miles, 
and  are  now  under  a  full  press  of  canvas. 

3rd.  (Sunday).  We  have  a  sermon  by  an  English  clergyman, 
from  Kingston.  By  observation  at  12  M.,  we  had  made  234 
miles  in  twenty-four  hours.  We  have  a  strong  wind,  and  very 
heavy  sea ;  boxes  and  barrels  are  running  foot  races  on  deck, 
it  rains  in  torrents,  hatches  are  closed  down,  but  our  ship  rides 
gallantly.  She  rises  manfully  from  the  strife,  shakes  off  the 
spray,  and  again  leaps  upon  her  antagonist. 

4th.  Stormy  unpleasant  day.  We  are  now  off  the  coast  of 
the  Carolinas,  in  the  gulf-stream.  The  wind  blows  cold  off  the 
land,  reminding  us  of  winter.  Three  days  ago  we  were  picking 
oranges  and  limes,  the  themometer  at  105°.  Oh!  anthracite 
coal !  I  most  earnestly  implore  thy  protection.  While  at  din- 
ner, we  shipped  a  sea,  which  burst  through  the  windows,  jDutting 
out  the  lights,  carrying  every  dish  from  the  table,  and  saturating 
the  entire  company.  The  captain*  who,  with  a  party  of  ladies, 
was  sitting  at  the  head  of  the  table,  claimed  the  most  liberal 
instalment.  At  half  past  2  p.m.,  a  vessel  appears,  and  bears 
down  for  us,  running  before  the  wind.  She  proves  a  Spanish 
bark ;  her  rudder  has  been  carried  away,  a  spar  is  lashed  on  in 
its  place,  by  which  they  are  trying  to  manage  her.  She  has  up 
a  foresail  and  spanker,  and  hoists  a  signal  of  distress.  It  is 
blowing  a  gale,  raining  in  torrents,  and  the  sea  running  moun- 
tain high.  Our  quarter  boats  could  not  live  an  instant,  render- 
ing it  impossible  to  assist  them.  As  they  passed  near  us,  we 
saw  two  men  on  the  foretop-gallant  yard.  At  6  p.m.,  our  tiller 
chains  gave  way,  the  steamer  is  thrown  around  into  the  troughs, 


204  CALIFORNIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

and  rolls  so  that  it  is  impossibb  to  keep  footing  on  deck.  The 
table,  which  has  just  been  spread  for  supper,  is  swept  of  every 
dish  ;  the  cold  beef  chases  the  vegetables  around  the  saloon,  as  if 
death  could  not  dissipate  the  force  of  habit;  the  mustard  and 
vinegar  cruets,  impelled  by  the  same  instinct,  gave  chase  to  the 
beef^  and  after  a  protracted  run,  brought  up  at  my  state-room 
door,  entirely  exhausted.  The  most  amusing  trial  of  speed  took 
place  between  a  knife  and  fork  and  a  mince-pie  ;  the  latter  lost 
its  cap,  or  I  think  it  would  have  won  the  race.  Our  chains  are 
soon  repaired,  and  we  head  on  our  course.  It  is  dark,  and  we 
see  nothing  more  of  the  last  sail ;  wine  circulates  freely ;  our 
steamer  seems  intoxicated,  and  many  of  her  passengers  are  down 
with  the  same  complaint. 

5th.  Cold  unpleasant  morning ;  a  heavy  sea  on.  The  wind 
blowing  against  the  current  of  the  gulf-stream,  causes  a  spray, 
which  rises  in  columns  and  seems  to  congeal  in  the  air.  We  are 
in  close  proximity  to  several  water-spouts,  seeming  the  connect- 
ing links  between  the  ocean  and  the  clouds.  We  are  under 
twenty-one  inches  of  steam,  but  no  canvas,  the  wind  having  been 
dead  ahead  for  the  past  two  days. 

6th.  Clear  and  cold  ;  five  sails  in  sight ;  ocean  as  smooth  as  a 
mirror.  We  fall  in  ^^-ith  a  Delaware  pilot,  who  reports  us  one 
hundred  miles  from  ISTew  York.  An  exclamation  of  joy  burst 
from  the  passengers,  who  are  now  all  on  deck.  At  9  a.  :m.,  we 
saw  the  smoke  of  a  steamer  off  our  larboard  quarter ;  ten  sail  in 
sight ;  the  ocean  presents  a  most  sublime  spectacle,  not  a  breath 
disturbs  its  repose ;  as  if  jaded  by  prolonged  agitation,  it  has 
relapsed  into  a  quiet  slumber.  We  are  in  sight  of  the  light-ship 
off  Delaware  Bay ;  a  pilot  comes  on  board ;  Sandy  Hook  is  in 
sight ;  the  Jersey  shore  stretching  away  to  the  left,  but  just 
seen  above  the  horizon.  We  passed  Sandy  Hook  light-house, 
twenty-five  miles  from  New  York,  at  7  p.m.  As  night  draws 
her  curtain  round,  we  see  looming  up  from  the  horizon,  directly 
in  our  course,  a  halo  of  light,  indicating  the  locality  of  the  city. 
All  are  prepared  to  land,  each,  for  the  time  being,  absorbed  in. 
his  own  thoughts.  What  a  diversity  ;  the  countenance  of  each 
portraying  in  vivid  colors  the  hopes  and  fears  within.  Here, 
seated  by  one  of  the  main  pipes,  is  an  emaciated  form,  clothed 
in  rags ;  the  head  is  reclining  on  the  hand,  the  eye  sunken,  the 


A  NEW  PILOT — AGAIN   UNDER  WEIGH.  205 

visage  gtastly,  and  now  the  whole  frame  writhes  under  a  most 
distressing  cough.  A  few  short  months  have  done  their  work.  One 
year  ago,  a  stalwart,  robust,  enterprising  man,  full  of  life  and 
enthusiasm,  left  his  wife  and  children  to  seek  his  fortune  in  a 
distant  land.  He  reached  his  destination,  and  struggled  hard, 
his  prospects  alternating  between  hope  and  fear ;  still  he  strug- 
gled on  until  at  last  he  discovered  that  some  lurking  disease  was 
undermining  his  constitution.  The  approach  was  gradual,  but  it 
did  its  work.  The  victim  borrowed  money  and  sailed  for  home. 
He  is  before  me.  He  is  destined  to  clasp  to  his  bosom,  once 
more,  his  wife  and  children,  but  in  one  short  week  is  borne  to 
a  neighboring  church  yard. 

This  is  the  history  and  fate  of  more  than  one  of  our  passen- 
gers ;  we,  however,  have  many  on  board  who  are  returning  wdth 
robust  constitutions  and  well-filled  purses.  Their  countenances 
are  lighted  up  with  the  fond  anticipation  of  soon  being  restored 
to  those  whose  greeting  smile  and  warm  embrace  will  heal  the 
laceration  of  the  past. 

The  excitement  runs  high ;  there  is  a  prospect  of  reaching 
our  dock  by  10  o'clock.  As  we  approach  the  Farrows,  our 
steamer  suddenly  slackens  her  pace,  and  we  hear  a  cry  ^of 
"  aground."  Our  pilot  has  run  us  upon  the  shoals  of  Coney  Island : 
the  wheels  are  reversed,  but  we  are  fast ;  the  lead  is  thrown 
with  a  cry  of  "  three  fathoms  o'  the  deep  ho  !"  We  can  plainly 
see  the  light  of  the  city  looming  up  from  the  horizon,  but  the 
chances  are  against  us.  A  new  pilot  comes  on  board,  who  points 
out  the  channel ;  our  wheels  are  reversed,  our  tiller  put  hard 
down,  and  after  several  efforts,  we  are  afloat,  with  the  loss  of 
part  of  our  keel.  As  we  pass  through  the  Narrows,  our  pilot 
hands  us  the  morning  papers,  containing  a  detail  of  the  Hague 
street  disaster.  The  city  is  now  in  sight,  and  we  are  steaming 
along  with  lightning  speed ;  anxiety  most  intense.  We  near 
our  pier,  which  we  find  much  obstructed  by  ice ;  small  boats 
attempt  to  come  off  for  our  hawser,  but  we  are  obliged  to  steam 
over  toward  Jersey  City  and  come  up  again ;  this  time  we  suc- 
ceed, and  as  we  are  nearing  the  dock,  the  death  of  one  of  the  pas- 
sengers is  announced.  He  was  the  last  of  a  party  of  six  that 
had  embarked  for,  and  I  believe  the  only  one  of  the  party  who 


206  CALIFORXIA   ILLUSTRATED. 

lived  to  reach  California.     He  lost  liis  Lcaltli  soon  after  his  ar- 
rival there,  and  died  upon  reaching  his  native  shore. 

As  the  steamer  was  being  warped  around,  a  passenger  in  attempt- 
ing to  jump  to  the  pier,  missed  it,  and  fell  through  the  mass  of 
floating  ice  below.  He  soon  gained  the  surface,  but,  uttering  the 
most  heart-rending  screams,  again  disappeared.  He  was  event- 
ually rescued,  and  I  jumped  for  the  pier  with  better  success, 
and  stepping  into  a  hack,  was  rapidly  driven  in  the  direction  of 
Broadway.  It  is  now  midnight.  Thirteen  months  have  elapsed 
since  I  left,  and  for  the  last  six,  I  have  not  had  the  least  intelli- 
gence from  home.  My  feelings  can  better  be  imagined  than 
described,  as  I  pulled  the  bell  at  No.  3  Warren  street. 


One  word  to  those  about  to  embark  for  California.  Take  the 
least  possible  amount  of  baggage,  in  a  trunk  of  the  smallest  pos- 
sible size.  As  no  one  can  anticipate  the  circumstances  under 
which  they  may  be  placed  there,  nor  the  wants  of  a  life  in  Cali- 
fornia; it  is  recommended  to  buy  nothing  here,  as  purchases 
can  be  made  much  more  judiciously  in  San  Francisco,  and  other 
towns  in  Cahfornia,  and  at  about  as  fair  rates,  at  the  same  time 
saving  the  trouble  and  expense  of  transportation.  The  transit 
charges,  by  the  Nicaragua  route,  are  fifteen  cents  per  pound  ;  this 
is  invariably  extra,  even  if  one  has  a  transit  passage-ticket,  which 
are  issued  at  a  charge  of  about  $25.  A  limited  amount  of  bag- 
gage is  taken  down  the  Atlantic  and  up  the  Pacific  free,  but  not 
across.  Passengers  taking  the  Panama  route,  are  now  landed  at 
Aspinwall  (Navy  Bay),  thence  by  railroad  to  Miller's  Station, 
saving  thirty  miles  of  river  travel;  thence  in  a  row-boat  to 
Gorgona,  where  mules  are  stationed  in  abundance  to  transport  to 
Panama,  twenty-five  miles  distant.  Passengers  are  landed  on 
the  dock  at  Aspinwall,  free  of  charge,  the  transit  charges  being 
about  the  same  as  by  the  Nicaragua  route. 


CflMtitutiflti  nf  i^t  $hit  nf  Califnrtiia. 


PROCLAMATION  TO  THE  PEOPLE  OF  CALIFORNIA. 

The  delegates  of  the  people,  assembled  in  Convention,  have  formed  a  Con- 
stitution, which  is  now  presented  for  your  ratification.  The  time  and  manner 
of  voting  on  this  Constitution,  and  of  holding  the  first  general  election,  are 
clearly  set  forth  in  the  schedule.  The  whole  subject  is,  therefore,  left  for 
your  unbiassed  and  deliberate  consideration. 

The  Prefect  (or  person  exercising  the  functions  of  that  office)  of  each  dis- 
trict, will  designate  the  places  for  opening  the  polls,  and  give  due  notice  of  the 
election,  in  accordance  with  the  provisions  of  the  Constitution  and  schedule. 

The  people  are  now  called  upon  to  form  a  government  for  themselves,  and 
to  designate  such  officers  as  they  desire,  to  m^e  and  execute  the  laws.  That 
their  choice  may  be  wisely  made,  and  that  the  government  so  organized  may 
secure  the  permanent  welfare  and  happiness  of  the  people  of  the  new  State, 
is  the  sincere  and  earnest  wish  of  the  present  Executive,  who,  if  the  Consti- 
tution be  ratified,  will,  with  pleasure,  surrender  his  powers  to  whomsoever 
the  people  may  designate  as  his  successor. 

Given  at  Monterey,  California,  this  12th  day  of  October,  A.  D.,  1849. 
(Signed)  B.  EILE¥, 

Brevet  Brig.  General,  U.  S.  A.,  and  Governor  of  California. 
(Official)  H.  W.  HALLECK, 

Brevet  Captain  and  Secretary  of  State. 

We,  the  People  of  California,  grateful  to  Almighty  God  for  our  freedom,  in 
order  to  secure  its  hlessings,  do  establish  this  Constitution : 

ARTICLE  I. 

DECLARATION   OF   RIGHTS. 

Seo.  1 .  All  men  are  by  nature  free  and  independent,  and  have  certain  in- 
alienable rights,  among  which  are  those  of  enjoying  and  defending  life  and 
liberty,  acquiring,  possessing,  and  protecting  property,  and  pursuing  and  ob- 
taining safety  and  happiness. 

Sec.  2.  All  poHtical  power  is  inherent  in  the  people.  Government  is  insti- 
tuted for  the  protection,  security,  and  benefit  of  the  people ;  and  they  have 
the  right  to  alter  or  reform  the  same,  whenever  the  public  good  may  require  it. 

Sec.  3.  The  right  of  trial  by  jury  shall  be  secured  to  all,  and  remain  invio- 


208  COXSTITUTIOX   OF  THE   STATE   OF   CALIFORXIA. 

late  forever ;  but  a  jury  trial  may  be  waived  by  the  parties,  in  all  civil  cases, 
in  the  manner  to  be  prescribed  by  law. 

Sec.  4.  The  free  exercise  and  enjoyment  of  religious  profession  and  wor- 
ship, without  discrimination  or  preference,  shall  forever  be  allowed  in  this 
State ;  and  no  person  shall  be  rendered  incompetent  to  be  a  witness  on  account 
of  his  opinions  on  matters  of  religious  belief;  but  the  liberty  of  conscience, 
hereby  secured,  shall  not  be  so  construed  as  to  excuse  acts  of  licentiousness, 
or  justify  practices  inconsistent  with  the  peace  or  safety  of  this  State. 

Sec  5.  The  privilege  of  the  writ  of  habeas  corpus  shall  not  be  suspended, 
unless  when,  in  cases  of  rebelhon  or  invasion,  the  pubhc  safety  may  require 
its  suspension. 

Sec  6.  Excessive  bail  shall  not  be  required,  nor  excessive  fines  imposed, 
nor  shall  cruel  or  unusual  punishments  be  inflicted,  nor  shall  witnesses  be 
unreasonably  detained. 

Sec  7.  All  persons  shall  be  bailable  by  sufficient  sureties :  unless  for  capital 
offences,  when  the  proof  is  evident,  or  the  presumption  great. 

Sec.  8.  No  person  shall  be  held  to  answer  for  a  capital  or  otherwise  infa- 
mous crime  (except  in  cases  of  impeachment,  and  in  cases  of  militia  when  in 
actual  service,  and  the  land  and  naval  forces  in  time  of  war,  or  which  this 
State  may  keep  Arith  the  consent  of  Congress  in  time  of  peace,  and  in  cases 
of  petit  larceny  under  the  regulation  of  the  Legislature,)  unless  on  present- 
ment or  indictment  of  a  grancijury ;  and  in  any  trial  in  any  court  whatever, 
the  party  accused  shall  be  allowed  to  appear  and  defend  in  person  and  with 
counsel,  as  in  civil  actions.  No  person  shall  be  subject  to  be  twice  put  in 
jeopardy  for  the  same  offence ;  nor  shall  he  be  compelled,  in  any  criminal  case, 
to  be  a  witness  against  himself,  nor  be  deprived  of  life,  hberty,  or  property, 
without  due  process  of  law ;  nor  shall  private  property  be  taken  for  pubhc 
use  without  just  compensation.  • 

Sec.  9.  Every  citizen  may  freely  speak,  write,  and  publish  his  sentiments 
on  all  subjects,  being  responsible  for  the  abuse  of  that  right;  and  no  law  shall 
be  passed  to  restrain  or  abridge  the  liberty  of  speech  or  of  the  press.  In  all 
criminal  prosecutions  on  indictments  for  hbels,  the  truth  may  be  given  in  evi- 
dence to  the  jury ;  and  if  it  shall  appear  to  the  jury  that  the  matter  charged 
as  libellous  is  true,  and  was  published  with  good  motives  and  for  justifiable 
ends,  the  party  shall  be  acquitted :  and  the  jury  shall  have  the  right  to  deter- 
mine the  law  and  the  fact. 

Sec  10.  The  people  shall  have  the  right  fi^eely  to  assemble  together,  to 
consult  for  the  common  good,  to  instruct  their  representatives,  and  to  petition 
the  legislature  for  redress  of  grievances. 

Sec.  11.  All  laws  of  a  general  nature  shall  have  a  uniform  operation. 

Sec  12.  The  military  shall  be  subordinate  to  the  civil  power.  No  standing 
army  shall  be  kept  up  by  this  State  in  time  of  peace ;  and  in  time  of  war  no 
appropriation  for  a  standing  array  shall  be  for  a  longer  time  than  two  years. 

Sec  13.  No  soldier  shall,  in  time  of  peace,  be  quartered  in  any  house,  with- 
out the  consent  of  the  owner;  nor  in  time  of  war,  except  :q  the  manner  to 
be  prescribed  by  law. 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE   STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA.  209 

Sec.  14.  Representation  shall  be  apportioned  according  to  population. 

Sec.  15.  No  person  shall  be  imprisoned  for  debt,  in  any  civil  action  on 
mesne  or  final  process,  unless  in  cases  of  fraud ;  and  no  person  shall  be  impri- 
soned for  a  militia  fine  in  time  of  peace. 

Sec.  16.  No  bill  of  attainder,  ex  post  facto  law,  or  law  impairing  the  obliga- 
tion of  contracts,  shall  ever  be  passed. 

Sec.  17.  Foreigners  who  are,  or  who  may  hereafter  become,  lonafide  resi- 
dents of  this  State,  shall  enjoy  the  same  rights  in  respect  to  the  possession, 
enjoyment  and  inheritance  of  property,  as  native  born  citizens. 

Sec.  18.  Neither  slavery ,  nor  involuntary  servitude^  unless  for  the  punishment 
of  crimes^  shall  ever  he  tolerated  in  this  State. 

Sec.  19.  The  right  of  the  people  to  be  secure  in  their  persons,  houses,  papers, 
and  effects,  against  unreasonable  seizures  and  searches,  shall  not  be  violated ; 
and  now  arrant  shall  issue  but  on  probable  cause,  supported  by  oath  or  afl&rm- 
ation,  particularly  describing  the  place  to  be  searched,  and  the  persons  and 
things  to  be  seized. 

Sec.  20.  Treason  against  the  State  shall  consist  only  in  levying  war  against 
it,  adhering  to  its  enemies,  or  giving  them  aid  and  comfort.  No  person  shall 
be  convicted  of  treason,  unless  on  the  evidence  of  two  witnesses  to  the  same 
overt  act,  or  confession  in  open  court. 

Sec.  21.  This  enumeration  of  rights  shall  not  be  construed  to  impair  or 
deny  others  retained  by  the  people. 

ARTICLE  II. 

RIGHT   OF   SUFFRAGE. 

Sec.  1.  Every  white  male  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  every  white 
male  citizen  of  Mexico,  who  shall  have  elected  to  become  a  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  under  the  treaty  of  peace  exchanged  and  ratified  at  Queretaro, 
on  the  30th  day  of  May,  1848,  of  the  age  of  twenty-one  years,  who  shall 
have  been  a  resident  of  the  State  six  months  next  preceding  the  election,  and 
the  county  or  district  in  which  he  claims  his  vote  thirty  days,  shall  be  entitled 
to  vote  at  all  elections  which  are  now  or  hereafter  may  be  authorized  by  law : 
Provided,  that  nothing  herein  contained  shall  be  construed  to  prevent  the 
Legislature,  by  a  two-thirds  concurrent  vote,  from  admitting  to  the  right  of 
suffrage,  Indians  or  the  descendants  of  Indians,  in  such  special  cases  as  such 
a  proportion  of  the  legislative  body  may  deem  just  and  proper. 

Sec.  2.  Electors  shall,  on  all  cases  except  treason,  felony,  or  breach  of  the 
peace,  be  privileged  from  arrest  on  the  days  of  the  election,  during  their 
attendance  at  such  election,  going  to  and  returning  therefrom. 

Sec.  3.  No  elector  shall  be  obHged  to  perform  militia  duty  on  the  day  of 
election,  except  in  time  of  war  or  public  danger. 

Sec.  4.  For  the  purpose  of  voting,  no  person  shall  be  deemed  to  have  gained 
or  lost  a  residence  by  reason  of  his  presence  or  absence  while  employed  in 
the  service  of  the  United  Sta-tes;  nor  while  engaged  in  the  navigation  of  the 
waters  of  this  State,  or  of  the  United  States,  or  of  the  high  seas ;  nor  while 
a  student  of  any  seminary  of  learning ;  nor  while  kept  at  any  almshouse,. 
14 


210  CONSTITUTION   OF  THE  STATE   OF  CALIFOENIA. 

or  other  asylum,  at  public  expense;  nor  while  confined  in  any  public 
prison. 

Sec.  5.  No  idiot  or  insane  person,  or  person  convicted  of  any  infamous 
crime,  shall  be  entitled  to  the  privileges  of  an  elector. 

Sec  6.  All  elections  by  the  people  shall  be  by  ballot. 

ARTICLE  III. 

DISTRIBUTION    OF   POWERS.  » 

The  powers  of  the  government  of  the  State  of  California  shall  be  divided 
into  three  separate  departments :  the  Legislature,  the  Executive,  and  Judi- 
cial ;  and  no  person  charged  with  the  exercise  of  powers  properly  belonging 
to  one  of  these  departments,  shall  exercise  any  functions  appertaining  to  either 
of  the  others;  except  in  the  cases  hereinafter  expressly  directed  or  permitted. 

ARTICLE  TV. 

LEGISLATIVE   DEPARTMENT. 

Sec.  1.  The  legislative  power  of  this  State  shall  be  vested  in  a  Senate  and 
Assembly,  which  shall  be  designated  the  Legislature  of  the  State  of  California, 
and  the  enacting  clause  of  every  law  shall  be  as  follows :  "The  people  of  the 
State  of  California,  represented  in  Senate  and  Assembly,  do  enact  as  follows." 

Sec.  2.  The  sessions  of  the  Legislature  shall  be  annual,  and  shall  commence 
on  the  first  Monday  of  January,  next  ensuing  the  election  of  its  members ; 
unless  the  Governor  of  the  State  shall,  in  the  interim,  convene  the  Legislature 
by  proclamation. 

Sec  3.  The  members  of  the  Assembly  shall  be  chosen  annually,  by  the 
qualified  electors  of  their  respective  districts,  on  the  Tuesday  next  after  the 
first  Monday  in  November,  unless  otherwise  ordered  by  the  Legislature,  and 
their  term  of  office  shall  be  one  year. 

Sec  4.  Senators  and  members  of  Assembly  shaU  be  duly  quahfied  electors 
in  the  respective  counties  and  districts  which  they  represent. 

Sec  5.  Senators  shall  be  chosen  for  the  term  of  two  years,  at  the  same 
time  and  places  as  members  of  Assembly ;  and  no  person  shall  be  a  member 
of  the  Senate  or  Assembly,  who  has  not  been  a  citizen  and  inhabitant  of  the 
State  one  year,  and  of  the  county  or  district  for  which  he  shall  be  chosen,  six 
months  next  before  his  election. 

Sec  6.  The  number  of  Senators  shall  not  be  less  than  one-third,  nor  more 
than  one-half  of  that  of  the  members  of  Assembly  ;  and  at  the  first  session 
of  the  Legislature  after  this  Constitution  takes  eJBfect,  the  Senators  shall  be 
divided  by  lot  as  equally  as  may  be,  into  two  classes ;  the  seat-s  of  the  Sena- 
tors of  the  first  class  shall  be  vacated  at  the  expiration  of  the  first  year,  so 
that  one-half  shall  be  chosen  annually. 

Sec  7.  When  the  number  of  Senators  is  increased,  they  shall  be  apportioned 
by  lot,  so  as  to  keep  the  two  classes  as  nearly  equal  in  number  as  possible. 

Sec  8.  Each  house  shall  choose  its  own  officers,  and  judge  of  the  quahfi- 
cations,  elections,  and  returns  of  its  own  members. 

Sec  9.  A  majority  of  each  house  shall  constitute  a  quorum  to  do  business; 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE   STATE   OF  CALIFOENIA.  211 

but  a  smaller  number  may  adjourn  from  day  to  day,  and  may  compel  the 
attendance  of  absent  members,  in  such  manner,  and  under  such  penalties  as 
each  house  may  provide. 

Sec.  10.  Each  house  shall  determine  the  rules  of  its  own  proceedings,  and 
may  with  the  concurrence  of  two-thirds  of  all  the  members  elected,  expel  a 
member. 

Sec.  11.  Each  house  shall  keep  a  journal  of  its  own  proceedings,  and  pub- 
lish the  same ;  and  the  yeas  and  nays  of  the  members  of  either  house,  on 
any  question,  shall,  at  the  desire  of  any  three  members  present,  be  entered  on 
the  journal. 

Sec  12.  Members  of  the  Legislature  shall,  in  all  cases  except  treason,  felony, 
and  breach  of  the  peace,  be  privileged  from  arrest,  and  they  shall  not  be  sub- 
ject to  any  civil  process  during  the  session  of  the  Legislature,  nor  for  fifteen 
days  next  before  the  commencement  and  after  the  termination  of  each 
session. 

Sec.  13.  When  vacancies  occur  in  either  house,  the  Governor,  or  the  per- 
son exercising  the  functions  of  the  Governor,  shall  issue  writs  of  election  to 
fill  such  vacancies. 

Sec  14.  The  doors  of  each  house  shall  be  open,  except  on  such  occasions 
as  in  the  opinion  of  the  house  may  require  secrecy. 

Sec  15.  Neither  house  shall,  without  the  consent  of  the  other,  adjourn  for 
more  than  three  days,  nor  to  any  other  place  than  that  in  which  they  may  be 
sitting. 

Sec  16.  Any  bill  may  originate  in  either  house  of  the  Legislature,  and  aU 
bills  passed  by  one  house  may  be  amended  in  the  other. 

Sec  17.  Every  bill  which  may  have  passed  the  Legislature,  shall,  before  it 
becomes  a  law,  be  presented  to  the  Governor.  If  he  approve  it,  he  shall  sign 
it ;  but  if  not,  he  shall  return  it,  with  his  objections,  to  the  house  in  which  it 
originated,  which  shall  enter  the  same  upon  the  journal,  and  proceed  to  recon- 
sider it.  If,  after  such  reconsideration,  it  again  pass  both  houses,  by  yeas  and 
nays,  by  a  majority  of  two- thirds  of  the  members  of  each  house  present,  it 
shall  become  a  law,  notwithstanding  the  Governor's  objections.  If  any  bill 
shall  not  be  returned  within  ten  days  after  it  shall  have  been  presented  to 
him,  (Sunday  excepted,)  the  same  shall  be  a  law,  in  like  manner  as  if  he  had 
signed  it,  unless  the  Legislature,  by  adjournment,  prevent  such  return. 

Sec  18.  The  Assembly  shall  have  the  sole  power  of  impeachment;  and  aU 
impeachments  shall  be  tried  by  the  Senate.  When  sitting  for  that  purpose, 
the  Senators  shaU  be  upon  oath  or  affirmation ;  and  no  person  shall  be  con- 
victed without  the  concurrence  of  two-thirds  of  the  members  present. 

Sec  19.  The  Governor,  Lieutenant  Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Comp- 
troller, Treasurer,  Attorney  General,  Surveyor  General,  Justices  of  the  Su- 
preme Court  and  Judges  of  the  District  Courts,  shall  be  liable  to  impeachment 
for  any  misdemeanor  in  office ;  but  judgment  in  such  cases  shall  extend  only 
to  removal  from  office,  and  disqualification  to  hold  any  office  of  honor,  trust, 
or  profit,  under  the  State ;  but  the  party  convicted,  or  acquitted,  shall  never- 
theless be  hable  to  indictment,  trial  and  punishment,  according  to  law.    All 


212  CONSTITUTION   OF   THE   STATE   OF   CALIFORNIA. 

other  civil  officers  shall  be  tried  for  misdemeanors  in  office,  in  such  manner 
as  the  Legislature  may  provide. 

Sec.  20.  No  Senator  or  member  of  Assembly  shall,  during  the  term  for 
which  he  shall  have  been  elected,  be  appointed  to  any  civil  office  of  profit, 
under  this  State,  which  shall  have  been  created,  or  the  emoluments  of  which 
shall  have  been  increased,  during  such  term,  except  such  office  as  may  be 
filled  by  elections  by  the  people. 

Sec  21.  No  person  holding  any  lucrative  office  under  the  United  States, 
or  any  other  power,  shall  be  eligible  to  any  civil  office  of  profit,  under  this 
State ;  provided,  that  officers  in  the  militia,  to  which  there  is  attached  no 
annual  salary,  or  local  officers  and  postmasters  whose  compensation  does  not 
exceed  five  hundred  doUars  per  annum,  shall  not  be  deemed  lucrative. 

Sec.  22.  No  person  who  shall  be  convicted  of  the  embezzlement  or  defalca- 
tion of  the  public  funds  of  this  State,  shall  ever  be  ehgible  to  any  office  of 
honor,  trust,  or  profit,  under  the  State  ;  and  the  Legislature  shall,  as  soon  as 
practicable,  pass  a  law  providing  for  the  punishment  of  such  embezzlement, 
or  defalcation,  as  a  felony. 

Sec.  23.  No  money  shall  be  drawn  fi:om  the  Treasury  but  in  consequence 
of  appropriations  made  by  law.  An  accurate  statement  of  the  receipts  and 
expenditures  of  the  public  moneys  shaU  be  attached  to,  and  published  with, 
the  laws,  at  every  regular  session  of  the  Legislature. 

Sec.  24.  The  members  of  the  Legislature  shall  receive  for  their  services,  a 
compensation  to  be  fixed  by  law,  and  paid  out  of  the  pubUc  treasury ;  but  no 
increase  of  the  compensation  shall  take  effect  during  the  term  for  which  the 
members  of  either  house  shall  have  been  elected. 

Sec  25.  Every  law  enacted  by  the  Legislature,  shall  embrace  but  one 
object,  and  that  shall  be  expressed  in  the  title  :  and  no  law  shall  be  revised, 
or  amended,  by  reference  to  its  title  ;  but  in  such  case,  the  act  revised,  or  sec- 
tion amended,  shall  be  re-enacted  and  published  at  length. 
Sec  26.  No  divorce  shall  be  granted  by  the  Legislature. 
Sec.  27.  No  lottery  shall  be  authorized  by  this  State,  nor  shall  the  sale  of 
lottery  tickets  be  allowed. 

Sec  28.  The  enumeration  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  State  shall  be  taken, 
under  the  direction^of  the  Legislature,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight  him- 
dred  and  fifty-two,  and  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty-five,  and  at  the 
end  of  every  ten  years  thereafter ;  and  these  enumerations,  together  with  the 
census  that  may  be  taken,  under  the  direction  of  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  in  the  year  one  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty,  and  every  subse- 
quent ten  years,  shall  serve  as  the  basis  of  representation  in  both  houses  of 
the  Legislature. 

Sec  29.  The  number  of  Senators  and  members  of  Assembly,  shall,  at  the 
first  session  of  the  Legislature,  holden  after  the  enumerations  herein  provided 
for  are  made,  be  fi^ed  by  the  Legislature,  and  apportioned  among  the  several 
counties  and  districts  to  be  estabhshed  by  law,  according  to  the  number  of 
white  inhabitants.  The  number  of  members  of  Assembly  shall  not  be  less 
than  twenty-four,  nor  more  than  thirty-six,  until  the  number  of  inhabitants 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE   STATE   OF  CALIFOENIA.  213 

within  tMs  State  shall  amount  to  one  hundred  thousand ;  and  after  that 
period,  at  such  ratio  that  the  whole  number  of  members  of  Assembly  shall 
never  be  less  than  thirty,  nor  more  than  eighty. 

■  Sec.  30.  When  a  congressional,  senatorial,  or  assembly  district,  shall  be 
composed  of  two  or  more  counties,  it  shall  not  be  separated  by  any  county 
belonging  to  another  district ;  and  no  county  shall  be  divided,  in  forming  a 
congressional,  senatorial,  or  assembly  district. 

Sec.  31.  Corporations  may  be  formed  under  general  laws,  but  shall  not  be 
created  by  special  act,  except  for  municipal  purposes.  All  general  laws  an^ 
special  acts  passed  pursuant  to  this  section  may  be  altered  from  time  to  time, 
or  repealed. 

Sec.  32.  Dues  from  corporations  shall  be  secured  by  such  individual  liability 
of  the  corporators,  and  other  means,  as  may  be  prescribed  by  law. 

Sec.  33.  The  term  corporations,  as  used  in  this  article,  shall  be  construed 
to  include  all  associations  and  joint-stock  companies,  having  any  of  the  powers 
or  privileges  of  corporations  not  possessed  by  individuals  or  partnerships. 
And  all  corporations  shall  have  the  right  to  sue,  and  shall  be  subject  to  be 
sued,  in  all  courts,  in  like  cases  as  natural  persons. 

Sec.  34.  The  Legislature  shall  have  no  power  to  pass  any  act  granting  any 
charter  for  banking  purposes;  but  associations  may  be  formed  under  general 
laws,  for  the  deposit  of  gold  and  silver  ;  but  no  such  association  shall  make, 
issue,  or  put  in  circulation,  any  bill,  check,  tickets,  certificate,  promissory  note, 
or  other  paper,  or  the  paper  of  any  bank,  to  circulate  as  money. 

Sec.  35.  The  Legislature  of  this  State  shall  prohibit,  by  law,  any  person  or 
persons,  association,  company,  or  corporation,  from  exercising  the  privileges 
of  banking,  or  creating  paper  to  circulate  as  money. 

Sec.  36.  Each  stockholder  of  a  corporation,  or  joint- stock  association,  shall 
be  individually  and  personally  liable  for  his  proportion  of  aU  its  debts  and 
liabilities. 

Sec,  37.  It  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  Legislature  to  provide  for  the  organi- 
zation of  cities  and  incorporated  villages,  and  to  restrict  their  power  of  taxa- 
tion, assessment,  borrowing  money,  contracting  debts,  and  loaning  their 
credit,  so  as  to  prevent  abuses  in  assessments,  and  in  contracting  debts  by 
such  municipal  corporations. 

Sec.  38.  In  all  elections  by  the  Legislature,  the  members  thereof  shall  vote 
mva  voce^  and  the  votes  shall  be  entered  on  the  journal 

ARTICLE  Y. 

executive  department. 

Sec.  1.  The  supreme  executive  power  of  this  State  shall  be  vested  in  a 
chief  magistrate,  who  shall  be  styled  the  Governor  of  the  State  of  California. 

Sec.  2.  The  Governor  shall  be  elected  by  the  qualified  electors,  at  the  time 
and  places  of  voting  for  members  of  Assembly,  and  shall  hold  his  office  two 
years  from  the  time  of  his  installation,  and  until  his  successor  shall  be 
qualified. 

Sec.  3.  Ko  person  shall  be  eligible  to  the  office  of  Governor,  (except  at  the 


214  CONSTITUTION"   OF  THE   STATE   OF   CALIFOEXIA. 

first  election,)  who  has  not  been  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  and  a  resident 
of  this  State  two  years  next  preceding  the  election,  and  attained  the  age  of 
twenty-five  years  at  the  time  of  said  election. 

Sec.  4.  The  returns  of  every  election  for  Governor  shall  be  sealed  up  and 
transmitted  to  the  seat  of  government,  directed  to  the  Speaker  of  the  Assem- 
bly, who  shall,  during  the  first  week  of  the  session,  open  and  publish  them 
in  presence  of  both  houses  of  the  legislature.  The  person  having  the  highest 
number  of  votes  shall  be  Governor;  but  in  case  any  two  or  more  have  an 
equal  and  the  highest  number  of  votes,  the  Legislature  shall,  by  joint-vote 
of  both  houses,  choose  one  of  said  persons,  so  having  an  ec|ual  and  the  highest 
number  of  votes,  for  Governor. 

Sec.  5.  The  Governor  shall  be  commander-in-chief  of  the  miUtia,  the  army, 
and  navy,  of  this  State. 

Sec.  6.  He  shall  transact  all  executive  business  with  the  officers  of  govern- 
ment, civil  and  mihtary,  and  may  require  information  in  writing  from  the 
officers  of  the  executive  department,  upon  any  subject  relating  to  the  duties 
of  the  respective  offices. 

Sec  7.  He  shall  see  that  the  laws  are  faithfully  executed. 

Sec.  8.  When  any  office  shall,  from  any  cause  become  vacant,  and  no  mode 
is  provided  by  the  constitution  and  laws  for  filUng  such  vacancy,  the  Gover- 
nor shall  have  power  to  fill  such  vacancy  by  granting  a  commission,  which 
shall  expire  at  the  end  of  the  next  session  of  the  Legislature,  or  at  the  next 
election  by  the  people. 

Sec.  9.  He  may,  on  extraordinary  occasions,  convene  the  Legislature  by 
proclamation,  and  shall  state  to  both  houses,  when  assembled,  the  purpose 
for  which  they  shall  have  been  convened. 

Sec.  10.  He  shall  communicate  by  message  to  the  Legislature,  at  every 
session,  the  condition  of  the  State,  and  recommend  such  matters  as  he  shall 
deem  expedient. 

Sec  11.  In  case  of  a  disagreement  between  the  two  houses,  with  respect 
to  the  time  of  adjournment,  the  Governor  shall  have  power  to  adjourn  the 
Legislature  to  such  time  as  he  may  think  proper;  Provided  it  be  not  beyond 
the  time  fixed  for  the  meeting  of  the  next  Legislature. 

Sec  12.  No  person  shall,  while  holding  any  office  under  the  United  States, 
or  this  State,  exercise  the  office  of  Governor,  except  as  hereinafter  expressly 
provided. 

Sec  13.  The  Governor  shall  have  the  power  to  grant  reprieves  and  par- 
dons, after  conviction,  for  all  ofiences  except  treason,  and  cases  of  impeach- 
ment, upon  such  conditions,  and  with  such  restrictions  and  limitations,  as  he 
may  think  proper,  subject  to  such  regulations  as  may  be  provided  by  law 
relative  to  the  manner  of  applying  for  pardons.  Upon  conviction  for  treason 
he  shall  have  the  power  to  suspend  the  execution  of  the  sentence  until  the 
case  shall  be  reported  to  the  Legislature  at  its  next  meeting,  when  the  Legis- 
lature shall  either  pardon,  direct  the  execution  of  the  sentence,  or  grant  a 
further  reprieve.  He  shall  communicate  to  the  Legislature,  at  the  beginning 
of  every  session,  every  case  of  reprieve,  or  pardon  granted,  stating  the  name 


CONSTITUTION  OF   THE   STATE   OF   CALIFORNIA.  215 

of  the  convict,  the  crime  of  which  he  was  convic.c'd,  the  sentence  and  its 
date,  and  the  date  of  the  pardon  or  reprieve. 

Sec.  14.  There  shall  be  a  seal  of  this  State,  which  shall  be  kept  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, and  used  by  him  officially,  and  it  shall  be  called  "  The  great  seal  of  the 
State  of  California." 

Sec  15.  All  grants  and  commissions  shall  be  in  the  name  and  by  the  autho- 
rity of  the  people  of  the  State  of  California,  sealed  Avith  the  great  seal  of  the 
State,  signed  by  the  Grovernor,  and  countersigned  by  the  Secretary  of  State. 

Sec.  16.  A  Lieutenant  Governor  shall  be  elected  at  the  same  time  and 
place,  and  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Governor ;  and  his  term  of  office,  and 
his  qualifications  of  eligibility,  shall  also  be  the  same.  He  shall  be  President 
of  the  Senate,  but  shall  only  have  a  casting  vote  therein.  If,  during  a  vacancy 
of  the  office  of  Governor,  the  Lieutenant  Governor  shall  be  impeached,  dis- 
placed, resign,  die,  or  become  incapable  of  performing  the  duties  of  his  office, 
or  be  absent  from  the  State,  the  President  of  the  Senate  shall  act  as  Governor, 
until  the  vacancy  be  filled,  or  the  disability  shall  cease. 

Sec.  17.  In  case  of  the  impeachment  of  the  Governor,  or  his  removal  from 
office,  death,  inability  to  discharge  the  powers  and  duties  of  the  said  office, 
resignation  or  absence  from  the  State,  the  powers  and  duties  of  the  office 
shall  devolve  upon  the  Lieutenant  Governor  for  the  residue  of  the  term,  or 
until  the  disability  shall  cease.  But  when  the  Governor  shall,  with  the  con- 
sent of  the  Legislature,  be  out  of  the  State  in  time  of  war,  at  the  head  of 
any  military  force  thereof,  he  shall  continue  commander-in-chief  of  all  the 
military  force  of  the  State. 

Sec.  18.  A  Secretary  of  State,  a  Comptroller,  a  Treasurer,  an  Attorney 
General  and  Surveyor  General,  shall  be  chosen  in  the  manner  provided  in 
this  Constitution ;  and  the  term  of  office,  and  ehgibihty  of  each,  shall  be  the 
same  as  are  prescribed  for  the  Governor  and  Lieutenant  Governor. 

Sec.  19.  The  Secretary  of  State  shall  be  appointed  by  the  Governor,  by 
and  with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate.  He  shall  keep  a  fair  record 
of  the  official  acts  of  the  Legislative  and  Executive  Departments  of  the  gov- 
ernment; and  shall,  when  required,  lay  the  same,  and  all  matters  relative 
thereto,  before  either  branch  of  the  Legislature:  and  shall  perform  such  other 
duties  as  shall  be  assigned  him  by  law. 

Sec.  20.  The  Comptroller,  Treasurer,  Attorney  General  and  Surveyor  Gene- 
ral, shall  be  chosen  by  joint  vote  of  the  two  houses  of  the  Legislature,  at  their 
first  session  under  this  Constitution,  and  thereafter  shall  be  elected  at  the 
same  time  and  places,  and  in  the  same  manner,  as  the  Governor  and  Lieu- 
tenant Governor. 

Sec.  21.  The  Governor,  Lieutenant  Governor,  Secretary  of  State,  Comp- 
troller, Treasurer,  Attorney  General,  and  Surveyor  General,  shall  each  at 
stated  times  during  their  continuance  in  office,  receive  for  their  services  a 
compensation,  which  shall  not  be  increased  or  diminished  during  the  term  for 
which  they  shall  have  been  elected ;  but  neither  of  these  officers  shall  receive 
for  his  own  use  any  fees  for  the  performance  of  his  official  duties. 


216        coxsTiTunox  of  the  ctate  of  califorxia. 

ARTICLE  n. 

JUDICIAL   DEPARTiJZXT. 

Sec.  1.  The  judicial  power  of  this  State  shall  be  vested  in  a  Supreme 
Court,  in  District  Courts,  in  County  Courts,  and  in  Justices  of  the  Peace. 
The  Legislature  may  also  estabUsh  such  municipal  and  other  inferior  courts  as 
may  be  deemed  necessary. 

Sec  2.  The  Supreme  Court  shall  consist  of  a  Chief  Justice,  and  two  Asso- 
ciate Justices,  any  two  of  whom  shall  constitute  a  quorum. 

Szc.  3.  The  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court  shall  be  elected  at  the  general 
election,  by  the  qualified  electors  of  the  State,  and  shall  hold  their  office  for 
the  term  of  six  years  from  the  first  day  of  January  next  after  their  election ; 
provided  that  the  Legislature  shall,  at  its  first  meeting,  elect  a  Chief  Justice 
and  two  Associate  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  by  joint  vote  of  both 
houses,  and  so  classify  them  :*  iat  one  shall  go  out  of  office  every  two  years. 
After  the  first  election,  the  senior  Justice  in  commission  shall  be  the  Chief 
Justice. 

Sec  4.  The  Supreme  Court  shall  have  appellate  jurisdiction  in  all  cases 
when  the  matter  in  dispute  exceeds  two  hundred  dollars,  when  the  legahty 
of  any  tax,  toll,  or  impost  or  municipal  fine  is  in  question :  and  in  all  criminal 
cases  amounting  to  felony,  or  questions  of  law  alone.  And  the  said  court, 
and  each  of  the  Justices  thereof,  as  well  as  all  district  and  county  judges, 
shall  have  power  to  issue  writs  of  habeas  corpus,  at  the  instance  of  any  per- 
son held  in  actual  custody.  They  shall  also  have  power  to  issue  all  other 
writs  and  process  necessary  to  the  exercise  of  the  appellate  jurisdiction,  and 
shall  be  conservators  of  the  peace  throughout  the  State. 

Sec.  5.  The  State  shall  be  divided  by  the  first  Legislatture  into  a  convenient 
number  of  districts,  subject  to  such  alteration  from  time  to  time  as  the  pub- 
lic good  may  require ;  for  each  of  which  a  district  judge  shall  be  appointed 
by  the  joint  vote  of  the  legislature,  at  its  first  meeting,  who  shall  hold  his 
office  for  two  years  from  the  first  day  of  January  next  after  his  election ; 
after  which,  said  judges  shall  be  elected  by  the  quahfied  electors  of  their 
respective  districts,  at  the  general  election,  and  shall  hold  their  office  for  the 
term  of  six  years. 

Sec.  6.  The  District  Courts  shall  have  original  jurisdiction,  in  law  and 
equity,  in  aU  civil  cases  where  the  amount  in  dispute  exceeds  two  hundred 
dollars,  exclusive  of  interest.  In  all  criminal  cases  not  otherwise  provided 
for,  and  in  all  issues  of  fact  joined  in  the  probate  courts,  their  jurisdiction 
shall  be  unlimited- 

Sec  7.  The  legislature  shall  provide  for  the  election,  by  the  people,  of  a 
Clerk  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  County  Clerks,  District  Attorneys,  Sheriffs, 
Coroners,  and  other  necessary  officers ;  and  shall  fix  by  law  their  duties  and 
compensation.  County  Clerks  shall  be,  ex-o£icio,  Clerks  of  the  District  Courts 
in  and  for  their  respective  counties. 

Sec  8.  There  shall  be  elected  in  each  of  the  organized  counties  of  this  State, 
one  County  Judge  who  shall  hold  his  office  for  four  years.  He  shall  hold  the 
County  Court,  and  perform  the  duties  of  Surrogate,  or  Probate  Judge.    The 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA.  217 

County  Judge,  with  two  Justices  of  the  Peace,  to  be  designated  according  to 
law,  shall  hold  courts  of  sessions,  with  such  criminal  jurisdiction  as  the  Legis- 
lature shall  prescribe,  and  he  shall  perform  such  other  duties  as  shall  be  re- 
quired by  law. 

Sec.  9.  The  County  Courts  shall  have  such  jurisdiction,  in  cases  arising  in 
Justices  Courts,  and  in  special  cases,  as  the  Legislature  may  prescribe,  but 
shall  have  no  original  civil  jurisdiction,  except  in  such  special  cases. 

Sec.  10.  The  times  and  places  of  holding  the  terms  of  the  Supreme  Court, 
and  the  general  and  special  terms  of  the  District  Courts  within  the  several 
districts,  shall  be  p/ovided  for  by  law. 

Sec  11.  No  judicial  oJBS.cer,  except  a  Justice  of  the  Peace,  shall  receive,  to 
his  own  use,  any  fees,  or  perquisites  of  office. 

Sec.  12.  The  Legislature  shall  provide  for  the  speedy  pubUcation  of  all 
statute  laws,  and  of  such  judicial  decisions  as  it  may  deem  expedient;  andaU 
laws  and  judicial  decisions  shall  be  free  for  pubhcation  by  any  person. 

Sec  13.  Tribunals  for  conciHation  may  be  estabhshed,  with  such  powers 
and  duties  as  may  be  prescribed  by  law ;  but  such  tribunals  shall  have  no 
power  to  render  judgment  to  be  obligatory  on  the  parties,  except  they  vol- 
untarily submit  their  matters  in  difference,  and  agree  to  abide  the  judgment, 
or  assent  thereto  in  the  presence  of  such  tribunal,  in  such  cases  as  shall  be 
prescribed  by  law. 

Sec.  14.  The  Legislature  shall  determine  the  number  of  Justices  of  the 
Peace,  to  be  elected  in  each  county,  city,  town,  and  incorporated  village  of 
the  State,  and  fix  by  law  their  powers,  duties,  and  responsibilities.  It  shall 
also  determine  in  what  cases  appeals  may  be  made  from  Justices'  Courts  to 
the  County  Court. 

Sec  15.  The  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court,  and  Judges  of  the  District 
Court,  shall  severally,  at  stated  times  during  their  continuance  in  office,  re- 
ceive for  their  services  a  compensation,  to  be  paid  out  of  the  treasury,  which 
shall  not  be  increased  or  diminished  during  the  term  for  which  they  shall 
have  been  elected..  The  county  Judges  shall  also  severally,  at  stated  times, 
receive  for  their  services  a  compensation  to  be  paid  out  of  the  county  trea- 
sury of  their  respective  counties,  which  shall  not  be  increased  or  diminished 
during  the  term  for  which  they  shall  have  been  elected. 

Sec  16.  The  Justices  of  the  Supreme  Court  and  District  Judges  shall  be 
ineligible  to  any  other  office,  during  the  term  for  which  they  shall  have  been 
elected. 

Sec  17.  Judges  shall  not  charge  juries  with  respect  to  matters  of  fact,  but 
may  state  the  testimony  and  declare  the  law. 

Sec  18.  The  style  of  all  process  shall  be  "  The  People  of  the  State  of  Cali- 
fornia ;"  all  the  prosecutions  shall  be  conducted  in  the  name  and  by  the  au- 
thority of  the  same. 

ARTICLE  YIL 

MILITIA. 

Sec.  1.  The  legislature  shall  provide  by  law.  for  organizing  and  discipKning 


21$  COXSTITUTIOX   OF   TH2   STATE   OF   CALIFORXIA. 

the  u.i'/!::;!.,  in  such  manner  as  ihev  shall  deem  expedient,  not  incompatible 
wi:h  I'ne  consiituuon  and  laws  of  the  United  States. 

Sec  2.  Officers  of  the  militia  shall  be  elected  or  appointed,  in  such  manner 
as  the  legislature  shall  fix3m  time  to  time  direct ;  and  shall  be  commissioned 
by  the  governor. 

Sec.  3.  The  governor  shall  have  power  to  call  forth  the  militia,  to  execute 
the  laws  of  the  State,  to  suppress  insurrections  and  repel  invasions. 

ARTICLE  Tin. 

STATE   DEBTS. 

The  Le^slature  shall  not  in  any  manner  create  any  debt  or  debts,  hability 
or  liabilities,  which  shall  singly,  or  in  the  aggregate,  with  any  previous  debts 
or  liabilities,  exceed  the  sum  of  three  hundred  thousands  dollars,  except  in 
case  of  war,  to  repel  invasion,  or  suppress  insurrection,  unless  the  same  shall 
be  authorized  by  some  law  for  some  single  object  or  work,  to  be  distinctly 
specified  therein,  which  law  shall  provide  ways  and  means,  exclusive  of  loans, 
for  the  payment  of  the  interest  of  such  debt  or  liability,  as  it  falls  due,  and 
also  pay  and  discharge  the  principal  of  such  debt  or  liability  within  twenty 
years  from  the  time  of  the  contracting  thereof  and  shall  be  irrepealable  until 
the  principal  and  interest  thereon  shall  be  paid  and  discharged  ;  but  no  such 
law  shall  take  effect  until,  at  a  general  election,  it  shall  have  been  submitted 
to  the  people,  and  have  received  a  majority  of  all  the  votes  cast  for  and  against 
it  at  such  election ;  and  all  money  raised  by  authority  of  such  law  shall  be 
applied  only  to  the  specific  object  therein  stated,  or  to  the  payment  of  the 
debt  thereby  created ;  and  such  law  shall  be  published  in  at  least  one  news- 
paper in  each  judicial  district,  if  one  be  published  therein,  throughout  the 
State,  for  three  months  next  preceding  the  election  at  which  it  is  submitted 
to  the  people. 

ARTICLE  IX. 

EDUCATIOX. 

Sec.  1.  The  Legislature  shall  provide  for  the  election,  by  the  people,  of  a 
Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction,  who  shall  hold  his  office  for  three  years, 
and  whose  duties  shall  be  prescribed  by  law,  and  who  shall  receive  such  com- 
pensation as  the  Legislature  may  directs 

Sec  2.  The  Legislature  shall  encourage,  by  all  suitable  means,  the  promo- 
tion of  intellectual,  scientific,  moral  and  agricultural  improvement  The  pro- 
ceeds of  all  lands  that  may  be  granted  by  the  United  States  to  this  State  for 
the  support  of  schools,  which  may  be  sold  or  disposed  of.  and  the  five  hun- 
dred thousand  acres  of  land  granted  to  the  new  States,  under  an  act  of  Con- 
gress distributing  the  proceeds  of  the  pubHc  lands  among  the  several  States 
of  the  Union,  approved  A.  D.  1841 ;  and  all  estates  of  deceased  persons  who 
may  have  died  without  leaving  a  will,  or  heir,  and  also  such  per  cent  as  may 
be  granted  by  Congress  on  the  sale  of  lands  in  this  State,  shall  be  and  remain 
a  perpetual  fimd,  the  interest  of  which,  together  with  all  the  rents  of  the 
unsold  lands,  and  such  other  means  as  the  Legislature  may  provide,  shall  be 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA.  219 

inviolably  appropriated  to  the  support  of  Common  Schools  throughout  the 
State. 

Sfc.  3.  The  Legislature  shall  provide  for  a  system  of  Common  Schools,  by 
which  a  school  shall  be  kept  up  and  supported  in  each  district  at  least  three 
months  in  every  year :  and  any  school  district  neglecting  to  keep  up  and 
support  such  a  school,  may  be  deprived  of  its  proportion  of  the  interest  of 
the  public  fund  during  such  neglect. 

Sec.  4.  The  Legislature  shall  take  measures  for  the  protection,  improvement, 
or  other  disposition  of  such  lands  as  have  been,  or  may  hereafter  be,  reserved 
or  granted  by  the  United  States,  or  any  person  or  persons  to  this  State  for 
the  use  of  a  University ;  and  the  funds  accruing  from  the  rents  or  sale  of 
such  lands,  or  from  any  other  source,  for  the  purpose  aforesaid,  shall  be  and 
remain  a  permanent  fund,  the  interest  of  which  shall  be  appHed  to  the  sup- 
port of  said  university,  with  such  branches  as  the  public  convenience  may 
demand  for  the  promotion  of  Hterature,  the  arts  and  sciences,  as  may  be 
authorized  by  the  terms  of  such  grant.  And  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the 
Legislature,  as  soon  as  may  be,  to  provide  effectual  means  for  the  improve- 
ment and  permanent  security  of  the  funds  of  said  University. 

ARTICLE  X. 

MODE  OF  AMENDING  AND  REVISING  THE  CONSTITUTION. 

Sec.  1.  Any  amendment  or  amendments  to  this  constitution  may  be  proposed 
in  the  Senate  or  Assembly  ;  and  if  the  same  shall  be  agreed  to  by  a  majority 
of  the  members  elected  to  each  of  the  two  houses,  such  proposed  amendment 
or  amendments  shall  be  entered  on  their  journals,  with  the  yeas  and  nays 
taken  thereon,  and  referred  to  the  Legislature  then  next  to  be  chosen,  and 
shall  be  published  for  three  months  next  preceding  the  time  of  making  such 
choice.  And  if,  in  the  Legislature  next  chosen,  as  aforesaid,  such  proposed 
amendment  or  amendments  shall  be  agreed  to  by  a  majority  of  all  the  mem- 
bers elected  to  each  house,  then  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the  Legislature  to 
submit  such  proposed  amendment  or  amendments  to  the  people,  in  such  man- 
ner, and  at  such  time,  as  the  Legislature  shall  prescribe ;  and  if  the  people 
shall  approve  and  ratify  such  amendment  or  amendments,  by  a  majority  of 
the  electors  quahfied  to  vote  for  members  of  the  Legislature  voting  thereon, 
such  amendment  or  amendments  shall  become  part  of  the  Constitution. 

Sec.  2.  And  if,  at  any  time,  two-thirds  of  the  Senate  and  Assembly  shall 
think  it  necessary  to  revise  and  change  this  entire  Constitution,  they  shall 
recommend  to  the  electors,  at  the  next  election  for  members  of  the  Legisla- 
ture, to  vote  for  or  against  the  convention ;  and  if  it  shall  appear  that  a  majority 
of  the  electors  voting  at  such  election  have  voted  in  favor  of  calling  a  con- 
vention, the  Legislature  shall,  at  its  next  session,  provide  by  law  for  calling  a 
convention,  to  be  holden  within  six  months  after  the  passage  of  such  law ;  and 
such  convention  shall  consist  of  a  number  of  members  not  less  than  that  of 
both  branches  of  the  Legislature. 

ARTICLE  XI. 

MISCELLANEOUS   PROVISIONS. 

Sec.  1.  The  first  session  of  the  Legislature  shall  be  held  at  the  Pueblo  de 


220  COXSTITUTIOX  OF  THE   STATE   OF  CALIFORXIA. 

San  Jose,  which  place  shall  be  the  permanent  seat  of  goverment,  until  re- 
moved by  law ;  provided,  however,  that  two-thirds  of  all  the  members  elected 
to  each  house  of  the  Legislature  shall  concur  in  the  passage  of  such  law. 

Sec.  2.  Any  citizen  of  this  State  who  shall,  after  the  adoption  of  this  con- 
stitution, fight  a  duel  with  deadly  weapons,  or  send  or  accept  a  challenge  to 
fight  a  duel  with  deadly  weapons,  either  within  the  State  or  out  of  it ;  or  who 
shall  act  as  second,  or  knowingly  aid  or  assist  in  any  manner  those  thus 
ofiending,  shall  not  be  allowed  to  hold  any  office  of  profit,  or  to  enjoy  the 
right  of  sufirage  under  this  Constitution. 

Sec.  3.  Members  of  the  Legislature,  and  all  officers,  executive  and  judicial, 
except  such  inferior  officers  as  may  be  by  law  exempted,  shall,  before  they 
enter  on  the  duties  of  their  respective  offices,  take  and  subscribe  the  following 
oath  or  affirmation. 

''  I  do  solemnly  swear  (or  affirm,  as  the  case  may  be,)  that  I  will  support 
the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  and  the  constitution  of  the  State  of  Cali- 
fornia ;  and  that  I  will  faithfully  discharge  the  duties  of  the  office  of , 

according  to  the  best  of  my  ability."  And  no  other  oath,  declaration,  or  test, 
shaU  be  required  as  a  qualification  for  any  office  or  public  trust. 

Sec.  4.  The  Legislature  shall  establish  a  system  of  county  and  town  gov- 
ernments, which  shall  be  as  nearly  uniform  as  practicable,  throughout  the 
State. 

Sec.  5.  The  Legislature  shall  have  power  to  provide  for  the  election  of  a 
board  of  supervisors  in  each  county ;  and  these  supervisors  shall,  jointly  and 
individually,  perform  such  duties  as  may  be  prescribed  by  law. 

Sec  6.  All  officers  whose  election  or  appointment  is  not  provided  for  by 
this  constitution,  and  all  officers  whose  offices  may  hereafter  be  created  by 
law,  shall  be  elected  by  the  people,  or  appointed  as  the  Legislature  may 
direct. 

Sec.  7.  When  the  duration  of  any  office  is  not  provided  for  by  this  consti- 
tution, it  may  be  declared  by  law ;  and  if  not  so  declared,  such  office  shall  be 
held  during  the  pleasure  of  the  authority  making  the  appointment ;  nor  shall 
the  duration  of  any  office,  not  fixed  by  this  constitution,  ever  exceed  four  years. 

Sec  8.  The  fiscal  year  shall  commence  on  the  first  day  of  July. 

Sec  9.  Each  county,  town,  city  and  incorporated  village,  shall  make  pro- 
vision for  the  support  of  its  own  officers,  subject  to  such  restrictions  and  regu- 
lations as  the  Legislature  may  prescribe. 

Sec  10.  The  credit  of  the  State  shall  not  in  any  manner  be  given  or  loaned 
to,  or  in  aid  of,  any  individual,  association  or  corporation ;  nor  shall  the 
State,  directly  or  indirectly,  become  a  stockholder  in  any  association  or  cor- 
poration. 

Sec  11.  Suits  may  be  brought  against  the  State,  in  such  manner,  and  in  such 
courts,  as  shall  be  directed  by  law. 

Sec  12.  ITo  contract  of  marriage,  if  otherwise  duly  made,  shall  be  invali- 
dated, for  want  of  conformity  to  the  requirements  of  any  religious  sect. 

Sec  13.  Taxation  shall  be  equal  and  uniform  throughout  the  State.  All 
property,  in  this  State,  shall  be  taxed  in  proportion  to  its  value,  to  be  ascer- 
tained as  directed  by  law;  but  assessors  and  collectors  of  town,  county  and 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  STATE  OF  CALIFOKNIA.  221 

State  taxes,  shall  be  elected  by  the  qualified  electors  of  the  district,  county  or 
town,  in  which  the  property  taxed  for  State,  county  or  town  purposes  is 
situated. 

Sec.  14.  All  property,  both  real  and  personal,  of  the  wife,  owned  or  claimed 
by  her  before  marriage,  and  that  acquired  afterwards  by  gift,  devise  or  de- 
scent, shall  be  her  separate  property ;  and  laws  shall  be  passed  more  clearly 
defining  the  rights  of  the  wife,  in  relation  as  well  to  her  separate  property,  as 
to  that  held  in  common  with  her  husband.  Laws  shall  also  be  passed  pro- 
viding for  the  registration  of  the  wife's  separate  property. 

Sec.  15.  The  Legislature  shall  protect  by  law,  from  forced  sale,  a  certain 
portion  of  the  homestead  and  other  property  of  all  heads  of  famihes. 

Sec.  16.  No  perpetuities  shall  be  allowed,  except  for  eleemosynary  pur- 


Sec.  17.  Every  person  shall  be  disqualified  fi:'om  holding  any  o^ce  of  profit 
in  this  State,  who  shall  have  been  convicted  of  having  given  or  offered  a  bribe, 
to  procure  his  election  or  appointment. 

Sec.  18.  Laws  shall  be  made  to  exclude  from  office,  serving  on  juries,  and 
from  the  right  of  suffrage,  those  who  shall  hereafter  be  convicted  of  bribery, 
perjury,  forgery,  or  other  high  crimes.  The  privilege  of  free  suffrage  shall  be 
supported  by  laws  regulating  elections,  and  prohibiting,  under  adequate  penal- 
ties, all  undue  influence  thereon,  from  power,  bribery,  tumult,  or  other  im- 
proper practice. 

Sec.  19.  Absence  from  this  State  on  business  of  the  State,  or  of  the  United 
States,  shall  not  affect  the  question  of  residence  of  any  person. 

Sec.  20.  A  plurality  of  the  votes  given  at  any  election  shaU  constitute  a 
choice,  where  not  otherwise  directed  in  this  constitution. 

Sec  21.  All  laws,  decrees,  regulations,  and  provisions,  which  from  their 
nature  require  pubHcation,  shall  be  published  in  EngHsh  and  Spanish. 

ARTICLE  XII. 

BOUNDARY. 

The  boundary  of  the  State  of  California  shall  be  as  follows  : — - 
Commencing  at  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  42d  degree  of  north  latitude 
with  the  120th  degree  of  longitude  west  from  Greenwich,  and  running  south 
on  the  Hne  of  said  120th  degree  of  west  longitude  until  it  intersects  the  39th 
degree  of  north  latitude ;  thence  running  in  a  straight  line  in  a  southeasterly 
direction  to  the  river  Colorado,  at  a  point  where  it  intersects  the  35th  degree  of 
north  latitude ;  thence  down  the  middle  of  the  channel  of  said  river,  to  the 
boundary  line  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico,  as  established  by  the 
treaty  of  May  30th,  1848 ;  thence  running  west  and  along  said  boundary  line 
to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  extending  therein  three  English  miles ;  thence  run- 
ning in  a  northwesterly  direction,  and  following  the  direction  of  the  Pacific 
coast  to  the  42d  degree  of  north  latitude ;  thence  on  the  line  of  said  42d  de- 
gree of  north  latitude  to  the  place  of  beginning.  Also  all  the  islands,  harbors 
and  bays,  along  and  adjacent  to  the  Pacific  coast. 


222  COXSTITUTIOX   OF   THE   STATE   OF   CALIFOEXIA. 

SCHEDULE. 

Sec.  1.  All  rights,  prosecutions,  claims  and  contracts,  as  well  of  individuals 
as  of  bodies  corporate,  and  all  laws  in  force  at  the  time  of  the  adoption  of  this 
constitution,  and  not  inconsistent  therewith,  until  altered  or  repealed  by  the 
Legislature,  shall  continue  as  if  the  same  had  not  been  adopted. 

Sec  2.  The  Legislature  shall  provide  for  the  removal  of  all  causes  which 
may  be  pending  when  this  constitution  goes  into  effect,  to  courts  created  by 
the  same. 

Sec  3.  In  order  that  no  inconvenience  may  result  to  the  public  service, 
from  the  taking  effect  of  this  constitution,  no  ofl&ce  shall  be  superseded  there- 
by, nor  the  laws  relative  to  the  duties  of  the  several  offices  be  changed,  until 
the  entering  into  office  of  the  new  officers  to  be  appointed  under  this  constitution. 

Sec.  4.  The  provisions  of  tliis  constitution  concerning  the  term  of  residence 
necessaryg;o  enable  persons  to  hold  certain  offices  therein  mentioned,  shall 
not  be  held  to  apply  to  officers  chosen  by  the  people  at  the  first  election,  or 
by  the  Legislature  at  its  first  session. 

Sec  5.  Every  citizen  of  California,  declared  a  legal  voter  by  this  constitu- 
tion, and  every  citizen  of  the  United  States,  a  resident  of  this  State  on  the 
day  of  election,  shall  be  entitled  to  vote  at  the  first  general  election  under 
this  constitution,  and  on  the  question  of  the  adoption  thereof 

Sec  6.  This  constitution  shall  be  submitted  to  the  people,  for  their  ratifica- 
tion or  rejection,  at  the  general  election  to  be  held  on  Tuesday,  the  thirteenth 
day  of  November  next.  The  executive  of  the  existing  government  of  Cah- 
fornia  is  hereby  requested  to  issue  a  proclamation  to  the  people,  directing  the 
Prefects  of  the  several  districts,  or  in  case  of  vacancy,  the  Sub-Prefects,  or 
senior  Judge  of  Pirst  Instance,  to  cause  such  election  to  be  held,  on  the  day 
aforesaid,  in  their  respective  districts.  The  election  shall  be  conducted  in  the 
manner  which  was  prescribed  for  the  election  of  delegates  to  this  convention, 
except  that  the  Prefect,  Sub-Prefect,  or  senior  Judge  of  First  Instance  order- 
ing such  election  in  each  district,  shall  have  power  to  designate  any  additional 
number  of  places  for  opening  the  polls,  and  that,  in  every  place  of  holding  the 
election,  a  regular  poll-fist  shall  be  kept  by  the  judges  and  inspectors  of  election. 
It  shall  also  be  the  duty  of  these  judges  and  inspectors  of  election,  on  the  day 
aforesaid,  to  receive  the  votes  of  the  electors  quahfied  to  "Ote  at  such  election. 
Each  voter  shall  express  his  opini^i,  by  depositing  in  the  ballot-box  a  ticket, 
whereon  shall  be  written,  or  printed,  '•  For  the  Constitution,"  or  "  Against  the 
Constitution,''  or  some  such  words  as  will  distinctly  convey  the  intention  of 
the  voter.  These  Judges  and  Inspectors  shall  also  receive  the  votes  for  the 
several  officers  to  be  voted  for  at  the  said  election,  as  herein  provided.  At 
the  close  of  the  election,  the  judges  and  inspectors  shall  carefully  count  each 
ballot,  and  forthwith  make  duplicate  returns  thereof  to  the  Prefect,  Sub-Pre- 
fect, or  senior  Judge  of  First  Instance,  as  the  case  may  be,  of  their  respective 
districts ;  and  said  Prefect,  Sub-Prefect,  or  senior  Judge  of  First  Instance,  shall 
transmit  one  of  the  same,  by  the  most  safe  and  rapid  conveyance,  to  the  Secre- 
tary of  State.  Upon  the  receipt  of  said  returns,  or  on  the  tenth  day  of  December 
next,  if  the  returns  be  not  sooner  received,  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  a  board  of 
canvassers,  to  consist  of  the  Secretary  of  State,  one  of  the  Judges  of  the  Su- 


CONSTITUTION  OF  THE  STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA.  223 

perior  Court,  the  Prefect,  Judge  of  First  Instance,  and  an  Alcalde  of  the  Dis- 
trict of  Monterey,  or  any  three  of  the  aforementioned  officers,  in  the  presence 
of  all  who  shall  choose  to  attend,  to  compare  the  votes  given  at  said  election, 
and  to  immediately  publish  an  abstract  of  the  same  in  one  or  more  of  the  nevrs- 
papers  of  California.  And  the  Executive  will  also,  immediately  after  asc^- 
taining  that  the  constitution  has  been  ratified  by  the  people,  make  proclama- 
tion of  the  fact;  and  thenceforth  this  constitution  shall  be  ordained  and 
established  as  the  constitution  of  California. 

Sec.  7.  If  this  constitution  shall  be  ratified  by  the  people  of  California,  the 
Executive  of  the  existing  government  is  hereby  requested,  immediately  after 
the  same  shall  be  ascertained,  in  the  manner  herein  directed,  to  cause  a  fair 
copy  thereof  to  be  forwarded  to  the  President  of  the  United  States,  in  order 
that  he  may  lay  it  before  the  Congress  of  the  United  States. 

Sec  8.  At  the  general  election  aforesaid,  viz. :  the  thirteenth  day  of  No- 
vember next,  there  shall  be  elected  a  Governor,  Lieutenant  Governor,  members 
of  the  Legislature,  and  also  two  members  of  Congress. 

Sec  9.  If  this  constitution  shall  be  ratified  by  the  people  of  California,  the 
legislature  shall  assemble  at  the  seat  of  government,  on  the  fifteenth  day  of 
December  next,  and  in  order  to  complete  the  organization  of  that  body,  the 
Senate  shall  elect  a  President  pro  tempore^  until  the  Lieutenant  Governor 
shall  be  installed  into  office. 

Sec.  10.  On  the  organization  of  the  legislature,  it  shall  be  the  duty  of  the 
Secretary  of  State,  to  lay  before  each  house  a  copy  of  the  abstract  made  by 
the  board  of  canvassers,  and,  if  called  for,  the  original  returns  of  election,  in 
order  that  each  house  may  judge  of  the  correctness  of  the  report  of  said  board 
of  canvassers. 

Sec  11.  The  legislature,  at  its  first  session,  shall  elect  such  officers  as  may 
be  ordered  by  this  constitution,  to  be  elected  by  that  body,  and  within  four 
days  after  its  organization,  proceed  to  elect  two  Senators  to  the  Congress  of 
the  United  States.  But  no  law  passed  by  this  legislature  shall  take  effect 
until  signed  by  the  Governor,  after  his  installation  into  office. 

Sec  12.  The  Senators  and  Representatives  to  the  Congress  of  the  United 
States,  elected  by  the  legislature  and  people  of  California,  as  herein  directed, 
shall  be  furnished  with  certified  copies  of  this  constitution,  when  ratified, 
which  they  shall  lay  before  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  requesting,  in 
the  name  of  the  people  of  California,  the  admission  of  the  State  of  California 
into  the  American  Union. 

Sec  13.  All  officers  of  this  State,  other  than  members  of  the  legislature, 
shall  be  installed  into  office  on  the  fifteenth  day  of  December  next,  or  as  soon 
thereafter  as  practicable. 

Sec  14.  Until  the  legislature  shall  divide  the  State  into  counties,  and  sena- 
torial and  assembly  districts,  as  directed  by  this  constitution,  the  following 
shall  be  the  apportionment  of  the  two  houses  of  the  legislature,  viz. :  the  dis- 
tricts of  San  Diego  and  Los  Angelos  shall  jointly  elect  two  senators;  the 
districts  of  Santa  Barbara  and  San  Luis  Obispo  shall  jointly  elect  one  sena- 
tor ;  the  district  of  Monterey,  one  senator ;  the  district  of  San  Jose,  one  senator; 


224 


CONSTITUTIOX   01^  THE   STATE   OF  CALIFORNIA. 


the  district  of  San  Francisco,  two  senators ;  the  district  of  Sonoma,  one  sena- 
tor; the  district  of  Sacramento,  four  senators;  and  the  district  of  San  Joaquin, 
four  senators : — And  the  district  of  San  Diego  shall  elect  one  member  of 
assembly ;  the  district  of  Los  Angelos,  two  members  of  assembly ;  the  district 
of  Santa  Barbara,  two  members  of  assembly;  the  district  of  San  Luis 
Obispo,  one  member  of  assembly ;  the  district  of  Monterey,  two  members 
of  assembly ;  the  district  of  San  Jose,  three  members  of  assembly ;  the 
district  of  San  Francisco,  five  members  of  assembly ;  the  district  of  Sonoma, 
two  members  of  assembly ;  the  district  of  Sacramento,  nine  members  of  as- 
sembly ;  and  the  district  of  San  Joaquin,  nine  members  of  assembly. 

Sec.  15.  Until  the  legislature  shall  otherwise  direct,  in  accordance  with 
the  provisions  of  this  constitution,  the  salary  of  the  Governor  shall  be  ten 
thousand  dollars  per  annum ;  and  the  salary  of  the  Lieutenant  Governor  shall 
double  the  pay  of  a  state  senator ;  and  the  pay  of  members  of  the  legislature 
shall  be  sixteen  dollars  per  diem,  while  in  attendance,  and  sixteen  dollars  for 
every  twenty  miles  travel  by  the  usual  route  from  their  residences,  to  the  place 
of  holding  the  session  of  the  legislature,  and  in  returning  therefrom.  And  the 
legislature  shall  fix  the  the  salaries  of  all  ofi&cers,  other  than  those  elected  by 
the  people,  at  the  first  election. 

Sec.  16.  The  limitation  of  the  powers  of  the  legislature,  contained  in  article 
8th  of  this  constitution,  shall  not  extend  to  the  first  legislature  elected  under 
the  same,  which  is  hereby  authorized  to  negotiate  for  such  amount  as  may 
be  necessary  to  pay  the  expenses  of  the  State  Government. 

E.  SEMPLE, 
President  of  the  Convention, 


Wm.  G.  ]Maecy,  Secretary. 


and  Delegate  from  Benicia. 


J.  Aram, 

C.  T.  BOTTS, 

E.  Brown, 
J.  A.  Carillo, 

J.  M.  COVARRUBIAS, 

E.  0.  Crosby, 
P.  D.  La  Guerra, 
L.  Dent, 

M.  DOMINGUEZ, 
K  H.  DiMMICK, 

A;  J.  Ellis, 
S.  C.  Foster, 
E.  Gilbert, 
W.  M.  GwiNN, 
H.  W.  Halleck, 
JuLLi^  Hanks, 


L.  W.  Hastings, 
Henry  Hill, 

J.  HOBSON, 

J.  McH.  Hollingsworth, 

J,  D.  HoppE, 

J.  M.  Jones, 

T.  0.  Larkin, 

Francis  L.  Lippitt, 

B.  S.  Lippincott, 

M.  M.  McCarver, 

John  McDougal, 

B.  F.  Moore, 

Myron  Norton, 

P.  Ord, 

Miguel  Pedrorena, 

A.  M.  Pico, 


R.  M.  Price, 
Hugo  Reid, 
Jacinto  Rodriguzz, 
Pedro  Sansevaine, 
W.  E.  Shannon, 
"W.  S.  Sherwood, 
J.  R.  Snyder, 
A.  Stearns, 
W.  M.  Steuart, 
J.  A.  Sutter, 
Henry  A.  Tefft. 
S.  L.  Vepj^iule, 
M.  G.  Vallejo, 
J.  Walker, 

0.  M.  WOZENCRATT. 


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